Wine and Dine High on the CUSP

by Frank Mangio
The economic news for San Diego and its sister cities in the county is finally pointing up, away from the chill of the deepest recession since the great one way back when.  Recently I read that residential housing sales are up and the average price per home is up.  Now, another reason to cheer:  San Diego is first in California travel destinations according to Hotels.com., and it’s the 4th most popular destination in the entire U.S.A. in the first 6 months of 2012.

Hotel rates are up and restaurants and wine bistros are doing much better.  This leads me to the fact there is a booming launch of new and remodeled restaurants and resorts taking place, especially along San Diego’s coastline. La Jolla has more than its share and one of the best is high in the sky on top of Hotel La Jolla called CUSP. It’s the former Elario’s, that boasts the most panoramic views of La Jolla and the sweeping Pacific coastline, a setting perfect for the Mediterranean menu of fresh seafood with a Morrocan-Italian- Spanish twist to it.

 A popular salad at CUSP in La Jolla is Candy Cane Beet with warm epoisses cheese & apple.

 Executive Chef Donald Lockhart makes all pastas “in-house,” with such favorites as baked rigatoni and spinach fetuccine.  He adds shrimp, chicken or salmon for just a few dollars more. There’s also a showcase Morroccan Spiced King Salmon with tomato picchio and carmelized fennel that will sear in your memory as a flavorful masterpiece. The wine that I want you to try is the Rubicon Estate Zinfandel Edizione Pennino 2009, a dark, solid, dense red made by Francis Ford Coppola’s Napa Valley winery.

CUSP is a stylish, relaxed and comfortable penthouse restaurant, with healthy, tasty menu items.  Breakfast, lunch and Happy Hour are Monday through Friday, with dinner daily from 5pm. Brunch from 8 to 2pm Saturday and Sunday.  For more, check out www.cusprestaurant.com

"Red Red Wine Makes Me Feel So Fine"
So goes the great song from UB 40.  I would go along with that thought but I do have one exception, a white wine that does the same, Viognier. Here’s the latest list of fine wine tastes:

Amavi Cellars Cabernet Walla Walla, Wa. 2008.  $33.  Black cherry and plum flavor with a distinctive Washington outcome, with those long days of summer like no other wine country. Sustainably farmed. www.amavicellars.com.

Fiftyrow Vineyards Cabernet Rutherford, Napa Valley 2008.  $49.  Encinitas olive oil pioneer Paul Johnson’s 3rd vintage and easily his best with Napa winemaker Gary Galleron. 24 months in new French Oak barreling.  91 Parker points.  www.fiftyrow.com.

Jarvis Winery Merlot Napa Valley 2009. $95.  100% estate Merlot and a much sought-after version.  Aged 22 months in new French Oak.  Maximum flavors with toasty vanilla at the finish.  Ultra-soft tannins and silky mouth-feel.  www.jarviswines.com.

Jordan Winery Cabernet Alexander Valley Sonoma Ca.  2008.  $52.  An estate Cabernet with start to finish quality control matching the best of Bordeaux.  Yields were down this year, but the elegance and balance were evident.  www.jordanwinery.com

Keenan Cabernet Spring Mt., Napa Valley. 2007. $35.  Went operational in 1977 and never looked back.  150 acres of “Mountain Wine.”  Lots of earth characteristics.  www.keenanwinery.com.
Niner Winery Estates Pinot Noir, San Luis Obispo, Ca. 2009. $41.  A first for Niner, grapes are from the nearby Edna Valley.  Classic cherry base with a long-lingering finish. www.ninerwine.com.

Orfila Winery Estate Lotus Viognier San Pasqual Valley, Escondido, CA.  2010.  $29.  Rhone-style white with melon, citrus, pear and apricot blend aromas.  Bright acidity.  Aged in oak and stainless steel.  www.orfila.com.

Robbie Torres and Ashley Roy offer the 2010 Viognier at   Orfila Winery’s Grape Stomp.

Sodaro Winery Estate Blend, Napa Valley. 2008.  $68.  This full-bodied wine brings you a unique taste that only a well-crafted blend can do.  81% Cabernet, 17% Petit Verdot and 2% Merlot.  Robust and concentrated, this is a wine experience as great as any blend found anywhere.  Hints of black licorice and plum.  www.sodarowines.com.

Wine Bytes
Del Mar Village presents a Taste and Art Stroll, Sun. Oct. 7 from 10am to 5pm.  Art Stroll starts downtown at 10am, tasting and sipping starts at 1pm.  Live music & a kids mart.  $25. for tasting on pre-purchase.  www.delmarvillageassociation.com.

Woofs and Purrs in the Vines is the event at Oak Mountain Winery in Temecula Wine Country.  12 to 4pm, Sun. Oct. 7.  Live music, lunch, silent auction and games.  Admission $35. donation.  RSVP at 951-699-9102.

Thornton wines from Temecula will be featured at a wine dinner at the Grant Grill, downtown San Diego, Mon. Oct. 8, 5:30 to 10pm.  5 course prix fixe dinner with complimentary Thornton pairings.  $130. pp.  Call 619-744-2077.

Lewis Cellars of Napa Valley conducts a wine dinner at the Grand Del Mar’s Amaya, Fri. Oct. 12 from 5:30 to 10pm. The Lewis Family will be there to speak with guests.  $78. ea.  RSVP at 858-314-1996.

Harvest On Howell Mountain

by Frank Mangio
In our last report on Napa Valley wines, most wineries were happy to see the progress of the fruit as it experienced “Veraison,” the changing of the leaves and grapes to a rich color, signaling the onset of harvest.  This latest blast of heat we are experiencing seals the deal, especially on Howell Mountain, the first AVA subappellation  in Napa Valley and an  impressive elevation for growing wine grapes beginning at 1,400 feet above the fog. This means warmer mornings and cooler afternoon breezes.   This is Cab Country, concentrated and structured.

Howell Mountain, the highest elevation in Napa Valley rises to 2,400 feet and is home to Cabernet, Merlot and Zinfandel. The Cakebread Dancing Bear Vineyard is shown.

TASTE OF WINE was struck by its elegant and timeless qualitieswith a Mountain Wine distinctive flavor , characterized by pepper and warm spices.  The grapes are small, tightly clustered and powerfully concentrated for intense fruit.  They develop thick skins that yield rich tannins. A closer look at the terroir reveals rich, red volcanic soils  with naturally superb iron, enriching the grapes in Howell’s 600 + acres planted.  Here are some names to know:

Robert Craig Winery
Robert and Lynn Craig have been producing distinctive Cabernets for over 20 years.  Their ’96
Cab brought fame when Wine Spectator called it the hot new winery. It’s been a top 50 Cab producer ever since.

  

The winemaker since 2008 at the 20 acre Robert Craig Winery on Howell Mountain is Stephen Tebb.

Be sure to taste their 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet with 85% Cab, 6% Petit Verdot, 7% Merlot, and 2% Malbec.  It recently bagged 96 points at Wine Advocate.  www.robertcraigwine.com.

Charles Krug Winery.  The Peter Mondavi Family has staked their reputation on the 9 acres planted to Cabernet on their 20 acre parcel and the accolades are pouring in on this ’07 Howell Mountain Rocky Ridge Vineyard Cab, their first release from their Howell Mountain Vineyard. www.charleskrug.com.

O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery.  Owner Betty O’Shaunessy began her winery in 1990 in Oakville and over the next few years more vineyards on Howell and Mt. Veeder.  Founding winemaker Sean Capiaux is still master winemker, creating world class Cabernet. with deep roots on the  hillside property.  A favorite is the 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet offering excellent structure and deep color.  www.oshaughnessy.com.

Betty O’Shaughnessy at harvest.

Duckhorn Vineyards.  Duckhorn has its headquarters winery in St. Helena on the floor of Napa Valley, but their vineyard that has the signature 2007 Cabernet is midway up Howell Mountain.  They have sourced cab here since 1989.  The current release has 68% Cab and  32% Merlot.  To further encourage complexity, this wine was bottle-aged one year longer than normal prior to release.  www.duckhorn.com.

Cakebread Cellars was founded in 1973 by Jack and Dolores Cakebread.  The current winemaker is Julianne Laks, only the 3rd winemaker in 35 years.  Their Cabernets are full-throttle wonderful.  Their Howell Mountain Dancing Bear ranch is a favorite, with most applause reserved for the 2007 with 22 months in French Oak. The mix is 80% Cab, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc.  www.cakebread.com.

You can experience mountain wines from Howell Mountain at a Harvest Celebration in Napa Valley’s Yountville, Saturday November 3 from 1 to 4pm at the V Wine Cellar.  $35. pp. advance tickets for 17 wineries plus Chef’s tasting menu.  Call 707-965-2665 or visit www.howellmountain.org.

Wine Bytes
PAON in Carlsbad presents a Napa/Sonoma Tasting in the Tasting Bar, Thurs. Sept. 27 thru Wed. Oct. 3. Six one ounce glasses for $16. Check for names at 760-729-7377.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has Lobsterfest 2012 Sat. Sept. 29 from 6 to 9pm.  Advance tix required at $100. ea.  This is an old fashioned Maine Lobster Boil with all the trimmings with lots of wines.  Call now at 760-479-2500.

Ponte Winery in Temecula rolls out its Grape Stomp Sun. Sept. 30 from 4 to 9pm.  Cost is $95. for a Buffet Dinner, and Dance.  Stomps are team mate competition for prizes.  Call 877-314-WINE.

The RB Historical Society brings its 2nd annual wine tasting, music and food fest to Bernardo Winery, Sun. Sept. 30 from Noon to 4pm.  Four live bands will play. Beer and wine from area breweries and vineyards.  Tickets $20. ea. or at the door for $25.  Call 858-775-5788.

A New View of the Pacific at Chandler’s on Carlsbad’s Oceanfront

by Frank Mangio
If you needed a new reason to sit and soak in the magnificent Pacific Ocean, you have one in the breathtaking surroundings at Chandler’s,  the new restaurant and lounge inside the equally beautiful new Hilton  Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa.

A sleek, fresh, environmentally friendly décor invites comfort and cordiality and connects directly with the resort and spa’s coastal colors and architecture.  Chandler’s Executive Chef is the acclaimed French
stylist Pascal Vignau, who is well-known  as the former Executive Chef for Four Seasons Aviara Resort and most recently  chef/owner of Savory Casual Fare in Encinitas with a widely celebrated international menu. Vignau’s passion is comfortable and approachable food, presented in a first-class setting.  His approach to wine is equally impressive. He has personally designed a private wine room , allowing guests to personally select their favorite wine from a spectacular world-class selection.

Pascal Vignau is the Executive Chef of the new Chandler’s Restaurant in the Hilton Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa.

California wines are dominant on the list, with my value favorite being the Turley Zinfandel from the Central Coast. A premium wine to know is the Lewis Cellars Cabernet from the Napa Valley.

The evening I sat with Vignau he had planned a tribute dinner in honor of America’s favorite chef Julia Child who mastered the art of French cooking.  It was a delicious French Onion Soup, classic Boeuf Bourguignon and French Apple Tart.  “Tonight would have been her 100th birthday and in the days when I worked alongside Julia, she was the nicest lady ever,” he reminisced. “She received the Legion of Honor from France and the Medal of Freedom from the United States.  How big is that from someone who made her living in the kitchen!” I then asked him what made him turn from his own restaurant to a large resort-style dining room.  “Look at this beautiful place,” he said.  “ I come here to create my dishes and watch the magnificent ocean.  In the other place I watched a parking lot in a shopping center.  I love it here.”

Other things to know about when you visit this Hilton:  its 215 guest rooms have mostly ocean views, directly across from Ponto Beach on the Coast Highway; spectacular surf art splashes bright color throughout the corridors, created by the world renowned surf photographer Aaron Chang; the Ocean Crest Spa is an artistic triumph inspired by the ocean with next-generation wellness experiences, and the resort now offers an “Endless Summer Beach Package” full of benefits for one low price.  For more information and reservations, visit www.hiltoncarlsbadoceanfront.com  or call 760-602-0800.

Veraison in the Vineyards
No it’s not a grape varietal, it’s what happens to the leaves and grapes as the September harvest arrives.

It reminds me of the Fall Foliage back east, with leaf coloration that is nothing short of gorgeous, and the grapes go from green to a deep purple. Up in the Napa Valley when I visited recently, the excitement was building as weather signs indicated a memorable harvest ahead.

 Veraison is the vineyard transformation from green leaves to rich yellows and reds, and grapes from green to deep purple.

The grapes also increase in volume, weight and sugar content. Generalities though are hard to underline in the wine business due to “micro-climates,” where one vineyard will show very different results from another just a few miles down the road. For instance, in lower Napa Valley, Lewis Cellars is raving about the prospects for the growing season, while Michael Keenan of Keenan Wines up in the mountains near St. Helena  sees a late harvest due to lack of hot weather.  Over at nearby Provenance Winery in Rutherford, lead winemaker Tom Rinaldi’s one-word comment was “Giddy.”  He gives a big thumbs up to 2012.

Wine Bytes
The San Diego Zoo has a benefit food and wine celebration Sat. Sept. 22 from 7:30 to 12 midnight.  175 food and beverage suppliers will serve guests. Live music, animal ambassadors and silent auctions will keep it lively.  Cost starts at $90. for admission.  More details at 619-718-3000.

A Day in Tuscany is the theme, including a 4 course lunch with Italian wine pairings and a seminar at San Antonio Winery, downtown  Los Angeles Sun. Sept. 23 from 1 to 4pm.  $68. pp.  Call 888-223-1401.

The Taste of Hope is a wine and food benefit event, Sun. Sept. 23, 4 to 7pm at Rancho Valencia Resort in Rancho Santa Fe.  Cost is $65.  RSVP at 858-452-6846.

The San Diego Wine Show is a two day celebration of wine, food and music in the Paddock area of the Del Mar Fairgrounds, Sat. Sept. 29, 2 to 8pm and Sun. September 30, 1 to 6pm.  Great whites and reds from California and the Pacific Coast with live entertainment in an intimate outdoor setting.  Fine food available.  Tickets $55. per day, $65. at the door, available at www.sandiegowineshow.com or call 800-653-8000.

September is California Wine Month

by Frank Mangio
A fantastic “Camelot” of wine and a champion unmatched in all the world, California wines are celebrating September as California Wine Month.  It’s unmistakable.  More than 90% of the wine made in the U.S. is made in California.  Its diverse and compatible climate allows any wine varietal to be grown in many styles. Over 1,200 producers make wine.  The winemakers origins come from around the world. They are creative and open to experimentation to make greater wine quality.

In the south, the wine country with the greatest potential is Temecula Valley Wine Country, an assembly of some 35 plus wineries and vineyards.  Most of the growth has been in the last decade from dedicated young vintners who are standing tall with increasing quality.

Recently, a notable winery that is striving to make progressive changes, Callaway Vineyard and Winery, cut the ribbon on a spacious and attractive two story Visitors Center with 180 degree views of the valley floor and surrounding mountains. No stranger to Temecula wine lovers, Callaway was founded by Ely Callaway in 1969.  He later went on to golf equipment fame. His legacy is carried on today by owner Patricia Linn and current winemaker Craig Larson.

E. Reeves Callaway, son of founder Ely Callaway helps cut the ribbon with owner Patricia Linn on a new addition to Callaway Winery in Temecula.

One of the most fascinating features I have seen recently in a winery is Callaway’s commitment to wine enomatic stations where guests can purchase a wine debit card and select a wine, push a button for a desired wine amount and price, then place a glass under a spout for a pour, enabling the customer to try before they buy a bottle.  One of the 6 stations had an ’09 Mourvedre, a Rhone Valley Red which I felt was an excellent version. ( $28.). Contact the winery at 951-676-4001.

Keyways Winery, on the De Portola Trail of Temecula Wine Country, has a new owner.  We wish the former owner, Teri Delhamer, all the best.  She operated the only all-woman winery in SoCal and left a legacy of twenty lovely wines and a warm European style ambience.  This year to date, Keyways has harvested Muscat, Rousanne and Voignier and the grapes are looking good according to tasting room manager Jamey Fidler.  The new owners have introduced the Cork Club Room exclusive to wine club members; and the home on the property is now available as a resort rental that can sleep up to 14 people and has a private pool and hot tub.  Details at 951-302-7888.

Peter White brings his jazz guitar magic to Thornton Winery as the Champagne Jazz Series continues there Sunday September 16 at 5pm.  See www.jazzconcerts.com.

South Coast Winery Resort & Spa stages their annual Grape Stomp, Wine Blessing and Harvest Festival Sunday September 23 from 4 to 7pm.  An outdoor BBQ, dancing, stomp competition and Italian village music are featured. Cost is $55., with $50. for club members.  RSVP at 866-994-6379.

The Temecula Wine Country Association is presenting its annual CRUSH, a wine and culinary showcase, on Saturday September 15 from 6:30 to 9:30pm at Callaway Winery.  Celebrating California Wine Month, the Temecula wineries will gather with local and winery restaurants in an extravaganza of food and drink.  $75. admission. Buy tickets at http://www.temeculawines.org or call 800-801-9463.

South Coast Winery Resort & Spa celebrates the grape harvest with a Festival on September 23.

On a serious note, the Association is calling on those that enjoy their wine country to help protect the region by signing a petition  to request that the Riverside County Planning Commission  preserve and conserve the area as vineyard development over other incompatible interests. There have been and are attempts to introduce commercial projects in wine country that have no interest in vineyards.  See the web site or phone number above for more information.

A final  Temecula Wine Country note…in last week’s article on  my favorite white wine, Viognier, Fred Renzoni of Robert Renzoni Vineyards sent an e mail over alerting me that his winery has made a new release Viognier and added it to Pinot Grigio for a lovely $15. blend called Cantata for the summer–like days ahead. It’s a drink now 2011.  See more at www.robertrenzonivineyards.com.

Wine Bytes
California Wine month is being celebrated at Marina Kitchen in San Diego, next to the Convention Center, with several multi course wine dinners with Executive Chef Aron Schwartz’s “Modern Comfort” menu.  Special wine lists include Paso favorite Tablas Creek.  Call for details and RSVPs at 619-699-8222.

3rd Corner Encinitas has an Argentina Wine Tasting  Sat. Sept. 8th from 2 to 5pm for just $10.  Present will be Patricia Ortriz, owner of Tapiz/Zolo Wines.  A special lunch can be ordered for an additional $10.   Call 760-942-2104.

Movie night is happening at Orfila Vineyards & Winery Fri. Sept 14 from 7 to 9:30pm, with a showing of GREASE!  Cost is $8. See it on a 12 foot screen.  Bring a chair and blanket. Popcorn and wine available.  More at 760-738-6500. x 22.

San Marcos Wine Company presents Bonny Doon Wines Fri. Sept 14 from 4 to 10pm.  Barbara Smith comes in from the winery. Cost is $15.  Details at 760-744-2119.