Champagne & Port Add Sparkle to New Year’s Parties

by Frank Mangio

America is responsibly drinking alcoholic beverages in increasing amounts. 62% of us are consuming wine in sparkling champagne compared to 55% 10 years ago, and chances are on New Year’s Eve the percentage increases for Champagne, sparkling wine and port.

There is a world of bubbles out there, almost as many kinds of sparkling wine as there are bubbles inside of a typical bottle ( no, not quite since the average bottle has some 50 million bubbles in it when it’s opened).

Champagne is a city in France. It was the first to make the bubbly with a centuries-old method made from the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. Strict name and trade regulations guard the quality of Champagne.

True Champagne comes from only one region, Champagne France

with Dom Perignon the best known name.

After the grapes are pressed they are stored in stainless steel in a first-fermentationyielding a base or “still” wine. Next comes a blending process with other base wines producing a distinct quality and character. It is then bottled and a mixture of sugar and yeast is added.

The bottle is closed with a “crown cap” and laid down horizontally for a minimum 15 months to 3 years for a vintage champagne. Many vintage and premium priced Champagnes are aged longer. After aging, the yeast deposit from the 2nd fermentation is forced down the neck through a series of turns to where it is inverted, a process that takes 8 weeks by hand, much less by machine. Sweetness is controlled by controlling the time frame for fermentation. Brut is the style with the least amount of sugar content.

Dessert Champagnes will be the sweetest with over 5% sugar. Two other terms to know: Blanc de Blanc is a Champagne made from 100% Chardonnay grapes. It has a light, dry taste; and Blanc de Noirs is a Champagne made from 100% Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grapes. These wines are full-bodied and deeper yellow-gold in color.

A good source of information on Champagne is www.wineorigins.com.

American style Vintage Brut is produced largely in Sonoma, in the area known as the Russian River Valley. J Vineyards, founded by Judy Jordan of Jordan Wines in 1986, focuses on Brut and Brut Rose’ sparkling wines. The terroir driven wines are reminiscent of the Champagne District of France. Its Cuvee Non Vintage Brut starts at $24. See www.jwine.com.

Port Wines

Portugal’s most famous wine is Port and like Champagne in France, its origins produce a unique experience, in the Douro Valley and the seaport of Oporto. It is meticulously handcrafted as it was centuries ago, as a lusciously sweet and powerful dessert wine, with alcohol content about 20% for most ports.

Five native grapes are used for quality Port, but the one that has the most acclaim is Touriga Nacional. It has intense color, aroma and taste and is the prominent blend in the bottle. As with most other red wines, vintage counts with Portuguese Ports. A 10 year old Port will satisfy; a 20 year old Port will be ecstasy. Look for an aged Tawny Port for more of a nutty, brown sugar taste that can go to 40 years old before release. Names to know are: Cockburn, Graham’s, Dow’s and Fonseca.

One such recommended winery is Pedroncelli in the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, with its 2006 Four Grapes Vintage Port. The grapes, which match the best of Portugal, are estate-grown and hand-picked. It is released in 500 ml bottles and will benefit from age for the next 10 years. ( $19.) Find out more at the web site: www.pedroncelli.com.

Wine Bytes

CATCH is the newest restaurant in downtown Carlsbad. Operated by the owners of PAON nearby, CATCH promises sustainable seafood dishes, a great bar with 30 wines by the glass at $7. ea. A Sushi Bar has a wide selection of Sake. Open for lunch and dinner. Call 760-729-7904.

Bacchus Wine Market has an Early-Bird High-End Tasting on Sat. Dec. 31 from 2 to 6pm for $45. Seven premium wines will be served with world-wide names. RSVP ahead at 619-236-0005.

New Years Eve will be an event at Acqua Al2 Italian Restaurant in the Gaslamp District of downtown San Diego. A prix-fix menu of popular dishes will be served with seatings at 5:30, 7:30 and 9:30pm. Price is $65. For more, RSVP at 619-230-0382.

Via Italia Encinitas is offering a 5 course New Years Eve menu for $65. ea. Pastas include: Risotto, Pappardelle, Mezzelune, Strangolapretti and Panccheri. Call 760-479-9757.

SDSU College of Extended Studies will begin Spring Semester for its Certified Business of Wine Program with Exploring Wine on Tuesday, Jan. 24 to Feb. 21 from 6 to 9pm on the main campus. Lisa Redwine, Food and Beverage Manager at the Marine Room teaches. Call 619-594-6924 for details.

Meet Master Italian Chef Suzette Gresham-Tognetti

by Frank Mangio

In covering the November 16 to 20 San Diego Bay Wine and Food Festival, I was impressed at how many fascinating culinary classes there were, where the chefs dug right in and offered their heart and sweat to actually reveal their secrets, then had the classes taste their results.

San Diego’s top chefs were busy with their restaurant’s finest menu items, offering samples at the major wine events on Friday and Saturday, but the ones to watch were the army of celebrity chefs from such culinary centers as Chicago, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, New York and my shout-out favorite: Suzette Gresham-Tognetti of the famed Acquerello Italian Restaurant in San Francisco. This restaurant is known for its dedication to wine and food pairing. It has 3 sommeliers on the floor at all times.

Master Italian Chef Suzatte Gresham-Tognetti making Risotto alia Zucca.

Her operating motto is a simpleone: “Get the best, and leave it alone.” She loves fennel salad de-stemmed, sliced, twisted in very cold water and shaved. What got the class really excited was her Risotto alia Zucca ( Pumpkin Risotto ). She emphasized that the risotto must be Aborio Rice, and she favors an Italian brand “Fior di Riso.”

She added a combination of yam puree and diced squash to the Risotto. Accent ingredients included: olive oil, butter, onion, garlic, nutmeg, parmesan grating cheese and white wine. Serve over pancetta, and wash it down with a lovely Italian Sangiovese Red Wine. At this session, the Castello d’ Abola Le Ellere 2006 was served, from Tuscany. This is a traditional dish re-invented in a lighter, more contemporary style….simple but elegant.

Gresham-Tognetti is co-owner of Acquerello, named after the watercolor theme of the restaurant which was a former chapel in San Francisco. Their chef’s tasting menu, weaving salmon, prosciutto, mushroom ravioli, breast of duck, delicate Italian cheeses and truffles in 8 courses paired with fine Italian wines, will thrill your palate. Discover this gem at www.aquerello.com.

Another not-to-miss event at the festival was the Friday night Reserve and New Release Tasting and Silent Auction, this year held at the Air and Space Museum in San Diego’s Balboa Park. This venue was just the ticket to taste only top quality wines, spirits and chef food samplings.

Ray and Loretta Falkner of Temecula’s Falkner

Winery poured their Bordeaux Blends and tasty whites

at the Reserve and New Release Tasting.

The San Diego Bay Wine and Food Festival gets bigger and better each year and is the largest of its kind in Southern California. Access more at www.worldofwineevents.com.

Wine Bytes

New Years Eve is just about on us so Wine Bytes reviews some of the more interesting celebrations on the calendar Sat. night Dec. 31:

Flavor in the Del Mar Plaza has its “Fantastic Dinner and “Wild Party” for $89. pp with a premium for wine pairings (two price options). A DJ is in the lounge from 9pm to 1am. Phone 858-755-3663 for an RSVP.

The Westgate Hotel downtown San Diego presents The Great Gatsby New Years Eve event from 7:30 to 2am. For $149 ea. you get a 5 course wine pairing dinner with complimentary champagne all night. Singer Greg Page does a live performance with dancing to swing music.

There is an overnight package that includes a deluxe room for two. Reserve at 619-557-3655.

A 7 course dinner to remember is planned for the Addison at the Grand Del Mar Resort, 5:30 to 10:30pm. Wine pairings to perfection are optional to the $225. price pp. Guests receive a complimentary entrance to the party with the Wayne Foster 6 piece band. RSVP at 858-314-1900.

Big Night in San Diego is at the Hilton Bayfront from 9 to 3am, with 12 different party zones. Guests are free to roam through each venue. Fully stocked bars and buffet with 12 bands and a variety of entertainment. Also casino tables, retro zones and a main stage. See www.bignightsandiego.com.

A magical New Years Eve Gala happens at Thornton Winery from 7:30 to 12:30am in Temecula. Fine wines, food and entertainment. Magic and a dance band are planned. $150. ea. RSVP at 951-699-0099.

A New York, New York Gala is happening at South Coast Winery in Temecula starring the Mighty Untouchables with Rat Pack sound-a-likes. Call for more information at 866-994-6379 x1.

More New Years Eve fun at Wilson Creek Winery with a Roaring 20’s Speakeasy Party starting at 7pm. 3 course dinner with a big band, wine and a midnight champagne toast. $160. charge, with $145. for club members. Call 951-699-9463.

How to Serve Sparkling Wine (Click Below Picture)

Wine Spectator’s Most Exciting Wines of 2011

by Frank Mangio

Each year Wine Spectator, the most respected wine publication in the world, compiles the top 100 wines reviewed the past 12 months. They were selected from some 16,000 new releases that were blind tasted and placed into a 100 point scale according to: quality ( the wine’s score), value (the price), availability ( cases produced) and what they call the “X Factor” or excitement level.

In this year’s list, 12 countries were represented, with the average wine score of 93 on the 100 point scale. The average cost per bottle was $44.

Before we list the top ten (my editors would balk at giving me two pages for the top 100), a couple of interesting points. Aside from California which had 28 in the top 100, Italy came in 2nd with 20, ahead of the 3rd most popular, France. The most popular grape varietal was Cabernet Sauvignon in a tie with Pinot Noir. What wasn’t clear but was clearly evident was the performance of Sangiovese, the signature wine of Tuscany, the wine capital of Italy. Tuscany had 10 in the top 100. a victory for the wineries that bottle Sangiovese and its premium clone, Brunello.

I also want to note that the annual TASTE OF WINE Top Ten Tastes will publish the week of January 1st. We continue to search for the very best wines for the dollar and will continue to so until the deadline of December 25th.

Wine Spectator’s Top Ten:

1- Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma 2009. $52.

2- Kathryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 2008. $90.

3- Domaine Huet Loire Valley France, 2009. $69.

4- Campogiovanni Brunello Di Montalcino, 2006. $50.

5- Dehlinger Pinot Noir Sonoma, 2008. $50.

6- Baer Ursa Blend Columbia Valley Washington, 2008. $35.

7- Quinta do Vallado Touriga Douro Portugal, 2008. $55.

8- Domenico Clerico Barolo Italy, 2006. $90.

9- Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage Syrah Rhone France, 2009. $55.

10- Chateu de St-Cosme Gigondas Grenache France, 2009. $58.

Vigilucci’s Piemonte-Inspired White Truffle Dinner

When the world’s leading producer of Italian Barolo Wines comes to San Diego County, that’s Beni di Batasiolo, it chooses the leading Italian Restaurant Group, and that’s Vigilucci’s. This night was special since all menu offerings were laced with truffle mushrooms. These elusive delicacies are at times priced up to $500. per truffle.

The white, or as the Italians call them “Tarufi” Truffles, are the gourmet sought-after treasures in Northern Italy that are served shaved.

Vigilucci’s expertly presented them in dishes such as: Asparagus with Cauliflower Soup, Fettuccine Pasta with Poached Egg, and a grilled Filet Mignon with Polenta.

Stefano Poggi of Beni di Batasiolo, tastes the Barolo Reserva 2004, before serving at Vigilucci’s Carlsbad.

The wine to match the steak was the Barolo Riserva Batasiolo DOCG 2004. This wine is made from the Nebbiolo grape grown on the hills of Serralunga d’Alba in the Barolo District of Piemonte, Italy. It’saged in oak for 3 years followed by a minimum 2 years in bottle prior to release. ($64.). Batasiolo also makes Barbera and Dolcetto, among others. See their story at www.batasiolo.com.

Wine Bytes

Bel Vino Winery, formerly Stuart Cellars in Temecula, has a Jingle and Mingle Holiday Party Fri. Dec. 16 from 6 to 9pm. Live entertainment, appetizers, wines and ports will be served with ice cream. $30. pp. Call 951-676-6414.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido presents their annual Holiday Grand Tasting Sat. Dec. 17 from 3 to 6pm. Over 100 wines will be spotlighted. Advance purchase of $30. Call 760-745-1200.

Wines from Tuscany are being served at Bacchus downtown San Diego Fri. Dec. 16 from 4 to 8:30pm, including some Brunellos and Chianti Classicos. Cost is $25. Find out more at 619-236-0005.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos opens up Wines That Make Great Gifts on Fri. Dec. 16, anytime between 4 pm to 10pm. $15. fee Call 760-744-2119 for details.

Orfila Winery in Escondido celebrates with Holiday in the Vines, with music, entertainment, wine and food, on Sun. Dec. 18 from 6 to 9pm. Classic rock and classic holiday songs from the Aftershock Seven. RSVP at 760-738-6500 x 20.

New Dining Critic at San Diego Magazine

San Diego’s leading lifestyle publication, announced today the addition of Troy Johnson to the editorial team as the new Editor-at-Large and Dining Critic. Johnson, a native San Diegan, is an award-winning food writer, nationally published author and writer and host of Crave, a primetime series on Food Network.

“Troy’s expert restaurant and food knowledge is a natural fit for the magazine and our digital platform,” says Jim Fitzpatrick, CEO & Publisher of San Diego Magazine, “We are extremely excited to have him on board and we know that he will be a strong addition to our editorial team.”

Johnson will primarily cover the city’s food scene—from restaurant reviews to trends, essays, and real-deal journalism on food issues. He will also lend his editing style, media savvy and his trademark humor and voice to the magazine as a whole.

“I’ve always read San Diego Magazine,” says Johnson, “When I was a kid, it seemed permanently attached to our coffee table. I’m thrilled to continue focusing on San Diego’s food scene as it is the best of both worlds—it’s finally progressive enough to be interesting, but it’s not oversaturated like New York or San Francisco. There’s plenty of room for weird, funky, creative, innovative plates of awesomeness.”

Previously, Johnson helped launch San Diego CityBeat as its arts and culture editor. He also developed, wrote and hosted an Emmy-winning music TV show, Fox Rox, in addition to writing stories for SPIN, Rolling Stone, Billboard and Surfer. In 2008, he came out with a nationally published memoir, Family Outing. Between 2009 and 2011, he won seven first place awards for food writing for San Diego Press Club, Society of Professional Journalists and the Orange County Press Club. Most recently, he had dual roles in Riviera San Diego Magazine for 4 years as their Senior Editor and food writer.

“He’s become the defining voice of our city’s food community,” says Erin Chambers Smith, Editor-in-Chief of San Diego Magazine. “His writing is whip smart and his perspective on food and dining is insightful, but there isn’t a lot of pretension there—a rare thing among food writers. That’s the thing so ‘San Diego’ about his character that’s going to hit home with our readers. I am thrilled to have Troy and his tweets on our team.”

Wine & Food Pairing on the Shores of La Jolla

by Frank Mangio

The Marine Room along the La Jolla Shores is the only restaurant I know that publishes the tide reports, with the times, dates and how high tides will be. For instance, Saturday December 10, high tide will be at 8:09 am at 6.9 feet. You see, Marine Room dining is on the surf, with waves crashing against the floor-to-ceiling windows, normally during breakfast at this time of the year.

The highest tide of the year is the middle of June about 8:30pm. The tide got too big and harsh in 1982 when waves forced their way into the dining room. After upgrades, the restaurant became world-renowned for its surf views and elegant dining. The cuisine has been taken to a new level of adventure and excellence by Executive Chef Bernard Guillas and Chef de Cuisine Ron Oliver. They offer global cuisine rooted in French Classics. The accolades keep coming for Guillas.

Bernard Guillas, Executive Chef of The Marine Room in La Jolla talking to attendees

at the recent Gourmet Experience in Del Mar.

He and Oliver have co-authored a book that’s flying off the shelves, Flying Pans, Two Chefs One World. “The book is about our travels around the world. I have been to 50 countries,” he explained. “The color photography is amazing, and the recipes are the most creative we could find. It’s designed for food lovers who love to cook at home.”

I asked him about how the book is being accepted. “Our first year in print, last year, it received an award as one of the top ten cookbooks in competition with over 10,000 entries. This year we took the Peoples Choice Award for the Best Cookbook in America,” he beamed.

Guillas believes that San Diego County is the best farming community in America for fresh, quality ingredients. “There are 45 Farmers Markets in the city. I am doing the Farmers Market Report in the media,” he said.

It allows him to offer exotic dishes like my choice: Ginger Kalbi Glazed Cobia, with blue crab rice timbale, bok choy, and honshimeji tangerine sauce. It was served with a Pinot Noir wine from New Zealand.

One of the Marine Room dinner menu favorites is the Ginger Kalbi Glazed Cobia.

“Cobia is a fish from the east coast and I glazed it with Kalbi, made from sugar, soy, ginger and cilantro,” he revealed. “You must let it marinade for days. There is also blue crab meat and mushrooms on the side, over black Thai Rissoto. It’s a recipe from South Korea, although the sauce is French.”

Another menu item that caught my attention was the Pistachio Curry Crusted Rack of Lamb, presented with a Zinfandel from Sonoma.

The Marine Room is a rich dining tradition in La Jolla with a menu that reflects global influences from an executive chef and book author who has been there. Every dinner experience is a special occasion, with spectacular ocean views. For more information and reservations, call 858-459-7222, or visit www.marineroom.com.

Wine Bytes

Canapes in San Marcos has some innovations for its restaurants. On Sundays it’s "no cost" wine night when you purchase an entrée. Wednesdays it’s half price wine bottles. Entertainment on weekend evenings. Call 760-510-2088.

Vigilucci’s in Encinitas is planning a Taste of Venice Wine Dinner for Thurs. Dec. 8 at 6:30pm. It’s an Italian style feast featuring Amarone Wines. $65. pp. Call 760-632-7332 for an RSVP.

Big Zinfandels are the highlight at the weekly wine event at Bacchus Wine Market, downtown San Diego on Fri. Dec. 9 from 4-8:30pm. 7 giant Zins will be tasted, for a $15. fee. Call 619-236-0005.

Holiday Wine Cellar of Escondido has a premier tasting from 3 to 6pm on Sat. Dec. 12 to the 17th. Admission is $30. RSVP at 760-745-1200.

Country Cellars in Julian has a port and eggnog event Sat. Dec. 17 and Sun. Dec. 18 from 11 to 4pm. Located on Hwy. 78. Call 760-765-0089. Cost is $6.

West and Bistro West in Carlsbad has a Holiday Open House Sun. Dec.8 from 5 to 8pm. Santa and carriage rides, carolers and facepainting. Toys for Tots unwrapped gift requested. For more information, call 866-431-9378