Banfi Wines in Pursuit of Perfection

by Frank Mangio
The journey began for Banfi and the Mariani family, Americans John and Harry, some 34 years ago, when they carefully assembled 7,100 acres in Italy in a constellation of single vineyards in the southern Tuscan countryside of Montalcino. The property included a medieval castle, “Poggio alle Mura” or walled hilltop, which the Marianis carefully restored and renamed Castello Banfi.  The brothers had done well in the Italian import business, including wines from the area’s Sangiovese grape, but had long felt that the wines could be better.

 “They wanted the Italian wines to compete with France,” said Lars Leicht, Banfi’s Director of Communications.  “They chose Montalcino in fact because French style grapes like Cabernet and Merlot had done well with Sangiovese, to make wines known as Super Tuscans.
But it was Banfi that pioneered the planting of noble French varieties in Montalcino, to pair with microclimates on the estate.  

 Castello Banfi and its medieval tower, is located in the heart of the 7,100 acres of vineyards in Montalcino Italy.

Its most intensive undertaking was in the zone’s native Sangiovese, making Brunello,  premium clones of Sangiovese and now widely acclaimed as one of the world’s finest wines.  And there lies the soul of the value of Banfi to Italy and the rest of the wine world.  It opened the door for Brunello to take its leadership position.

With its established contacts and marketing skills, Banfi’s message was “take a look, take a taste.”
At its earliest stages of research and development, Banfi’s winemaker, Rudy Buratti joined the family and embraced the mantra of quality control and the pursuit of excellence.  “With a constellation of single vineyards producing a range of innovative Super Tuscans as well as traditional Brunello di Montalcino,” observes Buratti, “quality control is fundamental to expressing our unique terroir with 29 different soil types.”

Rudy Buratti is the Winemaker at Castello Banfi

Buratti was part of the original team that isolated and registered 15 outstanding clones of the Sangiovese vine, to ultimately co-author and document the history of Brunello on the estate.  Leicht points out that “it took six years for the Mariani family to study the soil, understand the grapes, the climate and to understand Sangiovese before they could offer wine to the public, in 1984.”

Recently, Banfi experts assembled at the Grand Del Mar near San Diego to unveil the newest release for Brunello Di Montalcino, the 2007 vintage.  Thanks to a near ideal climate for Italy that year, the September/October hand harvest and resulting winemaking was an inflection point of quality.  After 5 years of careful barrel and bottle aging, a mature wine is revealed, aromas are very complex and soft, with notes of plum, jam, ripe cherry and a licorice/tobacco earth presence.  A full and harmonious finish persists.

The Banfi story continues with a wide family of quality wines in every price point.  John and Harry Mariani have passed the baton to their children, James and Cristina, who are making great strides in going global with Banfi Vintners, recently acquiring vineyards in Washington and Calilfornia.  Castello Banfi signature wines are now in over 85 countries.  Italy has awarded Castello Banfi  “Italy’s Best Wine Estate” eleven times since 1994.  Perhaps the most satisfying praise to this legendary family is that of neighboring vintners who acknowledge Banfi’s role in pioneering a new era in Brunello and bringing the world’s attention to Montalcino.  Excellence achieved!
For a virtual tour, visit www.castellobanfi.com.

Wine Bytes
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is offering a food and wine event Sat. June 23 from 6 to 8pm.  Walt/Hall Wines from Napa Valley are featured along with a stellar lineup of menu flavors. Tickets limited to 60 at $35. pp.  RSVP at 760-479-2500.

Paso Robles Halter Ranch Wines are coming to La Costa Wine Company, Fri. June 22 from 6 to 8:30pm.  Winemaker Darren Ramos will also be there.  Cost is $25.  Call 760-431-8646.

A Taste of Our Towne is the theme for a wine/food event Sat. June 23 from 5:30 to 9:30pm at Poway Center for the Performing Arts.  Local restaurants and wineries, entertainment and dancing provide all you need for this fundraiser.  Ticket are $100.  Call 858-748-0505.

The San Diego Spirits Festival presents its first of the year Bartender Challenge at La Valencia Hotel in La Jolla, Wed. June 27 from 6-9pm.  Teams of two will be challenged to create a signature cocktail with a small plate pairing.  You will be tasting the creations.  $20. advance, $25. at the door.  Call 858-551-1605.

The Italian favorite Il Fornaio in Coronado is presenting its BV Reserve Wine Dinner with a menu that compliments the Napa Valley wines of BV, including its legendary Tapestry Blend 2008.  Manager Luca Allieri has a four course Italian style menu.  Reception at 6pm, dinner at 6:30pm. $64.99 pp.  RSVP at 619-437-4911.

Small Plates, Big Pours, Big News at Flemings

by Frank Mangio
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar is an unforgettable night of fun and flavor in a palatial setting where the culinary good life is toasted nightly.  Set into a hotel/restaurant square in La Jolla off the I-5, Fleming’s is constantly offering attractive promotions to keep the excitement at a high pitch.  And the perfect ringmaster for all this innovation is Casey Eades, the Operating Partner of Fleming’s.

“We enjoy presenting memorable times at Fleming’s he declared.  If you’re here for a fine aged prime steak, we have lots of selections.  There are four Filet Mignons to choose from , all Prime to insure tenderness, all seasoned with kosher salt and black pepper and broiled at 1600 degrees to your preferred taste.”

An ideal way to taste the main menu is to go with selections from the “Small Plates, Big Pours” feature in the bar.  Seven delicious picks are matched with an oversized wine offering.  “We carefully choose a wine that pairs with the distinct flavor of each of our Small Plates,” Eades explained.  “The wines are oversized 9 ounce pours.  For example, the sliced Filet Mignon with Shitake Risotto, Chili Oil and Porcini Butter is paired with Talbot Pinot Noir 2010 from Santa Lucia Highlands, our most respected Central Coast Pinot. The pair is just $24.95.”

Other notable pairings included:  Wicked Cajon BBQ Shrimp with Dr. Loosen 2010 German Riesling, New Bedford Scallops with a Honey Glaze Vegetable Salad, paired with Kistler 2010 Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast and New Zealand Petite Lamb Chops and Polenta Fries, matched up with Meyer 2006 Syrah from Mendocino. These premium selections are available for a limited time in the bar, so check with Fleming’s.

I complimented Eades on his work with the Fleming’s 100, an award-winning list of 100 wines by the glass, way more choices than most restaurants offer.  With this amount of choice, both domestic and international, discovering a great wine at a value that will please, is an easy-to-do search.

Fleming’s First Fridays is drawing a buzz and hundreds of guests with its focus on the wine countries of the world.  Earlier this month it was Napa Valley and to open June, Eades has chosen Chilean Wines.  Twenty wines are featured along with tasting tips.  The date is June 1 from 5:30 to 7:30pm.  Cost is $25. per person.  Call in an RSVP at 858-535-0078.

Got a special occasion coming up?  Private Dining is your way to go at Fleming’s.  Whether it’s a five course dinner or a cocktail reception, visit the website for a look, menus and wine lists.  Visit www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com.

What TASTE OF WINE Readers are Saying
We always welcome comments from our growing number of readers, so please take a moment and let us know about wine and the column.  Here are just a few that I recently received:


“I’ve been enjoying your wine column for more than a year now, thanks for all the great wine stories and events. “ Martha Sodaro-Burke, Napa Valley, CA.


“Thanks for the article on Fort Ross, I can see you delved into the history of the area with many interesting facts.”  Linda Schwartz, Fort Ross, CA.


“Thanks for the article on the Wounded Veterans benefit wine. Thousands of American Veterans do too.”  Les Linkogle, Temecula, CA.


“Asia is booming. They honor strong work ethics. Other Banfi wines to watch: Rosa Regale, Cum Laude and Centine. Love that smile in your picture.”  John Mariani, Banfi Montalcino, IT.

“I’ve got a small vineyard and winery in Rancho Santa Fe  and grow Sangiovese, Cab and Cab Franc-260 vines.  If you want to do a little barrel tasting, let me know.”  Ron Gerevas, Rancho Santa Fe, CA.

Wine Bytes
The Chula Vista Nature Center brings us a Food and Wine Classic Sat. June 2 from 3 to 7pm.  With San Diego Bay in the background, food, wine/beer sampling, cooking demos, music and animal encounters should keep you entertained. $75. admission.  Call 619-409-5900.

Encinitas Rotary Wine Festival is Sat. June 2 from 5 to 8pm in the Children’s Garden area of the Botanical Garden in Encinitas.   Funds go to charities.  3 price levels:  $90., $135. and $500. Food and wine from area restaurants and wineries, music and auctions.  Details at 760-753-1977.

The Temecula Balloon and Wine Festival is Fri. June 1 thru Sun. June 3.  The big food/wine pairings are Sat. and Sun.  Call the Temecula Convis office for details & ticket info:  951-491-6085.

SDSU Extended Studies is planning a class on French Wines conducted by leading Advanced Sommelier Jesse Rodriguez starting Monday June 4 to June 18 from 6 to 9pm on campus.  Check out www.neverstoplearning.net.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos has a great tasting from Frank Family wines of Napa Valley, Fri. June 8 from 5 to 8pm. Cost is $15.  Call 760-744-2119 for varietals.