Wednesday, May 25, 2011

New Faces New Winners in Napa Valley

by Frank Mangio

Napa Valley, some 5o miles north of San Francisco is still the “Holy Grail” of all wine countries in the U.S., even the world. Over 4 million visitors pay homage to the 30 miles of vineyards and wineries that number about 400. Only 75 are open to the public, so if you are heading up to your favorite winery, a call ahead of time will likely gain you entrance to a tasting. Napa Valley makes only 4% of the wines in California but produces 20% of the wine sales in the state. The Napa Valley Vintners Association paid a call to San Diego recently at Flemings Steakhouse in La Jolla, with over 22 wineries pouring.


When I looked at the lineup it struck me right away that the baton has been passed from the venerable names like Mondavi, Chateau Montelena, BV, Beringer and others, to a new breed of winery with a style, taste and public persona that wine consumers are turning to.


Names to know now in Napa Valley are: Frank Family, Tamber Bey, Monticello, Lewis, Duckhorn, Chiarello, Fifty Row, O’Shaughnessy and a favorite on the Howell Mountain side of Napa Valley, Howell at the Moon.


Howell at the Moon owner and winemaker Marc Cohen with
Assistant Manager Tina Castillo at the Napa Valley Road Show in la Jolla.


Howell Mountain is the crown jewel of the Napa Valley, rising above the fog to 2,000 feet with strong afternoon sun influences and cooler nights. The wineries on the mountain are known for their Cabernet and Zinfandel.


On this occasion, I got an opportunity to participate in a “vertical tasting” of Cabernets presented by Howell at the Moon wines, from the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages. Owner Marc Cohen was quick to tell me he is completely out of the ‘05 and ’06, and it was easy to taste why. The tannins mellowed out and the enriched Cab flavors came spilling in with dark, brambly cherry/berry accents.


Cohen also has been a big seller of his wines in China where most of his 600 to 900 cases have gone. With some aging, the 2007 ( $75.) will be in the same class.


Howell At The Moon is 21 acres and makes only Cabernets. “We have spared no expense to accomplish being able to offer a fine quality single vineyard, Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon,” Cohen said. We have assembled the best at what they do, including my dog, Tysie. His job is to signal maximum grape ripeness at harvest by howling.” It is his dog Tysie you see on the Howell at the Moon label. See more at www.howellatthemoon.com.


V. Sattui Faces Life After 125

In the most traveled lane through Napa Valley, Highway 29 just above St. Helena, you will discover V.Sattui Winery. Last year it turned 125. First founded in 1885 by Vittorio Sattui, it has a proud history of the highest standards of wine, vineyards, buildings and customer service. Under the leadership of owner Dario Sattui and President Tom Davies, the winery looks only to the future, determined to make certain that everything they do is the best. If you have to go to just one event in Napa Valley, make it the V. Sattui Festa Italiana on Saturday July 30. It is an old world midsummer outdoor feast, with music and dancing.


Tom Davies, President of V. Sattui from Napa Valley

presides over a wine picnic on the grounds of the winery.


A trip into the wine tasting room finds the aromas of old Italy with cheeses, meats, olive oil and nearly a hundred different wines to choose from. Over 70,000 cases of wine are sold direct from the winery, made by celebrated wine maker Brooks Painter. The winery has been awarded Best Winery 5 times in the last decade.


What will V. Sattui do next? I have no doubt, this winery will soar to even greater heights. Take a look at www.vsattuui.com.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Spotlight, Milagro Farm

by Janene Roberts

John Maggione, representative

Milagro Farm Vineyards & Winery

Milagro Farm Vineyards & Winery is a San Diego winery in Ramona that’s getting some attention–partly for its winemaker, Jim Hart who is Joe Hart of Hart Winery in Temecula’s son, and also partly for its wine. The winery is located in the new appellation of Ramona and the ’07 Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example of what a winemaker coming from a winemaking family can do for and up-and-coming wine region. Look for the ’07 Cabernet Sauvignon (multiple silver medal winner) at local Costco’s and some Albertsons. Tasting notes for the wine include aromas of black cherries, black currants, and vanilla–all nicely balanced with oak. Retails for about $22.

Thirsty Girl

The Thirsty Girls are coming to San Diego this Thursday, May 26 from 6-8 p.m.. Thirsty Girl is a blog that celebrates Life and Drinking it Up. The crew has been traveling to towns with their Mingle, Mix and Munch with Us event featuring Leslie Sbrocco, author of Wine for Women and regular Today Show wine contributor. For $30 you will taste Seven TG Select wines paired with appetizers and a chance to win Thirsty Girl Swag. A portion of the proceeds will benefit a local Dress for Success chapter.

TICKETS: Purchase tickets at; $30.00; http://tgsandiegolive.eventbrite.com

Thirsty Girl has also selected me to be their July 21 Thursday Thirsty Girl…They like me, they really, really like me!

Image from the Rhythm & Vine event at Westfield North County, April 9, 2011

Rhythm & Vine, 2011




Wednesday, May 11, 2011

California Whites and a German in Washington

by Frank Mangio
I can feel it coming. Warm weather is arriving as May skips in, the garden is blooming with a gorgeous kaleidoscope of colors, and my palate is calling for a chilled, white wine at the end of the day. This is happening more frequently when all I seek is a “cool-down” from a garden variety wine, maybe a Chardonnay or a Viognier, but more likely a Riesling.

I know I speak volumes on reds, especially Italian. But even Italians stop, smell and taste the whites they make. California is undergoing a transition from a one-white wine state with oceans of Chardonnay, to a mix of choices that include: Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italy), Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Chenin Blanc and Rousanne to name a few.

They all have their followers and I’ve done my share of following Viognier, which originates in the Rhone Valley of France. The complex tropical notes of this lovely varietal has been touted as the successor to Chardonnay for many years, without doing much to move up the ladder.

For my money and pleasure, the real contender is Riesling, and this German midas touch is no better exemplified, not in California but in Washington, with Eroica ($18.). The team of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s master winemaker Bob Bertheau and German Riesling wine guru Ernst Loosen, maker of his own Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett from Mosel, are beyond compare.

Great Riesling has soaring acidity, flavor from down deep in the earth, beautifully balanced with low alcohol. “I have learned from Doctor Loosen, how to protect Riesling fruit purity,” said Bertheau. “This assures a fresh fruit-driven Riesling.”

Expect to enjoy the subtle, dry fruit flavors of apricot, pear, mango and melon. Served cold, 47 to 50 degrees, you will cool down, calm down and hear running water over mountain streams. PROST! More at www.eroicawines.com.

The Brother Act at North County Wine Co.
I don’t know of anyone who enjoys being on the other side of the bar in their own wine shop than Jim and Bill Tobin of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.

Every time I look over their wine tasting “newsletter” I nearly double over with laughter. The “writer” is their intern “Enrico” who skewers his bosses every chance he gets. On a recent choice of a blend at a wine event, Enrico snorted that “a frog with a blender would do better.”

The reality is that the brothers Tobin offer great wines that are exciting and attractive, usually 7 generous tastes on Fridays from 4 to 9pm, plus appetizers, for just $10! On the night I was there, tastes included: Chalone, Rosenblum, Newton, Provenance, Sterling and a “candy bar in a bottle” Desiree Dessert Wine ($15.97), a steal. The Tobin’s motto is: “great wines, great prices, guaranteed.” See their site at www.northcountywinecompany.com.

Bill and Jim Tobin are the proprietors of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.

Wine Bytes
La Costa Wine Company has Orin Swift Wines on Fri. May 13 from 6 to 8:30pm. It’s a blend style winery moving up fast. $25. pp. Details at 760-431-8646.

Make a Wish has its 3rd annual Roll Out the Barrel benefit at Humphreys in Pt. Loma Sat. May 14 from 5 to 8pm. Top wines and chefs participate. Cost is $125., $200. for a VIP ticket. Check out www.makeawishgala.com for more.

Wine Styles in Encinitas is hosting a North County Wine Tour Sun. May 15 from 10:15 to 4:30pm. It starts from their shop. Cost is $60. for transportation, tasting 3 wineries and a special pizza lunch, all included. Limit 25 guests. Call 760-633-0057.

RELM Wine Bar in downtown Carlsbad is bringing in 10 wine reps for an unlimited tasting Mon. May 16 from 6 to 8pm. $25. cost. No RSVP. Details at 760-814-1198.

Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas has booked Pine Ridge for a wine dinner on Wed. May 18 at 6:30pm. Cost is $75. Call 760-635-1066 for an RSVP.

Vigiluccis in Carlsbad by the sea on the Coast Highway has a native Tuscan Wine Dinner Fri. May 20 at 6:30pm. $80. ea. Four courses including Risotto alla Salsiccia and Grilled Bone-in Veal Chop. Wines include Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello Di Montalcino. For an RSVP, call 760-434-2580.

Friday, May 6, 2011

Callaway’s Return to Greatness

by Frank Mangio
A little over 40 years ago, a dynamic businessman named Ely Callaway started up a winery in Temecula with his name on the building. Callaway Vineyard and Winery was born. His heart was really in golf and the equipment that makes the sport work, but he also loved premium wines and found in the Temecula area, the perfect spot to start a winery. It was a 1,600 foot plateau on what would be the entrance to Temecula Wine Country. He ignored so called experts who said the area would never produce premium wine and went about promoting the region. Ely Callaway sold the winery in 1981 and went on to fame and fortune in golf equipment, and a succession of corporate owners ruled Callaway Winery and produced boring wine.

Ely Callaway

Now in the hands of the Linn Family of San Diego, the passion and quality have come back and the Ely Callaway legacy continues.

Much of the credit is given the Executive Chef of the winery’s Meritage Restaurant, Michael Henry; and their wine maker Craig Larson, a Canadian with a passion for Old World Wines.

Henry, a world traveler, developed an old world style with a farmer’s approach, insisting on the freshest ingredients available. The day I sampled the eclectic menu, Henry was in an Italian mood and the result was a delicious combination of Shaved Prosciutto Flatbread with Zucchini, Fennel, Baby Tomato and Basil for openers. Then we moved into the Pan Roasted Organic Chicken Cutlet, and finished with the Veal, Beef and Ricotta Meatball Parmesan with Rigatoni “Agli Olio,” Capers and Arugula.

Craig Larson, the newest wine maker for Callaway got right to the point. “I am a lover of the French Rhone Valley varietal, especially southern Rhone like the Chateau du Pape district that offers Syrah, Grenache and Cincault,” he said. “They do more blending and get more flavors with fruit-forward wine.” Larsen is unique as a wine maker. He earned a Master Sommelier certification and was Wine Director at the world-renowned Ritz-Carlton Resort in Laguna Niguel, before resuming wine making in Washington prior to coming to Callaway. “I want all grapes to be estate grapes,” he declared. “We have harvested and bottled Mouvedre and will be planting Grenache, Cincault and Rousanne. We need to get to know what this soil can do. We have produced less, so the quality can be the best.”

In a recent column, I wrote about the beautiful 2008 Viognier coming out of Callaway, with its tropical, sensuous pleasures. It’s what you can expect from the new Callaway. Learn more at www.callawaywinery.com.

Sniffing Around the Temecula Wine Scene
An old seafaring phrase is that a higher tide raises all boats; and so it is that Temecula Wine Country is producing much better wine from many wineries these days.

I first met Marcelo Doffo over a month ago at the most recent Wine Country event, the World of Wine Barrel Tasting. I like a lot of things about my job but right up there on top is the private tastings of ultra premium varietals that are “under the table.” Doffo had some real treasures. His Italian-Argentinian heritage oozed Old World.

Marcelo Doffo

Marcelo Doffo makes a point on making wine next to his 2006 Tiarella Blend at Doffo Winery in Temecula. His outdoor courtyard, part of the 15 acres tucked away in wine country, has a wood-burning oven and grill for gatherings, while classical music plays in the vineyard to “soothe the grapes.”

Wines to try at Doffo include: 2009 Malbec, 2009 Zinfandel, 2006 Tiarella Blend and a vintage Merlot that goes for $300., if there are any bottles left. See www.doffowines.com.

The new Europa Village has opened its doors, opening a new era in wineries in Temecula. The owners envision a muti-cultural French, Spanish and Italian setting with buildings for shops, wine tasting, events and gracious service. It’s open daily from 10am to 5pm and located near Callaway. Access information at www.europavillage.com.

A guided walking tour of Old Town Temecula Tasting Rooms is now available through an Apple I Phone application. It offers narrated accurate turning directions and insights to wine tasting in Old Town. It’s offered though GPSmyCity.com. For details, contact Linda Kissam at 951-526-4540

Wine Bytes
The Wine Rave, scheduled for Apr. 28 has been moved forward to Thurs. June 23 from 7 to 10pm at FLUXX nightclub downtown San Diego. Questions, call 619-312-1212.

Il Fornaio in the Del Mar Plaza has the next Festa Regionale now to Wed. May 15. This time the region of Abruzzo is saluted. Entrees from this district are presented, along with native wines. For an RSVP, call 1-888-ITALIAN.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido is doing a Mothers Day Champagne and Cupcakes event Sat. May 7 from 2 to 4pm, including Blanc de Blanc and Rose’ for $10. pp. Details at 760-745-1200.

Opolo Wines from Paso Robles are the featured varietals at the Wine Encounter in Hillcrest, Tues. May 10 from 7 to 9pm. Light appetizers included. Cost is $18. Call 619-543-WINE.

SAGE Grill in Encinitas has a Franciscan wine dinner Mon. May 16 starting with a reception at 6:30pm. RSVP and details at 760-943-7243.

The Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas is the site for Wine Spectator’s Grand Wine Tour 2011, Sat. May 14 from 7 to 10pm. Over 200 of the world’s finest wines will be poured. Light buffet and free Riedel glass included. See www.grandtour.winespectator.com.