Monday, August 24, 2009

Vigilucci’s Thrives, Expands to Coronado

Roberto Vigilucci, owner, and Daniel Brunner, manager of Vigilucci’s Coronado in the world- class wine cellar.

When you meet Roberto (“Robbie”) Vigilucci, his warm hearted passion radiates an old-world charm Italians call “e’voglio bene” ( my great desire.) His Italian style restaurants and wine selections have leaped ahead of the pack and now total 8, plus a catering business. His one-of-kind locations, first in Encinitas in 1994, to his latest handsome dining room in Coronado next to the Del Coronado Resort Hotel, reflects the Vigilucci personal touch of home style ingredients, extensive Italian favored wine list and a happy “good-times” atmosphere.

The wines offered are in such quantity that a 16 page booklet is offered, complete with a table of contents. The manager at the Coronado location, Daniel Brenner, urged us to try his most exciting Italian value wine, a creation from the Puglia region of Italy that was made from the Primitivo grape.

If that varietal is new to you, think Zinfandel. Primitivo grapes were brought to California early in its development as a wine country, and became Zinfandel. But DNA tests pointed to Italy and Croatia as the birthplace for this popular varietal. Vigilucci offers a bottle of Ognisole 2006 Primitivo for just $33. Like most Italian wines, this one is brimming with a mineral statement of the earth, with enough acidity to wrap around cheeses, breads, pastas and other rustic Italian red-sauced based meals. The wine made them taste that much better.

A wonderful Italian-style starter plate for two is the Antipasto della Casa. In it are generous portions of Calamari, Caprese, Bruschettas, Prosciutto di Parma, Salame, and several styles of imported cheeses.

Fresh baked Italian bread compliments the flavors. The main entrees are savory steaks, seafood and dinner salads, pastas, raviolis and risottos. “Robbie” believes and lives for the highest quality and he sees to it that locations open every day with that standard. An old Italian saying says that “if you want to serve the best, you put your thumb in the sauce” and taste for yourself before serving.

The next time you dine at one of Vigilucci’s 8 restaurants you can be sure that “Robbie” has been there to make sure it is the best. For a Vigilucci’s location near you, access www.vigiluccis.com.

Wine Sommeliers – Are They Still Needed?

In the years before wine education and tasting became the vogue, a wine dinner at a nicer restaurant became an intimidating adventure and diners relied on the guidance ( mostly dictates ) of the wine sommelier or director who opened a wine list of strange names from far-away places.

Where did this ritual come from in the wine world? Back in the French Renaissance, individuals bought the title and became personal assistants to a noblemen in the royal court. They stocked food and wine for journeys and kept the supplies in a carriage or “somme.” However the most important job was to taste the wine and cuisine before it was presented to the nobleman and his guests, to ensure that no poisons were in the ingredients.

Today’s fine restaurant sommeliers choose the wines, stock the cellar and work the dining room recommending wines. A master sommelier designation is very difficult to attain and it’s only been since 1987 that any American was so designated. Eddie Osterland of La Jolla was the first. He was French trained at the University of Bordeaux, France.

The instruments of a traditional sommelier are quirky little gadgets like a tastevin, a little brass basket for tasting that hung around his neck, thermometer for precise temperature measurement, sparkling wine pliers, and the list goes on.

Next time you go to one of these fine restaurants, bring some knowledge with you. Know these simple tips: the sommelier, or wine director should be at your service to give you a pleasant wine experience. Know that the temperature of a wine does matter. If it’s a white, make sure it is chilled and stays chilled with a bucket and ice. If it’s a red, a slight chill to less than room temperature will bring out the maximum flavor.

You don’t have to finish the bottle. Ask for a re-seal and bring it home with you. Get the best wine glass possible and don’t allow the wine poured from the bottle to be more than 1/3 of the way up, so you can swirl it, aerating for best flavor. If it’s an older vintage, ask to have it decanted to increase the flavor. And finally, consider bringing your own favorite ”special occasion” bottle in to the restaurant, to be assured you will be drinking something you prefer. For a slight “corkage” fee, you will have gained control of your personal wine experience.

Wine Bytes

* Falkner Winery in Temecula is hosting a New Release Wine Dinner, Sat. Aug. 29 at 6pm . It will be a full course gourmet meal with several tastings including the newest Super Tuscan Amante. Cost is $99. ea. RSVP at 951-676-8231 x109.

* The Art of Food & Wine at the Grand Del Mar Resort’s Addison is an exquisite 3 day art fair Wed. Sept. 2 to Fri. Sept. 4 with world class artists, food and wine events. This is investment grade art. Four chefs will unveil their creations in a five course meal for $200. pp. For RSVP information, access www.beyontheborder-art.com or e mail aberchtold@beyondtheborder-art.com.

* The Westgate Hotel downtown San Diego First Friday of the Month Wine Journey event is Fri. Sept. 4. You will enjoy a 3 course dinner with wine pairing for $49. ea. Contact number is 800-522-1564.

* Firefly Grill & Wine Bar in Encinitas is planning to be part of the huge San Diego Restaurant Week promotion from Sun. Sept. 13 to Sun. Sept. 20. Expect that delicious everyday dinner experience at Firefly at unexpected low pricing. Firefly will also host a Silverado Vineyards wine dinner on Wed. Sept. 23. Learn more at www.fireflygrillandwinebar.com.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Robert Renzoni Winery Grows Up

article and photo by Frank Mangio
It was only a little more than a year ago that I set foot on a dusty slope on the De Portola Trail of Temecula Wine Country to greet Robert and his father Fred Renzoni at their new Robert Renzoni Vineyards. At that time, they promised true Italian style wine, unlike any others in Temecula. The promise was kept, and then some.

This 12 acre remarkable estate has been busy making no less than 14 wines plus a startup Marinara Sauce, Olive Oil and Wine Vinegar business. The property is surrounded by soaring mountains with the vineyards tucked into hillside acreage with a creek running through picnic grounds. It could be Tuscany or Piedmont in the mother country of Italy .

Robert is a passionate product of several generations of Renzoni winemakers. “My family started making wine in 1886 on the Adriatic Coast of Italy,” he said. “I followed in 3 generations of footsteps in 1989. My family has more years in the wine business than the entire Valley. 95% of the varietals produced here are Italian.” We both sipped his latest triumph, a savory 2006 blend called Fiori Di Fano. “This is our version of a Super Tuscan,” he asserted. “It’s named after my great grandfather’s hometown of Fano , Italy and Fiore means flower. The blend is 40% Cabernet, 38% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 3% Cab Franc. It’s our flagship wine, aged 22 months in French Oak.” (Wine club price is $36.)

Robert Renzoni, proprietor of Robert Renzoni Vineyards in Temecula, celebrates his family legacy with each wine he makes.

He went on to say that “we are not feeling the depressed economy. It’s a wonderful experience with the growth of our company. The fruit this year is plentiful and we are even harvesting our first Brunello clone of Sangiovese, we first planted on 2007.” (This grape is considered the highest and best quality in Italy , from Montalcino in Tuscany .)

Another brilliantly produced wine is the 2007 Barbera. This Piedmont style wine is an easy to drink red with a smooth velvet touch to the palate. Robert and his team are producing wines with a lowered alcohol content, in keeping with traditional Italian wines that compliment food, not overpower it.

For summer wine tasting, the new estate Pinot Grigio is best. It has a perfumed fragrance with mild but penetrating floral notes. Wine club price is just $13.50.

The “Vino Famiglia” Wine Club gets the member two special pre-selected Robert Renzoni wines, six times a year, at 25% off the regular winery price. Other nice discounts apply and no membership fee is required. See the winery for full details. Call 951-699-7925 or access the web site at www.robertrenzonivineyards.com.

Summer Wines Are Everywhere In Temecula
This summer, like no other, light and pink summer wines are flourishing as more customers want easy-on-the-palate refreshing varietals. I have noticed two trends this season: white blends, combining several varietals into a winemaker’s proprietary offering; and the increase in rose (ro-zay) varietals, something of a comeback for this formerly overdone process.

In addition to the Robert Renzoni Pinot Grigio, mentioned above. Here are my summer wine recommendations the next time you do a day-trip to Temecula:

Ø Thornton Rose 2007. $22. A blend of 57% Cab Franc and 43% Sangiovese. Fruit forward and lip smacking cranberry, cherry and strawberry. Chill it for best flavor.

Ø Ponte Beverino 2008. $28.95. Beverino means “easy to drink” in Italian. Subtly sweet, try it with a dessert.

Ø La Cereza Viognier 2008. $24.95. We have raved about this Rhone style wine before. Rich, complex and perfumed.

Ø Falkner Riesling 2007. $16.95. Winning recent gold, a delightful pear flavored German style touch of sweet.

Ø Callaway Quartet 2008. $28. Subtle flavors of melon, pear and pineapple from four white grapes.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

"Wine Girl" Hits the Book Signing Circuit

Janene Roberts, (aka Wine Girl in several blogs, including this one) recently took delivery on her new book "Guide to Wine Tasting in Southern California and Beyond". This is the third edition of the popular guide to wine and wineries, that Janene has put together for learned wine lovers, as well as neophytes.

Wine Girl is making at least one appearance a week at local restaurants. book stores, wine lounges, etc. to offer her (signed) book, chat with folks, and exchange notes about wine and venues that may be considered for her next issue. This edition includes around $100 worth of money saving offers and discounts, not to mention the time and frustration saved by avoiding wine and wine places that may not be good for your budget (or palate).

You can check Janene's website for upcoming appearances (www.PopCornPressMedia.com)or order a copy of her book for just $15.95.

Janene Roberts (right) with Dorian Linkogle, owner of Briar Rose Winery in Temecula Wine Country. Dorian recently co-sponsored a book signing party for Janene, at Decanter Wine Lounge in Rancho Santa Fe.


Janene Roberts, author of Guide to Wine Tasting in Southern California and wine Beyond, is signing new books and comparing wine and food notes with friends at various locations around southern California.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Jeffery Osborne "Woo Woo Woos" Audience at Thornton Wine Summer Concert

Captions and photos by Mike Bragg. (Click photos for larger versions)

Thornton family matriarch Sally Thornton welcomed guests Saturday evening for a beautiful summer night of music, wine, and fine food, all under the stars at Thornton Winery.

Opening for headline performer Jeffery Osborne, saxophonist Michel Paolo filled the summer night with hot jazz notes.

Legendary R&B singer Jeffery Osborne performed new songs, and of course the songs from his nearly 40 year career as a singer, with hits such as "On the Wings of Love", "Close the Door", "Back in Love Again", "Stay With Me Tonight", "We're Going All the Way", and several others.






Always the class act showman and all arond nice guy, Jeffery took time after his concert to sit and chat with fans, while autographing copies of his latest music CD.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

The Paso Robles West Side Story (Part Deux)

by Frank Mangio
The previous column underlined the growing importance of Paso Robles as a major wine country with its more than 180 wineries emphasizing French Bordeaux and Rhone style wines. After nearly a week-long visit, with mostly West Side wineries in my sights, more needs to be revealed about this fastest growing California favorite.

The West Side is really those wineries west of Highway 101 and generally connected with State Highway 46 West. It is uncongested, rugged, hilly and much cooler, with the western boundaries just 6 miles from the Pacific Ocean.

The wines are spectacular. You got an in-depth example of this when the celebrated JustinWinery and Vineyard was profiled. We found out that a lot of Justin’s grapes are sourced from two nearby vineyards, so a visit to Denner Vineyards and Halter Ranch seemed to make sense.

Ron Denner has been at the winemaking business since 1997 on 156 acres of rocky, rolling hills on Vineyard Drive, a few miles from the 46 West. He prides himself on the ultra-premium Rhone style varietals that dot the wine list, including his “Theresa,” a white blend of Rousanne, Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc. The 2007 vintage was applauded by Wine Spectator as one of the finest white wines in California. They called it “elegant and refined with pear, citrus and tropical notes…intense and focused.”

I asked him how many grape varietals are grown at Denner. He said “14 types of grapes are harvested here, and we can do that successfully because of the wide diversity of climate and soils. The potential of Bordeaux styles like Cabernet and Merlot are limitless and best expressed by Justin’s Isoscles.

Ron Denner of Denner Winery in Paso Robles pours his top rated white “Theresa.”

We are now experimenting with Carmenere, a grape originally from Bordeaux and getting a reputation in Chile. My son Brian who made wines for 10 years inChile and is now our winemaker at Denner, introduced me to this exciting red wine,” he said.

Denner concluded our visit with a walk-through his Comus Center, a nearly-completed castle for events and Comus Club members. Comus, in Greek mythology, was the son of Bacchus the God of Wine. He was known for his revelry and prodigious appetite for great wines. Those who visit the annual Mardi Gras in New Orleans know the Comus Ball as the biggest and best. Ron Denner knows too. He has made Comus his model for success.

Halter Ranch is the largest vineyard west of Paso Robles, with 250 acres and 15 wineries on its client list. Mitch Wyss runs the operation which dates back to the 1880’s. 60% of the grapes are Bordeaux style, with 40% Rhone. “I treat each block of vineyards as a different kid that needs special attention and treatment to get the best out of each of them,” he said. He took me on a hair-raising ride up and down the steep slopes of the vineyard in what seemed like a runaway four wheel drive tractor- roller coaster. “The soil is the key here,” he yelled. “This is as close as you get to the limestone of the great Rhone Valley of France.” Halter does sell its own branded wines and I would recommend the 2006 Syrah blend, with Syrah, Malbec and Mourvedre.

Other wineries worth noting are Tablas Creek founded by the Haas and Perrin Families from France, a world class Chateauneuf-Du-Pape style vineyard. After years of searching for just the right wine country for this style of wine, they found their location on the West Side of Paso Robles. Robert Haas and his son Jason, are Rhone style wine experts, Robert Haas was recently honored as Wine Industry Person of the Year. A small 40 acre winery to try is AJB Vineyards, with an Italian approach, growing Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Zinfandel.

When you go exploring Paso Robles Wine Country, be sure to check out the palatial La Bellasera Hotel and Suites. Ask for one of the affordable suites with a whirlpool spa in the front room complete with roman columns and scenic backdrop. It fits four if you like company. When finished with your bath, robes are at your fingertips. A dining experience awaits in the Enoteca Restaurant and wine bar, with an extensive list featuring, of course, Paso Robles Wines. For more, access www.labellasera.com. Be sure to navigate the new wine country website at www.pasowine.com. It is a virtual experience unlike any other I have seen.

Wine Bytes
Downtown Fallbrook has its next Wine & A Bite Artwalk Sat. Aug. 15 from 5 to 7pm. Stroll, nibble and taste Fallbrook Winery at participating stores. $20. advance, $25. at the door. Call 877-451-3282.

WineSellar and Brasserie in Sorrento Valley, San Diego is presenting a Mod vs. Traditional Chardonnay Tasting Sat. Aug. 15 from 11:30am to 2pm. Six wines offered for a $32. fee. Reservations at 858-450-9557.

A Sights and Sips Hornblower San Diego Cruise is coming Sat. Aug. 22 from 5:30 to 8pm. It’s a floating happy hour with 4 different wine tastes. $30. ea. Details at 619-955-8884.

Reds, Whites and Green, a Culinary Adventure, happens Thurs. Aug. 27 from 4:30 to 8:30pm at Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo. It’s an elegant fund-raiser with gourmet foods, fine wines, microbrew, health and wellness services and products, to benefit the Poway School District. $45. pp in advance, $50. at the door. Contact 858-668-2273.

Orfila Winery in Escondido celebrates their annual Grape Stomp Sat. Aug. 29 from 4 to 8pm. Grape stomping in huge old wine barrels, full dinner buffet, wine tasting and dancing to live music. Meet Don Reha, the winemaker. $85. ea. Tickets purchased at 877-727-9463. or on line at www.orfila.com.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

The Paso Robles West Side Story

by Frank Mangio
Halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco lies California’s Central Coast and Paso Robles Wine Country. Its land features, warm days and cool nights with micro-climate conditions, allow it to make premium wines in 26,00o vineyard acres, producing more than 40 different varietals from more than 180 wineries. It is the fastest growing wine region in California. Paso Robles is a lovely and lively walking town as is the other attractive nearby villages of Cambria, Templeton and Morro Bay.

After a number of sweeping see-all trips, it was clear to me that the West Side of “Paso” held the most promise for a European style wine experience with its elevation of 1600 to 1800 feet and its radically changing microclimates. It’s not unusual to observe fog rolling in at anytime during the day, following Highway 46 West cooling the Templeton Gap, a finger-like valley that threads its way to the Pacific Ocean. This allows a co-existing of Bordeaux and Rhone style varietals that are the equal of their French counterparts.

On the West Side, Debby and Justin Baldwin started planting 72 acres of their 160 acre JUSTIN Winery and Vineyard in 1981. Then, there were only 8 wineries in the Paso Robles appellation. They did not drop their day jobs until 1991 when they began distribution of mostly French Bordeaux style wines. My conversation with Debby quickly turned to their world renowned Bordeaux blend “ISOSCELES.” This wine has been in my top ten tastes for a number of years, with the ’06 showing in my winners for the 1st half of this year.

I asked her about the process by which varietal selection decisions are made for ISOSCELES. She said “each year, we assemble a tasting panel after our winemakers put together 10 blends that they feel could be contenders, based on what the vintage and nature has given us. The grapes are always Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It is a blind tasting and includes our well-known Master Sommelier Joe Spellman and French wine specialist Philippe Melka. The latest ’06 release was made available a few months ago and has 86% Cab, 9% Cab Franc and 5% Merlot. The touch of Merlot mellows out the blend and helps those that want a drink-now experience.” Classic years for Isosceles will always have a high percentage of Cabernet, the Bordeaux style calling card. Kevin Sass, Justin’s young, talented winemaker called the ’06 elegant and structured, one of the best since the blend was founded in the mid-80’s. I also asked him about the newer blend, the 2006 Savant. He said “this is a Bordeaux and Rhone collaboration of 59% Syrah, 41% Cab.


The young, dynamic winemaker for JUSTIN, Kevin Sass, is producing wines in Paso Robles that are in the company of the finest wines in the world.

It has a dark, ruby red character with the bright fruit of Syrah, integrating nicely with the power and acidity of the cab. It’s barrel aged for 18 months in French Oak.” He wanted to speak to the evolution of Justin to a more European style of winemaking, yet with modern techniques of alcohol control.

“We have begun outside open-top barrel fermenting at JUSTIN, to create more effective sugar to alcohol dissipation. The 90 degree temperature during sugar fermentation, when it encounters the air temperature, results in lowered alcohol levels. Our ’07 Cabernet 13.5 % alcohol level is one of the lowest in the industry for a cab. This has a flavor benefit that ages better and matches up more effectively with food selection.”

When you visit, be sure to tour the JUSTIN Caves, some 100 feet below ground, storing over 5,000 barrels, or 3 years worth of wine. Within the caves, is the Isosceles Center, the vintage library and storage for this acclaimed wine.

At the tasting center, a petite, beautiful restaurant for intimate dinners and weekend lunches emphasizes garden fresh local menus, and is named DEBORAH’S ROOM. You can also stay at the JUST-INN, in one of the four warm, richly appointed comfortable rooms. For more information, call 800-726-0049 or access the website www.JUSTINwine.com.

In my next column, we will explore other wineries and a lovely resort with some eye-popping amenities. Look for Paso Robles West Side Story, part two.

Wine Bytes
The City of Hope Wine & Food Fest is Sun. Aug. 9 from 4 to 7pm on Strand Way, Coronado Island. It’s a day of wine and food pairings, silent auction and special entertainment. Pre-sale tickets are $55. ea. Call 858-452-6846 for more.

Decanter Wine Lounge & Restaurant in Cielo Village, Rancho Sante Fe is hosting a book signing and release party, Wed. Aug. 12 from 6:30 to 7:30pm. Janene Roberts, the author, will present her book “Wine Tasting in Southern California and Beyond,” and Briar Rose Winery in Temecula will pour 4 wines. Cost is $25. pp including a copy of the book. Call 858-756-9333 for details.

San Diego Wine & Culinary Center, across from the convention center, is hosting “Uncork the Cure” on Thurs. Aug. 13 from 6 to 9pm. It supports Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, with fine wines and cuisine offered for $50. ea. VIP admission with special privileges for $85. Details at 858-452-2873.

3rd Corner Wine Shop and Bistro in Encinitas is planning a Martinelli Wine Dinner, Wed. Aug. 18 at 6pm. A four course dinner with a different wine per course is offered for $90. per guest. Regina Martinelli will speak about the winery, one of Napa Valley’s oldest. Details by calling 760-942-2104.