Grand Del Mar Uncorks Fall Wine Spectacular

by Frank Mangio

If you’re like me and most of the known world, a 249 room elegant resort, with a championship golf course and two French-Mediterranean eating areas cannot be your private residence. Not in your wildest of dreams.

But thanks to the Grand Del Mar, you can relax like it was your own, enjoy classic cuisine from Addison or Amaya, and choose from what I consider to be the best wine list in California .

I usually arrive early for a lunch, dinner or a meeting, and sit in a different focal point of the resort, enjoying the lush renaissance Mediterranean décor. At the Grand Del Mar, you will discover brilliantly carved architecture; a peerless work with moods of Morocco , Spain , Italy and France . Yet a closer look finds such simple amenities as a natural vegetable garden so the chef can indulge in the freshest of ingredients for his guests.

But I digress. This is a wine column and the Grand Del Mar is unveiling a wine spectacular for fall. So let’s get to it.

Peak experiences await the wine and food lover as Amaya, Addison and the resort lobby bar collaborate in a grand series of events.

On Thursday October 8 from 5:30 to 10pm , Master Sommelier Chris Blanchard, who supervises restaurant wine pograms in Los Angeles , San Francisco and the Napa Valley , will star in an Amaya winemaker dinner featuring Chapellet Wines. He will team up with resident wine director Jesse Rodriguez and Chef Camron Woods in a four course pairing dinner for $75. per person. The 2nd annual Winemaker Quintet at Addison is planned for Sunday October 25 with a reception at 6pm and dinner at 7pm .


William Bradley is the acclaimed chef at Addison.

It will be an inspired night with Addison ’s award-winning chef William Bradley, guest chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, Jesse Rodriguez and several guest winemakers, mostly from the Napa Valley . Cost is $270. per person. RSVP at 858-314-1900.

In the lobby lounge there will be wine tasting on Tuesday October 13 from 5 to 7pm with Sokol Blosser from Oregon ’s Dundee Hills. Fee is $20. The next night, Wednesday October 14, “Wines for Fall Feasts” will feature a cooking workshop, wine reception, take-home recipes and perfect food/wine pairings. Cost is $75. per person. To reserve space for this activity at the Grand Del Mar, call 858-314-2000. See the website at www.thegranddelmar.com.

Is Red Wine Giving You a Headache?

The most recurring whines I hear about red wine consumption is “it gives me a headache” and “it must be the sulfites.” It’s one thing to dislike something because it doesn’t agree with your taste buds. That is usually the reason some people don’t like certain foods. I respect and accept that.

I dislike asparagus. I don’t’ really know why but I don’t point the finger at its composition.

Sulfites are chemicals that are present in wines and the warning labels on American wines make it seem like this a major injection and should be feared. European wines have the same sulfites but their governments don’t mandate a warning label.

Sulfites present themselves in the fermentation process, but are so minor (about 1o milligrams in a typical glass of wine) as to be barely perceptible. They in fact aid in the preservation of wine flavor and should not be pointed to as a problem. Indeed, if you have dry-mouth or a headache from red wine consumption, you ought to be looking at the alcohol level and the vintage of the wine you selected. A 2 year old Cabernet is loaded with strong tannins, a compound in the skins which controls taste, structure and preservation. Aging mellows out the tannins and makes the wines live longer. That 2 year Cabernet should take on more beauty and lusciousness when it’s 4 years old.

An alcohol level approaching 15% or more has a cocktail effect on the wine and will make you feel it, perhaps with a headache. Most wineries are lowering their alcohol level to 14% or below, mostly due to food and wine pairings that enhance taste. This is more and more the trend in homes and restaurants.

Look at the label before buying that next bottle of red wine. Select more years and less alcohol. That headache may not be there the next time you taste your next bottle

Wine Bytes

* Vino 100 in San Marcos has wines from around the world as their theme for a tasting on Fri. Oct. 2 from 5 to 9pm . $15. pp. More info at 760-591-9113.

* Delicias Restaurant in the Village of Rancho Santa Fe presents Open That Bottle Night on Wed. Oct. 7. This is a nation-wide “BYOB” event started by the Wall Street Journal wine columnists. Free corkage fee. Enjoy California fresh cuisine from Chef Michael Knowles. Call 858-756-8000 for an RSVP.

* Valley View Casino in Valley Center combines Art, Music and Wine for a free Festival, Sun. Oct. 11 from 11 to 6pm . Gourmet wine vendors will be offering tastings. Check out their site at www.valleyviewcasino.com.

* The Vintage, Farewell to the Swallows in San Juan Capistrano , has its 13th annual celebration on Sat. Oct. 17 from 6 to 10pm . It’s an Italian style party at the historic Mission . Fine food and wine, casino tables for play fun and live entertainment add up to the best time in SOCAL. Produced by the San Juan Capistrano Chamber of Commerce. For tickets and information contact the chamber at 949-493-4700.

Long-Awaited ’04 Italian Brunellos Debut

by Frank Mangio
Rich, powerful, elegant and assertive are just a few of the descriptions of praise for the newly released 2004 Brunellos, considered to be the elite wines from Tuscany.

Brunellos are not frou frou frivolous wines. They are the quintessential symbol of the excellence of Italian winemaking. A clone of the Sangiovese grape, they are carefully cultivated in small batches, barreled for four years, then a year in bottle before being released for consumption. Some 25% of the Brunellos produced are sent to America where an eager market will pay a premium to taste this lush king of Italian style and culture. Prices range from $40. up to $150. a bottle.

Many of the smart winemakers in and around the birthing ground, Montalcino, did not produce a Brunello in 2002 and 2003 due to unacceptable weather conditions, so the ’04 has pent up demand, and it does not disappoint. Wineries like Gaja, Banfi, Casanovi di Neri, Altesino, Frescobaldi rave about this vintage. “The 2004 season was exceptional with excellent conditions, and compares favorably with the wonderful 2001 wines,” stated Giacomo Neri. “The growing season in 2003 was just too hot and lacked structure and backbone; and the 2002 was a washout with terrible rains especially at harvest. Most of this ’04 season was much easier on the grapes under sunny, warm skies and cooler temperatures.”

That’s Italy for you. Winemakers have to be flexible and possess a touch of genius to produce remarkable wines with Italy’s weather swings.

Another winemaker, Andrea Cortonesi of Ucceliera, was quoted in Wine Spectator as saying of the ‘04’s “these Brunellos are much richer and better for aging than the 2001’s. There will be great surprises.” What he is saying refers to the cellaring of the ‘04’s, up to 12 years, to maximize its wealth of flavors.

Half-way around the world, Peder and Julie Norby lead remarkable careers in North San Diego County. He is a marketing specialist guiding the future of retail districts in Encinitas. She is a school principal in Solana Beach. But if you ask them what they really enjoy out of life, they would tell you it is make Brunello wine on their residential property in Carlsbad. Some 60 neighbors and friends gathered recently at the Norby home, and after he oriented the group, all dug into grape picking, crushing, bottling and tasting.

“We grow mostly Brunello grapes,” said Norby. “The soil and climate are perfectly aligned to Tuscany and Montalcino. We are pleased with our 2nd year harvest and after we are through picking today, we will taste the results of our first harvest (which I also worked at). It should get better as the vines age to a sweet spot of 7 or more years.”


Taste of Wine columnist Frank Mangio picks Brunello Grapes at the Carlsbad home vineyard of Peder and Julie Norby.

Norby should be able to get close to 80 gallons of wine and 400 bottles from this years’ harvest. Like pieces to an intricate puzzle, he has invested in small-scale but effective equipment which precisely processes the grapes to bottle. “To get delicious tasting wine, you must be patient and know winemaking,” he said. “This is such a satisfying, productive thing to do with a piece of property. It sure beats filling a bag every week with grass clippings.” I’ll drink to that.


Wine Bytes
• Vinz Wine Bar downtown Escondido is new and presents outdoor live entertainment every Sat. through Oct. 31, from 6 to 8:30pm. Dinner reservations accepted by calling 760-743-8466.

• The Catamaran Resort Hotel on Mission Bay San Diego hosts a Wine Festival Sat. Sept. 26 from 1 to 4pm. It benefits Big Brothers and Sisters charity. 60 wineries are expected including Napa, Sonoma, Washington, and Oregon. Food Pairings include gourmet cheeses. Entrance fee is $55. in advance,$60. at the door. Full details at www.missionbaywinefestival.com. Or call 858-488-1081.

• Thurs. Oct. 1 is a great time to be in Carmel as their annual wine event happens from 6 to 10pm. 30 restaurants and 20 wineries participate at the Carmel Mission. Call 831-624-2522 for more.

• Vino 100 in San Marcos goes Around the World for their wine tasting on Fri. Oct. 2 from 5 to 9pm. $15. pp gets you the opportunity to compare a world of wine. Call 760-591-9113.

• Four North County wineries have partnered for a Fall Barrel Tasting with the winemakers in attendance, Sat. Oct. 3 from 10 to 5pm at each of the wineries: Belle Marie, Bernardo, Cordiano and Deer Park. Passports are being pre-sold for $35. at each of the wineries and are good for all wineries that day. Contact Jeff at Belle Marie for details: 760-796-7557.

• Belle Marie in Escondido also has its next Winemaker’s Dinner on Sat. Oct. 10. Special French menu is planned, paired with the winery’s French style wines. For more, again contact Jeff at 760-796-7557.

Raise a Glass of Wine and Toast

Wine has many benefits and serves us in so many ways. The custom of wine at special occasions goes back thousands of years. It rightly takes on a spiritual dimension as people celebrate their lives.

No finer example of this is the raising of a glass to the assembled and a toasting a birthday, anniversary or a simple gathering of friends.

Here’s a bit of trivia for you. The term “toast” comes from an ancient practice of dropping a piece of burnt bread into wine in order to ensure a more palatable product.

For a flourish and to stay true to the ritual, try these tips next time you to toast with lovely glass of wine:

To gain the attention of the group, rise to the occasion before toasting. Maintain eye contact and speak from the heart about how great it is to be together; please, no long-winded speeches from cue cards. Raise the glass to about eye-level and shift your eye contact to all involved in the toasting. After the message and all glasses clink, the toaster or the host can take the first sip.

You need not wait for a special occasion to enjoy a sincere toast. Whether it’s two or twenty two and you are gathered with wine, raise your glass and celebrate life.

SALUTE!

A Night at the Bistro
Beringer Winery of Napa and Bistro West in Carlsbad combined for a well-attended, well-orchestrated and enjoyed wine event recently. Lots of upbeat wine lovers cheered on the wine selections and menu, put together by General Manager Paul Fitzgerald, Executive Chef Jason Connolly and Cindy Bock of Foster’s, the Beringer rep.

Beringer is a pioneer winery founded in Napa in 1876 by a distinguished German winemaker, Jacob Beringer. He found the volcanic soil of Napa to be excellent for growing wine grapes. Even today, Beringer is the oldest operating winery and none is more respected. My two picks for the evening were blends: the ’07 Alluvium Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay and Viognier) and the ’06 Alluvium Red Meritage (Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec and Cab Franc.)

Alluvium refers to the soil structure which is distinctly mineralized and shows itself in these two fine wine choices. Bistro West has a “New Deal” currently offered where the entire check is discounted 15%, for dinners ordered 7 days a week from 3:30 to 5:30. Reservations suggested at 760-930-8008.

Wine Bytes

* Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp District San Diego presents Red Blends Fri. Sept. 11 from 4 to 8:30pm & Sat. Sept 12 from 2 to 8:30pm for $15. pp. Call 619-236-0005 for details.

* Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas hosts Lobsterfest 2009 Sat. Sept. 19 from 6 to 9pm . It’s an East Coast style menu with fresh Maine Lobster. 6 different wines will be paired with the food. $85. ea. RSVP at 760-479-2500.

* Party Latin style at San Antonio Winery downtown Los Angeles with ethnic foods and wine, Sun. Sept. 20 from 2 to 5pm. Many South American countries’ native dishes will be tasted. Live music. $50. fee. Find out more at 323-223-1401.

* Wine Styles in Encinitas invites you to dine in style Sat. Sept. 26 from 7 to 9pm. Four course special menu limited to 16 guests. French style wines tasted. $80. pp. Details at 760-633-0057.

* FLIGHT Restaurant and Wine Bar in Del Mar now has ½ price wine nights every Wed. and wine flight nights every Thurs. night at 7pm . Five wines and culinary creations $25. ea. Get more info at 858-847-0490.