Coastal Carlsbad’s Winery: WitchCreek

Photo: Ryan Baker (left), along with two of the WitchCreek owners

by Frank Mangio

Ok, so I’ve been not seeing and tasting what’s under my nose. After four years and 160 or so wine columns, I have never stepped into a winery in my own home town of Carlsbad. My miss. A grape-growing friend of mine who has a virtual Italian vineyard laboratory in his back yard in Carlsbad, called to alert me to the fact that WitchCreek Winery, along the shore near downtown Carlsbad had just won double gold at the latest, prestigous San Francisco Chronicle Newspaper Wine Competition for its 2005 Nebbiolo.

Pete Anderson could hardly contain his excitement, as he is a contributing consultant for WitchCreek. The Italian grapes actually come up from the Guadalupe Valley of Mexico, under the watchful eye of the L.A. Cetto vineyard and winery and their world-renowned winemaker Camillo Magoni. I have interviewed this native Piedmont Italian sage, and he is a brilliant sculpture of Nebbiolo grapes. Camillo nurtured the winning Nebbiolo to display deep fruit, chocolate and a light berry hint. The bottle retails for $35. and is only available at the Carlsbad and Ramona locations for WitchCreek.

The winery has a history that dates back to 1993, founded by the Wodehouse family. Dave Wodehouse focused on handcrafted, full-bodied wines. He still pays an active role as Executive Winemaker and enjoys digging into some fascinating Italian style grapes, along with Ryan and Pete. They had me try a little know varietal from the Campania area of Italy: their 2006 Aglianico (pronounced ah-lian-eeco).

These grapes also came up from Camillo’s vineyard and sells for $20. The Greeks first introduced this grape to the area in and around Naples and the Amalfi Coast. A very dark color sets the stage for an earthy, chocolate accent. The Aglianico grape loves heat, so it does nicely in the Guadalupe Valley.

Other recent wines at WitchCreek include a just-bottled “Kathy’s Cuvee” a blend of five grapes ( $35.), and “Fat Cat Red,”a lovely everyday red wine ($10.). Check out WitchCreek Winery in Carlsbad and Ramona at www.witchcreekwinery.com.


The Latest in Temecula Wine Country

There always something new in Southern California’s Wine Country.

Stuart Cellars also did very well at the 200 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Their ’06 Syrah won double gold and best of class! Falkner’s ’06 Sauvignon Blanc also took a double gold and best of class. Maurice Carrie’s 2007 Sauvignon Blanc won gold. Congrats to all the winners from our closest wine country.

Oak Mountain Winery is the newest member of the winery association. Located on 10 acres just off DePortola Road and owned by Valerie and Steve Andrews, they emphasize Bordeuax varietals.

Easter festivities are coming to Wine Country and Falkner Winery has an annual brunch Sunday March 23 from 11am to 4pm at the Pinnacle Restaurant. Champagne and wine will be in abundance, as well as traditional cuisine from eggs to salmon. $54.95 per person and $24.50 for kids. RSVP at 951-676-8231. Ponte has its Easter Brunch from 11am to 3pm, with an Alice in Wonderland theme. Easter Egg Hunt for the kids. $70. per person, children $30. Call 800-931-6617.

Italian Grape from Chianti Revealed in California

LEON SANTORO, the FAMED "RHONE RANGER" TASTING THE NECTAR OF ORFILA WINERY (Foto by Frank)

by Frank Mangio

Italian winemakers are a romantic lot. The language of wine, especially in Tuscany, is meandering poetry, words of love and some hyberbole.

Take Chianti, or more recently, Chianti Classico. Over the years Chianti was getting a bad name, so some of the more influential vintners coaxed the government to crack down and raise the standards. Now, Chianti can only be made in a district called Chianti Classico. It not named for the grape, which in my judgment is one of the most lovely in the world: Sangiovese. Sangiovese has relaxed elegance with a taste of the terroir, the earth from which it was raised. You will taste a lively acidity that begs for cheese, olive oil and rustic breads. I find that newly won disciples of wine that may not know wine terminology, just simply like it a lot!

Sangiovese in California is the focus of this week’s column. From north to south, unlike Italy, this grape is boldly proclaimed on the label of an increasing number of wineries and is gaining in popularity. In the north, look to Sonoma for some delicious examples as wineries like Pedroncelli grow it in Dry Creek Valley near Geyserville. Their ’05 is just out and is pleasing to the palate. The Seghesio family, back in the late 1800’s, was bottling a Chianti containing a blend of Sangiovese, considered America’s oldest Sangiovese planting. On the Central Coast, a small winery, Javardi in Paso Robles has an ’04 Sangiovese that is tasting beautifully.

I am most excited about what I see and taste in Southern California, namely Temecula’s wineries like Palumbo Family, La Cereza, Falkner, Briar Rose and others. In Escondido, Orfila Vineyards and Winery with Leon Santoro ( see accompanying photo) brings 13 years of Sangiovese love to the table. Leon himself comes from Tuscany. In 1995, his Sangiovese “Di Collina” (means hillside) won Gold at the San Francisco Fair. He smiled and said “we would have won double gold then but the Tuscan vineyard we received our plantings from, Fattoria Le Bocce, won with their ’93.” Each year since that first accolade, Orfila’s Sangiovese has medaled, including five double golds. See more at www.orfila.com.

Italian and Rhone Valley French style grape-growing represent the single best hope to put Southern California wineries on the map. The wave of wineries gaining success with Sangiovese is a real trend that is here to stay.

One Closed Case of 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild...
What’s it Worth?

Twelve bottles, a case of the above named wine treasures, have been sitting since 1984 in perfectly temperature controlled storage, owned by Gary Parker of WineSellar Brasserie in San Diego. This “vintage of the century” was one of the first to receive a 100 point rating. The wine, in the Bordeaux appellation, is considered a benchmark for the greatest wines ever made. This unopened case is being offered sealed and aged for some 25 years. A single bottle has been priced at an average $2,000.

The public has a unique opportunity to participate in an on-line auction for this case of wine. Between now and midnight March 20, Parker will be taking offers for this rare case. “I urge you to make your best offer right away…I will certainly envy the fortunate person who will ultimately possess one of the most amazing cases of wine on the planet” he said. You can send your offers or any questions you may have to Parker at GParker@WineSellar.com. His phone is 858-450-9557.

Coppola Names Latest Winery Rosso & Bianco

by Frank Mangio

After over a year of silence on what he would call his newest acquisition in Geyserville, Sonoma, Francis Ford Coppola of “Godfather” fame finally broke his silence. He purchased his second winery (the first one is in Napa), formerly Chateau Souverain, and let it sit while he thought about it.

The new winery is now Rosso & Bianco. His grandfather from his Italian family back in New York used to make “Rosso y Bianco,” which means simply red and white wine. Coppola wanted to pay honor to his Italian ancestry, so he describes his latest winery as one that will “provide the theme of life with a happy Italian family, where I have provided my private collection of film and personal memorabilia for public enjoyment.” An Italian Pizzeria has been open, with beautiful views of the Alexander Valley, where diners can savor rustic dishes including Neapolitan style pizzas. Visit the website at www.rossobianco.com.

Coppola himself has named his recent favorite wines and none are from Napa or Sonoma. They are: a white from Romania, Feteasca Alba; three wines from Argentina: a Malbec, a Cabernet and a Torrentes; and finally a Southern Italian wine, a “Negromaro, which has a fruity, rich flavor. This wine is where my people come from,” he proclaimed.

Hill Family Wines Team with Poseidon for a Good Vibe Night

Tom Ranglas of Poseidon and Ryan Hill of Hill Family Wine (Foto by Frank)

by Frank Mangio
When he finished his presentation at a recent wine dinner at the Poseidon Restaurant on the beach in Del Mar, Ryan Hill of Hill Family Estate in the Napa Valley, leaned over to me and expressed his pleasure at the “very strong vibes” in the room. “I wish more wine dinners could be this exciting” he remarked.

Ryan is the youngest of the Hill Family, a fast-rising wine making family out of Yountville, off Highway 29, in the middle of the Napa wine empire. His father Doug had vast vineyard management experience before starting his own winery.
Their tasting room is in the heart of the Yountville village’s restaurant row, in Antique Row. Hill is currently releasing eight wines, with grapes coming from some 14 vineyards.

Poseidon Restaurant is new at wine and dine events in the San Diego area, but it gets high marks for the “vibe,” the menu and its selection of wines to spotlight. Tom Ranglas runs the Poseidon (shown on the left in the accompanying photo with Ryan Hill of the winery) and under his watchful eye has produced a newly upgraded restaurant with an indoor-outdoor mood, capturing the essence of the pacific panorama that greets diners. The Hill wines that evening ranged from the ’06 Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, to the rich, lavish ’05 Syrah and the excellence of an ’04 Merlot, my favorite of the evening.

Executive chef Timothy Gutmann started with Monkfish Medallions and capped the menu with House Smoked Pork Tenderloin.

The next Poseidon wine event will be Wednesday April 2 and will feature Sonoma based Saxon Brown. The wine maker will be there to personally present his wines, along with a handpicked menu. Price is $65. per person. Call 858-755-9345 for RSVP.

Information on the Hill Family’s wines are at www.hillfamilyestate.com.