What’s New in the Wine World

by Frank Mangio

The wine world is alive and well, thank you.

Sure, wines are retailing for a lot less than before the recession and wine shops and markets are pushing one day and blowout sales like they’re just about to go out of business (and some have). I view it all as a customer once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to buy great wines at low prices.

So let’s see what wines have touched my palate recently and made a lasting impression:

Rodney Strong Cabernet, Sonoma CA, 2006. $12.
Rodney Strong is back with a solid lineup of value wines, topped by this rich Cab at an attractive price. The warmer regions of Sonoma reward with a distinctly classic vintage. Vibrant aromas of cherry and spicy flavors. Another remarkable wine from the popular winemaker Rick Sayre.

Falkner Winery Meritage, Temecula Ca, 2005. $39.95. A Bordeaux style of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc. Low, meticulous production insures a long, round finish. Elegant flavors.

Las Rocas Garnacha, San Alejandro, Spain. 2005. $9. Spanish wines are big winners these days with unique notes of cola, coffee and grapes that are upfront. Sister to the French Rhone Valley ’s Granache varietal.


2010’s top find to date is Rodney Strong’s 2006 Sonoma Cabernet.

Chamisal Vineyards Chardonnay, Edna Valley CA, 2007. $24. Holds the complexity of this traditionally favorite varietal, yet springs new life into the Chardonnay footprint. More tropical than most. Estate bottled.

Christian Moueix Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux France, 2005. $23. A truly fine wine from the finest European harvest in this decade. A delicious marriage of 70% Merlot and 30% Cab Franc. Blackberry, plum and mocha with a spicy finish. Bordeaux is the largest of the fine wine districts in the world and this wine is a significant entry point.

SanTasti Classic, a palate cleansing beverage. 2008. A breakthrough new product that is water-based with light carbonation to “scrub the mouth.” Too often wines will conflict and the result is “palate burn.” SanTasti cleans the palate, allowing a more natural readiness for that next fine wine. The Wall Street Journal just recognized SanTasti as a new helpful approach to judging wine. Check it out at www.santasti.com.


Barbera: Italy’s Everyday Wine Secret

In that part of Italy that inspires poetic interpretations of the great wines Barolo and Barbaresco, there lies a humble grape that does it job day in and day out. Piedmont is a classic district, majestically rising from Italy ’s southern Alps.

The most revered grape is Nebbiolo with its muscular tannins that built the world’s thirst for the two esteemed, expensive B’s.

But wait, a third B cannot be ignored. It’s one of the few grapes in Italy that the wine takes its name from and that is Barbera.

Barbera is the wine most people in Piedmont drink with dinner and it’s the most widely planted. It’s an everyday easy-to-drink wine that doesn’t need to be aged to get peak flavor.

The grape’s acidity makes it superb as the wine for rustic, Italian-style cuisine. It ripens early and is less finicky than the Nebbiolo grape. You often see Barbera grown with Nebbiolo, providing the vineyard with a more stable cash crop to help smooth out income. Prices at the retail level tend to be similar to Chianti Classicos in the Tuscany region. The wine is ruby red and powerful to the taste. Most of the brands are Italian from villages like Alba, Monferrato and Nizzi to name a few.

In San Diego Country, try the 2007 Barbera from Witch Creek Winery in Carlsbad for $22.95 club price. Witch Creek also does a 2007 Tre Amici that is a blend of 50% Nebbiolo, 17% Petite Syrah and 33% Barbera that is delicious and is $21.25 club price. The 2008 Barbera should be released any day now. See www.witchcreekwinery.com. The phone is 760-720-7499.

Wine Bytes-Valentines Day Events
The Grand Del Mar has a four course dining experience at Amaya Sun. Feb. 14 from 5:30 to 10pm . Choices of top menu items from Executive Chef Camron Woods. $110. pp. and $155. with wine pairings. RSVP at 858-314-2727. A lavish menu awaits diners at the upscale Addison , also 5:30 to 10pm . Price is $125.; with wine pairings $185. Call 858-314-1900.

Callaway Winery Temecula has a romantic wine cellar dinner on Sat. Feb. 13 from 6:30-9:30pm . Wine reception, appetizer and main menu paired with Callaway wines. $76.50 ea. Call 951-676-4001 for your table.

Pinnacle Restaurant at Falkner Winery Temecula celebrates with wine dinners on Sat. Feb. 13 starting at 7pm , and Sun. Feb. 14 beginning at 5:30pm . 30 minute Champagne reception for early arrivals. Choice of entrees. $79. pp. RSVP at 951-676-8231 ext 1.

Savory in Encinitas has a special Valentine’s weekend menu Sat. from 5pm and Sun. from 4pm. $47. ea. and $66. with matching wine. Reservations at 760-634-5556.

Thornton Winery Temecula presents a Romantic Rendevous Sun. Feb. 14 at 7pm . Three on-site locations to choose from: Champagne Caves , Vineyard View Room and Champagne Lounge. Perfectly paired wine and food. $85. Call 951-699-0099. for your place.

Orfila Winery in Escondido has a 50’s fun style event, Sun. Feb. 14 at 6pm. Diner-inspired eats and cool treats in the new Barrel Room. Not a sit-down dinner but a 50’s fun food and wine Juke Box sock hop. $85. pp. Call 800-868-9463.

Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo is hosting a Valentines event on Sat. Feb. 13 starting at 6pm . Champagne , wines, dinner menu, desserts and dance fun. Three different menus. $65./person and $125/pair. Slightly higher after Feb. 6. Call 858-487-1866 asap.

Temecula Valley Wines Rule Steakhouse Selections

by Frank Mangio
The Temecula wine stars dominate a galaxy of wine selections at one of the really flavorful steakhouses in Southern California , Vail Ranch Steakhouse in Temecula. Only prime wines would be able to match up with a beef dining room like Vail Ranch, one of the very few locations that offer Dry Aged Prime Beef that is processed at the restaurant.

“We have thousands of steaks in a temperature controlled locker just inside the main entrance,” owner Ron Walton told me. “Customers come through the front door and immediately they are attracted by the big bay window showing Angus USDA Prime steaks in a 28 day aging before being served. It dates back to the traditional preparation of top quality beef, that brings out the concentrated flavor of the steak,” he said.


George Kapetsonis is the Executive Chef at Vail Ranch Steakhouse, featuring Dry Aged Steaks.

Temperatures usually range from 36 degrees to freezing, with humidity at 85 degrees to reduce water loss. Maximum juices are locked in place to make sure that flavor is enhanced and the steak is tenderized. The dry aging process takes special care and supervision by someone who is part butcher and part menu chef. At Vail Ranch that responsibility is on the broad shoulders of George Kapetsonis. He recommends the Bone-in Filet Mignon, a rare menu item of unusual flavor.

I chose the T-Bone Steak, another menu selection not normally seen on most steakhouse menus. It was set in Au Gratin potatoes, seasonal vegetables and horseradish butter. A delicious appetizer, the Beef Bruschetta, consisted of sautéed beef tenderloin, herb and garlic, cherry tomatoes and blue cheese. Walton reminded me that “the economy told us to diversify with not just high-end steaks. We have 20 items on the menu for under $20. These are complete meals.”

Back to the wines, which are predominately Temecula Valley and are equally whites and reds. “We are a big supporter of Temecula Wines,” he stated. “In addition to 15 wines by the glass, we offer 19 choices of local wines.”

I had the ’05 Palumbo Family Vineyards Cab Franc, a nice pairing to the dry aged steaks on the menu.

Vail Ranch also offers live music in the casual lounge, lunch and a Sunday Brunch. Phone is 951-694-1475. See more at www.vailranchsteakhouse.com.

Plan a Super Bowl Wine Party
I know tradition holds that Super Bowl parties should be long-neck beer, plenty of chips and salsa, and burgers on the BBQ. Try something different, contemporary and more appealing with wine, cheese, rustic cold cuts and fresh-baked breads.

A crisp Sauvignon Blanc, an Argentine Malbec, a regal California Cabernet, a Washington Syrah and a traditional Chianti Classico from Tuscany would be sure to attract a “super” guest list. Top it off with a Portuguese Port with desserts and you have scored more than the winning team.

Here’s a rule-of-thumb on how many bottles to have on hand. One normal size 750 ml bottle contains 25.4 ounces of wine. This should be enough to serve 5 glasses of wine. Calculate 3 glasses of wine average per guest for 2 to 3 hours of partying. Multiply the number of guests by the number of glasses per person and divide by 5, and you will come up with the number of bottles needed. Say you’re having 20 guests, you will then need 12 bottles.

Always provide plenty of non–alcoholic drinks as optional choices.

Wine Bytes
§ Pechanga Casino in Temecula presents a chocolate and wine event Fri. Jan. 29, 7 to 10pm . Over 30 wineries will participate, including many from Temecula Wine Country. Call 877-711-2946 for details.

§ “Exploring Wine” is the first class in the current series certificate programs at San Diego State University . It starts Tues. Feb. 9 from 6 to 9pm on campus. Contact Rhonda Beard at 619-594-6924 or e-mail her at rbeard@mail.sdsu.edu.

§ The Museum of Photographic Arts in Balboa Park San Diego is staging a Fine and Rare Wine Tasting at a private residence Sat. Feb. 20 from 4 to 6:30pm . These are the world’s highest rated wines and are at their prime. Contact Sue George with an RSVP at 619-238-7559 x 202.

§ A premier Southern California winery, the new Lorimar Winery, has just opened a trendy tasting room in Old Town Temecula, prior to its Tuscan-style winery location. Well known winemaker Mike Tingley will make the wines. Learn more at 951-270-5177.

Wine Weekend and New San Diego Wine Bar

By Janene Roberts

Now that the holidays are behind us, it's time to look at how we'll spend the new year. What are your wine tasting plans? If you've read my book Wine Tasting in Southern California & Beyond, I advocate sticking close to home when you're traveling to wineries. And, with so many wine enthusiasts growing grapes and creating wines, it's not hard to find a winery near you. What's fun, too, is getting to know the local winemakers. So, one of my wine focuses for the new year is to create closer relationships with smaller groups of people. I'm excited about creating wine and wellness weekends where a small group will spend the weekend eating great food, drinking great wines and getting to know ourselves better. The first one will take place in Julian, California in April. I'll write more details as the weekend gets formed.

For you readers in San Diego, there's a new wine bar and cheese shop that I'm looking forward to trying. Dolce Pane E Vino. I've tried to get an interview with their chef but it seems he's being hounded by the media. It's located near Fairbanks Ranch in Rancho Santa Fe in the Del Rayo Center at 16081 San Dieguito Road, Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067 (858) 832-1518. They're open until 11 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and until midnight on Friday and Saturdays which is a relief for us who live in the area and get chased out of restaurants by 8 p.m. Prices are reasonable considering the environment it's located in. On their website, www.dolcepaneevino.com, the sample menu items include an Umbrella lentil bean salad with baby artichokes, shaved onions and herb vinaigrette, Crispy fingerling potatoes, smoked bacon, panna acida, scallions, shaved white truffles antipasti and Local mushrooms, goat cheese aged balsamic brushchetta. Wines by the glass include a $7 2008 Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and a $9 2007 Fort Ross Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.

Storing Wine for the Right Time to Taste

by Frank Mangio
“No wine before its time” is a truthful quote that has lived through the ages and has served wine lovers well in their quest for vintage-flavored wines. Certainly there are many professional storage companies out there that would be happy to store your best cases of cab for a hefty price, but I will pass on that and instead concentrate on home cellaring and storage.

First, here’s why you need to wait for the right time, especially for reds with strong bodies like: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Malbec, Merlot and a countless array of blends. They need time to mature. Tannins need to soften and mix into the harmony of tastes provided by the fruit, sugar and alcohol.

Whether it be a small rack on the floor of the dining room, a temperature-controlled cooler that holds 20 to 200, or a room with hundreds of precisely crafted racks with a tasting table, some rules apply for all.

However many bottles are in your collection and whatever the quality and value, keep a record of the date of purchase, cost of each bottle and where it was purchased. I always rank each wine with a simple but effective 1 to 5 (bad to excellent ) ranking, adding to my core list of wines that I love.

Store wine on its side. That way the cork does not dry out (assuming it has a cork top.)

Keep wine at a consistent temperature, ideally about 55 degrees when storing, but don’t be concerned if it is “room temperature” ( 72 degrees). What matters is the temperature is virtually the same day to day.

Keep your wine out of direct sun which can push up the temperature especially in an “afternoon” setting. The stages of maturity are accelerated and are rushed through to a sour state, turning it into cooking wine.

The final rule is really meant for breaking and is the most controversial. When is a wine that’s been stored ready to drink? Wine lovers can debate this for hours. I have let more than a few wines sit too long, only to open them and shriek in disgust at the sour, vinegar-like taste.

Most red wines start out with a tight berry-like flavor, then over the years become velvety soft and more complex to the taste. It’s like some magical mystery moment when the wine becomes perfectly balanced. I personally gauge that moment as five years after the vintage or harvest year on the label. But if you must…it’s not going to hurt if you drink it when you buy it.

So You Want to Own a Vineyard
Over the years I have talked to a ton of owner/operators of vineyards and wineries about their decision to get into the wine business as growers and bottlers. A good number came from families that had been doing this for generations and in far away European countries. More than a few have come from careers that have been as far from farming as you can get, especially the technology and engineering industries.

Most of the reaction I got from that subject is “I wanted to do something I love.” Then, when the day to day operations are brought up, I found that it is a consuming and expensive love.

Recently the Wall Street Journal found a couple who were willing to lay it out for readers. They have a 38 acre tract near Santa Barbara that they bought in 2004 for 1.5 million, including a tiny “fixer upper” house. When they planted their vines, they soon found out that capital improvements on things like a well for irrigation sopped up many more hundreds of thousands of dollars. By their account, maintaining the vineyard takes upwards of $8,000. an acre annually.

The typical yield of grapes is about 2 to 4 tons per acre, which they can sell for about $4,000. per ton to neighboring wineries. They plant mostly Pinot Noir which is in high demand, as long as the harvest is kind to them. Unfortunately, the ’08 harvest was plagued by frost early on and almost wiped out their crop. They only harvested 3 ½ tons total. In this business, as small operators, they have to wait until somebody else comes along that wants to “do something I love,” and buys them out at a handsome profit. In the meantime, they don’t drop their day jobs.

Wine Bytes
Bacchus Wine Market & Tasting Room downtown San Diego has an Italian Wine Tasting, Fri. Jan. 22 from 4 to 8:30pm . You will be tasting Montepulciano, Gargenaga and other lesser known varietals. Cost is $15. Call 619-236-0005.

Vino 100 in San Marcos presents its Blind Tasting fun on Fri. and Sat. Jan. 22 and 23 from 5 to 9pm . Fee is $10. pp. Details at 760-591-9113.

Wilson Creek in Temecula Wine Country is hosting a Slow Foods Charity Dinner Sat. Jan. 23 from 6 to 8pm . Food is local and sustainable from 5 wineries. $125. ea. RSVP at 951-296-7427.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has a special Women of Bordeaux Wine Dinner on Thurs. Jan . 28 at the Fairbanks Ranch Country Club, highlighting the exceptional 2006 vintage of French wines. Five women winemakers will appear. Get pricing and time by calling 760-479-2500.

Dress for Your Next Wine Event! (Our January Featured Business of the Month.)

Restaurant Week Fires Up Starting Jan. 17

by Frank Mangio
This month, some 200 restaurants in San Diego County cooperate in multi course meals of their best specialties at prices far less than the usual menu numbers, in a “Restaurant Week” event January 17 to 22. This was kicked off last year with great success. Tables filled up so fast, the participating restaurants repeated it later in the year.

Jim Barrasso, the affable owner of Firefly Grill and Winebar on El Camino Real in Encinitas loves this promotion. “We get an opportunity to get a lot of new customers through the door at a price point that is very attractive. Once they have one of our personally prepared entrees, we have a customer that will come back,” he said. It worked so well for Barrasso last year, that this year he is extending the date.

At Firefly, Restaurant Week is January 17 to 31,.with a choice of entrée to include: Monkfish Picatta, Chili Rubbed Skirtsteak or a Chicken Medley. Appetizer and dessert are included, all for $30. Carefully chosen wines are suggested for each menu item and wine pairings are packaged for a nominal extra charge.
Firefly Grill & Winebar owner Jim Barrasso with Executive Chef Aaron Dailey at a recent Caymus Vineyard Wine Dinner.

Firefly is always the innovator with its special WeekendTasting Menu, an exciting four course prix fixe offering that changes every weekend. Optional wine packages accent each course. Barrasso and Executive Chef Aaron Dailey personally craft each wine to a menu item that weaves in beautifully with the food. A recent wine list started with a Monterey Chardonnay, moved into a Pinot Noir for the fish course, continued with a Cabernet for the beef and climaxed with a 10 year old Tawny Port from Portugal to enhance the Almond Sponge Cake. Truly a wine lover’s delight!

Late last year, Firefly hosted a Caymus Napa Valley Wine Dinner that saw Chef Aaron do a Salmon Roulade that paired with a Caymus ’07 Cab. The main course was a Roasted Lamb Loin capped with the Caymus “Special Selection” ’07 Cab that made my Top Ten Tastes for 2009. Find out more about Restaurant Week by accessing www.sandiegorestaurantweek.com, and check out what else is new with Firefly at www.fireflygrillandwinebar.com.

The Millennial Market for Wine
Consumers 21 to 30 years old are a huge force in moving products these days. Traditional media has lost this generation to such new-age media as Twitter, Facebook and text messaging. This has not fallen through the cracks for vineyards, wineries, wine shops and special events.

In Paso Robles Wine Country, their association has created CRAVE, a marketing strategy to educate this vast market, estimated to be 40 million. This market comprises about 19% of the wine buying public as we speak. Upbeat, friendly, to-the-point information at specially crafted events, focused on college towns, have paid off for Paso. “Word-of-mouth” has taken on a new meaning with this millennial generation of networkers that are connected socially every minute of the day.

International products have shifted important dollars over to “social media” on the internet for easy-to-prove documented exposure to this audience. Twitter, a social media site was last reported to be “home” to some 30 million registered users and is growing by millions per month.

Wine Bytes
* Pinot Days comes to Los Angeles, an all Pinot Noir Grand Tasting and an important event for this varietal, Thurs. Jan. 14 thru Sun. Jan. 17. The Sunday show is public and at the Barker Hangar in Santa Monica from 1 to 5pm. For ticket info, access www.pinotdays.com.

* A Flora Springs Vineyard Wine Dinner is being presented by West Steak, Seafood and Spirits in Carlsbad, Mon. Jan. 18 from 6:30 to 9:30pm. This premier winery will have its owner, John Komes in attendance. Five delicious courses for $75. pp. RSVP at 760-930-9100.

* The Wine Loft at the Forum in Carlsbad is kicking off this year’s $10. Tuesdays all this month, 5 to 7pm. Your choice of any four wines off the tasting list for just $10. Call 760-944-1412 for details.

* La Costa Wine Company has a wine/cheese pairing on Fri. Jan. 22 from 5 to 8pm for $20. ea. 4 half glasses of wine with a perfect cheese pairing. The shop now features cheeses for sale from around the world. Call 760-431-8455.

* Wine Steals in San Diego’s Hillcrest, Point Loma and in Cardiff, has an exclusive on its wine of the month, the 2006 Tolosa Pinot Noir from the Edna Valley, California. Price is just 19.99. In Cardiff the number is 760-230-2657.

A Sip Down Silverado Trail (Napa Wine Adventure)

By J.T. Meadows

When in Napa, most sippers - those in search of crushed palate-pleasing drinkable grapes - take the typical route of that most traveled in the Napa Valley, Highway 29. However, if you are looking for a “road less traveled”, look to the east… The Silverado Trail… Aka… The Staggs Leap District.

Silverado Trail runs along the east side of “Napa” and stretches a few dozen miles along winding hills and quick S turns, which could require non-wine-buzzed jolt reactions. Along the “trail”, you will find some big names like Mumm, Duckhorn/Paradux, Joseph Phelps, Sterling Vineyards, and many more to boot. However, you will also find some of the most hidden gems of the Napa Valley. These are the small family run vineyards that you’re not going to find at your local Safeway, Vintage Wine Shop, nor featured on the wine list at the Northern-Nosed chop house. A prearranged appointment will likely be needed, but it could just be an “I’m down the street at ‘_____’ and I would like to come by” phone call away.
Tom Jinks (left) of Robinson Family Vineyards.

My wife and I didn’t have nearly enough time to stop at every “gem”, but the ones we did stop at made this trip to Napa more than worth it. The Silverado Trail has an almost Mendocino/Anderson Valley feeling to it. Small, friendly, quiet and welcoming.

First stop, Robinson Family Vineyards at 5880 Silverado Trail. There are not enough words – at least available in this article and the reason why I will be putting together a completely separate article about Robinson Family Vineyards - to describe the insanely awesome experience that can be had at the Robinson Family Vineyard. When we arrive at Robinson we were greeted by one of the proprietors, Tom Jinks, with the warmest of welcomes. After the huge smile, handshake and another smile, you will be escorted into the converted garage tasting room, where you will enter a world that truly exemplifies the family craft of wine enthusiasm. Old wine barrels that have been cut in half and made into t-shirt racks by Susie Robinson-Jinks, Champaign racks covered with glass and made into the tasting bar, and pictures of family, including their many blonde-haired grandchildren.

Robinson only produces 700-1000 cases of wine per season. Rest assured, every bottle encompasses the pride and joy of all that is valued on the Silverado Trail. The Robinson Family has a direct hand in the making of every bottle of wine that dons the Robinson Family Vineyards label. If you are lucky enough to be at the right place, at the right time, you could be fortunate enough to enjoy a fresh made pizza from the brick oven set atop of the wine cave built by Tom’s hands.

Tom summed up his process of making the Robinson wines in a perfect manner, stating that “we just take the fruit we have and try not to screw it up”.

This Stagg’s Leap District vineyard is situated on 80 acres of hillside, but has only seven acres of planted vines. They also have a vineyard down in the Coombsville area, Southeast of Napa. This is where the Robinson daughters - Kim, Carrie and Robin - pick for their label, Great Legs.

I’m far from an expert, but I can honestly say that I did not try a bad wine here. A few must-tries here are the ’06 RFV Cabernet Franc, ’06 RFV Malbec and the ’05 Great Legs Red Wine (This is not your average table wine).

To set up your tasting at RFV: http://www.robinsonfamilyvineyards.com/contact.html

Next, we head up the trail to Baldacci Family Vineyards, located at 6236 Silverado Trail. Here, we were warmly welcomed by Michael, while pulling a service cart from somewhere I’m not sure of, but he assured us we would be welcomed in the tasting room by “Fran”. Without failure we were greeted in the tasting room, by Fran Leach, and welcomed into a small room that would remind you of a bar in your neighbors’ house. There were only two other people tasting, and before long, we had the tasting room to ourselves.

The Baldacci Family Vineyard is owned and operated by Tom & Brenda Baldacci. Here you will also find pictures of the family, including their four sons that will one day, “after finishing college” Fran states, will take over the family business.

Baldacci specializes primarily in full-bodied reds. They have some white wines, but because of the past droughts, they do not have enough to sell or have in the tasting room.

Fran started us with their ’07 Elizabeth Pinot. This “Fruit-Forward” Pinot had a light color, but an awesome full-bodied taste. And, with a price point of only $35, this is certainly a Pinot that could impress your hoity-toity friends, while not breaking the bank.

We then tasted, and purchased, the ’06 IV Sons Cabernet. This is labeled after the Four Sons of the Baldacci Family. It has 97% Cabernet and only 3% Cabernet Franc. The Baldacci’s call this Cab their “Baby Baldacci”. However, there is nothing “baby” about it. IV Sons is not an overly bold Cabernet, but it packs a full-mouthed (or full-bodied, if you want to get “technical”) punch that will leave you wanting more… much more.

The Baldacci tasting was finished off with the ’06 Brenda’s Vineyard Cabernet. I may spell this backwards, but WOW!!! This was an insanely “mouth-watering” Cabernet with a exploding taste that made you want to dip a Rib-eye in it.

With a recommendation from Fran, and just a little dog-leg north on the Silverado Trail, we stopped off at GooseCross. You will definitely want to MapQuest this one. It’s located at 1119 State Lane. After a couple of turns, and a near miss with a guy on a four-wheeler, we pulled into a quaint rustic building with a farmhouse look to it… A farmhouse with a dozen bicycles parked out in front of it.

You are greeted at Goosecross by a sign amply reading “tasting room” with an arrow pointing through six large steel barrels. Pass through here and enter into a room filled with huge smiles that are warmly covered in Patagonia vests.

Troy Cary – Director of Hospitality – cleared a spot, previously occupied by cycling winos on a Silverado Trail bike tour, and we elbowed up to the tasting bar.

Our first taste was the ’07 Chardonnay. Troy referred to this as their “signature” wine. I’m not the biggest of white fans, but the tasting pour couldn’t have been big enough… meaning, I definitely enjoyed it. Our next two tastings were, for lack of better words, Frickin’ De-Lish-Ous!!! The ’06 Merlot – 100% Merlot from a single vineyard -, and the ’06 Syrah, are a must-try.

Oh, and there is another eye-catching, jaw-dropping, mouth-watering shelf adornment that you have to check out when you stop by GooseCross. Take a full bottle of Merlot or Estate Cabernet… your choice… and, a ½ pound of Napa chocolate. Now, dip the bottle of wine in the chocolate. That’s Right, I said DIP THE BOTTLE OF WINE IN THE CHOCOLATE!!! It looks like a decoration, but this is a fully functional/edible chocolate casing for your outstanding bottle of wine. Pop the cork, snap off a piece of chocolate, and **POOOF** you’re smack dab in the middle of a grown-up version of Willy Wonka and Chocolate Factory.GooseCross is owned/operated by college roommates, Jeff Gorsuch and David Topper. With an obvious business/marketing savvy between the two of them, they have helped to expand the growth of this vineyard since its inception back in 1978. Troy said that 65% of their wine is sold via their Wine Club. And, there is certainly a reason, outside of migrational obligation, for vino seekers to flock to GooseCross.

These are only a few sips along the Silverado Trail and I’m certain there are many other hidden “gems” along the way. However, if you plan on making your way to Napa Valley, be sure to sip over to the Silverado Trail and find a “Grape Escape” from the norm.

The Village of Dreams in Temecula Wine Country

by Frank Mangio
A drive along the De Portola Trail in Temecula Wine Country may as well be a winding journey through the vineyards of Bordeaux France. The peaceful easy feeling at the sight of rolling hills and rural beauty is the best therapy for a tough day at the office. And so it was when I turned into the last vineyard and winery on the trail, Leonesse Cellars, the “Village of Dreams.”

Leonesse was founded by owners Mike Rennie and Gary Winder in 2003 as the fulfillment of a lifelong dream of producing world class wines, mostly in the Bordeaux style of red blends. Together they had 50 years of agriculture and grape-growing experience in the Temecula Valley.

The wine world is taking notice of this immaculately groomed winery. In ’09, Leonesse was rewarded with high points and awards for its 2005 Cabernet Franc/Merlot which bore the mark of perfectly balanced tannins and fruity body. The 2006 Melange de Reves and 2004 premium “Vineyard Selection” Series Syrah and Merlot also took bows for their greatness.

My host was Joel Reese, the charming, dynamic Host and Touring Manager, who came to Leonesse from a music career in Tennessee a year and a half ago. “Wine is such a passionate way of life,” he enthused. “I love creating tastings and events for vistors. A lot of what I do I have picked up from your Taste of Wine columns where I learn how big a world the wine experience is. I want to broaden the appeal of the Leonesse wines.”

“We are highly focused on the Rhone style of wines and are offering some wonderful Syrahs. Our 2006, both the Vineyard Selection and the Signature Selection are doing well, as are the whites: Viognier and Rousanne,” he said.

We got around to tasting what I consider the premier grape for Leonesse, their Signature Selection Merlot. The 2006 is their latest release. Winemaker Tim Kramer, who has been with Leonesse since its beginnings, has taken grapes from the Palomar Mountain Los Caballos Vineyard and combined its Merlot grapes with a touch of Cabernet, Cab Franc and Petite Verdot, to present
a beautiful, visceral wine.

Joel Reese of Leonesse opens a bottle of Signature Selection Merlot.

It had been in French Oak barrels for 28 months after being “babied” through gentle crushing and fermentation to enhance the richness of the varietal.
“You get deep dark chocolate and cherry flavors. It’s like aroma therapy at the palate,” Reese said. Cost is $95 dollars, $71.25 for Leonesse club members.
This is just one of an exceptional lineup of Merlots and nice to see a winery do Merlot the right, regal way: aged to perfection in the finest oak barrels.
Access more about this winery at www.leonessecellars.com.

Farewell to Gaiter and Brecher, my Favorite Columnists
It is with a note of sadness that I read the last wine column from the Wall Street Journal’s Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher. After 579 columns and 12 years, they have signed off. They have been honest and adventurous in their approach to wine comment. In early 2005, when I first started reading their weekly wine columns, they raised eyebrows by declaring that wines from Temecula were quite good and recommended them. They complimented the winemakers for “following their hearts…they don’t (the wines) taste manipulated. They taste like fruit and earth.”

Since then, this husband and wife team has advised readers to “keep raising your personal bar for what is truly memorable, so that you’re always looking for the next wine that will touch your soul and make you feel like you’ve gone someplace you’ve never been before.” I recommend their book “Guide to Wine…How to Buy, Drink and Enjoy Wine.”

Wine Bytes
Il Fornaio in Del Mar kicks off their 2010 Festa Regionale with a wine dinner celebrating the Fruili-Venezie region of food and wine, now through Thurs. Jan. 17. Reservations at 1-888-ITALIAN.

A Banfi Wine Dinner is being planned at The Oceanaire downtown San Diego Thurs. Jan. 14 starting at 6:30pm. Their ’05 Sangiovese is highlighted. Cost is $85. Phone 619-858-2277.

Tesoro Winery in Old Town Temecula is kicking off events for wine and art lovers, beginning Thurs. Jan. 14 and every 2nd Thurs. from 7 to 9pm. It is FREE to the public. Call for more at 951-308-0000.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has a comprehensive Pinot Noir Tasting on Fri. Jan. 15 from 6 to 8pm. $20. pp. Call for names at 760-479-2500.

The 3rd Corner Wine Shop & Bistro in Encinitas presents a Walter Hansel Wine Dinner Tues. Jan 19 starting at 6pm. Cost is $70. ea. Details and RSVP at 760-942-2104.