Milagro Farm Worth the Back-Country Trip

by Frank Mangio (photos courtesy of Paul Body)

San Diego County is a late-bloomer in the booming California wine industry. Maybe it’s because in my home area, we have been so busy building homes and commercial properties, we forgot our roots: growing and producing wine like the first missionaries in the 16th century. When the Franciscan fathers were sent north and settled in San Diego and Los Angeles, they brought wine grape cuttings from Mexico which were of Spanish origin.

The entrance to the underground cellar at Milagro Farm Vineyards and Winery in Ramona.

The grapes were simply “mission grapes.” The success of these missions and the growth in population prompted secular vineyards and wineries and by the mid 1850’s, with the gold rush and the “go west” movement, wineries were abundant. But where California wine making began, in San Diego County, it took until recently to get it going again.

The county finally made it easier financially to open tasting rooms, but it was really a gathering of serious winemakers to form a true wine country and that country is the Ramona Valley. More than 16 wineries now open their doors to wine tasting. An attractive brochure points out the precise locations with an invitation to “come up and taste the wines of Ramona, a high valley community, located minutes from downtown San Diego in the heart of North County.” Also helping was the area designation as an American Viticultural Area in 2006, allowing wines to be labeled “Ramona Valley.”

At Milagro Farm Vineyards and Winery, Jim Hart is the winemaker. He grew up in the wine business as son of Joe Hart, a legendary name in Temecula Wine County with Hart Winery. Jim still adds to his winemaking duties at his father’s winery. Milagro has already done well in competition.

Milagro winemaker Jim Hart barrel tastes one of his reds with a customer prior to bottling.

Its 100 acres at 2,400 feet in the Ramona high country is suited to white varietals likek Pinot Gri and Chardonnay. Red wine selections include: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of Sangiovese and Barbera called Raggio Rosso and a Meritage with Bordeaux style grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab Franc. I loved the Cab with its full body flavors and prospect for aging.( $32. Wine club price $25.60.) A total of 14 acres are under vine. The tasting room is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 5pm.

See more at www.milagrofarmvineyards.com.

Wine/Food Radio Comes to San Diego-and the Winners in San Francisco

Wine and food veteran journalist Ron James along with show producer Mike Bragg of Taste of Wine TV Network kicks off a “feast for your ears,” a food and wine radio show called Wine & Dine Radio on KFSD AM 1450 radio starting Saturday March 10 from 1 to 2pm.

A team of dedicated wine and food experts will guest on the show, including TASTE OF WINE’S Frank Mangio, poised to get passionate about his favorite wines on the premier show. Now, every Saturday at 1pm, you can get a wealth of information about food and wine. Drink it in on San Diego AM 1450, or you can hear the show on your computers and smart phones available on demand anytime.

The San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, largest judging of American Wines in the world is official, with over 5,500 entries, a record. Best of Class included:

Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards 2006 Carneros Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine $28.

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Finger Lakes Gewurztraminer $24.

Barnard Griffin 2011 Columbia Valley Rose’ of Sangiovese $12.

McGrail Vineyards 2008 Livermore Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve $36.

Castello di Amorosa 2010 Anderson Valley late harvest Gewurztraminer $35.

Wine Bytes

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has its first ever Luau Party Sat. March 10 from 5 to 7pm. A traditional Hawaiian menu with fun new wines. RSVP required-call 760-479-2500. Cost is $35 per guest.

Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas has a Pine Ridge Wine Dinner from 6:30 to 9pm, for $75. a diner. Call 760-635-1066 for details.

Via Italia, downtown Encinitas brings in Wines from Sicily with special guest Silvio di Silvio and a 5 course wine dinner, Thurs. March 15 at 7pm. Cost is $75. Call 760-479-9757.

RELM Wine, Beer and Bistro in Carlsbad presents Grenache-Domestics vs Imports Thurs. March 15 from 6 to 8pm. Four tastings with small bites, for $40 ea. RSVP at 760-434-9463. Look for the new RELM in San Elijo Hills opening soon.

PAON Restaurant and Wine Bar in Carlsbad brings in distinctive wines from South America March 15 to 21 in the wine tasting bar. $16. for six pours. Call 760-729-7377 for times.

Falkner Wins Winemaker Challenge – Featured Winery at Family Winemakers Event

by Frank Mangio

After 12 years of growing grapes and making wine in the Temecula Valley, Ray and Loretta Falkner have hit paydirt: the Best of Show Wine winner at this year’s Winemaker Challenge International Competition in San Diego.

The top award was for the Falkner 2008 Syrah-Rock Creek Vineyard wine ( $34.95.), available at the winery. The wine has strong notes of plum and cocoa with a long, lingering finish. It was the top finisher in a field of 816 entries from over 12 countries. They are tank-tasting their new Viognier, planned for a May release.

Steve Hagata is the winemaker and Ray Falkner the co-owner of Falkner Winery in Temecula Valley.

This winery also received a Silver medal for their 2008 Super Tuscan Amante ($39.95), a Gold for their 2010 Rosato-Rose’ style wine ($14.95) and a Silver for the 2008 Meritage-Bordeaux Blend ($39.95).

“All our grapes are from our Temecula Valley,” Steve declared. ’08 was an elegant year. We use little oak in our wines. We rely on balance of flavor and a well-defined acid structure that makes you want another sip. We use low yields to keep quality control.”

Wine lovers will get their opportunity to taste Falkner and over 150 other family-owned wineries at the Del Mar Fairgrounds on Sunday March 11 from 3 to 6pm, when the Family Winemakers of California present TASTING 2012. Great, well-known wineries will be back with their new releases, as well as new, exciting young winemakers with their creations. This is the singular place and time to do just that.

I love this event for the chance to chat it up with the winemakers and the owners who are there pouring the wines. The vast confines of the main exhibit hall at the fairgrounds allow plenty of elbow room.

Wines and their wineries to look for include: Zinfandel with Ancient Peaks, Frank Family, JC Cellars, Opolo, Saxon Brown, Siduri and Zenaida; Viognier with Cass, Falkner, Niner, Monte De Oro and Tablas Creek. For other varietals look for and try Beaulieu, Fort Ross, Sojourn, Cinnabar, Orfila and Wiens.

Tickets are: $55. each, $65. at the door. They are available at www.familywinemakers.org. More information at 415-707-0646.

For Falkner information: www.falknerwinery.com.

Harvesting More Wine News

Gen 7 Wines revealed that there is a winery in every state in the U.S. and a vineyard in every state except Alaska…”too cold there.”

California wine sales rose 3.3% in 2011 to 212.3 million cases according to Wine Spectator. It’s the highest since 2007. And the nice thing is the average price is bouncing back.

DIVINO TUSCANY is a state of the art 4 day wine event and tour at some of the leading wineries in Tuscany, Italy, May 13 to 17. The hosts have chosen former European Bureau Chief of Wine Spectator James Suckling to personally select all wines and wineries including one owned by music personality STING. Visit medieval villages, acclaimed wineries, enjoy lunches and dinners by top Italian chefs. Stops include Florence, Chianti Classico Tuscany, Montalcino and Bolgheri. Call for more information at 1-800-367-5348, or visit www.foodandwinetrails.com/ultimatetuscany.

TASTE OF WINE has recently partnered with 18 more world-wide web sites to add to its 13 sites featuring the column and videos of producer Frank Mangio on wine. We are really excited about our entry into China with the major site: www.youku.com.

Wine Bytes

The World of Wine Barrel Tasting Event in Temecula Wine Country is Sat. March 3 and Sun. March 4 from 10am to 4:30pm at participating wineries. Visitors will taste wine and food at 30+ wineries. The tour is self-guided through the Temecula Valley. Cost is $99. for the 2 days. Tickets at www.temeculawines.org or call 800-801-9463.

Taste 7 Malbecs at Bacchus Wine Market, downtown San Diego, Sat. March 3 from 2 to 8:30pm. This is Argentina’s signature grape, originally from France. Cost is $15. Phone 619-236-0005.

Sbicca Del Mar presents the Red World Tour of Barbera, Corvina, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and more, Mon. March 6 from 6:30 to 8:30pm. All are from Northern Italy, in a classroom format. 9 wines are tasted. $49. pp. Call 858-442-2749.

Twisted Vine Bistro and Wine Bar off Highway 56 in San Diego has the Michael David Winery Sat. March 10, 4 to 6pm with 5 signature wines and Light Bites paired by Chef Mia. Cost is $35. Check it out at 858-780-2501.

RELM Bistro and Wine Bar in Carlsbad offers Domestic Hidden Gems with over 40 wines available for tasting, Sat. March 10 from 12 to 3pm. Wine reps will answer questions about the wines. Appetizers included in the $20. dollar price. RSVP at 760-434-9463. RELM is adding a location soon in San Elijo Hills!

Paso Wine Country Comes to Southern California

by Frank Mangio

Some 40 wineries in Paso Robles will pick up and move down to sunny Southern California and pop the corks on more than 150 wines aboard the super yacht Majestic, docked in Newport Beach. The date for this “road show” is Wednesday February 29 from 6 to 8pm for the public and 2 to 5pm for the trade.

The super yacht Majestic, docked in Newport Beach

The extra special bonus on this exposition of Paso wine power is that most booths will have the winemakers and owners on hand pouring their own wines.

I have walked the back country of Paso Robles, especially the west side of the 101 and declared this appellation to be gifted with classic properties where soil, climate, elevation and vineyard stock could not be better situated for great wine. The wines tend to be Rhone Valley French with names like Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. In 2010, Wine Spectator chose a Paso Rhone blend as its wine of Paso Robles wine grapes are rich in texture and strongly flavored, such as these Zinfandel grapes.

The blend was harvested and made in 2007, a near-perfect year for Paso wines, with a mild and dry year. A head count now finds over 200 wineries on 26,000 vineyard acres that includes Paso Robles, Templeton, Atascadero and Santa Margarita.

Zinfandel is a favorite with many wine lovers who visit Paso’s wineries. March 16 to 18, the area celebrates its Zin heritage with wine tours and tastings, a dinner experience and auction.

I spoke with Marketing Director Chris Taranto of the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance about this year’s Grand Tasting on the 29th, and he enthused that “Paso Robles has become the fastest growing wine region in California. In addition to the Grand Tasting for the trade, media and consumers, we have secured wine dinners at marquee restaurants, tastings at local retailers and trade tastings. Visitors will get to experience Paso wines as if they were visiting the region,” he said.

Taranto urged interested guests to access the active web site www.pasowine.com to get the latest information on where the wine dinners will be, to book tickets to the Grand Tasting and purchase Zin Fest tickets.

Wineries to watch next time you cruise 101 to this lovely area include: Berardo, Caliza, Cass, Denner, Eberle, Halter Ranch, Justin, L’aventure, Niner, Tablas Creek and Zenaida.

New Year – New Wines

I am energized by the amazing number of wine events launched in 2012 and want to share some of the best wines I have experienced to date: Enjoy these 10:

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2008. $24. Venerable able bodied name with lots of black cherry, casssis and cocoa. www.beringer.com.

Contucci Riserva Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Siena Italy. 2007. 22 Euro. A beautiful discovery at the Italian Masters Wine Conference in San Francisco. 80% Prugnolo Gentile, a clone of Sangiovese. 4 years aging. www.contucci.it.

Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay, Napa Valley, 2009. $42. The “Judgement of Paris” lives on with the latest Mike Grgich release certified organic and biodynamic with delicious acidity. www.grgich.com

Hess Collection 19 Block Cuvee Mt. Veeder Napa. 2008. $36. From the Veeder Summit Vineyard. Blend of Cab, Merlot, Syrah, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Steep slopes, volcanic soil, intense flavor make this a winner. www.hesscollection.com

Lewis Cellars Ethan’s Syrah Napa Valley 2009. $45. A strong, balanced spicy wine. Black raspberry, licorice notes. www.lewiscellars.com

Norton Reserva Malbec, Mendoza Argentina 2008. $13. Grown 3,600 feet above sea level with some 50 year old vines, this is a true contender to Napa Valley Cabernet. Rich, black fruits, long finish. www.norton.com

Orfila Estate Lotus Viognier, San Pasqual Valley 2010. $29. Rhone style white wine with lush melon, citrus, pear, apricot notes. Bright acidity. www.orfila.com.

Palumbo Family Tre Fratelli Meritage, Temecula 2008. $34. Traditional Bordeaux blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Cab Franc. Elegant wine. www.palumbowines.com.

Pedroncelli Sangiovese, Dry Creek Sonoma 2008. $15. Tuscany’s native wine, made in America by a traditional Italian family. Bravo! www.pedroncelli.com.

V.Sattui Howell Mountain Zinfandel, Napa 2009. $42. Big, spicy vintage. Mountain wine from 2,400 feet. Volcanic ash, red clay combo. Small production, aged 18 months in French Oak. www.sattui.com.

Wine Bytes

- The Pacific Coast Wine Festival, bringing the best of Napa Valley and beyond and benefiting the Pacific Symphony, is Saturday March 3 starting at 5pm at the Island Hotel in Newport Beach. A 5 course dinner and 2 rare bottles of Screaming Eagle up for auction highlight the elegant evening. Wine tasting of some 50 world-class wines. Silent and live auctions. Tickets are $375. ea. RSVP at 714-876-2364.

- Spicy Reds is the theme of the Friday tasting on Feb. 24 at Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas from 6 to 8pm. Taste Grenache, Syrah and Zinfandel. $20 pp. Details at 760-479-2500.

- Wine Styles in Encinitas offers Live Jazz on Fri. Feb. 24 from 6 to 8:30pm, with North County’s Freefall playing. For details call 760-633-0057.

- 3rd Corner in Encinitas has a wine dinner with the Michael Keenan Winery pouring favorites on Wed. Feb. 29. Call for price and times at 760-942-2104.

Living & Loving All Things Italian at Vigilucci’s

by Frank Mangio

The bucolic settings and décor of the seven Vigilucci’s Italian Restaurants in San Diego County have been a source of old world charm and character, studied, copied and shadowed by competitors since Robby Vigilucci opened his first restaurant in Encinitas in 1994. His dinners are all occasions and not just occasional.

I recently joined GM Vittorio Homberger at the Coast Highway location in Carlsbad for a fun, happy time in front of a full house of diners who enjoyed the legendary Il Poggioni Tuscan wines, with part of the menu his mother’s secret recipes.

Wine columnist Frank Mangio, sips the Il Poggioni Brunello 2006 with

Vigilucci’s affable GM Vittorio Homberger.

A “Mama’s” favorite was Risotto simmered with Italian sausages, yellow, green and red bell peppers and goat cheese.a leading Brunello winery in the south of Tuscany near Montalcino, the only growing grounds for this immmaculate wine. “Rosso di Montalcino is a younger Brunello,” said Craig Henriksen the regional Il Poggioni Manager. It’s a little younger and lighter but it’s the same Sangiovese grape clone as Brunello, its big brother. It ages 1 year in Slovanian Oak and 6 months in bottle for a richer, cherry taste.”

Everyone was waiting for the Brunello and when it came, it was paired with a grilled Prime Filet Mignon, served with Bordelaise sauce, with a vegetable ravioli in butter sauce.

The surprise of the night was a glass of Vin Santo. Be sure to search for this gem, an after-dinner dessert wine, made from Malvasia and Trebbiano white grapes. The grapes are dried on racks for several months to load them up with natural sugar. They are then aged for an average 7 years in small barrels and another year in bottle. Some winemakers add a small quantity of Sangiovese for color and texture.

To the south in Encinitas, is the first Vigilucci’s, and it hosted a “Taste of Venice” with Sartori Vintners Fine Wine Ambassador Diane Cappetta Nares. A parade of popular wines put lots of smiles on the guests: a sparkling Prosecco started it, then on to a Sartori Ferdi white 2010. The highlight was an Amorone della Valpolicella 2007, paired with a risotto topped with lamb chops.

A trio of wine event hosts greeted guests at Vigilucci’s Trattoria in Encinitas:

GM Paolo Pastorelli, Sartori Wine Ambassador Diane Cappetta Nares and Executive Chef Lazarescu Lorin.

The Encinitas Trattoria is planning a Lombardy Wine Dinner Thursday March 15 at 6:30pm. Call for details and reservations at 760-942-7332. Also visit www.vigiluccis.com to get the latest in living and loving that Italian lifestyle.

Wine Bytes

Meritage Wine Market has Stellar Wines from Santa Barbara, Fri. Feb. 17 from 6 to 8pm. $20. pp. Call 760-479-2500.

Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp Downtown San Diego presents Just Pinot Noir Sat. Feb. 18 from 2 to 8:30pm. From Burgundy, the Russian River Valley to Oregon, get your fill of beautiful Pinot. Seven tastes. Cost is $20. Details at 619-236-0005.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido opens All-American wines for Presidents Day, Monday Feb. 20 starting at 5:30pm. Just $5. each. Learn more at 760-745-1200.

Twisted Vine Bistro Wine Bar, off the 56 in San Diego, has the Niven Family Wines with their new releases from the Edna Valley, Wed. Feb. 22 with a 6pm start. Meet the winemaker. $35. pp. Limited seating so call early. 858-780-2501.

A vintner dinner with legendary great Mike Grigich of Grigich Hills Estates will be held at Sirocco’s in Indian Wells near Palm Desert, Thurs. Feb. 23. Call 760-773-4444 for pricing and time.

San Diego Wine Company is planning an Argentinean Tasting Sat. Feb. 25 from 11 to 4:30pm. $10. fee. For wine names, phone 858-586-WINE.

Pechanga Casino in Temecula is holding their 4th annual Wine Festival and Chocolate Decadence Fri. and Sat. March 1 and 2. $ 75. ea. Call the box office for times and tickets: 1-877-711-2946.

Get to Know Mt. Veeder-Headquarters for HESS Collection

by Frank Mangio

High over the Napa Valley, on the slopes of Mt. Veeder, just 15 minutes from Highway 29, lies HESS Collection Vineyard and Winery, some 2,100 feet from the valley floor. Founded by Swiss winery owner Donald Hess in 1989, the winery has distinguished itself as a producer of fine premium wines like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Hess has evolved into one of the deans of worldwide wine making in such far-flung capitals as Australia with Peter Lehmann Winery, South Africa with Glen Carlou and Argentina with Bodega Colume’.

HESS farms some 310 acres on Mt. Veeder along with single sites of 175 and 210 acres in Napa Valley. In Monterey, HESS owns 310 acres and produces an excellent value Chardonnay ($10.)

Director of Winemaking Dave Guffy is the hands-on Director of Winemaking for HESS Collection, shown pouring new releases at the Posiedon in Del Mar.

Dave Guffy is the HESS Collection’s Director of Winemaking since 1999. He had already gained a solid reputation with Kendall Jackson Wines, producing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and some Syrah. Now he had an opportunity to make fine Cabernet Sauvignon.

“As a young man I loved Cabernet especially from Napa Valley,” he explained. “Now I had a chance to be on top of Napa, literally, making mountain Cab. Mountain fruit is different that valley floor fruit, and so are the wines. They are structured, complex rich wines.”

Nowadays Guffy is also involved in “small block” wines that are blended with some extraordinary varietals. “Malbec brings a softening quality to our Mt. Veeder 19 Block Cuvee 2008,” he revealed. “The volcanic soils of the mountain and the 6 varietals, combine to make this Cuvee a delight to the senses.” The wine is aged 16 months in French Oak. Expect aromas of black cherry and ripe plum accented with vanilla and cardamom. As you might imagine it is a big finish wine and my favorite of the group. ($36.)

When pressed, Guffy revealed a personal affair with Syrah, so much so his personal residence is a Syrah vineyard. He uses the grape as a key ingredient for his proprietary blends. This time of year, Guffy is walking the HESS vineyards. It isn’t just the grapes. “I need to see the health of the vineyards and what shape everything is in,” he said. This fact is wrapped in the philosophy of Owner Donald Hess: “Nurture the land, and return what you take.” That way, wines are delivered that speak to their natural origins.

Learn more at www.hesscolection.com. Phone 707-255-1144.

Wine Bytes for Valentine’s Day

The ultimate Valentine’s Trio: wine, cheese and chocolates will be featured at a class Sat. Feb. 11 from 2 to 4pm at Sbicca’s in Del Mar. Pairings of wine and cheese and wine and chocolate. Five wines tasted. $45. for 1, $84. for 2 people. RSVP at 858-442-2749.

Sun. Feb. 12 it’s a Valentine’s concert from 5:30-8:30pm at Orfila Winery in Escondido. The duo of Mike McGill and Jared Gianquinto play. Call 760-738-6500 x 20 for your RSVP.

Vino Valentino is the theme of the annual event at Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo, Sun. Feb. 12 from 6 to 9pm. Delicious wines, champagne, food and desserts in the barrel room and tasting room. Live music and horse and carriage rides. Tickets $60. pp. $110./couple. 858-487-1866 for reservations.

Thornton Winery in Temecula is planning a Romantic Rendezvous Tues. Feb. 14 starting at 7pm. Private tables with candlelight. Dinner and wines in the elegant Champagne Room and Caves. $80. ea. RSVP at 951-699-0099.

Valentine’s Day in the San Diego Botanic Garden in Encinitas, Tues. Feb. 14 from 5to 8pm will feature special touches like champagne, hors d’oeuvres, chocolates, live entertainment, professional photo, coffee lounge and more. $75. per couple. Details at 760-436-3036 x206.

The Pinnacle Restaurant at Falkner Winery in Temecula has a Valentine’s Dinner on Sun. and Tues. Feb. 12 and 14. Enjoy 4 course meals with individual wine pairings. Live entertainment. Seating at 7pm. $79. pp. Wine Club members $69. Call the winery at 951-676-8231 ext 1.

A Valentine’s four course dinner featuring live music is planned for the Westgate Hotel, downtown San Diego Tues. Feb. 14 starting at 6pm. $79. ea. $99. with wine pairings. Reserve now at 619-557-3655.

Meritage at Callaway Winery in Temecula is staging a romantic night on Tues. Feb. 14 with Chef Henry presenting a Pre Fixe dinner menu with seating at 5:30 and 7:30pm. A rose will be presented to each lady, plus small bite appetizer and special Callaway Bella Blanc upon seating. Price is $75. Call 951-587-8889 for an RSVP.