Monday, May 26, 2008

Rodney Strong and the Alexander Valley of Sonoma

I first laid eyes on the Alexander Valley of Sonoma a couple of years ago ( see accompanying photo) and when I did, I was astounded at its beauty, but more than that, it was the only place on earth that I had been to where the air was full of the perfume of grapes. It was a heady mix of cabernet sauvignon, cab franc, zinfandel and merlot.

The valley was carpeted with grapevines, ready to be picked and treated like royalty by the brilliant winemakers of Sonoma. The soil is well-drained and volcanic in color, ideal growing conditions for a Bordeaux style varietal.

Into this garden, the winemaker of Rodney Strong Vineyards, Rick Sayre, carefully chooses his crop and hand- harvests only the best for his premium blend: Symmetry Meritage from the Alexander Valley. The current release is the 2004, where it was recently showcased at the Prado Restaurant in Balboa Park, San Diego. He also previewed the ’05 which was equally impressive. The ‘04 sells for $55. on the winery’s website. Rick was present and revealed that Rodney Strong next year would be celebrating its 50th anniversary in Sonoma. Rick himself will also be celebrating his 30th anniversary at the vineyard, next year. Rick is the consummate farmer. He brings grapes to their highest form of perfection and his signature triumph is the Symmetry blend, which can slightly change in ratio from year to year, depending on his expertise in judging which of his cab, merlot and cab franc grapes are best for a particular vintage. The layers of opulent blackberries, dark plum and sweet spices seem always to distinguish Symmetry no matter the year.

The Alexander Valley has helped produce world-class wines for Rodney Strong. Yet the winery sources from 12 estate owned vineyards from four appellations within Sonoma: in addition to the Alexander Valley, others include Chalk Hill, Russian River Valley, and Sonoma Coast.

Other wines paired with the wine dinner at the Prado included a divine 2006 Pinot Noir, a 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, an exceptional 2006 Chardonnay, and a 2004 Port.

The vineyard headquarters in Sonoma is open for tours daily at 11am and 3pm. Tasting room hours are daily 10am to 5pm. For more, see their website: www.rodneystrong.com.

by Frank Mangio

Thursday, May 15, 2008

In the Beginning: The Robert Renzoni Story


by Frank Mangio

Picture if you would, gentle sloping hills with signature Sangiovese grapes providing a tapestry for a stone villa with a commanding view of the countryside.


In the barrel room, names like Sangiovese, Bellisimo, Moscato and Pinot Grigio tempt the visitor with a handsome parchment-like label with the proprietor’s name: Robert Renzoni. Are we in Tuscany or possibly north of Milan?

In Temecula, Robert Renzoni with his father Fred recently unveiled a Vineyard and Winery that footprints those lovely wineries that dot the Italian landscape. The Renzoni family involvement with wine goes back to 1886. Robert is 4th generation with a keen knowledge of the importance of family and historical tradition. It is this soul of Italian winemaking that supports Robert Renzoni Vineyards and will carry it to stardom in Temecula Wine Country.

Robert is no stranger to wine country. “I was with Leonesse Cellars as their sales manager and saw an opportunity to bring a new kind of winery to Temecula” he said. We are bringing a touch of Italy to Temecula. Our Sangiovese is old world style: a light to medium bodied table wine with plenty of flavor. Our focal point will be a Tuscan style two story villa which should be constructed next year, that will house a landmark 50 foot bell tower with a bell that’s’ been handed down through the family. The second story will be a VIP style tasting room with an outdoor deck for gatherings.”

In the meantime, a comfortable tasting room has been put together in the barrel room that is open daily 11am to 6pm at the vineyard which is on De Portola Rd. between Keyways and Leonesse Wineries. There, visitors can taste and purchase 6 wines: a 2007 Pinot Grigio, a 2007 La Rosa with a lovely strawberry summer taste, a 2007 Bellisimo, a 2007 Moscato, a 2006 Sangiovese, aged 17 months in American Oak and a 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel with brilliant aromas of ripe blueberry and blackberry. Robert pointed out that “we will have a Cabernet and a Chardonnay soon, and we have just planted Brunello Sangiovese clones on the property. Our wine club is up and running and is offering 25% off on all wines.”

I fell in love with the ’07 Bellissimo, a refreshing white that reminded me of a smooth Sauvignon Blanc, and the ’06 Sangiovese with grapes sourced from Paso Robles. In my enthusiasm for this infant Vineyard and winery, I tripped and addressed Robert as Mondavi. Correcting myself, it occurred to me that maybe, just maybe, Robert Renzoni may one day be the Robert Mondavi of Temecula Wine Country. The wine is that good! Call 951-302-VINO or access information at www.robertrenzonivineyards.com.


More From Temecula

Cougar Vineyard and Winery is another of Temecula’s newest wineries with the first husband and wife winemaking team: Rick and Jennifer Buffington. They own about 10 acres and also believe the Italian style wines are what is best grown in this area. They are also on DePortola Rd where last year they were medaled with their Chardonnay, estate Sangiovese, Muscat Canelli and Riesling. Cougar is also planting Montepulciano, Aglianico, Vermentino and Primitivo grapes. Look them up at www.cougarvineyards.com.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

MELLOW: a wine bar…is all that and more

By Frank Mangio

You don’t’ have to be big to make a splash in the San Diego wine scene.

It really works when you’re MELLOW. When five o’clock rolls around, more than a few young professionals are mixing it up and comparing vintages at the recently opened MELLOW a wine bar, at Liberty Station in the Rosecrans district.

Phil Cutting and his special events director, Nikole Atterholm ( both shown in the accompanying photo) have set the wine and dine table with a cozy kind of “Cheers” atmosphere, where the bartenders and patrons seem to be equally able to make friends and keep them. The menu is bistro Mediterranean style with light, rustic cuisine…nothing pretentious and definitely wine-friendly.

Wine selections fall into the little-known, low production style. Phil prides himself on finding and presenting wines that customers won’t see everywhere.

On the day we stopped by, he was pouring a Filus ’05 Malbec from Argentina, in the Mendoza district. All his wines can be purchased on the retail side, but an opportunity always exists to “try before you buy” on the bar side. Too many wine bars in town are small and tucked away, almost hidden by retail. Not this one. MELLOW is all bar. Phil, it turns out, took courses at San Diego State’s comprehensive Business of Wine, and was in my lecture classes on Old World Wines. Nice success story for Wendy Evers of SDSU who founded and guided the course to where it is now…turning out students like Phil who go on to great things in the industry.

Hours at MELLOW are Monday through Saturday 11am to 11pm and Sunday 4pm to 11pm. Check out the web site for a constant stream of events, at www.mellowawinebar.com.

Washington 2nd to California in Wine Production

If you are seeking a wine “getaway” far from the traffic crush, consider the State of Washington with its more than 500 wineries. Washington wine country can be deceiving. Most of the wineries are clustered near Seattle, with its wet, damp and cool climate. But nearly all of the vineyards are in the dry, warm eastern part of the state, separated from Seattle by the Cascade mountain range. Areas like the Columbia Valley, Walla Walla, Red Mountain and Yakima produce winning Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot, Lemberger and Syrah.

Are the wines wonderful? Consider this: I attended a wine auction recently at the Museum of Photogaphic Arts in San Diego’s Balboa Park and recognized the lovely and often applauded Quilceda Creek, one of Washington’s finest. It was presented as a 100 point three-pack vertical (3 different vintages: ’02, ’03 and ’04) Cabernet Sauvignon. I kept bidding and gave up after the price zoomed to over $600.

Chateau San Michelle, founded in 1934 and based in Woodinville near Seattle, is the most known of the wineries. Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet are its most popular varietals. Their just-released White Riesling Columbia Valley ’06 just received a 97 point rating in Wine Spectator.

There is a lot of excitement at DiStefano Winery, also in Woodinville, as it claimed the title of Washington Winery of the Year, according to the Wine Press Northwest in its latest competition. Owner Mark Newton and winemaker Hillary Sjolund have come up with a luscious, spicy Syrah. Their 2003 version is from the Columbia Valley and is lovely to look at and beautifully knit to the taste. It’s actually a brilliantly conceived blend of 94% Syrah, 4% Viognier and 2% Cabernet. There is no better wine from Washington. Retail is $24.99.

The full story at www.distefanowinery.com.

Check out the latest website for Washington wines: www.washingtonwine.org.