Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Temecula Valley Wines Win Big in SF Competition

by Don McAuliffe

Wines from the Temecula Valley walked off with 12 medals at the first wine competition of the year. Held during the second week of January at the Cloverdale Citrus Fair, the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition 2008 featured wines from nearly every major wine-producing region in the United States.

Among more than 4,200 wines from 1,500 wineries, Stuart Cellars 2006 Syrah ($35) won double gold and best of class in its price category. Falkner Winery’s 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($16.95) also won a double gold and best of class in its price class.

Ray Falkner of Falkner Winery - Photo Courtesy of Valley Business Journal

Maurice Car’rie’s 2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($12.95) received a gold, a reflection of the region’s emphasis on quality wines. “The Temecula Valley region is proud to have won some of the more prestigious awards at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition,” said Ray Falkner, winery owner and president of the Temecula Valley Winegrowers Association, which represents more than 60 growers and vintners. “To have two of our wines win Best in Class reflects that the quality of wine produced in Temecula is every bit as good as that of any of the wine regions to the North.”

Also receiving medals were Falkner Winery’s 2006 Viognier ($21.95), 2004 Amante ($24.95) 2004 Meritage ($29.95), 2004 Syrah ($24.95) and 2004 Merlot ($21.95); Stuart Cellars 2005 Tatria ($38) and 2005 Long Valley Red Meritage ($65); La Cereza Winery’s 2006 ($24.95) Viognier and Girlfriends ($16.95) white blend; and VR Winery’s 2006 Gewurztraminer ($14.95)

Monday, February 25, 2008

Taste Test Results in for Temecula Wines

by Frank Mangio

Southern California’s wine country is Temecula, with its growing vineyard and winery population, producing more wines in quantities that enable these wineries to emphasize quality.

The challenge for this growing appellation is to be recognized as a premium wine country by the trade and the major media. To this end, the Temecula Valley Winegrowers Association, whose job it is to market the region, enlisted a panel to blind-taste a number of locally produced wines that they considered good enough to be 80 points or higher. This is the 100 point media rating scale for Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator, the largest circulated wine rating publications in the world.

I was asked to independently taste test the finalist wines. From the 15 wines submitted to my office, I have made my recommendations, narrowing them down to seven, without ranking them individually. All the wines can be obtained at their respective wineries.

I favor the Rhone and Tuscan style of grape for Temecula Wine Country. In my judgment, that is where it will capture its greatest success, and this is reflected in my choices. All, I believe, could be 85 or more points in any major publication ranking. They are, by alphabetical order:

·Falkner 2004 Amante Super Tuscan Blend
·Falkner 2006 Viognier
·La Cereza 2006 Viognier
·Palumbo Family 2005 Estate Sangiovese
·South Coast 2005 Wild Horse Peak Sangiovese
·South Coast 2005 Wild Horse Peak Syrah
·Thornton 2005 Syrah

I would venture that in future screenings there will be many more wines that can and should make an 80 plus ranking from Temecula. See for yourself how this region is growing by visiting or accessing their website at www.temeculawines.org.

Creative Juices Flow in Blending

by Frank Mangio

Ever wonder why some wines have sexy and exotic names on their labels?

Like perfumes that feature blended scents, wineries choose to blend a combination of ingredients to arrive at a subtle, singular taste that is theirs alone. Names like Opus One and Insignia in Napa, Isosceles and Rhapsody in Paso Robles; and closer to San Diego, Amante and Inspiration.

Blending is not a new thing. It is the combining of two or more wines with the goal of enhancing the flavor and complexity of the wine. Virtually all wines from Bordeaux and Champagne France are blends, as are wines from the south Rhone Valley. Italy started making blends contrary to the Italian government’s strict standards, starting in the early 70’s when Antinori broke tradition with its blended Tignanello. Today, Tignanello is the number one wine in Italy according to the latest rankings by Wine Spectator. It is made from 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cab Franc.


Photo: Rhone Blending Workshop Student at Temecula's Thornton Winery.

A few weeks ago, I attended a fascinating “Rhone Blending Workshop” at Thornton Winery in Temecula, taught by winemaker Don Reha. The fundamentals of blending were summarized, then each participant was given a portion of estate and another vineyard of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache from two vintages and Viognier; plus the tools for a successful blending of these wines. The students, were told to carefully taste all the wines, then to mix them into a selected blend, recording the percentages within Reha’s guidance. At times it appeared to be a splashy chemistry lab, as the guests tried and adjusted the portions for what seemed like hours. Reha then went over all the submitted blends and offered comments on each. It was a brilliantly conceived event.

Nothing like getting a hands-on experience to begin to understand what wine makers go through to create an exclusive blend; one that will please the wine-consuming public.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Wine Girl Says...


...According to some legends, Seraphiel is an angel out of the book of Enoch who has a face of an angel and the body of an eagle. Wikipedia says that Seraphiel is "as tall as the seven heavens" and is "beautiful like lightning and the light of the morning star". The book Archangels & Ascended Masters describes Seraphiel as one who seeks God and a powerful leader who oversees protection of the world from fearful and lower energies. It says that if you're fearful about world events, this angel will bring comfort, protection and intervention. Also, it's reported that Seraphiel will help in our personal lives with love relationships, friends, careers, lost items and our life purpose. This angel has a lot on its plate, or wine bottle, as was the case with me when I purchased a bottle of Serafiel (Spanish spelling) wine from the Guadalupe Valley's Adobe Guadalupe Winery (www.adobeguadalupe.com) in Mexico.

Hugo D'Acosta, a sort of Robert Mondavi of the Guadalupe Valley, makes the 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Syrah blend wine. The wine caught my attention the first time I tried it. But I needed to sample some more to make sure it was what I wanted to purchase. You see, all of their wines were notable, but this one seemed to be calling out to me the most. It probably didn't hurt that the wine consisted of two of my favorite wine varieties, but the coincidence was not lost on me when Josh, our young, friendly tour guide gave us a tour of the only room that was available for the night-the room named Serafiel.

The Adobe Guadalupe winery was the last stop on a day long wine tasting trip that six of us went on. They give wine tasting and tours to visitors but you must make reservations. It's definitely worth taking the time to book an appointment.

It was just beginning to rain when we arrived at Adobe Guadalupe and Josh greeted us with a warm smile as we headed down the brick-lined corridors toward the tasting room. The open land looking out toward the mountains was breathtaking and I think all six of us kept relatively quiet as we took in the view. Angel icons seemed to be all around the building. Even an old water tank had been given metal wings. The tasting room had huge ceilings with bright colored artwork on it along with a massive low-lying metal chandelier. There was a view of the wine barrels to the right of the tasting bar and to the left was a large expanse of land that had vibrantly green grass and grey clouds and mist that made it look magical. The tasting room felt like being in a church or library. I wanted to whisper or not talk at all-just breathe in all the beauty. They had samples of black and green olives, a trend among all the wineries we visited.

Josh was charming and cordial as we prompted him with questions about the wine and the winery. He told us that overnight guests can book horseback rides or spa appointments and the cost of the overnight stay includes breakfast. He walked us through the guest kitchen, main room and media area then pointed to where the owners live. I felt as though I were Elizabeth Bennett in Pride and Prejudice touring Mr. Darcy's private chateau. It was truly beautiful. Each of us decided to purchase a bottle of wine and so we were led into a room behind some steel wine tanks where they held the wine and then to another purchasing room lined with language books that we later found out were the owner's who speaks seven different languages and is a linguist. A group of three grey weimaraner dogs walked in and out through the rooms with us. Of the four wineries we visited that day, Adobe Guadalupe was my favorite of the large wineries. But, there was an equally enchanting winery that we happened upon that was much smaller in scale but just as delightful.

However, I started this story from the end. We actually began the day from the San Diego Normal Heights area at about 8 a.m. on a Saturday morning and drove toward the East County to enter Mexico through Tecate. Since some of us weren't U.S. citizens we had to check to make sure that we had the right papers to enter back into the U.S. Right now, for US Citizens they're recommending you bring a birth certificate along with an I.D like a driver's license.

Tecate is a cute little town that has a circular square with a park, statues and shops surrounding it. We stopped for pastries at a bakery called El Mejor, where a silver toothed police officer greeted us with a smile, and where it was hard to decide which pastries to pick. I grabbed about three pastries, a couple of cookies and a bag of fresh tortillas and ate a coconut and raspberry roll pastry that morning. From there, we headed to the first winery, L.A. Cetto (www.lacetto.net), which is one of the original wineries in the valley and when we arrived a huge group of people were purchasing wine. We found out that the group was traveling on a cruise and buying quite a bit a wine. We had to be choosy about what wine we bought as we were only allowed to bring back one liter of wine through the border. You have a much larger limit if you're traveling on a cruise. So, most of us bought olive oil and big jugs of green olives from L.A. Cetto.

From there we headed to Dona Lupe Winery, known as the organic winery. I decided not to try the wine there as I had sampled quite a bit at L.A. Cetto. The winery had quite a variety of items like mandarin, apple and mint jams, dried herbs and honey. Then, we decided to try to find the winery Mogor-Badan and drove up a winding driveway toward a hill where about five dogs, large and small, barked and ran along with our cars. At the top was a small home with a pink climbing rose around the door and across from that a hard-to-resist stone wine cellar. No one was around so some of us walked through the cellar to see if anyone was inside. Another couple of us rang the doorbell of the home and a lady in her late 50's greeted us with a smile and asked how many would be tasting wine. There were five of us tasting as one was the designated driver, so she brought out a tray that looked like something I used when I was waiting tables. It was lined with a white cloth and five wine tasting glasses.

Inside the cellar it was cool and slightly bare. On one wall was a gorgeous artistic work of tile that I wanted to purchase. We found that our server and her two partners make tile on consignment. As we sampled the wine, I imagined myself retiring at her age amid this land making artwork and letting my hair grow out. I'd grow grapes and vegetables and spend my day making bread by hand, wine making, cultivating the land and painting and writing. She seemed so content as she asked us to sample some of her that-day roasted sunflower seeds. I think this is where we all sort of got into a Zen-type mode. Drinking in the aroma of wine, smiling at our server and being among friends made my heart open wide. I wanted to hug everyone in the group. Once we were sated and found out the winery we had discovered was the Tres Mujeres Winery (meaning three women) we slowly walked back to our car and hurried to get to our Adode Guadalupe appointment.

On our way home from Enseneda a large Jesus statue with open arms embraced us along the highway. A few miles ahead a red compact car's tire flew off their car and our carpooling crowd decided to stop and help. We stayed for two hours not sure we were helping carjackers who had a California license plate with a 2004 registration and occupants that didn't speak a word of English (another story all together) or if we were being good Samaritans. I suspect, possibly, some of that angel dust from Adobe Guadalupe was still lingering on all of us and so we thought it was the right thing to do. Thanks Seraphiel, wherever you are.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Lavish Praise for Addison’s Star Sommelier


Above Photo: Jesse Rodriguez
Review by Frank Mangio

I kept seeing his name alongside many superlatives in a number of wine publications: Wine Spectator, Food & Wine Magazine, Wine & Spirits Magazine and Esquire. He was crossing my radar in a big way and I had to meet him.

Jesse Rodriguez could be a national politician in the best sense of the word.
He’s a non-stop advocate for his restaurants at the Grand Del Mar, San Diego’s newest luxury hotel, and for his wines, all 21,000 on the property.

Addison is the trophy restaurant of fine cuisine where Jesse can be seen and heard a good deal of the time, educating guests on his wines and the top-shelf menu. The cuisine is the creation of William Bradley, formerly of Loews in Coronado and the Phoenician in Scottsdale.

Addison’s décor is “Renaissance Mediterranean” and was designed by Addison Mizner, a brilliant architectural artist who made a name for himself in the luxury landmarks of South Florida. The decorative arts of Spain, Portugal, Venice and Morocco are all richly in evidence in all focal points of the Grand Del Mar.

The main 2,500 bottle wine room, adjacent to Addison’s dining room, is appointed with Jerusalem limestone, trimmed with carved Italian stone. Guests can view this room through triple arch windows. A fine wine experience for all palates is assured with a worldwide collection of top vintage varietals.

Jesse personally selected the following wines to compliment my four course dinner: first course of Forest Mushroom Velloute was washed down with La Scarpetta, Vino de Tavola Bianco, 2006 from Friuli, Italy. The second course, the Foie Gras De Canard ( lentil, port wine sauce, with bacon mousse) called for Elk Cove Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley Oregon, 2006. Course number three, Wild Scottish Salmon, with roasted eggplant and toasted pine nuts was presented with Cos D’Estrournel, Deuxiemes Cru, France 1996. Final main course was a Filet of Natural Beef with smoked potato puree. The wine was a Marchesi Antinori “Ornellaia” from Bolgheri, 1998. To all this magnificence, Jesse adds a friendly smile with heartfelt passion. Who could ask for anything more from this world-class sommelier at the lovely Addison, Grand Resort, Del Mar. Find out more at www.addisondelmar.com.

Paso Robles Comes Calling in San Diego

There is plenty to like about Paso Robles, California’s fastest growing wine region. Located on both sides of Highway 101, North of San Luis Obispo, “Paso’s” 170 plus wineries are driven to the high quality results that are in most every bottle. On Wednesday the 27th of this month, be prepared to become a disciple when over 40 of the best-of- the- best, offer tastings from some 150 different wines, at the popular San Diego Wine and Culinary Center on Harbor Drive in San Diego, across from the convention Center.

After the trade and media meet and greet, the public is invited to taste the wines from 6pm to 8pm for a $35. advance purchase ticket price. Check out www.pasowine.com. Heavy appetizers will be served with the wines.
You can also call 800-549-WINE.

Congratulations go out to Robert Haas of Tablas Creek Vineyard. He was honored as the 2007 Wine Person of the Year in Paso Robles for his leadership and dedication to the region.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Bordeaux ’05 Vintage Over the Top


by Frank Mangio

The world’s largest fine wine growing area, the mighty Bordeaux appellation on France’s west coast, has proven once again, it is the yardstick to measure all great wines. Its’ “Bordeaux Style” was the blueprint for a once neophyte Napa that took this blend and made it their own. Now, the Bordeaux 2005 vintage is showing up in wine departments and shops everywhere and the raves are unanimous. The prices are sure to please.

Of course you can pursue at Chateau Lafite Rothschild, one of a handful of premium, so called “first-growth” wines at hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars, but the good news here is that most ’05 Bordeaux wines are beautifully crafted and priced within reason. For the price of the Rothschild, you can pick up some 30 bottles of most others. The Bordeaux terroir claims some 12,000 vineyards in two distinct districts: the West Bank consisting of Haut-Medoc (oh meh doc) and Pessac-Leognan (pay sac lay oh nyahn); and the Right Bank with St-Emilion (san tem eel yon) and Pomerol ( pohm eh roll). Both areas grow Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as Cabernet Franc. The really great Cab blends are found on the Left Bank, with luscious aroma and taste of the earth with significant black currents, plums and spice. These wines can be very dry for the first few years with heavy tannin influences. Eventually they will show complex bouquet and soften to a velvety texture. The Right Bank wines of Pomerol and St-Emilion are different in that they mature faster, with more of a Merlot influence which makes them less tannic.

Recently, Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas hosted Aquitaine Wine Company of Bordeaux, a “negociant” ( representative) for a number of small, well-known wineries on both sides of the “banks.” Three of their vineyard clients ( shown in accompanying photo) presented their ’04 and ’05 offerings: Kirwin from the Margaux district, Canon La Gaffeliere, D’Aiguihe, Peyreau, Lussac, Vieux Maillet, Franc Mayne, Dassault and La Fleur, all from the St. Emilion district.

Jean-Christophe Calvet, President of Aquataine was excited about the excellence of the ’05 harvest and the artisan style, handcrafted wines he represents. “Our wines are especially food-friendly with this harvest. With the right bank, you have the kingdom of Merlot, growing beautifully in our clay and limestone. In all of the Bordeaux terroir, you have, like spices in food, five different varietals blended together, the others being Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec.” I asked him about the great number of small production vineyards and how they all fit in. “There are over 50 appellations in Bordeaux”, he answered. “Over 800 million gallons of wine are produced. Over 12,000 chateaus grow grapes and they average about 50 acres each. Our winemakers here are from the St Emilion area of Bordeaux, truly the most exciting of the Merlot growing areas in the world.”

Count Stephan von Neipperg, a German owner and winemaker from Chateau Peyreau and a “Grand Cru” grower whose family of winemakers dates back to the 13th century, was pouring the ’05 Peyreau and Canon La Gaffelier, two high quality “luxury” wines. “Only 5% of all these vineyards in Bordeaux are really making great wines and paying particular attention to four fundamentals of these excellent wines: the soil or terroir, the knowledge of making quality wines, the patience to understand how to make great wine and the money to invest in the number of years it takes to make great wine. You cannot make great wine and make a lot of wine. In our business, small production means a better chance for great wines.”

Sunday, February 3, 2008

Days of Wine and Roses - Valentines Day in Temecula

by Frank Mangio

Romance is alive and well in the vineyards of Temecula Wine Country as those wineries with a restaurant component are busy planning an evening to remember, not only on Thursday, February 14th, Valentines Day, but the day after, and on Saturday night the 16th.

South Coast Winery, Resort and Spa: A romantic setting in the Vineyard Rose with spectacular food pairings for their award-winning Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet and “Black Jack” Port. The “cupids” on staff will take care of your every need. $98. per person. Call in the RSVP at 951-587-9463.

Thornton Winery: Three locations to choose from with perfectly paired food and wine, with tray passed appetizers and Thornton NV Cuvee Rouge Champagne. View the menu on line at www.thorntonwine.com. $80. per person. RSVP at 951-699-0099.

Falkner Winery: A spectacular 4 course dinner in the Pinnacle Restaurant with Falkner’s best wines. Choice of beef or fish, plus port and champagne.
$95. per person. Reserve at 951-676-8231.

For Additonal Events, please email Frank Mangio

Vigilucci’s Sparks the La Jolla Wine & Dine Scene


by Frank Mangio

Daniel Brunner, the manager of the 7th Vigilucci’s restaurant in San Diego County, this one a palatial villa in La Jolla, likes to show the personal wine collection of Roberto Vigilucci. It’s in a private dining area, and contains lovely Italian collectables like Gaja, Sassicaia, aged Antinoris and Amarones.

The wine list for patrons is only a little less impressive with a lengthy collection from the most popular varietals in the world with the emphasis on Italian.
The latest triumph for Roberto is at Fay and Propsect and is described as serving “the finest steaks, fresh seafood, chops and pasta,” for lunch and dinner. A different risotto of the day distinguishes the cuisine by chef Giorgio Coverde.
Our evening’s risotto dish incorporated beef tips, tuna, scallops, shrimp and mixed vegetables, simmered in a light tomato cream sauce.

Roberto was brought up on his mother’s cooking in their Tuscan kitchen, and when his travels brought him to San Diego County, he saw a need for authentic Tuscan cuisine and opened the first Vigilucci’s in Encinitas in 1994. Today, in addition to Encinitas and La Jolla, you can find a Vigilucci’s in Oceanside, two in Carlsbad, two in Leucadia as well as Vigilucci’s Catering. But none of the others compares with the magnificence of the La Jolla location. I was struck by the authentic Murano glass, used as hanging lighting over the tables. The bar area, at once intimate yet dramatic looking in its showcase presentation, is home to a lively happy hour from 4 to 6pm with complimentary appetizers.

Daniel and the District Manager, Maurizio Carbone,( shown in accompanying photo) introduced me to a striking wine from Campania, the 2005 Terradora Aglianico. The Aglianico grape is red with the highest rating in the Campania area, a long stretch of terroir that touches Naples and the Mt. Vesuvius volcano that is still active. Almost black in color, it tasted a lovely chocolate, earthy flavor. It’s another under-the-radar Italian wine, still inexpensive for the quality of taste. For more on Vigilucci’s, access the restaurant’s website at www.vigiluccis.com.

La Cereza Shines Silver

Temecula, Calif. / Feb. 1. 2008

Wine drinkers seeking to explore new and exciting worlds in the vast cosmos called the wine industry often find themselves overwhelmed by the seemingly infinite amount of wines available to them. Add to this conundrum a whole slew of promotional schemes by labels including point systems, critics’ reviews and shelf talkers…all aimed to assuage possible buyers to purchase their bottle of wine instead of the one next to it. Is your head spinning yet?

Well, just like any other competitive market, wineries have the ability to have their products rated objectively each year during a handful of annual wine competitions. One of largest of which is the annual San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Located at the doorstep of Napa Valley, wineries that earn medals during this wine competition consider it a huge feat, a right of passage, so to speak, in the wine world.

La Cereza Vineyard and Winery, located in Temecula Valley, is now the proud bearer of that title after winning silver medals in the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition for both their Sangiovese and Tempranillo red wines.
Judged next to wines from appellations long-recognized for excellence in red wine-making like Napa, Sonoma and Central Coast, La Cereza considers these awards a great honor as well as a testimony to their desire to produce high-quality wines capable of competing with the best.

The earning of a silver medal for their Tempranillo varietal is especially exciting for the Spanish-themed winery, as this grape is considered to be the quintessential Spanish grape, used to make the world-famous Rioja red wine.
“The choice to produce this wine here denotes the foresight of our winemaker to acquire tempranillo grapes from Guadalupe Valley,“ said Buddy Linn, owner of La Cereza. “This fruit is extremely high-quality and the outcome has been a very consistent and exceptional wine.”

La Cereza’s silver medal award for their Sangiovese is also remarkable, considering it’s the first year that the winery has ever produced this unique Italian varietal.
La Cereza winemaker Gus Vizgirda said he has long been honing in on his winery’s potential to produce excellent wines from Mediterranean grapes such as Tempranillo and Sangiovese.

“We have a very unique winemaking style here in the (Temecula) Valley and particularly at La Cereza,” said Vizgirda. “It’s based on the fact that we have a terroir here that is very similar to the Mediterranean, so although we may not be producing wines like the ones you’ll find up North, we’re confident and proud that we have a style that’s totally different and the quality is just as good.”