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A French Connection at Pamplemousse Grille

by Frankj Mangio

How do you say “WOW” in French? I had just seen the film Midnight in Paris when my assignment schedule had me at the door of Pamplemousse Grille in Del Mar. If you caught the movie, it has the main character experience surreal flashbacks to the era of the golden 20’s in Paris, where the food and wine were magnets for writers, actors, fashion divas and musicians to hang out and create great conversation. Such a scene can and does occasionally happen at

Pamplemousse on the strength of celebrity chef-owner Jeffrey Strauss. This man has a flair for presentation and a talent for taste. He has wowed foreign dignitaries, U.S. Presidents and top socialites. “Food presentation is both power and art,” he asserted. “Here, we have the casual yet elegant atmosphere of a French farmhouse with food and wine that delights all the senses.” When I photographed Strauss and his General Manager Steve Ermst, he held up a case of

Chateau Petrus, the sonorous Right Bank star-quality wine from Bordeaux’s Pomerol and the best reflection of a Merlot based French Vineyard. It was fitting. Of the 1,417 Red wine selections in the menu, there are 75 from the world-class Bordeaux appellation.

G.M. Steve Ernst and Chef-Owner Jeffrey Strauss of the French- inspired Pamplemousse Grille in Del Mar.

Of the spectacular food offerings at Pamplemousse, I would recommend the Smoked Fish Medley, a premier plate of smoked salmon, cold smoked and roasted jumbo prawn, day boat scallop and petite lobster tail, finished with pepper and caviar infusion. The wine enveloped and elevated the flavor. It was a Tantara 2007 Chardonnay from the Central California Coastal legendary vineyard, Bien Nacido.

The menu is seasonal, each one with an inspiring French flair that has earned Pamplemousse local and national awards.

The Smoked Fish Medley is a Pamplemousse Grille specialty with four styles of seafood delicacies.

Pamplemousse and Jeffrey Strauss have been selected to cater for the 30th Anniversary Season Gala for the North Coast Repertory Theatre Sunday April 12 at the Rancho Santa Fe Garden Club. Auctions, entertainment and fabulous wines will spice up the occasion. Contact 858-481-2155 x 211 for details. And for more information on Pamplemousse Grille, visit www.pgrille.com.

Five to Add to your Wine Cellar

It’s an all-red, all-California sweep since the last list was posted in early February. Three big California-centric wine shows in the last month helped my decision-making: 
The Paso Robles Road Show and the Pacific Symphony Benefit in Orange County, and the Family Winemakers Show in San Diego County brought new and exciting releases to the wine industry and the public.

Quality, value and accessibility are major considerations in selections so here goes, in alphabetical order:

Bacio Divino Blend, Cabernet Sauvignon and small amounts of Sangiovese, Petite Sirah and Merlot, Napa Valley, 2007. $80. The biggest buzz at the Family Wine Show. Dark, ruby color with muscle. Means “divine kiss” in Italian. It will leave you in love.

Conundrum California Red Wine Blend, Napa Valley, 2009. $20. The Wagner Family of Caymus fame produced this magical wine after great success with their popular white blend.

Fort Ross Pinot Noir Reserve, Sonoma Coast, 2007. $49. Dense, garnet hue with a focus on the black currents and orange pekoe tea notes. Vineyard produces mountain wine high above the Pacific.

Markham Merlot, Napa Valley, 2006. $18. Elegant wine from St. Helena restoring dignity to the Merlot name. Black raspberry notes.

Opolo Summit Creek Zinfandel, Paso Robles, 2010. $15. Fruit forward characteristics of black cherry, raspberry and old spice.

Wine Bytes

Orfila Winery in Escondido premiers “Feel Good Fridays” March 30 from 3:30 to 5:30pm with live music and bottle specials. Call 760-738-6500 x22.

Bacchus Wine Market, downtown San Diego presents High End Cabernet , Fri. March 30 from 4 to 8:30pm. $35. pp. Includes premium Bordeaux, Super Tuscans and Napa Valley. Call 619-236-0005.

Free Jazz on Sundays starts up at Falkner Winery in Temecula, Sun. Apr. 1 from Noon to 3pm. Chairs & tables available for wine and food. Details at 951-676-8231.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas opens up Italian wines for their tastings on Fri. Apr. 6 from 6 to 8pm. Take the flight to Italy for $20. pp. Details at 760-479-2500.

Deep in the Heart of the Jarvis Wine Cave

by Frank Mangio

William and Leticia Jarvis are unlikely Napa Valley wine owners. He was raised in a “dry” state, Oklahoma, and she was raised in Pueblo Mexico. After mutual successes in business, they met, married and adopted France for a part time residence.

The Jarvis’s developed a passion for Bordeaux Reds and gravitated to the Napa Valley where in the 1980’s they purchased 37 acres of vineyards. In 1995 they developed the stunning underground 45,000 square foot cave-inspired Jarvis Estate Winery, located East of Napa and tunneled into the Vaca Mountains. It has an underground stream and magnificent waterfall.

The “Crystal Chamber” is lit with large amethyst crystals and a large ballroom holds memorable galas, including the American Wine Classic Auction Napa Valley Barrel Tasting and Auction, planned this year for June 1st.

Leticia and William Jarvis welcome visitors to their magnificent Jarvis Estate Wine Cave in the Napa Valley.

The deepest chamber of the cave is bigger than two basketball courts allowing all fermentation tanks and other processing equipment to be underground. The stream and underground water system maintain a humidity level at an ideal level for barrel aging.

Since 2008, Ted Henry has been the winemaker, closest to the daily care needed for high quality, crafted bottles. He is fortunate to have Dimitri Tchelistcheff, considered the wisest scholar of Napa winemaking, as his consultant winemaker. He is a member of the Vintner’s Hall of Fame. Tchelistcheff began his winemaking career some 68 years ago. He has done it all!

Jarvis varietals include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay and Tempranillo. The winery produces 9,000 cases a year. TASTE OF WINE recommends the 2007 Lake William Blend, with 93 points from Wine Enthusiast. The 2005 Reserve Cabernet has a 94 point award from Wine Enthusiast and 92 points from Robert Parker.

For more information on Jarvis Estate Winery, visit www.jarviswines.com, or call 1-800-255-5280.

Fresh Casual is the Way to Go for Restaurants

The front-runners in the competition for the restaurant dollar are clearly fresh, farm to table cuisine, simply done and served. The food is locally sourced and nutritionally natural. Meat, fish, produce, all with a seasonal flair, have caught the wave of diner favor.

The wineries have connected with savvy chefs who respect what wines can do for food. They spend valuable time tasting wines and presenting menu items that match up with a Pinot Noir, Cabernet or Merlot.

American food and wine palates are more adventurous than ever, thanks to TV Food channels, chefs and wait-help in restaurants that can spin the nutritional, natural flavors of food and wine in these fresh-casual formats.

Light Italian such as Rosotto, Gnocchi and Caprese seem to top many casual menu lists, as well as wood oven-baked pizzas Margherita style, with light cheese, tomato, sweet basil and a dash of “funghi” ( mushrooms.)

Pascal Vignau who ran the popular casual comfort food restaurant Savory in Encinitas, will now be Executive Chef of Chandler’s in the new Hilton Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa.

The hotels and resorts have sat up and taken notice of these trends. The new still-being-built Hilton Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa with Carlsbad beach views from its Chandler’s Restaurant site, has brought in Executive Chef Pascal Vignau, who brought Savory to Encinitas 8 years ago. He is widely known for his simple, brilliant style of comfort food, brought together with seasonal menus and world-class wines. The trend to fresh casual menus is going uptown.

Wine Bytes

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is going with Spicy Reds: Grenache, Syrah and Zin at its event on Fri. March 24 at 6pm. 6 reds offered. Get your spice for $20 ea. More info at 760-479-2500.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos has a couple of fun tastings Wed. March 28 from 5pm with a Sangria Party from 5pm for $10.; then an Italian Wine Party on Fri. March 30 from 4pm for $10. This one has special pizzas and calzones. Call 760-744-2119 for details.

Europa Village in Temecula Wine Country presents a Sommelier Workshop with wine & food basics on Tues. March 20 from 6 to 7:30pm. Learn new trends on how to make wine and food dance. $49. pp. RSVP at 951-216-3380.

Cal State San Marcos presents Managing Wine Style from Grape Production to Bottle Sat. March 31 from 9am to 4pm. This seminar includes 6 Pinot Noir tastings, lunch & refreshments. $75. ea. Call Jill at 760-750-8705.

A Blend of Fine Wine and Fine Living in the Heart of Temecula

by Frank Mangio

The intimate world of cultivating fine wine and fine resort living recently crossed paths for me in the rich, country life of Temecula. It’s a great life when you can experience a memorable occasion on a given day, but when two such experiences present themselves, the stars are in true alignment.

In a personal“hands-on” experience into the world of winemaking, owner and winemaker Nick Palumbo of the Palumbo Family Vineyard and Winery, collaborated with the nearby Temecula Creek Inn, the pristine golf course inspired 350 acre resort, with upscale dining and woven into the wine country of Temecula. Similar in philosophy, Palumbo is all about quality, handcrafted production that goes into his offerings.

Temecula, with its rolling hills and awakening Winter/Spring vines are an especially awe-inspiring sight as winemakers like Palumbo carefully craft the pruning process, setting the table for the fruit of the later months. The management at Temecula Creek Inn, recently provided this guest experience in an Inn sponsored “Grape to Glass” first-of-a-series wine tour, complete with a lesson on effective pruning from Nick Palumbo.

Under a brilliant morning sun, Palumbo told us of his simple philosophy for rich, complex wines. “I produce only what I grow myself,” he asserted. “I keep my yields low and I enjoy sharing what we do here. Less is more when it comes to quality. We have 13 acres under vine and sell 2,500 cases of artisinal wine, farmed without compromise.”

Owner and winemaker Nick Palumbo points out the re-shaping and re-forming on the vine branches, critical to the growth of wine grapes.

He and his wife Cindy and family live on the property and I was fascinated by his disclosure of how each of the several hills and gullies have their own varietals, microclimates and timetable for pruning during the dormant winter season. “The low spots are the last to get pruned, to guard against frost,” he said. “When budding begins, we will see it first in the Cab Franc and Merlot, then the Sangiovese grapes really pop fast. They love the terrior here.”

Palumbo bought an existing 7 acre vineyard and home in 1998. He applied his Sicilian ancestry and a 24/7 mentality to learning as much as he could about winemaking, bought more land next door and in 2002 opened the winery.

Here are two Palumbo wines that capture the essence and style of this lovely winery:

- The 2009 Sangiovese ($34.) that Palumbo describes as “summertime in a bottle.” Taste light cherry flavors, along with roasted tomato and earthy spices.

- The 2008 Tre Fratelli, 3 brothers in Italian ($42.) A traditional blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Taste the class and elegance of toasted vanilla and caramel with black cherry and plum palate-taste.

Temecula Creek Inn and Nick Palumbo are planning the 2nd part of “Wine to Glass” Friday September 28 on Harvesting, and the 3rd part November 9 on Blending. Call Temecula Creek Inn for details at 877-517-1823.

Wine Bytes

VINZ Wine Bar and Club in Escondido has a St Patricks Day show on Sat. March 17 from 6 to 11:30pm featuring Heloise Love & the Lacemakers with Irish folk music. RSVP for one of two shows at 760-743-8466.

The San Diego Chapter of the American Wine Society has its next meeting open to the public on Sun. March 18 at San Diego Wine Storage in Solana Beach at 2pm. The wines of Virginia will be featured. The state is the 5th largest producer of wine in the country. Tasting fee of $17. for members, $20. for non-members. E mail an RSVP at sdchapter.aws40@yahoo.com.

Baker & Olive Encinitas is partnering with La Villa in Little Italy San Diego for an olive oil, balsamic & wine pairing dinner Tues. March 20 from 6 to 9pm. Cost is $65. pp. RSVP at 619-255-5221.

Wine Vault and Bistro in San Diego has a Tablas Creek Winemaker Dinner with Jason Haas, Tues. March 20 from 5:45pm to 9 pm then again on Wed. March 21 same time. Five wines served. $49.50 ea. Call 619-295-3939 for a seat.

The legendary Napa Valley Howell Mountain appellation is coming to San Francisco for a 30-winery tasting on Wed. March 21. Trade and media 2 to 6:30pm, public 4-6:30pm at Bently Reserve. Public price is $55. pp. Call them at 707-965-2665.