Say Cheese When You’re in the Cellar

by Frank Mangio

It’s nothing short of amazing how wine and cheese make each other taste so much better. When people want you to smile for the camera, what do they ask you to say…cheese! I submit that wine will make you do the same thing. There are mild and big tasting cheeses, everyday eat-now and aged cheeses. Same with wine.

With this wine-cheese marriage in mind, I introduced myself to the group that manages The Cellar in San Clemente, where cheese plays a major role in its popularity.

The Cellar in San Clemente serves the best known wine varietals from

countries best known for wine. Jason Arnold, shown behind the bar, is the Wine Director.

Recently I wrote about the“Trifecta” formats with three successful features for wine bars. The Cellar takes it further with its devotion to great cheeses. Jason Arnold is the Sommelier and Wine Director who buys the wine and is usually seen behind the bar as the Cellar’s good-will ambassador. “We focus on California but also we have varietals that are of the most interest in each region,” he said. “Like we’ll stock Malbec from Argentina, Tempranillo from Spain and Chianti Classico from Italy.

We have flights of wine by region and we also have flights of cheese from our inventory of 70 to 80 cheeses. A soft brie will compliment a sparkling wine, or a blue cheese will match up with a Cabernet.”

I asked Arnold about cheese tasting events and he quickly agreed that it is essential to educate the public on premium cheeses. “We are starting cheese schools that will really help our customers appreciate the finer cheeses and how they bring out the best in wines,” he said, while he poured an Argyle Pinot Noir 2008 with one of the Cellar specialties: Mac and Cheese in roasted tomato, truffle oil and prosciutto.

I should add that The Cellar has weekend entertainment that fills the place, and it has a full dinner menu from Tuesday through Sunday. Check out all the hours, from “Wine Down” to the cheese shop at www.thecellarsite.com. Or call: 949-492-3663.

Wines Worthy of a 2nd Taste

It’s been about two months since my last survey of superior wines in my tasting travels through wine shops, bars, restaurants and events. I’ve come up with eight that pleased my palate. Most should be widely available. Prices shown are the lowest I could find and may vary. They are listed in alphabetical order and not by ranking. All are rated excellent (5) in the TASTE OF WINE “1 to 5” rating formula:

Callaway Viognier Special Selection, Temecula CA, 2009. $20. Clean, crisp and lots of tropical, sensuous tastes, like freshly picked apricots. More on Callaway in next week’s column.

Cinnabar Mercury Rising Blend, Napa Valley 2008. $21. A Cabernet/Merlot combination with fruit from Paso Robles. Rich mouthfeel.

Falkner Winery Amante Blend, Temecula, 2007. $39.95. Fine American example of a Super Tuscan style of wine, with 50% Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet and Ray and Loretta Falkner open a Falkner Amante at the recent Family Winemakers event. Cab Franc.

Fort Ross Pinot Noir Reserve, Sonoma CA, 2007. $25. Dense, dark Burgundian style Pinot. Unusually full-bodied. Vineyard overlooks the Pacific Ocean.

L’Ecole #41 Merlot, Columbia Valley WA, 2007. $27. A blend of mostly Merlot, fine tuned with Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Cabernet. Rich flavors with a slight peppery finish.

Marilyn Remark Granache, Monterey CA, 2008. $45. The back-bone for Southern Rhone’s Chateauf-du-Pape, Grenache has distinct chocolate flavors, melding with blackberry. Just 189 cases made. Easily the quintessential California Grenache varietal.

Pedroncelli Mother Clone Zinfandel, Sonoma CA, 2009. $15. Zin vines cloned from “mother” vines planted since 1904. Age matters. That small amount of Petite Sirah also means a lot.

V.Sattui Petite Sirah, Napa Valley CA, 2008. $26. First established 125 years ago, 4 generations of Italian style wines are reflected in this concentrated fruit.

Wine Bytes

The Junior League of San Diego has their annual benefit on Sat. Apr. 30 from 2 to 7pm, with 50 food and wine/beer booths at La Jolla Cove. It’s a laid-back 80’s island theme. Tickets are $80. ea. Check it out at www.jlsd.org.

The Best of North County Party happens at the Park Hyatt Aviara Resort in Carlsbad, Fri. May 6 from 6:30 to 9:30pm. Hosted by San Diego Magazine, it highlights the best restaurants, wineries, breweries and boutiques. $45. on-line and $55. at the door. See more at www.sandiegomagazine.com.

The next wine dinners at Encinitas Firefly Grill & Wine Bar in May are Clos Pegase Napa Valley Wines on Tues. May 10, and Sanford Wines from Santa Rita Hills on Thurs. May 12. Both start at 6:30pm and both are $75. pp. Details at 760-635-1066.

Canyons Restaurant at the Crossings Golf Course in Carlsbad presents Cakebread Wines, Thurs. May 12 from 5:30 to 8pm, along with selected menu items. $20. for the event. Call 760-444-1881.

Salerno Winery announces a newly opened Tasting Room on Highway 67 just south of Ramona, open Wed. thru Sun. from 11am to dusk. New Italian style wines and a Bocce Court are added attractions. Details at 760-788-7160.

Frank Mangio - TASTE OF WINE

Certified Wine Connoisseur-Wine Spectator
Syndicated Columnist, Lecturer, Host Special Events
Next Event: Hosted Mediterranean Celebrity Cruise
and Tuscany Winery Tour, Oct. 7 - 20, 2011. See
www.vineyardtravel.com

Wine and Jazz Share Equal Billing at Thornton

by Frank Mangio

Wine and Jazz are true soulmates. They are joined at the hip, are twin heaven-sent creations, and both make people very happy.

It’s always a friendly debate as to which wines are best, but when it comes to Jazz, I know of no other venue that does it better than Thornton Winery in Temecula. The jazz greats that play at Thornton make sure it is on their schedules every year. Most have received their big break at Thornton.

Champagne Jazz originated 23 years ago when owner John Thornton was looking for something that would keep wine customers coming back and at the same time draw music lovers in. He realized the magical fusion of the two attractions. John and his son Steve who operates the winery and restaurant, have provided 21 total wine, food and jazz concerts this year, in an intimate, personal, garden patio environment.

The first concert begins Sunday May 1st at 4pm with Spanish and Jazz Flemenco Guitarist Jesse Cooke (pictured). Mindi Abair and Bobby Caldwell follow on Saturday May 7th at 7pm. You could not choose a more exciting 1-2 combination than these two; sort of like a Thornton California Champagne Brut Reserve, followed by an Estate Bottled Syrah. Mindi has broken open new Jazz trends with a pop music path. She blows a mean sax and sings with a refreshingly unique cross-over voice that’s brought her stardom. Bobby has this smooth Sinatra-like style, sprinkled with R&B and big band. Like fine wine, he gets better with age.

Other top music stylists on the bill include: Boney James, Dave Koz, George Benson, Chris Botti and many more throughout the summer and on to October 15. For the complete list and pricing, go to www.thorntonwine.com. Or talk to Tonya Wake, the brilliant Events Manager, now in her 17th year of managing the concerts. Call 951-699-0099.

Witch Creek, an Urban Cellar by the Sea

I really enjoy a winemaker with a gleam in his eye as he proudly pours his latest release, knowing he or she has hit it so right this time. Sitting across the table from winemaker Ryan Baker at Witch Creek Winery, on the Coast Highway in Carlsbad with the ocean air off-shore, was a vintage moment in time.

Last year I pointed him out as one of the four most interesting winemakers in Southern California. Baker grew up in nearby Olivenhain but had to go to Northern California to learn how to make wine. After studying at UC Davis and working in Sonoma, he settled at Witch Creek in 2005. Decisions were then made to commit to the Italian style of winemaking with most grapes coming from the Guadalupe Valley of Mexico and Clarksburg in Northern California.

A wine menu from Witch Creek reads like an Italian map. Names like Nebbiolo, Barbera, Sangiovese, Brunello, Primitivo, Teroldego, Montepulciano and Aglianico take their place alongside the more familiar Syrah, Zinfandel and Merlot.

The cork popped on a bottle with no label and Baker had me smell the bouquet and taste the just-bottled 2009 100% Montepulciano. The ’08 was a winner with club members and in the tasting room at $21. It was showing the youthful fruit and had a wine baby’s-breath, but 2009 had been a really good year and expectations are high for this Italian varietal.

“I am allowing the spicy raspberry fruit to show itself in the taste,”he said. “We’ll do 116 cases. I don’t think it gets any better than that.”

I thought so too…until we got to his 2009 Sangiovese. It’s all good at Witch Creek. Look it up at www.witchcreekwinery.com.

Wine Bytes

North County Wine Company continues their Fri. fun Apr. 22 from 4 to 8pm with 7 wines for $10., from new Chardonnays to Italian Brunellos. Details at 760-744-2119.

Belle Marie Winery in Escondido is planning a Winemakers Dinner on Fri. Apr. 22 from 6 to 8pm. It’s a 5 course dinner paired with their wines, with the use of spice blends. $89 pp. 760-796-7557.

San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Rd. has a Blind Wine Tasting Sat. Apr. 23 from 11am to 4:30pm for $10. Details at 858-586-WINE.

DAOU Vineyards and Winery is featured at FLAVOR Restaurant in the Del Mar Plaza, Tues. Apr. 26. Reception at 6:30, dinner at 7pm. $95. ea. Enjoy DAOU paired wines from Prosecco to Cabernet and Moscato. RSVP at 858-755-3663.

The hottest get-a-way will be up in Pebble Beach near Carmel/Monterey for the annual Food & Wine event. 70 celebrity chefs, 250 world class wines, 4 days: Thurs. Apr. 28 to Sun. May 1. Call 866-907-FOOD (3663) for tickets.

California Wine Festival: April 29-30

by Frank Mangio

Orange Country will be in a buzz Friday April 29 and Saturday April 30 as the California Wine Festival becomes the hottest ticket in town with a quintessential two day wine tasting experience. The organizers, who publish a leading wine trade magazine, present events at the Ritz Carlton Resort Hotel Laguna Niguel Friday starting from 4:30pm with a Riedel Glass Tasting and Seminar, then a Sunset Rare and Reserve Tasting in the grand Ballroom from 6:30 to 9pm.

Saturday April 30 it’s the Grand Tasting and Festival from 1 to 4pm, with a VIP pass option from 11:30 to 4pm, at Doheny State Beach in Dana Point.

I have reviewed the wineries commited to Saturday’s outdoor event and would recommend tasting from: Adelaida, Alexander Valley, Briar Rose, Callaway, Cass, Kenneth Volk, Kiamie, Laetitia, Leonesse, Opolo, Scheid, Wiens, Wilson Creek and Vino Robles. These wines are California fruit-forward, from Temecula Valley, Paso Robles, Monterey, Sonoma and Santa Barbara. We don’t’ want to overlook the restaurants that will be presenting generous samples of their menu items. Popular dining rooms like Smoky’s House of BBQ, Melting Pot, Nirvana Gourmet and a loaf of bread for every Saturday visitor from Sadie Rose Bakery.

The Friday evening wine gathering is billed as rare and reserve wines. Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, a champagne reception will begin the festivities, followed by rare bottles from Napa, Sonoma, the Central Coast and Santa Barbara. Top regional chefs will serve hot and cold appetizers, while bluesy Jazz keeps things melodic and cool. An 18 ounce wine glass to keep is a delightful bonus.

This same group has a Santa Barbara similar beachside event set up for Thursday July 14 through Saturday July 16.

Several levels of tickets are available and I urge you to access www.californiawinefestival.com as soon as possible. Tickets for both the Dana Point and Santa Barbara events start at $65. each. If you want to speak to someone, call 800-797-7753.

Arterra Unwraps New Rave-Style Restaurant

Arterra, which is defined as “art of the earth,” has the San Diego dining scene raving and wanting more once they discover this stylistic restaurant, bar and outdoor lounge off the lobby of the Marriott Hotel, on El Camino Real at Sorrento Valley Road, Del Mar.

The meet and greet area inside Arterra is really 3 areas. The outdoor lounge is spacious with lots of stand-up and sit down space set around fascinating firepits with low-rise décor walls. The wine bar doubles as a sushi bar, widely known as a chill-out and relaxation station.

Arterra Executive Chef Tony Miller, left, shows TASTE OF WINE columnist Frank Mangio the impressive bar along with Marriott Hotel Del Mar Assistant Manager Jay Ibarolle.

Executive Chef Tony Miller has an impressive portfolio of hotels and restaurants including 11 years with Marriotts. His last one was Hawaii and it deliciously showed in his menu selections.

For starters, try the lobster “mac and cheese” with mascarpone, parmesan, white truffle and orzo chives. Move into flatbreads with “cold pizza” supporting smoked salmon, chili crème fraiche, blanco grapefruit, avocado, watercress and salmon roe.

In the mains, there are many to choose but the honey glazed natural chicken breast, duck confit, scallion pancake and cucumber kim chee was superb. The meal was washed down with Erath Pinot Gri 2009 and a personal favorite, Frank Family 100% Cabernet 2006. Chef Tony has been at Arterra for 9 months and is taking it to new heights of fusion-style food. “What grows together, goes together he said. “We take 4 different cultures and put them together.”

Originality and an element of mystery have made Arterra what it is today… a place to see, and been seen. Check it out at www.arterrarestaurant.com. Call 858-369-6032.

Wine Bytes

§ Red Blends are featured at the next Friday night Bacchus Wine Market event, Apr. 15, from 4 – 8:30pm in the Gaslamp Downtown San Diego. $15. gets you 6 different red wine blends. Call 619-236-0005 for names.

§ It’s a Night of Pinots at Vigilucci’s downtown Carlsbad Thurs. Apr. 21 at 6:30pm. Includes a 5 course dinner paired with California Pinot Noirs for $65. pp. RSVP at 760-434-2500.

§ Its’ a night of small wineries and big wines at the Orange County Wine Extraordinaire at the Anaheim Hilton, Sun. Apr. 17 from 2 to 5pm. Cost is $50. advance, $60. at the door. 80 wineries in attendance. Taste wines in a Riedel Glass. Call 714-708-1636.

§ Sage Grill in Encinitas continues its series of fine wine dinners with a Rutherford Hill Wine event Mon. Apr. 18. Reception at 6:30pm, dinner at 7pm. Four wines, three courses, $59. ea. A Big Wine & Apps tasting is planned for Wed. Apr. 13 from 6 - 8pm. $20. in advance. RSVP at 760-943-SAGE(7243).

§ 333 Pacific in Oceanside is presenting a Chilean Wine Tasting on Tues. Apr. 19 from 5:30-8:30pm, Heavy appetizers included in the price of $20. pp. Details at 760-433-3333.

§ Taste top Italian wines of Italy’s premier Vinitaly Festival at Toast Enoteca & Cucina, downtown San Diego, Thurs. Apr. 21 from 6-9pm. More than 40 wines will be offered with delicious Italian appetizers. Cost is $60. RSVP to Toast at 619-269-4207.

The Mondavis Move On and Up

by Frank Mangio
Quietly, without fanfare, Michael Mondavi, favored son of the great one of wine, the late Robert Mondavi, is re-building his place in the Napa Valley Wine Hall of Fame. Michael’s story is the stuff of legends, after 40 years and 2 empires. The current success is Folio Fine Wine Partners.

TASTE OF WINE visited with Michael recently at his estate in Napa Valley and found the passion and heritage in place, but with a relaxed and mild-mannered posture. If we fast-rewind the clock back to 1966, when Robert Mondavi Winery was first-born, Michael was already winemaking and with fire in his belly. He was determined to show his father he could be every bit as good as Mondavi confidants Warren Winiarski and Mike Grgich, two Napa greats, who would later leave Mondavi and present wines that would topple French dominance in the “Judgement of Paris” in 1976.

Michael is now beyond the go-go days that ground out one of the largest public wine companies in the world. In 2004, he and his son Rob, daughter Dina and wife Isabel combined fine family wine with world-wide premium wines from Italy, Spain, France, Austria, Germany, Australia and New Zealand.


Mondavi patriach, Michael Mondavi, founded Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa producers and importers of wine from exciting countries around the world.

The tradition continues as son Rob is now the winemaker at Folio, highlighted by the 2007 M, a Cabernet aged in mostly new French oak barrels for 22 months. The wine is rich yet supple, and has soul beyond its years. This is Michael’s signature wine. It was racked several times then cellared15 months in bottle before release.( $200.) Michael was quoted as saying that “wines are like people; some age quickly and flame out; others continue to improve over the years. You never get a second chance to make a first impression.”

It’s been a long time since the chaos of the boardroom at Robert Mondavi Winery and age has been kind to Michael Mondavi and his true family. He and his son are making the best wine of their lives and he is a happier man for it. See for yourself at www.foliowine.com.

Vigilucci’s Restaurants Pour It On
Roberto Vigilucci and his team of restaurant managers are running fast lately, with an array of wine events that have stirred a lot of attention. From Coronado to Carlsbad, Vigilucci’s and fine wineries have paired up to treat guests to world-class names.

Two recent occasions included Chateau St. Michelle, pouring at the Carlsbad Coast Highway location; and the premier winery in all of Italy, Castello Banfi based in Tuscany, in a special appearance at the original Encinitas Vigilucci’s. Vittorio Homberger, the affable manager in the Carlsbad coast location, runs a lovely, contemporary seafood and steak Vigilucci’s with a sweeping view of the Pacific Ocean.

Chris Livingston with Marc Lipovac of Southern Wine & Spirits, help manager Vittorio Homberger at a recent Chateau St. Michelle wine event at Vigilucci’s Carlsbad.

Based in Washington, Chateau St. Michelle is a major west coast wine producer with a portfolio of familiar fine wines. This night, we were treated to a wine that made my top ten last year: the 2008 Eroica Riesling, a product of the genius of Chateau St. Michelle’s winemaker and Germany’s best winemaker, Dr. Ernst Loosen. The name itself is a product of the musical genius of Beethoven and his Third Symphony. It sells for $25. You will love the crisp acidity. Another that has showed up on my previous Top Ten lists is Erath Pinot Noir from Oregon. It is in top form with the current 2008 release.( $19.). Fruit forward silky finesse with concentrated structure. In Encinitas,

Manager Paolo Pastorelli brought in Castello Banfi with their Educational Director Sharron McCarthy. Sharron informed us that 3 generations of the Mariani family have guided Banfi to a prime position in the Italian wine world, from Castello Banfi in Montalcino, Tuscany, to Banfi Vintners a world-class wine distributor.

“The reds with the Banfi banner are made on our 7,100 acres of vineyards near Montalcino that have virtually 100 micro-climates, enabling Banfi to produce wine grapes from Pinot Grigio to Brunello,” she said. She was especially fond of the 2007 BELNERO, an exciting Super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese and French varietals, and made a point to remind us that Banfi reds are best served at 64 to 67 degrees instead of “room temperature.”

Castello Banfi is a featured visit on the TASTE OF WINE Tuscan Tour October 7 to 10, part of our Celebrity Mediterranean Cruise from October 10 to 20. You can find out more by calling 800-359-3772.

Wine Bytes
Meet the Chefs of Del Mar Sun. Apr.10 at the Hilton Del Mar from 1 to 4pm. Top chefs are presenting their best dishes and fine wines. Drawings for exciting food and wine prizes. Tickets are $125. VIP $185. All proceeds to Casa de Amparo. Visit www.casadeamparo.org or call 760-754-5500.

Wine Vault in San Diego brings in Cass Winemaker Ted Plemons for a wine dinner Sun. Apr. 10 from 5 to 9pm. Ted has made my column many times with his Paso Robles Rhone Valley style. Reception at 4:15pm. Cost is $49.50. Contact by phone at 619-295-3939.

Keyways Vineyard and Winery in Temecula has its annual birthday Karnival Sun. Apr. 10 from 3 to 6pm. Games, food, wines and more. $25. for club members, $35 non-members. $10. for kids 5-12. Call 1-877-KEYWAYS.

Orfila Winery in Escondido has its next Concert in the Vines with artist Laura Roppe singing Sun. Apr. 10, 4:30 to 6:30pm. Tickets are $20. Call 800-868-9463.

Flemings Steakhouse & Wine Bar in La Jolla has a Justin Winery event Fri. Apr. 15 at 6:30pm. Appetizers and a 4 course dinner. $95. pp. Call for an RSVP at 858-535-0078.

Spring Brings Wine Events

By Janene Roberts

Reviews

As Linda McWilliams, co-owner of San Pasqual Winery, talked about her idea to open a wine bar focused on sparkling wines at their Valentine’s Day Chocolate & Dessert Extravaganza, I could see the twinkle in her eye and realized later after sampling the wine and dessert pairing offerings, that sparkling wine is where her gift as a winemaker is.

Their pairings featured their “Toast of the Town” Sparkling Brut and a creative pairing of the Brut with their Roselle Passion Fruit Wine called “Pretty ‘n Pink”. That drink along with a white truffle from Sugar & Scribe in Pacific Beach was my favorite pairing of the evening. A melt-in-your-mouth truffle along with the fun and sparkly wine was a wonderful combination. I purchased a bottle of their Roselle wine and my friend purchased some more Sparkling Brut. I suggest picking up this pairing and offering it at your next party or outdoor picnic as the weather warms up.

Picks

•San Pasqual Toast of the Town Brut Sparkling wine $25 a bottle

•San Pasqual Roselle Passion Fruit Wine $15 a bottle

On another note, San Pasqual was featured in February’s Sunset Magazine

in their article on the top 100 cultural trends shaping the west. The article spelled out the ideas, places and things that are making life in the west better. Trend numbers seventeen through twenty-one featured five urban wineries. San Pasqual Winery was listed in this section as an urban winery with “north-of-the-border-made Tempranillo (a Spanish grape), grown in Baja, Mexico.”

www.sanpasqualwinery.com, (619) 462-1797, 8364 La Mesa Blvd, La Mesa, CA

Reviews

Early in March I experienced Temecula Valley’s WOW-World of Wine barrel tasting event that lasted the whole weekend. Thirty-three of Temecula Valley’s wineries participated and offered ticket holders a new wine still in the barrel as well as a few bottled wines and food pairings. When my friend and I saw all the offerings we wanted to come back the next day and sample more, but by the end of the day, we had been sated enough to be content.

One of my favorite offerings was at the winery where we picked up the tickets. Ponte Family Estate Winery offered a 2009 still-in-the-barrel Sangiovese and a 2009 bottled Viognier. Viognier has been my favorite white wine for a while, and this one didn’t disappoint. A lot of the wineries are producing this white variety that grows well in the area, but Ponte’s was my favorite Viognier I tasted that day.

Pick

•Ponte 2009 Viognier, $23.95 a bottle

www.pontewinery.com, (877) 314-9463 35053 Rancho California Road, Temecula

Upcoming Events

Rhythm and Vine

A music, wine and food event benefiting the Boys & Girls Clubs of Greater San Diego. In its third year, the festival that takes place at the North County Westfield Shopping Center, features world-class wineries, spirits and breweries, North County’s best restaurants and gourmet foods, a wine and lifestyle silent auction, an exclusive VIP tent and after-party, and a variety of high-energy musical performances. All proceeds benefit the Boys & Girls Clubs of Greater San Diego.

April 9, 2011

6-9 p.m.

$75 (in Advance) (General Admission)/$100 at the door

Upcoming Events

Slow Foods Temecula Valley

Premiere Wines, Craft Beer and Food Pairing Event in the Temecula Valley. An afternoon of local cuisine, premium wines, cold beer and friendship centered around teaching local Temecula Valley kids to know where food is grown, how it tastes, and how their food choices affect the rest of the world.

May 21, 2011

1-5 p.m.

$50 (presale) per person

www.slowfoodtv.org