Fizzy, Sweet & Sparkling Wines

by Frank Mangio
One of the missing links to my knowledge of wine has always been the array of before and after dinner champagnes, sparkling wines, ports, and grape-based exotic and vibrant drinks like Grappa,Vin Sante, Sherry and Vermouth.

Port is a beautifully sweet, powerful wine, mostly consumed after dinner and is especially delectable with chocolate. Its genetic home is Portugal but England embraced it as its own and some of the finest brands of port still come from the “mother country.”

The best Port grapes come from the Douro Valley in Northeast Portugal where a town, Oporto, gave it the name. The steep hillsides on both sides of the Douro make the vineyards some of the most challenging in the world. Roots have been known to go some 65 feet into the ground for stability and to survive the blazing hot summer days.

In California, Pedroncelli in Sonoma makes “Four Grapes” 2005 Vintage Port in the Dry Creek area. The most popular Portugese grapes are grown on the estate and aged 4 years before bottling, softening and maturing the wine.





“Four Grapes” Vintage Port from Pedroncelli Winery in Sonoma is a prime California Port, rewarded with a Best of Class in recent international competition.

Alcohol content is 19%, emphasizing ripe berries, caramel and toffee aromas that lead to warm spice, raspberry and cream soda on the palate. This is the ultimate Port value at $18. for a 500ml bottle. Look it up at www.pedroncelli.com.


Madeira comes from the island of the same name off the coast of Africa which is a Portugese colony. It was the wine of choice at the signing of the U.S. Declaration of Independence and considered the most prestigious after-dinner wine at the time. It is a fortified(small amount of Brandy), mostly white wine with a similar 19% alcohol content.

Not all sparkling wine can be called Champagne; only those from the region of Champagne France, made with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The method of production, “Methode Champenoise” can be used worldwide, but the Champagne French keep a lid on the brand. Other old world Sparkling Wines that are popular are in Italy: Prosecco and Moscato D’Asti. One of the most respected Champagnes is Dom Perignon. The 2002 which is available now is $149.99 in most retail stores. Fresh almonds and dried fruit capture the palate, along with intensely floral, perfumed jasmine that leads a tropical surge from the Chardonnay base. Some of the best domestic Sparkling Wines come from Oregon and California. Argyle from the Willamette Valley is refined and elegant in its 2000 vintage. ($60.) On the value side, Mumm Napa Valley is just $20. and V. Sattui Brut Napa Valley with ripe flavors of apple pie is just $22.

Just up the road in Temecula, the veteran Sparkling Wine maker, medal and award winner, Jon McPherson, is expanding his skills in this style of wine for South Coast Winery. Long known for his expertise in the “Methode Champenoise”style, he has now released a 2010 Pinot Grigio for sparkling wine. McPherson has long admired the Italian style of winemaking and this time looked to the Alto Adige district of Italy for this bright citrus and delicate apple taste. McPherson recommends it, not just for celebration, but paired to a seafood or chicken dinner.


New drink treats are coming out of South Coast Winery Resort & Spa: A Pinot Grigio Sparkling wine and a Grappa based menu of cocktails.

In South Coast’s Vineyard Rose Restaurant, mixed drinks are made with a grape-based Italian favorite called Grappa, made from the skin of the grape. Grappa has a uniquely different quality about it and no two grappas taste quite the same. Jacobi Poli was chosen as supplier, among the oldest in use today. Over 7 popular drinks are now woven with the popular Grappa., including Margarita and Bloody Mary. Learn more at www.wineresort.com.

Wine Bytes
Il Fornaio in Del Mar opens its 2011 Festa Regionale Series now to Sun. Jan . 16. The regional cuisine is the Friuli-Venezie with local Pastas, Secondi and Dolce. Wines of the regions are also featured. For reservations, call 1-888-ITALIAN.

Meritage Wine Market presents a World Cabernet Face-off Fri. Jan. 7 from 6 to 8pm. $20. fee. Call 760-479-2500 for winery names.

Bacchus Wine Market has its famous Blind Tasting Game, in the Gaslamp District of Downtown San Diego, Sat. Jan 8 from 2pm to 8:30pm. Cost is $15. They brown bag 8 wines and taste each. Prize for closest picks. RSVP at 619-236-0005.

Curds and Wine in Clairemont has a Winemaking Class Sat. Jan. 8 from 1 to 2pm. This is FREE to the public. Call 858-384-6566.

La Costa Wine Company and the Wine Smarties present a “Blind Taste Like a Pro” Seminar, Sat. Jan. 15 from 3 to 5pm. Cost is $40. ea. Taste 5 wines. RSVP at 619-955-8884.

Jazz Diva Coming to San Diego's Anthology in January

Vocalist/pianist Diane Schuur is as eclectic as she is brilliant. A longtime disciple of Dinah Washington and other legendary jazz singers of the ‘40s and ‘50s, Schuur has built a stellar career by embracing not only the jazz of her parents’ generation, but also the pop music of her own youth during the late 1950s and ‘60s. In a recording career that spans nearly three decades – and includes two Grammy Awards and three Grammy nominations – Schuur’s music has explored nearly every corner of the 20th century American musical landscape.
Taste of Wine TV executive producer Mike Bragg with Diane Schuur at a recent private concert hosted by legendary radio personality "Shotgun" Tom Kelly. (Photo by www.VirtualMarketingTeam.com.)

Born in Tacoma, Washington, in December 1953, Schuur was blind from birth. She grew up in nearby Auburn, Washington, where her father was a police captain. Nicknamed Deedles at a young age, Schuur discovered the world of jazz via her father, a piano player, and her mother, who kept a formidable collection of Duke Ellington and Dinah Washington records in the house.

She was still a toddler when she learned to sing the Dinah Washington signature song, “What a Difference a Day Makes.” Armed with the rare gift of perfect pitch, Schuur taught herself piano by ear and developed a rich, resonant vocal style early on, as evidenced in a recording of her first public performance at a Holiday Inn in Tacoma when she was ten years old. She received formal piano training at the Washington State School for the Blind, which she attended until age 11. By her early teens, she had amassed her own collection of Washington’s records and looked to the legendary vocalist as her primary inspiration.

Diane, a.k.a. "Deedles' will be performing January 12th, 2011 at the legendary Anthology, in San Diego's Little Italy. Learn all about this great performer of past and present jazz and pop tunes by going to www.DianeSchuur.com

Ten Wine Tastings for 2010

by Frank Mangio
After a long and winding road, visiting wineries, vineyards, wine shops, restaurants, resorts and wine events, at times I asked myself “are we there yet, have we found the ten best tastes for this year?” I hope not. Tomorrow may bring yet another lovely wine that matches the list below. I will keep up the hunt for bigger, better, luscious tasting prized wines.

As we go public with this list, wine lovers are getting more for their money and are seeking the highest value wines available as competition is keen with new wine shops offering ever more wines, events, wine bars and small-bites restaurant components. My ten include: two from Napa Valley, two from Sonoma, two from Italy, and one each from Monterey, Paso Robles, Washington and Spain.

I attended some 300 events, tasting over 3,000 wines from all over the world, documenting their taste characteristics, ranking them on my 1 to 5 value scale, and considering cost point vs. flavor. Prices vary from discount retailers to wine shops to web site “cart” prices, so it pays to compare. The ten are NOT ranked, but appear alphabetically. Web sites follow the wine descriptions for your further research.

Banfi Toscana Chianti Superiore, Tuscany, Italy, 2008. $11.
Seven thousand acres at the base of the fabled town of Montalcino plus legacy vineyards in South America and other districts of Italy, Banfi makes a statement with this select Sangiovese grape varietal at an inexpensive price. www.castellobanfi.com.

Cantina Zallagnina Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo, Italy, 2007. $11.
Comes from the younger vineyards of the Montepulciano district in eastern Tuscany. A splash of fruit flavor complements the gritty, earthy old world taste that accentuates with hard cheese and pasta. www.vivavino.com.

Chateau St. Michelle Dr. Loosen Eroica Riesling, Washington, 2008. $18.
Two of the world’s great makers of Riesling, Germany’s Dr. Loosen and Washington’s Chateau St. Michelle, make this bold and forward varietal, with tastes of mandarin orange and sweet lime. www.ste-michelle.com

Duckhorn “The Discussion” 6 Vineyard Blend, Napa Valley, 2006. $115.
An artful blend of varietals from 6 of Duckhorn’s vineyards. It includes 53% Cabernet, 28% Merlot, 14% Cab Franc, and 5% Petite Verdot. The winery’s highest acclaimed creation. Can you detect Truffle Cassis? www.duckhorn.com.

The highly successful RELM Wine Bar in Carlsbad discovered Triton, a Spanish Tempranillo, and one of Taste of Wine’s Top Ten.

Ferrari Carano “Tresor” Bordeaux Blend, Sonoma, 2007. $58.
Old world classic style with new world California flavor. A closer taste finds: 84%Cabernet, with Merlot, Malbec, Cab Franc and Petite Verdot. Tresor means Treasure in France. Indeed, it is. www.ferraricarano.com.

Fog Head Reserve Pinot Noir, Monterey, 2008. $16.
Strawberry/raspberry on the nose. Silky, soft tannins are a trait of fine Pinot. Sits at the Santa Lucia Highlands, positioned to take advantage of the fog pattern that settles at Fog Head’s doorstep. www.tastemonterey.com.

Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Napa Valley Carneros, 2008. $32.
Over 200 acres spread over the Valley to choose only the best of estate grapes. Six Frank family members plus two grandchildren pouring their hearts out . www.frankfamilyvineyards.com.

Justin “Justification” Bordeaux Blend, Paso Robles, 2008. $45.
Reduced yields pushed up quality. 10 months barrel time dressed up flavor for an unmatched Cab Franc/Merlot marriage. www.justinwine.com

Lewis Chardonnay, Russian River Valley Sonoma, 2008. $65.
A small-lot passion allows constant development with pruning at every stage, from bud break to veraison (fruit coloration) to harvest. Lewis barrel-stores their Chardonnay in French Oak for up to 15 months. www.lewiscellars.com.

Triton Tempranillo, Douro Valley, Spain. 2008. $24.
Named after the Roman God Neptune’s son Triton, who galloped along great seasides and rivers. The Douro River and its soil components play a large role in the sophisticated, elegant flavor of this Spanish creation, with elements of chocolate and delicate spices; a discovery of RELM, the dynamic wine shop in Carlsbad. www.ambassadorofwine.com

In Monterey Great Taste Comes with the Territory

by Frank Mangio

Romantic Monterey, a one-of-a-kind appellation, sweeps 90 miles down the coast from Cannery Row in the city, through Carmel by the Sea, Santa Cruz, Pebble Beach, the Carmel Valley, the rolling hills of Salinas Valley and the Santa Lucia Highlands.



There are nine officially designated appellations or AVA’s that have unique characteristics for remarkable flavor, found in bottles branded with the Monterey Wine Country signature. It had been many years since I walked on Monterey vineyard land. The occasion last month was the “Great Wine Escape,” an annual expo of some 50 of the 125 vineyards that dot the land. Over 30 tasting rooms were open daily, pouring their newest releases.

Monterey Bay and the Pacific Ocean, west of the highlands are the perfect formula for a long, leisurely ripening, with harvests that are some 60 days longer than most in California. Of the 41,000 acres of grapes produced, 17,000 are planted with Chardonnay, largest in the state. Next is Pinot Noir, some of the tastiest west of Burgundy. The area produces about 7,000 acres of Pinot and the winemakers are fiercely firm in their conviction that their Pinot is superior to any other on the west coast.

Major players who grow and bottle Pinot Noir include Hahn Estates in the Santa Lucia Highlands where the ’09 has just been released and they play the bagpipes at the harvest for good fortune. Talbott Winery’s Dan Karlsen is the expressive, self-described “former hippy” and a rabid believer in the excellence of Monterey Pinot Noir, calling it “the wine of kings.” He champions a “vineyard first” approach to winemaking “to obtain a vibrant cool climate appeal, that is all about flavor.” His ’08 Talbott Kali Hart has spicy blueberry and cherry notes with 9 months in French Oak.

Chalone is another Pinot Noir favorite of mine. Karlsen was their winemaker from 1998 to 2007, revitalizing their Pinot program. They have an AVA district named after the winery which sits east of the 101 and Soledad. Estancia is a well-known name that is situated in the Santa Lucia Highlands with a large property in Paso Robles. This property was formerly called Paul Masson in the early 60’s and like most behemoths, made just two kinds of wine: white and red. Estancia produces 850,000 cases with many supermarkets stocking this value wine. They now offer 12 varietals, from Sauvignon Blanc to a Reserve Meritage.

A Pinot Noir creating an emerging buzz is Fog Head and its ’08 release which blends grapes from several sites including the highlands of San Bernabe and Arroyo Seco. The maritime influence of seaside fog travels south through the valley and settles at Fog Head developing a slow maturation with concentrated flavors.

The name Galante goes back 6 generations. Jack Galante’s great grandfather was the founder of the town of Carmel. He later built the Pine Inn and Highlands Inn, still standing as iconic resorts. In 1969 Jack’s parents purchased a 700 acre cattle ranch in the nearby Carmel Valley.


Jack and Dawn Galante run Galante Carmel Tasting Room, and Galante Vineyards, with premium estate wines of 700 hillside acres in Carmel Valley.

Vineyards were planted in 1983,specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon. The Galante Vineyards and Winery came together as a cowboy themed winery in 1994, with premium estate wines. Today Jack and his wife Dawn operate 700 estate acres that range from 700 to 2,200 feet, making them one of the highest vineyards in Monterey County. The growing season is very long, grapes ripen slowly and the crop is thinned to two tons per acre for highest quality. No pesticides or herbicides are used. Cabernet is the traditional grape at Galante ( he makes 4 kinds), but his ’08 Olive Hill Petite Sirah is amazing in its accented texture and the ’07 Grand Champion with Malbec, Petite Sirah and Cabernet is rich and robust. And true to form, Jack can sell you a belt buckle with the same name.

Larger format bottles come with leather tooled labels and the wine club has “gang” members. Learn more about this blessed wine area by accessing the new web site at www.montereywines.org.

Wine Bytes

Holiday Wine Cellar is presenting The Grand Holiday Tasting Sat. Dec. 18 from 3 to 6pm. More than 100 wines are presented. $30. pp. RSPV at 760-745-1200.

Have a Newport Christmas with wines and a view of their boat parade at Wine Lab Sat. and Sun. Dec. 18 and 19 from 6:30 to 9:30pm, on Newport Harbor Orange County. 5 wines and lots of appetizers and artisan cheeses. $50. ea. Call 949-575-8466.

Try these recipes from Bravo’s Top Chefs

By Janene Roberts

I’ve enjoyed going to chef cooking demonstrations since picking up a cooking hobby back when I worked at my first ad agencies at the start of my career. Then, I’d try out Bon Appetit recipes from back issues I found in the library files at the agencies. The magazines would keep me occupied on nights after working late as I dreamed about an alternate life of being a hostess like the magazines so flawlessly demonstrated. I’d imagine presenting dinner parties to cool friends that I’d meet at poetry readings and art galleries if only I’d have time to get out to those events. I’d present magazine worthy dishes on Martha Stewart designed dining tables while still managing to look picture perfect after cooking all day.

In reality, what often happened was that when I finally did get around to having that dinner party, I’d still be in the process of the preparations when the guests arrived–hair in a ponytail and makeup haphazardly applied while the makeshift dining table I had put together was dressed with an off white table cloth I had purchased at Pick ‘n Save while still in college.

Although I often didn’t learn much at the demonstrations, being around like-minded people always felt good and the samples of the dishes they were preparing made me believe that in some way I was participating in the process.

The Savor The Flavor with Reality Chef Super Stars Brian Malarkey, Andrea Curto-Randazzo and Eli Kirshtein cooking demonstration put on by the San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival at Macy’s School of Cooking was similar to previous presentations I’ve been to. Recipes were placed in front of us, butter was sizzling in the pans and the chefs were cutting and sautéing as we looked on–mostly seeing the work projected through TVs. The hosts, all chef super stars from the reality show Top Chef, each prepared a recipe. Their presentation was part comedy show, part celebrating food preparation and part celebrity as the guests asked questions about their experience on Top Chef. Did I learn how to prepare the dishes as they were making them? No, but the learning basically is in the doing.

As one of the guests asked Brian Malarkey,

“What’s the number one thing as home chefs we can take away?”

He answered,

“Nothing, just don’t be scared to try stuff.”

So, I’ll take time to prepare my favorite dishes that they sampled and you can too because their agents approved my release of their recipes. So, here they are for you to make. Enjoy and don't be afraid to try!

BRIAN MALARKEY’S
SCREAMING SHRIMP N DIRTY GRITS
4/4 FRIENDS

Dirty Grits: (Brian explained that grits are basically hominy corn, the center of the kernel)

1 cup Grits-instant (5 minutes) follow the instructions on the box, 3 to 1, I thinks and then we get dirty
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/2 stick butter
1/2 cup cheddar cheese
1/4 cup bacon-diced and cooked
Salt and pepper

Keep stirring/whisking until the “grits” are glorious and DIRTY GOOD!

Screaming Shrimp:

1 pound shrimp (16/20) counts peeled, cleaned and butterflied
1/2 stick butter
2 Tbsp canola oil
4 each tomatoes roma-cubed
1/4 cup basil-sliced
1/4 cup garlic-chopped
1/4 cup lemon juice
2/3 Tbsp Cajun seasoning
Salt and pepper

In a large sauté pan over “high” heat add the oil and butter, add the shrimp and cook until about half way done, add the garlic and continue cooking until golden brown, adds the other ingredients and serve over the top of the “dirty good” grits, sit back and watch your friends lick their chops…

ANDREA CURTO-RANDAZZO
CHOCOLATE STOUT BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS
(10-12 tasting portions)

2 Lb piece trimmed & cut in half boneless beef short rib
1 roughly chopped large yellow onion
2 roughly chopped large carrots
2 roughly chopped celery
3 sliced shallots
10 garlic cloves
8 sprigs fresh thyme
2 (seeds removed) New Mexican dried chiles
1 cut in half orange
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 22 oz bottle of rouge chocolate stout
1 Quart veal stock
Salt and pepper, AP Flour and Blended Oil

Procedure:
Season short rib with salt and black pepper-dredge in flour. In a shallow sauce pan/rondeau with a little blended oil-med high heat-sear rib on all sides until dark golden color. Remove rib and set aside. Add onion, carrots, celery, shallots, garlic and chiles to rondeau, season with salt and pepper and reduce heat to med-low. Sweat vegetables until tender. Turn heat back to med-high, add tomato paste and cook while stirring for about a minute. Deglaze with stout. Add remaining ingredients and just enough veal stock to almost cover short ribs. Cover rondeau with lid or foil and place in 275 degree oven. Braise for 2-2 1/2 hours-or until ribs are fork tender. Remove ribs from rondeau and skim the fat off of the liquid. Strain through a chinoise and reserve braising liquid.

Note: I looked up the definition of a rondeau since I don’t have that appliance. It’s a wide, round shallow pot that lets steam disband quickly. It is usually stainless steel with two hoop handles. Also, my kitchen does not have a chinoise so I found out it’s a cone-shaped sieve with really fine mesh that is used to create a smooth texture.
Also, Andrea’s Beef Ribs were featured in her Roasted Shallot Gringa Tamale with Blackberry-Preserved Orange Gremolalta. Since preparing all three of those items seemed daunting to me while reading them–it’s Christmas season and I don’t have all day to make one dish–I’m suggesting we just try the Ribs and then I can share the other recipes next Christmas when we’ve all perfected the Rib recipe, no?

Recipes were sampled with Anglim Winery’s Grenache (Paso Robles 2006, a blend of 79% Grenache, 14% Syrah and 7% Counoise) and Best Barrel Blend (Paso Robles 2005, 45% Mourvedre, 45% Syrah, 10% Grenache).

Krupp Brothers Came/Conquered at Dolce

by Frank Mangio
In a spirit of constant discovery, the full house at Dolce Pane E Vino in Rancho Santa Fe sipped, laughed and buzzed about the collection of wines from the revered hills of Napa Valley, from Krupp Brothers. Krupp Brothers actually are brothers, Jan and Bart and 1800 feet above the valley floor, they harvest some of the most valuable land in the area.

It’s called Stagecoach Vineyards, with 600 acres of vines in 100 uniquely different blocks over the past 20 years. This is rugged terrain and any knowledgeable wine aficionado will get excited anticipating wines that build to a smooth boldness that will radiate its taste though front and middle palate, with a long, lingering finish.



Brian Thompson, Regional Sales Manager for Krupp Brothers Napa Valley wines, with Lauryn Weinstein of Dolce Pane E Vino in Rancho Santa Fe.


In speaking with Krupp Brothers Sales Manager Brian Thompson, he revealed that the Vineyard sells grapes to some 4 dozen of the leading wineries in Napa Valley and just 7% winds up in Krupp bottles. We agreed that by far the signature wine was the 2006 “The Advocate.” This wine is a blend of 42% Merlot, 32% Malbec, and 26% Petit Verdot, barreled 15 months in French Oak. Just 628 cases were produced, and the media treated it like I did, with a lot of respect. 92 points was the norm. It goes for a market price of $66. a bottle.

Steve Flowers, who came on board Dolce Pane E Vino recently from Vigilucci’s Italian restaurants, is on a mission to brand the wine bar/restaurant as an upscale, comfortable place to test drive great wines. If you like them, he has a retail component that he can sell them to you. You can drink them there, or take it home.

Other Krupp favorites were: the Black Bart Syrah 2007 and the Krupp Brothers Synchrony 2006. This one has 56% Cabernet Franc, 38% Cabernet, 5% Merlot and 2% Malbec. ( $60.)

Check out more on Krupp Brothers at www.kruppbrothers.com. Dolce has a Caymus Family Wine Dinner on Wed. Dec. 15. It will be

LocalWineEvents.Com for Wine Tastings
This web site is my favorite for finding out about wine events around the nation. It is the world’s largest calendar of food and wine places to go. Yet you can pick your locations and focus in on exactly where you are or where you are going. The information is free. And if you are an owner wanting to get your event out there, it is also a free posting, including a map on how to get to your event, with a link to your website. So, no sending of press releases or phoning in information. What a concept!

Eric Orange is the genius who has the site. He also includes wine information and columns that I have been featured on. Last I checked he had over 4 million events tickets that his service had sold to users. Here is his web site: www.localwineevents.com. For questions, call Eric at 610-647-4888 xt 2.


Wine Bytes
§ Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp district of San Diego has a 90 point wine event, Fri. Dec. 10 from 4 to 8:30pm. They promise to show you that not all highly rated wines cost big bucks. 7 of them will be poured. Fee is $20. Call 619-236-0005

§ Callaway Winery in Temecula presents a Babes in Toyland Holiday Sat. Dec. 11 from 6 to 9pm. Enjoy sparkling wine and appetizers, buffet dinner and Callaway’s best wines. Jazz musicians play seasonal favorites. Photos with Santa for the kids. $60. pp. Kids $30. RSVP at 951-676-4001.

§ Gondola Wine Tasting is on Saturday through the season at Loews Coronado. Next one is on Dec. 11, 6:30-8pm. Sommelier Kurt Kirschneman takes you on a wine flight of 6 varietals. Cost is $45. ea. Call 619-429-6317.

§ Orfila Vineyards and Winery now has Concerts in the Vines with local, talented musicians. Next is Sun. Dec. 12 starting at 6:30pm. $20. cost includes one Orfila wine. Bring blankets and low back chairs. Order tickets at 800-868-9463.

§ The great masters collection of Beaulieu Wines from George de Latour will be featured in a fine wine dinner at the Sky Room of La Valencia Hotel in La Jolla, Thurs. Dec. 16 from 6 to 10pm. This is a vertical wine pairing starting with the legendary 1976 vintage! Cost is $175. RSVP at 858-551-3765.

More from Temecula Wine Country

by Frank Mangio
Tesoro Winery Mediterranean Treasures
You might call them the new kids on the block but Buzz and Kimberly Olson grew up fast and now they are among the innovators of Temecula Valley winery owners. Their Tesoro Winery is really three attractions: the Old Town Tasting Room with new release treats and gifts for the holiday; the Club House & Urban Barrel Room, a private center where music and special events take place; and the crowing achievement, a vineyard/winery and bed and breakfast, still being realized in the middle of wine country with a spectacular view reminiscent of old Italy.

The new location will be known as Castellini di Tesoro which will allow up to 10 rooms for a Bed and Breakfast. The Olsons recently purchased the adjoining property, the well-known “Castle” which will be the new Tasting Room and Winery.

Veteran Temecula Winemaker, Etienne Cowper loves to work with smart, small, hands-on wineries that put the wines first. “We lack a distinct identity in Temecula,” he declared. “We must narrow our focus to Mediterranean varietals that suit our terroir. I make some blends that harmonize and gain interest in wines. I bring out the flavors with a longer season.”

Cowper believes in less intervention. “You can tweek a little bit and add a grape for synergy but I don’t believe in covering a wine with barrel manipulation,” he declared. At Tesoro, look for the 2006 Sangiovese, the 2006 Trinita Super Tuscan and 2007 Elio Doro Rhone Blend for great examples of this wine making style.

The Olsons have old friend and former NFL Rams star Vince Ferragamo coming in for a “Guys Night Out” event on Saturday December 4 at 6:30pm in the Club House and Barrel Room to benefit the Pure Aveda Ranch for Autism. It includes: BBQ dinner, barrel tasting, cigar selection, and highlights of Super Bowl XIV, Ferragamo’s big game. Price is $95. Call 951-308-0000. More at www.tesorowinery.com.

Leonesse Cellars Wins Over Rhone Valley Wines
The Temecula Creek Inn hosted a recent “Tale of Two Valleys” pitting Syrah from Leonesse Cellars in Temecula vs. Syrah from the Rhone Valley in a blind tasting. Leonesse was founded in 2003 by Mike Rennie and Gary Winder who had more than 50 years of agriculture and grape-growing experience in the valley. Their offerings are balanced, ripe and concentrated. Well, it was no contest. The Leonesse entries were the near-unanimous choice over the French entries. Temecula Creek Inn executive chef Salvatore Giuliano created pork and lamb dishes that brought out the best in depth and flavor for the Rhone and Temecula selections. For more understanding of Leonesse Cellars, see www.leonessecellars.com.

More Wines to Know
Last week we revealed Wine Spectator’s number 10 to 6 top ten wines. Here are the rest of the 10:
ü 5: Altamura, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Red, 2007. $85.
ü 4: Revana, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Red, 2007. $125.
ü 3: Peter Michael, Chardonnay, Sonoma Ma Belle-Fille, White 2008. $85.
ü 2: Two Hands, Shiraz, Barossa Valley Australia, Red 2008. $55.
ü 1: Saxum, Grenache-Mourvedre-Syrah Blend, Paso Robles, 2007. $67.

In the last two months up to November 1, after some 70 events and many more tastings, I recommend these wines. Most are widely available. Check Google or Bing for others.
ü Banfi, Chianti Superiore, Sangiovese/Cabernet Blend, Tuscany Italy, 2008. $11.
ü Chateau St. Michelle/Dr. Loosen, Eroica Riesling, Washington, 2008. $18.
ü Grgich Hills Estate, Fume Blanc, Napa Valley, 2009. $30.
ü Justin, Justification Cab Franc/Merlot Blend, Paso Robles, 2008. $45.
ü Starmont, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2006. $18.

Wine Bytes
§ Owner’s Picks Wine Party at Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego Fri. Dec. 3, 5 to 9pm. Karin pours her faves including Bordeaux, Barolo, Cabernet…only the good stuff with gourmet appetizers. $25. pp. More at 619-236-0005.

§ Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas pours a blind Napa Face-Off Fri. Dec. 3 from 6 to 8pm. $20. fee. Check it out at 760-479-2500.

§ Falkner Winery in Temecula hosts a Holiday Winemaker Dinner Sat. Dec. 11 with a reception at 5:30pm before a 5 course meal and Falkner’s best wines. Cost is $85. RSVP at 951-676-8231 x 109.

§ Old Town Temecula Theatre has the beloved Nutcracker Tues. Dec. 14 through Fri. Dec. 24. Cost and details at 888-363-2852.

Go West for a Harvest of Fresh Food & Fine Wines

by Frank Mangio
It was billed as Oktober West and the celebration was on to toast the harvest of the West Steak and Seafood Carlsbad Organic Farm. I was greeted at the tented entrance by a smiling group, no actually a happy-to-see-you family: owners, management, an executive chef, kitchen and wait help, all with a big contribution to this amazing world-class rustic farm-to-table feast. They included the other two hospitality favorites Bistro West and West Inn & Suites.

All were excited about Executive Chef Eugenio Martignago’s six generous food and wine pairings on this sun–filled fall day. The small bites offerings included: red and gold beets napoleon layered with truffle goat cheese, baby greens tossed with basil, pesto and balsamic honey glaze. Then there was coconut shrimp with mango and horseradish cocktail sauce. But the two that made my day were: butternut squash ravioli with prosciutto, zucchini flowers, cherry tomatoes, fresh sage and white wine sauce; and New York steak pomodoro with asiagio cheese, garlic and basil.
Part of the management team at West: left to right, Linda Fietz Eugenio Martignago, Tom Bertrand, Alex Sadeghee, Kristine Bane, Kim Akers and Jason Connolly.


Chef Eugenio did not disappoint with his selection of wines. The stand-out was Banfi of Montalcino Tuscany and its value selection, Centine. This is a beautifully crafted Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, blended to produce a smooth, fragrantly satisfying wine with Italian character. Banfi dates back to the 11th century when it was known as Castello di Poggio alle Mura. It has been owned by the Mariani Family since 1978 and officially known as Castello Banfi with 7,100 acres.
For more on West, check out www.weststeakandseafood.com, and www.bistrowest.com.

Wines to Know for the Holidays
The excitement is building at the biggest wine trade publication in the world, Wine Spectator. They have revealed 4 or their top ten wines for 2010. They have reviewed nearly 16,000 wines from all over the world in blind tastings. 3,900 received classic or 90 + ratings. Spectator observed an increase in expensive, limited production wines. Average price of the top 100 is $48.
Here are the number 10 through 6 rated wines:

10: Clos des Papes, Chateaneuf-du-Pape White 2009. France. $100.

9: CARM, Douro Reserva, Red 2007. Portugal. $27.

8: Fontodi, Coli della Toscana, Flacianello, Sangiovese Red. 2007. Italy. $110.

7. Schild, Shiraz Barossa, Red 2008. Australia. $20.

6. Paul Hobbs, Pinot Noir Russian River Valley, Red 2008. Sonoma. $45.

Next week I will reveal the rest of the top ten, plus my recent picks in over 70 tastings I have attended since my last “favorites” column in September.