The Fullest Expression of Sicilian Wines

Article and Photo by Frank Mangio

If you read this column and others in your search for the next “big thing” in wines, you have to conclude that Sicily is about to burst on the world stage with its big bold Nero D’avola based wines.

Every Mediterranean power since civilization began has had control of Sicily and it has only been recently that Italy made it part of their government. Sicilian people are hardy, independent and with a strong sense of place in all that they do, including winemaking. And that’s what makes Sicilian wines so special. Italy is first in the world in wine production and Sicily is its most productive region. The holy trinity of wine, bread and olive oil is enriched in Sicily.

Out of this legacy, the Maggiore family set its course in America with fine Italian restaurants, the best ingredients possible, and now, a family of fine wines from Sicily. Tomaso Maggiore, after establishing successful Italian food and wine experience locations in the Phoenix area, opened Tuscany in Carlsbad some 15 years ago and never looked back in developing quality, reasonably priced restaurants for he and his family. Yet he yearned for his own wine.

On one of his many trips to Sicily, he met by chance Giovanni Maggio, who shared the same dream. In 1994 in Agrigento Sicily, a vineyard of 150 acres was born featuring wines with the bold, natural flavors of the land, and a complexity that ensured its success. Maggiore’s Luxus 5 Meritage is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Nero D’avola, 13% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 7% Syrah.

The Maggiore family includes: Cristina, Joey, Melissa and Tomaso, shown celebrating Melissa’s new venture: MZ Wines

It was my favorite at a recent Tuscany wine tasting. The Maggiores are particularly excited about their wines since daughter Melissa Maggiore has launched MZ Wines, a distributor of fine Italian wines, with Luxus 5 Meritage as the showcase. It’s priced at an attractive suggested retail of $50. for the 2002 vintage. “My wines are world class,” Melissa declared. “The warm, dry southern coast of Agrigento Sicily produces intense, lovely expression of the vineyards’ grapes. We have a high end Chardonnay, Luxus One, that is gorgeous. Also our big bold reds are perfectly balanced: the Lusso Rosso with 70% Nero d’avola and 30% Syrah; and what we like to call the Super Sicilian, the Luxus 5 Meritage with classic Bordeaux age-abilty.” For information on these and other wines in her portfolio, call Melissa at 760-473-2862 or check out her web site at www.MZWines.com. Tuscany restaurant’s phone number is 760-929-8111.

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Fiery Concert Brings New Wine to Temecula

Photo: La Cereza Winery owner Buddy Linn with Benise, the star of the winery’s first concert which was a sellout.

Article by Frank Mangio

La Cereza Winery in Temecula is still buzzing over the bold flamenco style concert by Benise and his bigger-than-life 25 piece band and dancers on August 16th. It was Buddy and Cheri Linn’s first event of this kind and a home run it was!

The opening act by Maston Smith and his wild medieval costuming, electric cello and bizarre dancers sent the crowd into a frenzy.

All this is a prelude to a new wine, created especially for this occasion by the Linns and their eclectic winemaker Gus Vizgirda… the “Benise Private Reserve Sangiovese.” La Cereza is always ahead of the curve with some 33 different wine brands to choose from and this passionate addition adds to the excitement of this Spanish formatted winery.

This wine has a bold flavor with distinctly cherry characteristics, and a slightly pepper, smoky accent. The sangiovese grape is Italian Tuscan originally and winemaker Vizgirda never disrespects that, but the Spanish touches that go into most reds at La Cereza is clearly evident. It pairs nicely with most beef. It’s already picking up medals in several California competitions. Vintage is 2005.

In other Temecula wine news: hats off to Thornton Winery in Temecula Wine Country for hosting a rare Progressive Dinner featuring three award winning winemakers and one top chef together in one event. Kim Wascher of Hart Winery, Gus Vizgirda of La Cereza and Maurice Carrie Wineries and the host winemaker Don Reha of Thornton provided welcome wine conversation for guests, while executive chef Steve Pickell shared secrets about matching Temecula wines with his exclusive cuisine. His menu items are part of the new selections at the winery’s Café Champagne. See them at www.thorntonwine.com.

Wine & Cuisine Gala of the Season is Sat. Oct. 4
Here is a rare event not to be missed. It’s the Circle of Hope Gala to benefit New Haven Youth and Family Services of Vista, at the Tuscan style, custom built Casa di Fede, a private family estate created by Frank and Claudette Mercardante, just south of Temecula, Saturday October 4. A VIP reception begins at 5 pm with cocktails and formal dinner from 6 to 9pm.

I have the privilege of being one of the selected wine presenters, along with the brilliant winemaker Leon Santoro of Orfila Vineyards and Winery. His wines will be exclusive to this high-level luxurious event. Other rare insights will be provided by Chocolatier Michael Antonorsi and featured guest and the Food Network’s newest star, Chef Jeff Henderson.

Henderson’s is a real-life Circle of Hope journey which took him from the streets of San Diego to prison, where he discovered a passion for cooking. Upon release he pursued a career to Los Angeles, San Diego and Las Vegas. He has since published a best selling book and has a movie in the works. A formal Tuscan-inspired dinner will be prepared by Master Chef Carlo Di Gristina, with live music by the Cecilia String Quartet. Tickets for this special occasion are $500. for the cocktails and formal dinner, and $1,000. for the VIP Reception, cocktails and dinner. For a complete summary, call 760-630-4035 or access www.circleofhopegala.org.

Keyways Gets Top Awards at Long Beach Grand Cru

Temecula, CA --Keyways Vineyard & Winery continued its remarkable performance at wine competitions in 2008 by winning seven medals at the prestigious Long Beach Gran Cru, including a Best of Class and three gold medals.

Keyways 2007 Chenin Blanca ($18) won a gold medal and Best of Class at the competition. Also winning gold medals were Keyways 2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($20 and Contentment ($21) a Rhone blend made form Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne grapes.

Other medal winners included Keyways 2007 Riesling ($19), 2006 Barbera ($33), 2005 Cabernet Franc ($27) and 2006 Syrah ($35).

The Long Beach Grand Cru is considered one of the top international wine competitions in the U.S. The major public tasting event attracts more than 1,400 wine and food aficionados every year. In 2008, more than 400 wineries from a dozen countries submitted more than 1,900 entries.

The new Keyways Vineyard & Winery is only four years old, but the winery has received six coveted Double Gold and Best of Class awards at wine competitions in 2008.

Double Gold requires unanimous approval from a panel of four judges and Best of Class reflects superiority, typically in a price category.

For Keyways owner Terri Pebley, the results are evidence of the growing number of quality wines consistently coming from Keyways.

“Keyways wines are receiving this recognition in double-blind wine competitions with participants from all over the United States and the world,” she said. “Neither the judges nor the presenters know the identity of the wine they are tasting.”

Keyways winemaker Michael Tingley said the award is especially fulfilling because his wines were competing against the best of the best.

“Overall I think the level of competency in the Temecula Valley is going up,” he said. “This not only reflects the skill of the winemaker but the expertise of growers who are becoming better and better at what they do.”

For Tingley and many winemakers, award-winning wine always starts with great grapes.

“I really think the growers need to get more credit for the awards and medals,” he said. “They are the unsung heroes of Temecula’s Wine Country.”

He suggests that more wineries should produce vineyard-designated wines when possible so that the growers can share in some of the glory.

Keyways Vineyard & Winery is setting new standards in Temecula’s Wine Country. In addition to offering the first ice wine, it has created a new line of wines for women – who make 60 percent of the wine-buying decisions.

Keyways sit on about 13 acres at the confluence of the 2,000-acre Valle de los Caballos -- Valley of the Horses – and southern tier of Temecula’s Wine Country at 37338 DePortola Road. Its tasting room is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. For more information call (951) 302-7888 or go to www.KeywaysWine.com

Wine and Aging

by Frank Mangio
One of the most consistent questions I am asked is about wine and aging, including how long does the bottle have before the wine turns ugly once it’s opened; and what wines should be bottle aged and for how long.

The first question is not so difficult to answer. In most cases, once a bottle of wine is opened it is subject to bacteria and oxygen which begin to affect the flavor and deteriorate the character of the wine. There are pumps and other injections of gaseous elements that help but by 72 hours, a kind of vinegar flavor sets in and it’s all over.

The second part of the aging process is the more important and more elusive: How long should a bottle sit before it passes from optimum taste to spoiled?

Most wines will taste just fine at the date of release, or consumed a year or so after purchase. White wines, generally speaking, are not going to be enhanced by storage, so enjoy! Same is true for thinly tasting reds like Pinot Noir, Beaujolais and Rose type wines. What’s left are all those lovely red wines of sturdy body, with a high acidic structure and strong tannic characteristics that need age to smooth them out and create an enhanced flavor and a softened texture. The result is a more pleasurable drink.

Red wines that need time should be “laid down” on their sides preferably in a 55 degree temperature controlled environment like a wine cooler or “cellar.” It could be a room with shelving configured for wine bottles and not be subject to direct sunlight. As to how long, that’s where lots of debate swirls.

Remember, some wines have already barrel aged so you need to factor that in when storing. I advise a not-to-exceed time frame of ten years. So, if you purchase say an Italian Brunello that has already been aged 5 years in barrel and bottle before release, then another 5 years in your storage facility, drink up! After all, that is what wine is made for.

Buzz Builds for the San Diego Bay Food & Wine Festival

PHOTO: Joe Spellman, Master Sommelier, lectures on Petite Sirah at last year’s festival. Next to him, Warren Bogle

Wednesday November 12th through Sunday November 16th the wine and food world turns its attention to San Diego and the San Diego Bay Wine and Food Festival for “lip smacking, glass clinking, celebrity watching, swishing, swirling mouth watering kind of fun!” Just check out the stats on this one: 160 wine and spirits companies, 60 top chefs in San Diego, over 800 wines to taste, a big bottle auction, many classes and a $50,000. chef of the fest competition.

The organizers, Michelle Metter and Ken Loyst of World of Wine Events are in their fifth year of this over–the-top wine and food event. On the cooking side, it was recently announced that Gavin Kaysen, brilliant young international award winner and Executive Chef at one of New York’s finest restaurants and former chef de cuisine at Ranch Bernardo’s respected El Bizcocho, will prepare a special menu for a Friday the 14th Luncheon and Big Bottle Auction at the San Diego Marriott Hotel & Marina 11:30 to 2pm. Food and Wine authority Ted Allen of Food Detectives, Top Chef and PBS’s Uncorked, will lead a food and wine pairing class also on Friday the 14th from 3 to 4pm at Macy’s School of Cooking.

I never miss Master Sommelier Joe Spellman’s illuminating classes and this year his Blind Tasting Class should not be missed. Joe is now at the eminent Justin Winery in Paso Robles traveling the world educating and inspiring wine lovers.

Local San Diego sommeliers will join him in identifying 6 world class wines Friday the 14th from 4 to 6pm at the Wine & Culinary Center. These amazing events plus the great Friday night Reserve and New Release Tasting at the Hornblower Inspiration yacht, and the Saturday Grand Tasting at Embarcadero Park North and you get the picture: a wine and food event for the ages.

Get the complete 5 day schedule and price packages at www.worldofwineevents.com. For festival questions, call 619-342-7337.

Silver Oak Showcases Latest Cab Releases

PHOTO: Julie McCulley pours the latest vintage Silver Oak at Carlsbad Wine Merchants.

If I was to count the number of showcase Cabernet Sauvignons in the Napa/Sonoma wine making district on one hand, Silver Oak Cellars would be included. Silver Oak has wineries in Napa and Sonoma.

Oakville is home to the estate grown cabs of Napa where the current Silver Oak ’03 has been released after having been aged in American Oak for some 28 months and is a “drink now” delight, but will age gracefully, rounding out the tannins for up to a decade.

On the other side of this dynamic duo wine country is Silver Oak’s Alexander Valley Sonoma Winery near Geyserville, where the ’04 Cabs have just been released.

A little softer, darker and drawn from three estate vineyards with a blend of lovely characteristics, these wines mature in 50% new and 50% once-filled American oak barrels for up to 26 months, then settle in 15 more months of bottle
aging. Winemaker Daniel Baron made his mark in the vineyards of Bordeaux where he learned about no-compromise excellence. “In the old world, the pursuit of excellence is the driving force behind every decision made in the vineyard. That’s what I strive for as a winemaker,” he said.

It was with an exciting expectancy that I popped into the recent new release party for Silver Oak’s latest cabernet triumphs at Carlsbad Wine Merchants, where Regional Sales Manager Julie McCulley was pouring the new releases. My first taste was the Alexander Valley ’04. The entry was a velvety rush of immense fruit filling the palate with great depth of flavor. Its finish is long and elegant. Price at the date of this event was $62.99./bottle.

The ’03 Napa Valley version rewarded tasters with a distinguished yet bold flavor of concentrated fruit, with a rich chocolate accent. A fringe benefit was a brown sugar hint that I look for in an upscale cab. Price at the event was $89.99/bottle.

Bravo to Silver Oak, one of the few wineries that produce only Cabernet Sauvignon, with a devoted following that knows great value. Read more at "http://www.solveroak.com