Article and photo by Frank Mangio
A showcase of California’s small, family owned wineries will gather at the Del Mar Fairgrounds on Sunday March 15 in a 5 hour major tasting to include some 240 participants. The turnout of wineries from up and down the state has been so overwhelming, the building housing the event has been upgraded to the 30,000 square foot Wyland Center.
Veronica Barclay, chair of the Family Winemakers Tasting Committee commented that “the Del Mar tasting will offer a great opportunity for wine buyers and wine lovers to experience product from California’s small, family owned wineries. It will make this the largest representation of California boutique wines showcased in San Diego.”
The lineup of lovely vineyards and wineries is a who’s who of long-time favorites and rising stars.
One that stood out and is fascinating in the sense that it really is two wineries is the Francis Ford Coppola Rubicon Estate in the Napa Valley, and his Rosso & Bianco Winery in Sonoma. It is rare that a show of this type would draw this Hollywood icon’s wines. Coppola’s “Godfather” films are legend and his goal now is “to create a happy Italian family feeling of winemaking” in his latest Sonoma project. All his memorabilia is shown at this winery.
This first-ever tasting also attracted Falkner winery form the nearby Temecula Wine Country, and a number of greats from Paso Robles, including Justin, Vina Robles and Tablas Creek. The great Grgich Hills winery in Napa Valley will be there, as well as ZD wines. A trade and media tasting will be from 1pm to 3pm, then the public event will be from 3pm to 6pm. Cost is $40. in advance, $50. at the door.
For more information on wineries and ticket sales, go to www.familywinemakers.org" www.familywinemakers.org. You can also call 415-705-0646.
“Vino” Choices with Pasta
Up until a decade ago, Italian restaurants and home-made feasts of pasta, lasagna, ravioli, pizza and a host of other delicious dishes had one choice of “vino” and that was Chianti. Old grandfather types had their portraits on the jugs and the more authentic bottles were wound in straw.
My how times have changed! Italian Chianti is still available but now it’s Chianti Classico with the source grape clearly identified as Sangiovese, from Tuscany.
Up and down California, Sangiovese is grown and bottled with the grape name large and clear. It has become the wine of choice for the rich and tasty dishes of Italy.
This would be the end of the comment on wines with pasta a decade ago, but now with over 8,000 vineyards producing over 2 million acres of wine, Italian wines are a powerhouse of choices. The pairing of wines with pasta offer some lovely alternatives to the basic Chianti wines, and are found in Tuscany south to Sicily.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a fruity, light wine found east of Rome, usually an inexpensive, drink-now favorite. Sagratino di Montefalco is a heavier bodied wine full of minerality and found in the rising Umbria district, just east of Tuscany. Moving south where the pasta gets sweeter and heavier, you will want to try a Primitivo, which is the original Zinfandel, made famous in California. It’s grown primarily in the Puglia district and has dark, purple tones, and match the rich flavors of southern style Italian cooking. Aglianico is gaining in popularity and is from the Campania district and dates back to the 7th century BC. You’ll taste big, solid, tannic notes in this one.
There are more acres under vine in Sicily than anywhere else in Italy. Here the grape of choice is Nero d’Avola. I have reported many times on how this grape is exploding onto the world of wine as an inexpensive way to enjoy the Italian style of earthy red wine pleasure. The 2004 to 2007 vintages on all these wines have been superb, and are now stocked at your favorite wine shop.
Wine Bytes
Carlsbad Wine Merchants has a wine tasting event to benefit the Encinitas YMCA, this Sat. March 7 from 6 to 8pm. Wines from around the world will be poured with Italian style appetizers. Details by calling 760-804-9994.
Savory Casual Fare in Encinitas features a wine dinner with Paraiso, Thurs. March 12 starting at 6:30pm. Paraiso, from the Central Coast, is one of the first to feature ”sustainable farming methods.” $65. pp. Call for an RSVP at 760-634-5556.
Paso Robles Wine Country is offering their 17th annual Zinfandel Festival, set for Fri. March 20 thru Sun. the 22nd. The highlight is the prestigious Reserve event, an intimate gathering of the best of the best from 4 to 6pm on Fri. March 20, an auction on Sat. and a Grand Tasting on Sun. You can purchase part or all of the events, by going online at www.pasowine.com.
Thornton Winery in Temecula has a Spring Bounty event on Sat. March 14 starting at 3pm. Join Executive Chef Steve Pickell who will teach take-home recipes for you to cook in your own kitchen. Food and wines included in the $70. price. Reservations at 951-699-0099.
Eli’s Food and Wine in the Del Mar Highlands Center has a great wine lineup for his Sat. afternoon tastings. March 7: Loring Wines ’07 new releases. March 14: New releases from Dunn of Napa Valley and March 21: the wines of Biale including Black Chicken Zinfandel. Call 858-481-2323 for details.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Darioush Delights at Firefly
Article and story by Frank Mangio
The latest creation at Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas was a masterpiece of fine dining and premium wine pairing with Darioush Winery and Vineyard of Napa Valley. I applaud owner Jim Barrasso and Executive Chef Aaron Daily for their wine- first policy.
The two, in planning a paired menu, spend an extraordinary amount of time thoroughly examining the properties of each wine selection. Then they carefully craft a menu that will exalt each wine selection, enabling the guests to understand the capabilities of the wines chosen.
On the evening of the Darioush event, a spiced date leg of lamb with roasted eggplant, lentils and mint were the compliment to the Darioush 2005 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is considered best of breed at this renowned estate on the Silverado Trail in Napa. It is a subtle blend of 85% Cab, 10% Merlot and a hint of Petite Verdot and Malbec.
Ryan Norton from the winery also brought along a 2007 Signature Viognier from Darioush which paired to perfection with the passed around appetizers. “This is a California twist to a Rhone Valley French grape with tropical notes, lush and balanced acidity,” he said. “Red wine lovers go for this white with its complexity and ability to fit in with a lot of menu selections.”
Darioush is owned by Darioush Khaledi who comes from the cradle of wines, the middle east. Other wines that impressed included: a 2006 Signature Chardonnay.
Ryan Norton of Darioush, owner Jim Barrasso of Firefly and executive chef Aaron Daily at the Darioush Wine Dinner
Caravan 2005 Shiraz and a Signature 2005 Merlot. Darioush is the kind of winery you can get close to. Small and dedicated to the highest standards, it embraces the passion of Napa Valley. Learn more by accessing www.darioush.com.
The next Firefly wine event will be the Foxen Vineyards event on Wednesday March 4 at 6:30pm. Jim and Aaron have released the menu and the main course will be a plum and red wine braised short rib, complimenting a Foxen “Range 30 West” blend.
Jim also presides over occasional chef’s cooking classes and on Monday March 3rd at 6pm, he will teach at Kitchen Witch in Encinitas. Proper food and wine pairing will highlight the evening. Cost is $59. Call for details or check out the site: 760-635-1066 or www.fireflygrillandbar.com.
Giant Wines from the Woods of Washington
Up in the great northwest, the wines keep getting better. Washington is the 2nd largest appellation in the nation with over 30,000 acres and 500 wineries, though far less than #1, California. Most all grapes are grown in Eastern Washington, many miles from important destination wineries near Seattle like Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. In places like Walla Walla, Yakima and the Columbia Valley, the sun shines 17 hours a day, producing a short but intense growing season. The principle grapes are: Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
I have always liked Washington’s Cabs, blends and Merlots, kings of the red wine world. But let me call your attention to the big, bold Syrahs coming out of the state. The 2,830 acres devoted to this Rhone grape is in the middle of the state’s acreage allocation, but it has increased substantially. Washington Syrahs are big, bold and adventurous with an intense blueberry flavor. You get a big bang for the buck with most Washington Syrahs, but I would caution against too much alcohol in some, so check the label. Anything over 15% I would pass on. Some favorites include Dunham Cellars 2004, L’Ecole 2005, DiStefano 2005, Cayuse 2005. For more, search www.washingtonwine.org.
Wine Bytes
The laugh hit “Joey & Maria’s Comedy Italian Wedding” will come to Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula Sat. March 7. Doors open at 6pm and proceeds will benefit an area non profit. Champagne reception, auction and Italian dinner included. Tickets are $80. pp. Audience participation encouraged! Visit www.wilsoncreekwinery.com. Or call 951-699-WINE.
North County Wine Company in San Marcos presents Great Cabernet at its tasting on Fri. Feb. 27th from 5 to 8pm. Includes Simi, Cedar Knolls and Cakebread. $25. ea. Call 760-744-2119.
Holiday Wine Cellars in Escondido brings in Tricia Record of Levendi Winery of Napa Valley to host a Levendi tasting Thurs. March 5 from 5:30 to 7:30pm. Cost is $15. pp. Call 760-745-1200 for more.
Loews Coronado has its first “Farmers, Foragers and Fishermen” wine dinner on Thurs. March 5 at Mistral Restaurant. Eric Brandt of Brandt Beef will appear and speak about the natural beef process. Hours are 7 to 9pm with a cost of $48. Call Michael Graichen at 619-424-4000 ext 4000 for RSVP’s.
The latest creation at Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas was a masterpiece of fine dining and premium wine pairing with Darioush Winery and Vineyard of Napa Valley. I applaud owner Jim Barrasso and Executive Chef Aaron Daily for their wine- first policy.
The two, in planning a paired menu, spend an extraordinary amount of time thoroughly examining the properties of each wine selection. Then they carefully craft a menu that will exalt each wine selection, enabling the guests to understand the capabilities of the wines chosen.
On the evening of the Darioush event, a spiced date leg of lamb with roasted eggplant, lentils and mint were the compliment to the Darioush 2005 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is considered best of breed at this renowned estate on the Silverado Trail in Napa. It is a subtle blend of 85% Cab, 10% Merlot and a hint of Petite Verdot and Malbec.
Ryan Norton from the winery also brought along a 2007 Signature Viognier from Darioush which paired to perfection with the passed around appetizers. “This is a California twist to a Rhone Valley French grape with tropical notes, lush and balanced acidity,” he said. “Red wine lovers go for this white with its complexity and ability to fit in with a lot of menu selections.”
Darioush is owned by Darioush Khaledi who comes from the cradle of wines, the middle east. Other wines that impressed included: a 2006 Signature Chardonnay.
Ryan Norton of Darioush, owner Jim Barrasso of Firefly and executive chef Aaron Daily at the Darioush Wine DinnerCaravan 2005 Shiraz and a Signature 2005 Merlot. Darioush is the kind of winery you can get close to. Small and dedicated to the highest standards, it embraces the passion of Napa Valley. Learn more by accessing www.darioush.com.
The next Firefly wine event will be the Foxen Vineyards event on Wednesday March 4 at 6:30pm. Jim and Aaron have released the menu and the main course will be a plum and red wine braised short rib, complimenting a Foxen “Range 30 West” blend.
Jim also presides over occasional chef’s cooking classes and on Monday March 3rd at 6pm, he will teach at Kitchen Witch in Encinitas. Proper food and wine pairing will highlight the evening. Cost is $59. Call for details or check out the site: 760-635-1066 or www.fireflygrillandbar.com.
Giant Wines from the Woods of Washington
Up in the great northwest, the wines keep getting better. Washington is the 2nd largest appellation in the nation with over 30,000 acres and 500 wineries, though far less than #1, California. Most all grapes are grown in Eastern Washington, many miles from important destination wineries near Seattle like Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. In places like Walla Walla, Yakima and the Columbia Valley, the sun shines 17 hours a day, producing a short but intense growing season. The principle grapes are: Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
I have always liked Washington’s Cabs, blends and Merlots, kings of the red wine world. But let me call your attention to the big, bold Syrahs coming out of the state. The 2,830 acres devoted to this Rhone grape is in the middle of the state’s acreage allocation, but it has increased substantially. Washington Syrahs are big, bold and adventurous with an intense blueberry flavor. You get a big bang for the buck with most Washington Syrahs, but I would caution against too much alcohol in some, so check the label. Anything over 15% I would pass on. Some favorites include Dunham Cellars 2004, L’Ecole 2005, DiStefano 2005, Cayuse 2005. For more, search www.washingtonwine.org.
Wine Bytes
The laugh hit “Joey & Maria’s Comedy Italian Wedding” will come to Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula Sat. March 7. Doors open at 6pm and proceeds will benefit an area non profit. Champagne reception, auction and Italian dinner included. Tickets are $80. pp. Audience participation encouraged! Visit www.wilsoncreekwinery.com. Or call 951-699-WINE.
North County Wine Company in San Marcos presents Great Cabernet at its tasting on Fri. Feb. 27th from 5 to 8pm. Includes Simi, Cedar Knolls and Cakebread. $25. ea. Call 760-744-2119.
Holiday Wine Cellars in Escondido brings in Tricia Record of Levendi Winery of Napa Valley to host a Levendi tasting Thurs. March 5 from 5:30 to 7:30pm. Cost is $15. pp. Call 760-745-1200 for more.
Loews Coronado has its first “Farmers, Foragers and Fishermen” wine dinner on Thurs. March 5 at Mistral Restaurant. Eric Brandt of Brandt Beef will appear and speak about the natural beef process. Hours are 7 to 9pm with a cost of $48. Call Michael Graichen at 619-424-4000 ext 4000 for RSVP’s.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Wine and Valentines Day- Hearty Companions
by Frank Mangio
The romance of wine has been well documented in story and song. Couples are falling in love and having weddings at vineyards in increasing numbers. Elegant and extraordinary experiences have been the highest priority for the area wineries and restaurants that feature fine wine in their menus, as they plan for Valentines Day dinners on Saturday February 14th.
I have compiled a recommended list of those places that have wonderful experiences in place for their customers, but first let me introduce you to a Napa Valley Winery whose 33 acres are devoted to the romance of wine.
Bart and Barb O’Brien have owned and operated O’Brien Estate in the Oak Knoll district of Napa Valley since 2000. They have a home on the site. “We have re-grafted a great deal of the 33 acre vineyard from Chardonnay to its current 13 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest divided into Cab Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc,” Bart revealed. “What followed was a next-level move into a Bordeaux style blend which we decided to name Seduction, a deep dense purple wine with aromas of sweet black cherry. You taste intense currant and berry flavors on the palate, framed by fine-grained tannins,” he said. 2006 was a lovely year for this concentrated blend, and now the 2007 Seduction comes in a gift box that celebrates your someone special.
Bart and Barb O’Brien make wines in The Napa Valley that are perfectly suited for Valentines Day.
This year, Bart has the ultimate touch for Valentines Day with a “Romantic Trio,” three beautiful wines in a finely made limited edition wood gift box with velvet compartments. It contains: “Attraction” Chardonnay, “Romantic” Merlot and ”Seduction” Cabernet blend, and sells for $199. Check it out in time for Valentines Day by calling 707-252-8463 or go to: www.obrienestate.com.
Valentines Day Wine Bytes: Saturday February 14
Bernardo Winery’s Vino Valentino Dinner at Café Merlot where you select five wines to taste + gift glass, then estate aged wines and dinner in the Barrel Room. Jazz music and other surprise gifts. $75. each. $125. for two. RSVP at 858-487-1866.
Salerno Winery in Ramona has a dinner with the winemaker and opera music. Salmon with Salerno’s ’02 Elegante along with salad and the popular Salerno Petite Sirah; roasted white fish and seared tenderloin with the Estate Sensation. $80. pp. Contact Rose at 760-788-7160.
Valentines Day at the elegant Grand Del Mar includes an awesome six course dinner from Executive Chef William Bradley, capped by milk-fed Rotie or Braised Beef Shortribs. $125. pp with other options. Get the full story by calling 858-314-1900.
Savory Casual Fare in Encinitas has created exceptional meals served from 4pm to 9pm at $56. ea. or $78. with champagnes and matching wines. Entrees include filet of beef or Opakapuka. Call for RSVPs at 760-634-5556.
In Temecula Wine Country:
Ponte Winery has a candle-lit 4 course dinner in the Barrel Room, with one seating at 7pm. $95. pp. Call 951-694-8855.
Falkner Winery has a lovely four course feast in the Pinnacle Restaurant with pairings of their best wines, including Champagne and Port. Call at 951-676-8231 ext 1.
Thornton Winery has a Valentines Rendezvous with a 4-star dinner for two, a decadent dessert and premium wines. Petite Filet Mignon and grilled shrimp top the menu. $80. ea. Call 951-699-0099.
Allie’s Bistro and Lounge in Temecula has a 5 course dinner for $49. ea., or dinner with paired wines for $74. per guest. Call 951-695-8620.
Keyways Vineyard & Winery invites you to a sequel to Andrew Lloyd Weber’s Phantom of the Opera that starts at 7:30pm. A four course dinner is included with premium wines. $94. a person. Call 951-302-7888.
Send wine and food news to winenews@tasteofwinetv.com
The romance of wine has been well documented in story and song. Couples are falling in love and having weddings at vineyards in increasing numbers. Elegant and extraordinary experiences have been the highest priority for the area wineries and restaurants that feature fine wine in their menus, as they plan for Valentines Day dinners on Saturday February 14th.
I have compiled a recommended list of those places that have wonderful experiences in place for their customers, but first let me introduce you to a Napa Valley Winery whose 33 acres are devoted to the romance of wine.
Bart and Barb O’Brien have owned and operated O’Brien Estate in the Oak Knoll district of Napa Valley since 2000. They have a home on the site. “We have re-grafted a great deal of the 33 acre vineyard from Chardonnay to its current 13 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest divided into Cab Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc,” Bart revealed. “What followed was a next-level move into a Bordeaux style blend which we decided to name Seduction, a deep dense purple wine with aromas of sweet black cherry. You taste intense currant and berry flavors on the palate, framed by fine-grained tannins,” he said. 2006 was a lovely year for this concentrated blend, and now the 2007 Seduction comes in a gift box that celebrates your someone special.
Bart and Barb O’Brien make wines in The Napa Valley that are perfectly suited for Valentines Day.
This year, Bart has the ultimate touch for Valentines Day with a “Romantic Trio,” three beautiful wines in a finely made limited edition wood gift box with velvet compartments. It contains: “Attraction” Chardonnay, “Romantic” Merlot and ”Seduction” Cabernet blend, and sells for $199. Check it out in time for Valentines Day by calling 707-252-8463 or go to: www.obrienestate.com.
Valentines Day Wine Bytes: Saturday February 14
Bernardo Winery’s Vino Valentino Dinner at Café Merlot where you select five wines to taste + gift glass, then estate aged wines and dinner in the Barrel Room. Jazz music and other surprise gifts. $75. each. $125. for two. RSVP at 858-487-1866.
Salerno Winery in Ramona has a dinner with the winemaker and opera music. Salmon with Salerno’s ’02 Elegante along with salad and the popular Salerno Petite Sirah; roasted white fish and seared tenderloin with the Estate Sensation. $80. pp. Contact Rose at 760-788-7160.
Valentines Day at the elegant Grand Del Mar includes an awesome six course dinner from Executive Chef William Bradley, capped by milk-fed Rotie or Braised Beef Shortribs. $125. pp with other options. Get the full story by calling 858-314-1900.
Savory Casual Fare in Encinitas has created exceptional meals served from 4pm to 9pm at $56. ea. or $78. with champagnes and matching wines. Entrees include filet of beef or Opakapuka. Call for RSVPs at 760-634-5556.
In Temecula Wine Country:
Ponte Winery has a candle-lit 4 course dinner in the Barrel Room, with one seating at 7pm. $95. pp. Call 951-694-8855.
Falkner Winery has a lovely four course feast in the Pinnacle Restaurant with pairings of their best wines, including Champagne and Port. Call at 951-676-8231 ext 1.
Thornton Winery has a Valentines Rendezvous with a 4-star dinner for two, a decadent dessert and premium wines. Petite Filet Mignon and grilled shrimp top the menu. $80. ea. Call 951-699-0099.
Allie’s Bistro and Lounge in Temecula has a 5 course dinner for $49. ea., or dinner with paired wines for $74. per guest. Call 951-695-8620.
Keyways Vineyard & Winery invites you to a sequel to Andrew Lloyd Weber’s Phantom of the Opera that starts at 7:30pm. A four course dinner is included with premium wines. $94. a person. Call 951-302-7888.
Send wine and food news to winenews@tasteofwinetv.com
Friday, February 6, 2009
A Man of the Soil – Leon Santoro: 1950-2009
Article and Photo by Frank Mangio
The wine world was saddened when one of its greats passed away January 22nd of a festering lung disease known as Pulminary Fibrosis. Leon Santoro and I used to stroll his vineyards at Orfila Winery in Escondido, his 30 some years of experience weaving a master’s touch to the grapes we tasted and the vines he described, as a father would to a son. The man that would deliver more than 1,300 medals for brilliant wines to Orfila, proving that fine wines could be produced in Southern California, left us much too soon.
Leon’s life started in Villa Santa Maria near Abruzzi, northeast of Rome. He was exposed to winemaking at an early age but was groomed to be a chef. He came to the U.S. at age 17 and earned a degree in chemistry. But wine was in his blood and he successfully applied for a junior winemaking job at Louis Martini Winery in the fabled Napa Valley of Calfornia. His next appointment was with the Stag’s Leap Winery owned by the famed winemaker Warren Winiarski, who had already established himself as a premier Cabernet Sauvignon producer by beating the French in the historic “Paris Tasting” of 1976. With Leon’s help, Stags Leap went on to win double gold in the London Wine Festival of 1978. Leon often called Winiarski his mentor.
I talked to the now retired Winiarski about this. “Leon made valuable contributions to our success. He was an exacting man with great commitment to vineyard management. He always looked at things differently and offered suggestions of great invention. We were fortunate to have the opportunity of his ideas to improve the winery.”
Leon Santoro, (shown at Orfila Winery) sampling the ’05 Heritage Syrah.
After years of impressive performance in the Napa Valley, Leon turned his attention to a challenge in the little-known San Diego County wine country and in 1991 began his brilliant 2nd career in winemaking in what was to become Orfila Winery in Escondido. Allejandro Orfila purchased the winery in 1993 only because Leon assured him he would stay and transform the winery into a world-class fine wine vineyard and winery. “I saw in Leon a man of strong personality who loved winemaking. He was the only asset the winery had. I knew then we would make the perfect team,” Orfila said.
Leon proceeded to take out the existing Chardonnay and graft grapes suited to the land: Mediterranean style Syrah and Sangiovese from France and Italy. The 70 acre estate over the years took on a distinctly red look to it and shined in the spotlight when Leon was named the 2003 Winemaker of the Year by the prestigious California Travel Association. A year later, I began my friendship with Leon, writing about this man who made such beautiful wines.
In 2006, in the middle of one of our tasting room meetings, he offered me a sip of a wine he had been cultivating for some time and was releasing with the odd name of Viognier, Lot 45. It was a stunning white blend of 73% viognier, with some marsanne and rousanne, grapes from the Rhone Valley of France. I immediately knew it would be a sensation and made it one of my Top Ten Wines of 2006. Leon then took it to Bordeaux France for international competition and won a gold medal, then another in the San Francisco competition. His latest Viognier release, Lot 67, made my Top Ten in 2008.
Larry Himmel, a veteran broadcaster in San Diego and long-time family friend said of Leon.
“He was passionate not only about wine, he was passionate about family(Leon left his wife Carla and two small children, Ryan and Amy), and passionate about life. You met Leon once and he was your best friend. We became great buds over the years, sharing our stories and his amazing wines. When I lost my house in the wildfire (2007), next day Leon sent me the gift I needed most…a case of wine. Those bottles got my wife and I through some tough times.”
Linda Kissam, a respected wine marketer in Southern California called Leon “one of the most talented, charming and engaging personalities in the California wine business. Although he was fiercely competitive, there was a softer, huggable side the he allowed to come out whenever we would meet.”
In a signature message on a bottle of his Heritage Syrah, Leon wrote me on July 10th of last year when his condition was becoming worse, “To my dear friend Frank. Wishing you a happy and long life. Ciao, Leon Santoro.”
Wish you were still here Leon. We will miss you, but I know you’re happy in your new heavenly vineyard making fine wines that are strong and true.
A scholarship fund has been set up to help Carla and Leon’s children with their higher education. To learn more, contact Steve Harrington at 1st Pacific Bank, 3500 College Blvd, Oceanside, Ca. Phone 760-477-2970.
(Wine Bytes recommending wine events will return next week)
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur, certified by Wine Spectator. His columns can be viewed here each week. He is one of the top wine commentators on the web. Email him at mangiompc@aol.com
News and winery reviews for this site can be sent to winenews@tasteofwinetv.com
The wine world was saddened when one of its greats passed away January 22nd of a festering lung disease known as Pulminary Fibrosis. Leon Santoro and I used to stroll his vineyards at Orfila Winery in Escondido, his 30 some years of experience weaving a master’s touch to the grapes we tasted and the vines he described, as a father would to a son. The man that would deliver more than 1,300 medals for brilliant wines to Orfila, proving that fine wines could be produced in Southern California, left us much too soon.
Leon’s life started in Villa Santa Maria near Abruzzi, northeast of Rome. He was exposed to winemaking at an early age but was groomed to be a chef. He came to the U.S. at age 17 and earned a degree in chemistry. But wine was in his blood and he successfully applied for a junior winemaking job at Louis Martini Winery in the fabled Napa Valley of Calfornia. His next appointment was with the Stag’s Leap Winery owned by the famed winemaker Warren Winiarski, who had already established himself as a premier Cabernet Sauvignon producer by beating the French in the historic “Paris Tasting” of 1976. With Leon’s help, Stags Leap went on to win double gold in the London Wine Festival of 1978. Leon often called Winiarski his mentor.
I talked to the now retired Winiarski about this. “Leon made valuable contributions to our success. He was an exacting man with great commitment to vineyard management. He always looked at things differently and offered suggestions of great invention. We were fortunate to have the opportunity of his ideas to improve the winery.”
Leon Santoro, (shown at Orfila Winery) sampling the ’05 Heritage Syrah.After years of impressive performance in the Napa Valley, Leon turned his attention to a challenge in the little-known San Diego County wine country and in 1991 began his brilliant 2nd career in winemaking in what was to become Orfila Winery in Escondido. Allejandro Orfila purchased the winery in 1993 only because Leon assured him he would stay and transform the winery into a world-class fine wine vineyard and winery. “I saw in Leon a man of strong personality who loved winemaking. He was the only asset the winery had. I knew then we would make the perfect team,” Orfila said.
Leon proceeded to take out the existing Chardonnay and graft grapes suited to the land: Mediterranean style Syrah and Sangiovese from France and Italy. The 70 acre estate over the years took on a distinctly red look to it and shined in the spotlight when Leon was named the 2003 Winemaker of the Year by the prestigious California Travel Association. A year later, I began my friendship with Leon, writing about this man who made such beautiful wines.
In 2006, in the middle of one of our tasting room meetings, he offered me a sip of a wine he had been cultivating for some time and was releasing with the odd name of Viognier, Lot 45. It was a stunning white blend of 73% viognier, with some marsanne and rousanne, grapes from the Rhone Valley of France. I immediately knew it would be a sensation and made it one of my Top Ten Wines of 2006. Leon then took it to Bordeaux France for international competition and won a gold medal, then another in the San Francisco competition. His latest Viognier release, Lot 67, made my Top Ten in 2008.
Larry Himmel, a veteran broadcaster in San Diego and long-time family friend said of Leon.
“He was passionate not only about wine, he was passionate about family(Leon left his wife Carla and two small children, Ryan and Amy), and passionate about life. You met Leon once and he was your best friend. We became great buds over the years, sharing our stories and his amazing wines. When I lost my house in the wildfire (2007), next day Leon sent me the gift I needed most…a case of wine. Those bottles got my wife and I through some tough times.”
Linda Kissam, a respected wine marketer in Southern California called Leon “one of the most talented, charming and engaging personalities in the California wine business. Although he was fiercely competitive, there was a softer, huggable side the he allowed to come out whenever we would meet.”
In a signature message on a bottle of his Heritage Syrah, Leon wrote me on July 10th of last year when his condition was becoming worse, “To my dear friend Frank. Wishing you a happy and long life. Ciao, Leon Santoro.”
Wish you were still here Leon. We will miss you, but I know you’re happy in your new heavenly vineyard making fine wines that are strong and true.
A scholarship fund has been set up to help Carla and Leon’s children with their higher education. To learn more, contact Steve Harrington at 1st Pacific Bank, 3500 College Blvd, Oceanside, Ca. Phone 760-477-2970.
(Wine Bytes recommending wine events will return next week)
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur, certified by Wine Spectator. His columns can be viewed here each week. He is one of the top wine commentators on the web. Email him at mangiompc@aol.com
News and winery reviews for this site can be sent to winenews@tasteofwinetv.com
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