Unlocking the Flavor of Viognier

by Frank Mangio
It is safe to say that you can walk into a room full of wine aficionados that love to talk up their favorite wines and ask the first person you come across to say something nice about Viognier ( VEE-ohn-yay ) .  They will look at you funny and offer you a Chardonnay.

Those of you who have been with me and TASTE OF WINE over the years have either embraced my love of Viognier, or thought I should see a wine doctor about this silly fetish for the lovely tropical fruit white wine that almost never shows up on the shelves.  No, it not a Central American white grape, not even a South American native with its pineapple, peach and mango flavors.

Viognier’s original growing area is the Northern Rhone Valley of Southern France, where it is the white wine of choice.  Acidity levels are low and it’s almost always cool-fermented in steel tanks for full tropical fruitiness.

Rock Wall Wine Company, the California Bay Area winery is the latest to feature Viognier. It arrived in California in small quantities in the 80’s with interest in growing it now limited to wineries in the Lodi-Mendocino, Monterey, Paso Robles and San Diego areas.

The Rock Wall Wine Company, operated by the Rosenblaum Family of Sonoma is pulling Viognier Grapes from vineyards in Lodi and Mendocino for a mélange of flavors for its 2010 Kristen’s Cuvee ($20.)  Flavors of pineapple and fresh sugar cane bring up an exclusive taste. (www.rockwallwines.com)

Further south in Monterey, the Marilyn Remark Winery has a 2009 Loma Pacific Viognier ($26.).  Only 175 cases were made of this drink- now wine.  The alcohol is a bit high at 14.2% but the balance of flavor is there for a bigger bang ( www.remark.com).  Paso Robles boasts the best Rhone Valley French style winery in California in Tablas CreekVineyard and their intense Viognier blend that teams up with Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Rousanne for the 2010 Patelin de Tablas Blanc ($20.).  Great floral aromas with a peaches-apricot taste combination. (www.tablascreek.com).

The San Diego area got a strong assist in getting on the wine map when the late Leon Santoro, who was the long-time wine maker for Orfila Winery in Escondido, embraced the Rhone Valley brand of wine and Viognier.  About 6 years ago, and after my personal urging, he entered his non-vintage Estate “Lotus” Viognier in the 2007 International Challenge du Vin in Bordeaux France and won the Gold Medal! It had small amounts of Rousanne and Marsanne white grapes, also from the Rhone Valley.  Justin Mund, Orfila’s current wine maker has his 2010 tasting beautifully with elements of apricot, pear and honeysuckle ($29.).  (www.orfila.com)

Viognier has a unique charm about it.  A little patience in your search and you just may find your next great-tasting white wine.

BV Docks in Coronado at Il Fornaio
The invitation read “BV Reserve Wine Dinner.”  I had visions of Il Fornaio’s Italian style bayside restaurant, with a Mediterranean menu, sipping George de Latour red from BV’s winery in Napa Valley, and I was immediately there with my favorite fedora.

Luca Allieri is the hospitable empressario of Il Forniao, making sure everyone is happy and having a good time with his wines and food.  Along with Chef Giorgio LoVerde. he presented entrees that perfectly paired with the BV portfolio of wines. They included:  Tricolore Di Pesce , a pan seared salmon; and Cervo Al Datteri, a roasted venison chop finished in a date balsamic reduction with porcini, mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus.  It was served with a 2009 BV Cabernet.

The wine thrill of the evening, the 2007 George de Latour was served with a chocolate soufflé with vanilla gelato.  WOW…(What…O-what-a- Wine) !  For an RSVP at Il Fornaio, call 619-437-4911.

 Luca Allieri and Giorgio LoVerde of Il Fornaio Coronado.

Wine Bytes
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has a Rhone Valley Grenache and Syrah tasting event Fri. Aug. 31 from 6 to 8pm. Check price and wines at 760-479-2500.

The Grand Del Mar continues its concert series Sun. Sept 2 with Steve Tyrell, the Grammy award winner best know for his Sinatra style singing.  General seating $65. with VIP seating $95.  Tickets by calling 800-820-9884.

Falkner Winery in Temecula offers Labor Day weekend jazz and lunch at their Pinnacle Restaurant Sat. and Sun. Sept. 1 and 2.The jazz is free, from Noon to 3pm.  New release wines are available.  Reserve a lunch at 951-676-8231 x 1.

Grape Day Park in Escondido has a wine festival at their pavilion Sat. Sept. 8 from 11 to 3pm.  Cost is $20. to taste wines from San Diego County wineries.  Information at 760-839-4587.

Twisted Vine in San Diego, off the 56 Highway, offers the wines of Spain Sat. Sept. 15 and 29 at 4pm.  Includes Tempranillo, Crianza and Rioja Vina Valoria.  Lite bites included.  Call 858-780-2501 for cost.

The Wine Trail of Don Quixote

by Frank Mangio
Don Quixote is a character in a 17th century novel, a thin country gentleman who studies medieval stories full of knights, cavalry, jousting and castles.  He believes he has been called upon to change the world and goes out to do battle in the name of his lady love who stands for perfection and purity…a very selective vision of the real world.  Welcome to the wine country of Don Quixote’s Spain…La Mancha.

Castilla-La Mancha is a beautiful wine region located in the center of Spain, the largest vineyard in the world with over 1,240,000 acres under vine.  There are 46 grape varieties grown in this massive area, up to now little known in the outside world.  Some are well-known like Cabernet Sauvignon.  Others like Tinto Velasco wait for their time.

Juan Jose Cerdan Gerente offers a taste of his Vina Cerron at the recent Don Quixote Grape Trail Wine Expo Tour in San Diego.

Beside the rich lime and chalkstone soil, there are many more hours of daylight, some 3,500 hours a year, providing a “luminocity” for longer hours of grape ripening without overheating.  This leads to flavor balance without a strong alcohol presence.  These are wines of high minerality and earthiness with a bright acidity.

Two stand-outs, of the 26 wines offered at the showing, were the Vina Cerron “Remordimiento,” a red blend with Tempranillo, Cabernet, Petit Verdot and Shiraz with tasty and smoky flavors; and AurumRed, a 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon that has been awarded 97 points by France’s most prestigious wine guide.

Spanish winemakers continue to respect the wisdom of traditional ways of making wine and they benefit from the flavors that result, especially in Castilla-La Mancha, a wine country 100 times larger than Napa Valley.  See more at www.tierradevinedos.org.


Brian Malarky is a Chef on Fire
Super TopChef Brian Malarky, who, faster than a speeding bullet, has recently opened Herringbone in La Jolla, his 5th restaurant with managing partner James Brennan.

It joins Searsucker, Burlap, Gingham and Gabardine in San Diego County in a hip, casual, marketplace-bazaar format, each with their own culinary experience.  All have opened in the past two years. The everyday food operation is under the supervision of chef de cuisine Amanda Bumgarten, a finalist on Bravo TV’s Top Chef Season 7.  Malarky playfully calls the format “Fish Meats Field.”
I asked him about his restaurants in a Q&A recently.

Taste Of Wine:  What’s the idea behind naming your restaurants after fabrics?
Malarky:  Searsucker was named for my love of wearing a seersucker suit to the racetracks. My restaurants designer and I decided to have fun with it and continue naming them after a fabric.
Taste Of Wine:  I love hats and wear them a lot as you do.  What’s your favorite hat?
Malarky:  I’m an old-school Goorn Bros. straw fedora guy.  The more worn and miles it has, the better.

Brian Malarky with his new American Classic Cuisine and one of a kind wines has added a 5th restaurant, Herringbone, in La Jolla.

Taste Of Wine:  When you’re away from your restaurants, what meal with wine would you make for yourself?

Marlarky:  Rotisserie Chicken and a side of artichokes, paired with Brie and a baguette, with a nice bottle of Sauvignon Blanc.

After several positions in restaurants around the country, Malarky opened downtown San Diego’s Oceanaire as Executive Chef in 2004.  He then starred in Bravo TV’s Top Chef 3 Miami where he advanced to the finals, gaining national fame for his culinary talents and high energy. When I sat down to sample Herringbone, it was with an Alaskan Halibut with farro, oyster mushroom and topped with hazelnut, after a fascinating spinach salad with feta and bacon balsamic.

The star of the wine menu was a Napa Valley Spring Mountain ’08 Syrah called Schoolhouse. All five of the Malarky Restaurants now offer half-off bottles of wine and no corkage fee on Tuesday nights.  Check out Herringbone at www.herringboneeats.com.

Wine Bytes
Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego has their Anniversary Wine Tasting Party Sat. Aug. 25 from 5 to 9pm.  They promise a fabulous lineup of wines, food and live music including a 6-liter bottle of Imperial Bordeaux for a $25. fee. Call 619-236-0005.

Europa Village Winery in Temecula is hosting a Fiesta De Noche Musical Wine Dinner, Sat. Aug. 25 from 6:30 to 9pm.  Cost is $85. pp.  RSVP at 951-216-3380.

Bistro West Carlsbad presents an Orin Swift Wine Dinner Tues. Aug. 28 at 6:30pm.  Wine pours include Mannequin, Saldo, The Prisoner and Papillion.  $75. ea.  RSVP at 760-930-8008.

La Costa Wine Company is pouring a Robert Craig Winery Pre Release of Napa Valley Cabs and a Chardonnay, Wed. Aug. 29 from 6 to 8pm.  RSVP only at 760-431-8646.

Belle Marie Wine and Culinary Campus has its Grand Opening Sat. Sept. 1 to Mon. Sept 3 from Noon to 3pm ea. day. Free admission and entertainment, with food available. You can now taste different wines from at least 8 wineries in one place. Details at 760-796-7557.

Music and Wine Blend Well Together

by Frank Mangio
I have a special place in my wine columns for musicians who have made it in the mad world of rock n roll, then turned to what they thought was the more serene, relaxed life of making wine…until they made their first bottle and got way more excited. There is a meaningful bond that links these two dynamics together and the talent and passion that created pop music hits, can be applied to creating great wines.

Lee Rocker of the 80’s musical groupThe Stray Cats that sold over 10 million albums, has introduced his new wine called Rockabilly Red, a 100% 2008 vintage Syrah from Napa Valley.

An interview I had a few years ago with the legendary rocker Mick Fleetwood of Fleetwood Mac brought this home, when he embellished on Robert Mondavi’s priceless quotethat wine is like “Poetry in a Bottle.” Fleetwood’s take on the subject is that the creativity of the process of making wine and songs are no sure thing and in both, you have to hold your breath and hope the public accepts what you present, while you scream for acceptance.

The latest adventure of a pop musician bringing a new and exciting wine to market is Rockabilly Red,( $35.) created and owned by Lee Rocker of the 80’s Rockabilly band, The Stray Cats. The group scorched the charts with famous songs like “Rock This Town” and “Stray Cat Strut,” and despite several break-ups, Rocker still tours to this day.

Rocker collaborates on his Rockabilly Red with Kristian Story, the Napa Valley winemaker who creates hand-crafted, unfiltered big, bold wines from small lots that express individual character.  His location near St. Helena is considered the most intense fruit in the valley.  Rockabilly Red is barrel aged 24 months in new French Oak and is a well balanced, muscular 15.3% alcohol wine, mating up with BBQ Pork, Pizza and of course, Rock n Roll.

I caught up with Rocker in Temecula at Ponte Winery’s new Cellar Lounge and he had this to say about his new wine. “It was a blast working with Kristian.  You know, it’s a lot like Rock n Roll in a way.  The people who make wine and the people who make rock n roll have the passion and the love in what they do and hope that it shows in the end result.  The personalties are so similar.” Don Harbour of Golden  Crown Productions in Temecula handles marketing and has set up Artists Wine to handle orders for Rockabilly Red.

Lee Rocker will be headlining a special concert at Wiens Family Cellars in Temecula, Friday August 24th starting at 7pm.  Tickets are on sale for the event through Golden Crown Productions, with General Admission $45., VIP General Admission $95. and VIP Tables for 4 are $395. each. Access www.goldencrownproductions.com/buy-tickets/  or phone 888-276-4008.

Tolosa Wines Featured at Rossi’s San Marcos
Rossi’s Italian Restaurant in San Marcos doesn’t do many special wine dinners, but when they do, I pay attention. Owner Marshall Bryer finds little-known but high quality wineries, mainly in the Central Coast area of California and spotlights them, such as his latest find, Tolosa Winery.  Tolosa is sustainably farmed in the Edna Valley of San Luis Obispo. The cool ocean breezes and long summers define the vineyards. Rossi’s started out with a lovely Caesar Salad with Tolosa’s ’09 Chardonnay. ($25.) Natural Pear and Apple flavors dominate.

Marshall Bryer of Rossi’s in San Marcos recently presented Tolosa Wines at his Italian restaurant.

The other signature wine from Tolosa is Pinot Noir ($30.)  Between the two, they make up 80% of the estate vineyard.  Rossi’s selected Chicken Parmesan as a mate. The ’09 had solid quality and good production, according to winemaker Larry Brooks.  He likens each harvest to “dancing with a new partner that you know very little about, so you have to figure out their unique moves to get the best results.”  See more about Tolosa at www.tolosawinery.com.

Wine Bytes
San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Rd. is having a Taste of Oregon, Sat. Aug. 18 from 11 to 4pm.  Cost is $10. ea.  Call 858-586-9463.

Temecula Wine Country’s newest improvement is Callaway Vineyard and Winery.  See the new upper deck Sat. Aug. 18 at their Taste of Summer Seminar, from 10am to 12:30pm.  Learn about fermentation and the winemaking process.  Call 951-676-4001 for cost.

3rd Corner in Encinitas  brings Andrew Lane Wines of Napa Valley in for a wine dinner Tues. Aug. 21 at 6pm.  $65. pp.  Details at 760-942-2104.

Orfila Winery in Escondido presents its annual GRAPESTOMP, Sat. Aug. 25 from 4 to 8pm.  Includes wine tasting, dinner buffet, grape stomping, live music and tractor rides.  $85. pp, $68. for club members.  Call 800-868-9463 or visit www.orfila.com.

A Wine Oasis in the Desert

by Frank Mangio
Odd place for a wine renaissance, but on closer examination, the Palm Desert, Palm Springs, La Quinta resort areas are blooming attractions for the wine crowd.  An enormous amount of restaurants serve a growing population and increased visitor count, and guess what, the Palm Desert COSTCO has the 2nd largest wine department in the chain, right behind Carlsbad in San Diego County.

Palm Desert is one of my favorite get-a-ways and when I go, I have an eye open for the latest developments at the JW Marriott’s Desert Springs Resort.  The latest trip was a real eye-opener as they are celebrating their 25th year with an upscale building program for their restaurants and wine bar.
Paul Bologna conducts the best wine tastings south of Napa Valley and he produces the wine programs at Desert Springs.  Actually he spent the first part of his wine career working in Napa Valley so he closely follows those wines.

JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort Sommelier Paul Bologna conducts Boat Dock Wine Tastings most days of the month.

The day I participated, Bologna was profiling Full Bodied Reds From Napa Valley.  A  $50. charge got you five luscious reds and a delicious artisan cheese tasting.  The wines were all “mountain wines:”  merlots, cabernets and blends from Mt. Veeder, Pride Mt., Diamond Mt. and Pine Mt. I was struck by the power and finesse of the J. Davies Cabernet from Diamond Mt., a 2008 that retails for $80.  “We love Napa Valley small producers,” exclaimed Bologna.  Most are 100 case producers or less, and both our wine and food suppliers are all from California.”

Ciprian Orian is the enthusiastic restaurant manager of the new Rockwood Grill and the posh Blue Star Lounge. The Rockwood Grill opens up the dining experience with extra virgin olive oil served with grilled bread.  The salads are home grown in the Coachella Valley.  Mine had greens, shaved apple, fennel, radish, candied pecans, tangerine and pomegranate.  Nicely done.

The San Diego Brandt Farms provided the Filet and it was excellent with sides of grilled asparagus and polenta.

“We are working on a new expansive patio dining concept, adding 80 seats in September,” Orian revealed.  “It will extend into the existing lake and give diners an island sensation.  The Blue Star Lounge will also expand around the dining area, for a total of 468 seats.  Small bites will be big in the lounge area.”   Lots to know about at the web site:  www.desertspringsresort.com.

San Diego’s Little Italy & Enoteca Style Taste Great

It was Open House along India Street in San Diego’s Little Italy recently
as hundreds of visitors, hungry for old world food and drink, descended on nearly 30 restaurants. The new format restaurants are exciting to see and to dine in.  They include: Davanti, a small bites bar with a large inside and outside dining area; ISOLA, a pizza bar with huge blowups of Italian actress Sophia Loren and a red wood-burning pizza oven direct from Naples; Bencotto, an urban dining room featuring take-out and two $12,000. Prosciutto curing and cutting “red wheel” slicers.

ISOLA Pizza Bar is one of the newest Italian food and wine bars in the Little Italy district of San Diego.

Be sure to check out Enoteca Style, owned by chef Scott Thomas, who also owns Salad Style in the Gaslamp District.

The wine list is one of the largest in Little Italy, from sparkling Prosecco to a regal, velvety  Nebbiolo d’Alba, both popular Italian wines.  The food is California fusion with the Italian tradition.  And they do deliver, whether it be fresh, creative paninis, international style salads or full plate entrees such as Tuna Tatare and Roasted Garlic Chicken Meatballs.  Every Wednesday, it’s half price wine night. Have look at www.enotecastyle.com.

Wine Bytes
The 2nd annual San Diego Wine Country Festival returns to Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo Sat. Aug. 11 from 1 to 5pm.  Over 20 wineries will be pouring.  Tickets on line for $25. or day of event for $30.  Full details by calling 858-487-1866 or www.bernardowinery.com.

The 17th annual Mamas Kitchen benefit Wine & Food Tasting is Thurs. Aug. 16 from 6 to 9pm in San Diego.  The organization delivers food daily to the AIDS stricken.  $60. advance, $70. day of event.  Call 619-233-6262.

Europa Village Winery in Temecula has a Celebrity Art event  Sun. Aug. 19 from 11 to 3pm.  Art viewing and live music are free to the public.  Wines available for purchase.  Details by calling 951-216-3380.

The San Diego Spirits Festival is Sat. Aug. 25 and Sun. Aug. 26 from 1 to 6pm, on the Broadway Pier in San Diego.  This is the biggest mix of Cocktails, Culinary and Culture on the West Coast. Bands and mixology contests.  Check out prices and other fun stuff at www.sandiegospiritsfestival.com.  Or call 858-551-1605.