Florence: A city immortal, unforgettable, richly endowed

Italian wine specialist Marco Barat, left, and owner Martin Gonzalez, at a recent Acqua Al2 wine seminar.

Photo and Article by Frank Mangio

San Diego is no match for Florence’s culture, with priceless works by DaVnci, Botticelli, Michelangelo and the Renaissance. However there is a link to the two cities and it’s a culinary one.

In 1978, the theater district at the Piazza della Signoria in Florence was blessed with a charming Tuscan inspired restaurant called Acqua Al2, (pronounced ‘ah-qwa-all-doo-eh’).

An intimate masterpiece of dining, it proved to be an Italian artist’s haven for Florentine fine food and wine connoisseurs. Fast forward to the late 90’s and 25 year old Martin Gonzalez, world traveler and chef, is so taken by what he sees and feels at Acqua Al2 that he must open his own San Diego location.

After extensive training and education into traditional Italian cooking in Florence, Martin opened the 2nd location of Acqua Al2 in San Diego’s Gaslamp District in 2000. Food items are prepared as they would in the original Florence restaurant, with fresh baked breads, Insalata ( salads, Primi ( rice and pasta), Secondi ( steak, seafood and other entrees), homemade Dolci (desserts). Assagios are sample portions of each menu item.

For instance Assagio di Primi is a sampling of five Italian pasta dishes. The restaurant’s signature white plates, shown on the wall in the photo, are signed by special guests who have dined.

My wine menu recommendations include Banfi Rose Regale, a gorgeous sparkling wine with a pairing that compliments appetizers and desserts; and Aglianico Rubrato 2005 from Feudi San Gregorio, Campania Italy, that enhances the full flavor of a steak.

If pasta is a must on your menu selection, I suggest you try the Rigatoni alle Melanzane that features a tomato eggplant sauce, brilliantly blended with mozzarella and parmesan cheeses.

Acqua Al2 has been conducting occasional classes that have been successful and two others are scheduled. Wednesday April 1 will be a white wine class; then Wednesday May 6, a Spirits Tasting will be held. Times are 6:30pm to 8pm, for $15. per person. Hot appetizers are included as a well as gift bag. Contact the restaurant at 619-230-0382 for an RSVP. Get the full story on this distinctive Italian dining establishment at www.acquaal2.com.


Next-Generation Decanting
Serving red wine takes on a higher dimension when the wine is decanted. Simply put, decanting is the process of pouring the wine from its original bottle into another glass container with a wide opening.

The wine sits while several things happen, all good, to enhance its taste. Sediment is allowed to float to the bottom so that the tart tastes aren’t influencing your drink. Next, the wine is allowed to breathe and mature, developing the maximum taste sensation. Then there are the softening of the tannins, a taste characteristic of the grape skins that can be harsh to the palate, especially in earthly, high profile reds like Cabernet, Zinfandel, Shiraz and most Italian and French wines.

If decanting is something you want to explore, hold the wine in the decanter for at least an hour before serving, to get the most benefit from this process.

A next-generation decanter meeting with popularity is a the V-1 Decanter, one that comes with a vacuum stopper and a hand pump, to preserve any left-over wine. This is a first for a decanter. Price is about $80. and holds two bottles of wine with a “dimple” that makes for easy pouring. See www.mtrokane.com.

Aerators are growing in sales as an inexpensive and quick fix. These are six inch tall devices that pour wine through a vinturi-like capsule and in just as long as it takes to pour the wine, you have an oxygen- enriched drink for the fullest flavor. There are two to choose from: The Vinturi Wine Aerator and a later version called the Respirer with a frosted look and a glass shaped reservoir. Both are about $35. You can compare both at www.wineenthusiast.com, then hit Decanters and Aerators.

Wine Bytes
San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Rd has an all-French Burgundy, Bordeaux and Rhone Valley tasting Sat. March 28 from 11-4:30pm. Only $10. Call 858-586-9463.

In Escondido, Holiday Wine Cellar holds its monthly Blind Tasting on Mon. March 30 from 5:30 to 7:30pm, featuring 5 Sauvignon Blancs from around the world. Find out more at 760-745-1200. Just $5. pp.

Banfi Wines from Italy take center stage at Olivetto Café on Washington St. in San Diego Mon. March 30 from 6 to 9pm. 5 Course dinner included, for $75. RSVP at 619-220-8222. The Banfi Summus Estate Red is featured with the main entrée.

Wed. Apr. 1, enjoy 3rd Corner Encinitas Saracina Wine Dinner and John Fetzer who had the big Fetzer Winery. His new venture is Saracina from Mendocino. Enjoy a 4 course dinner with John and his wines for $59.95. RSVP at 760-942-2104.

A Meet the Winemaker dinner is featured at Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo, Wed. Apr 1 starting at 6:30pm. The winery’s own Rossi Rizzo guides diners. Hosted by Café Merlot and the winery. Call for more at 858-592-7785.

Experience six food and wine-filled days in Arizona at the Scottsdale Culinary Festival Wed. Apr 14 thru Sun. Apr.19. Fabulous food, festivities, cooking demonstrations and headlined by the Great Arizona Picnic on Sat. and Sun.
Go to www.scottsdaleculinaryfestival.org for the full story and tickets.

Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur, certified by Wine Spectator. He is one of the top wine commentators on the web. E-mail him at mangiompc@aol.com

Wine and Cigars Pair Well at La Cereza Winery

Article and photo by Frank Mangio
The big buzz in the wine world has been wine and food pairing. A new appreciation of the relationship of a fine wine with a menu item that will bring out its ultimate characteristics has had chefs and winemakers trading flavor ideas, with the diner the big winner. Five course dinners pair up with five elegant wines, from white to the dense bold reds, usually offered with the main course.

Enter La Cereza Winery in Temecula Wine Country with a new idea that’s causing a lot of interest with wine lovers, some of which may surprise you. But first a little background. Buddy and Cheri Linn came from the trade show world and burst on the Temecula wine world a few years ago when they purchased not one but two side-by-side wineries: Maurice Carrie, primarily a maker of white wines, and what is now La Cereza Winery, featuring Spanish reds, but with a niche of fine whites that have taken some important awards in recent competitions.

These two entrepreneurs have changed the landscape of wine in Temecula. They are both gifted in the sense that they understand and act on the next big trend in the industry. When they purchased the wineries, they made sure they secured the services of Gus Vizgirda, a premium winemaker in the valley, and one who could keep up with the innovations of the Linns, which included a move to feature Spanish wines.


Buddy and Cheri Linn at their La Ceraza Winery and Hemingway’s Cigar Bar

Grape varietals like Tempranillo and Garnacha have rocketed in sales and awards with the 2005 Garnacha grabbing gold in the recent Dallas wine competition. The couple have created a Spanish art gallery atmosphere in their tasting room and recently opened Hemingway’s Cigar and Wine Bar, a kind of Havana hideaway atmosphere. Customers can kick back on the soft leather oversize chairs and trade stories at the old world style bar under the portrait of “Papa Hemingway” and Cuban style portraits that characterize the fun of La Cereza.

All this of course leads up to the latest turn by Buddy and Cheri, into the new line of five premium La Cereza Cigars, carefully paired with their wines for maximum flavor and enjoyment.

“Fine cigars with fine wine are finally the missing ingredient to complete wine relaxation and the Hemingway experience,” Vizgirda said.

Buddy Linn added “we searched in several different countries for over a year to find the right blend of tobaccos, while finding the master rollers to create these extraordinary cigars.”

It starts out with the mild “Girlfriends” cigar that matched up with the light and fun “Girlfriends” white wine, popular with ladies at the bar.

The top of the line is the “Presidente,” made in the Dominican Republic and aged for 5 years. The rich earthiness matches up with the winery’s 2006 Tempranillo.

Fine wine, food, art and music have all made their imprint on the bloodline of La Cereza. Now, you can add premium cigars to the pedigree. For more, see www.lacerezawinery.com.

San Diego County Restaurant Week Sets Record
It started with a pep rally featuring San Diego’s Mayor Jerry Sanders, with some 50 participating restaurants in attendance at Tom Ham’s on Harbor Island in January.

The Restaurant Week promotion eventually brought 180 restaurants together countywide for up to 90% increases in diners and sales, attracted by the values of $20. to $40. for gourmet three course dinners.

Chair and co-founder Ingrid Croce of Croce’s Downtown Gaslamp Restaurant said “we’re thrilled that even with the downturn, this promotion was a great success, so much so we are going to bring it back later this year, September 13 to 18.” Visit www.restaurantweek.com for details.

Wine Bytes
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas announced their next three Friday wine pourings: the Wines of Spain on March 20, Napa Wines on March 27 and French Wines on April 3. Events are 6 to 8pm. Details on pricing at 760-479-2500.

A new wine bar and restaurant has started up in Rancho Santa Fe at the Ciela community, with a daily menu of unique wines and menu pairings. It’s called Decanter. The owner and sommelier is Jayson Knack. He has stocked over 4,500 wines from around the world. Phone is 858-756-9333.

Bacchus Wine Market on G Street downtown San Diego has Italian whites and French reds at their weekly tasting on Fri. March 20, 4 to 8pm and Sat. March 21, 2 to 8pm. $15. pp. Call 619-236-0005.

An Italian wine dinner is the next event at Pala Mesa Resort in Fallbrook planned for Thurs. March 26, starting with a reception at 6pm. Vermintino, Sangiovese and Moscato wines are spotlighted. $69. ea. RSVP at 760-731-6805.

Ferrari Carano, one of the premier Sonoma Wineries is presenting their Taste of Spring Event, Sun. Apr. 5 from 11 to 4pm at the winery in Healdsburg. It’s a wine and food pairing with new vintages of their award winning wines. Includes a tour of the beautiful gardens and barrel rooms.

Admission is $25. and includes a souvenir glass. Call 707-433-6700 or see www.ferrari-carano.com.

A Taste of Wine can now also be seen in the glossy magazine, FINE HOMES AND LIVING. Look for it at news stands in San Diego County.

At Vigilucci’s The Party Never Stops

by Frank Mangio

One of the most congenial personalities in the Italian food and wine scene in San Diego County has to be Roberto Vigilucci. A product of the kitchens of Milan and Tuscany, Robbie, as his friends and long-time customers call him, developed a passion for food and wine. “I was lucky to come to Southern California and Encinitas in 1994. I was at the right place and at the right time when I saw the need for a classic Italian restaurant in the downtown area,” he said. “Then, very few people walked and ate downtown. Now there is a busy night life and a lot of travelers who have been to Italy and want that rustic old world experience. They are eating later and coming back.”
Jadine and Roberto, with Frank Mangio

Roberto recently celebrated his 15 th Anniversary and announced the coming of his 8th San Diego County location in Coronado with an expected May opening. It will have stunning views from the main dining room. “All of my restaurants are a little bit different, but the Marinara red sauce is the same high quality in all my locations. Also, my family recipe for Osso Buco Veal Shank is consistent in all my locations”

I asked Roberto how he manages to keep quality control in all of his restaurants. “I make sure I taste the sauce in each location. That tells me if it passes my taste test, and is ready for my customers.” The current Carlsbad coastal, La Jolla and the soon-to-be Coronado location have a seafood, steak and chop house format with elegant fixtures, some from the famed Murano glass factories in Venice.

The conversation came around to the wines in Robbie’ s collection. He carries some 400 selections in the Encinitas location, including his own Vigilucci Merlot which tasted velvety smooth. The real treasure trove is in his La Jolla location in a private cellar, full of Italian classics from Gaja and Amerone; and “Super Tuscans” like Tignanello, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. “I love collecting wines from all over the world, but they are all on the menu so that we can sell them,” he said.

With a Mediterranean twinkle in his eye, Robbie revealed that he is building out a gourmet imported Italian marketplace late this year with the best cheeses, cold cuts, olives, breads, pastas and other delicious Italian food and wine. It will also serve as a catering outlet. “Perfettto!”

Portugal is More than Just Port
The world of Port, real Port is exclusively a Portugese creation. Vintage Port is the top of the line and can be expensive as it offers many years of cultivation to taste its best.

A “late bottled Vintage Port” about ten years old is more approachable and the cost savings makes it worth a try. These lovely sipping wines are from the Douro Valley, a winegrowing area that is attracting interest and not just for Port. This appellation in northeast Portugal has over 2,000 years of winemaking history.

The new winemakers, the “Douro Boys,” are obsessed with quality in the table wines that make. They work with the steep hillsides and crevices made of granite that drains well. The roots burrow deeply, and that is critical to survive the very hot, mostly dry climate.

The five leading grape varietals to look for are: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao, Touriga Francesca and Tinta Roriz. Touriga Nacional is the most important and is used to in Port.

Wine Bytes
The Pacific Coast Wine Festival at the 5 diamond Island Hotel in Newport Beach is planned for Sat. March 21 starting at 5:30pm to support Orange County’s Pacific Symphony and its children’s programs. Events include a Wine Auction of rare wines and a sumptuous wine dinner. You will also be sampling from an array of fine wineries. Limit 300 attendees. Tickets are $250. pp. Call 714-876-2363 or visit www.pacificcoastwinefestival.org.

3rd Corner Encinitas has a fascinating wine tasting related to our Portugal wine article. Now you can taste test them with Spanish wines on Sat. March 14 from 2 to 5pm for only $10. ea. Call 760-942-2104 for more.

Tastes in Encinitas is planning a winemaker dinner on Sun. March 15 at 6pm. A five course dinner will pair with the wines of Pisoni and Lucia Vineyards. Gary Pisoni will be there to present his wines, including his favorite Pinot Noirs. $130. cost. Call 760-942-9549 for RSVP’s.

Friar’s Folly in San Marcos has re-made Mondays as popular wine-drinkng happy hours. Great discounts by the glass and themes like tarot reading, matchmaker Mondays and lots more surprises. Check it out at 760-736-8035.