A Royal Tribute to the King of Chardonnay

by Frank Mangio
Crisp and rich with the flavors of tropical fruit, the appreciative guests raised their just-poured 2010 Chardonnay as one, and saluted the lone host of the evening, celebrating his 90th birthday.  Mike Grgich, the maker of the wine, and many other wines of choice, flashed his famous smile under his iconic French beret and acknowledged the assembled with a warm “thank you.”  It was not so long ago that he earned his greatest salute when his 1973 Napa Valley Chardonnay was sent to Paris in 1976 to compete with the Chardonnays of France, thought to be the best in the world.

It was a blind tasting and a challenge to European wines on their home ground.  The outcome was predictable, snooted the French press.  No story there, so they didn’t come.  Just before the tasting, an American from Time Magazine, thought he might come by. George Taber was the reporter who flashed the shocking news… Mike Grgich’s Chardonnay had beaten the French and other California entries.  It was the “Judgement of Paris.”

Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills Estates in Napa Valley at his 90th Birthday Tribute Dinner.

It was the miracle that Napa Valley had been waiting for.  For the hard working wineries of this spirited place, it had the ring of another great man, the Spirit of St Louis and Charles Lindbergh’s solo flight to Paris. It was the singular greatest moment in the history of wine.

We all know that wine improves with age.  Some say, jokingly, that the older we get, the better we like it  With Mike Grgich the older he got, the better he made it.  After his huge success in Paris in 1976, he

founded his own winery with the coffee magnate, Austin Hills, and called it Grgich Hills Estate in Rutherford, central to Napa Valley.  What got him this far was his strong work ethic, the youngest of 11 children in Croatia, where he studied winemaking.

He came to California in 1958 to make wine, nearly penniless and with little more than the clothes on his back, but with a big smile and a determination to make “elegant wine.”  He made friends with the great wine makers of that era, Andre Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu, Brother Timothy at Christian Brothers and the legendary Robert Mondavi.  Eventually the Smithsonian Institute would unveil a display of his accomplishments.

Today, as Grgich passes the milestone 90th year of achievements, his winery has won many other awards for outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and Fume’ Blanc, as well as other vintages of Chardonnay. He is now committed to natural winegrowing and sustainability, farming five vineyards using passion and art to handcraft food-friendly, balanced and elegant wines.  The goal of a wine maker is not to produce more and more wine, but to reveal the earth, or “terroir,” through the wines, and natural growing does just that. All of Grgich’s 366 acres follow his rule of “every day do something just a little better.”

This year, he has  bottled a special selection 2010 “Paris Tasting” Chardonnay ( $90.) in celebration of his 90th birthday. Visit the web site for more at www.grgich.com.

Wine Bytes
Le Papagayo in Encintas is the scene for a Support Local Now Launch  Party and wine dinner Mon. Apr. 8 from 7:30 to 11:30pm.  Cost is $45. and includes a five course dinner with locally grown food and wine, live music and a Support Local Now presentation.  Call 949-302-7012 for an RSVP.

The Grand Del Mar Wine Room is the location for a “Catch of the Day” cooking demo and dinner with wine pairings, Thurs. Apr. 11 from 7 to 9pm.  Demo, dinner and wine for $65. pp.  RSVP at 858-314-1996.

A Wine Tasting & Cheese Making Demonstration is featured at Milagro Farm Winery in Ramona Sat. Apr. 13 from 11 to 3pm.  Cost is $80.  Details at 858-384-6566.

Meet the Chefs of Del Mar and taste great food and wine at the 17th annual event  at the Hilton Del Mar, Sun. Apr. 14 from 1 to 4pm.  $150. General Admission, $200. for VIP.  Funds to benefit Casa de Amparo.

SDSU will be offering a wine course featuring Australian wines Wed. Apr. 10 to the 24th from 6 to 9pm, part of the Business of Wine program.  For more information, call 619-594-1138.

The 33rd Wine Extraordinaire is being held at the Anaheim Hilton Convention Center Sun. Apr. 14 from 2 to 5pm.  Hundreds of boutique wines will be highlighted with local restaurant sampling.  Silent auction.  Cost is $50.  Get the full story at 714-708-1636.

California Fruit Wine Launches New Line – Friends with Benefits

California Fruit Wine, the top fruit wine producer in Southern California, announced the release of their new line of super-fruit wines - frē-bē™ - short for a "friend with benefits".  The brand was created to emphasize the health benefits of wine made from these vitamin-rich super-fruits.

Where many traditional wines can be bitter and oaky - frē-bē wines are crisp, well-balanced, and fruit-forward. Because they are crafted from fruit other than grapes, frē-bē wines will appeal to many people who may not have a taste for traditional wine. The line has been tailored to appeal to younger, more health-conscious consumers that enjoy the growing foodie culture.

"It is time to try a wine that you do not have to learn how to appreciate," says Brian Haghighi, Co-Founder/Chief Marketing Officer at California Fruit Wine. "Unlike grape wines, fruit wines taste good from the first sip. And without the complex foreign language surrounding wine, the frē-bē line will be neither confusing nor intimidating."

The first three frē-bē wines are:
- It's Complicated - Blueberry Wine
- Head Over Heels - Raspberry Wine
- No Strings Attached - Pomegranate Wine

California Fruit Wines are available in various retail outlets throughout Southern California as well as in the Vista tasting room. California Fruit Wine Company is located at 1040 La Mirada Court in Vista, CA. Contact by phone or 858-522-WINE or on the web at http://www.californiafruitwine.com

Here and There in the Wine & Food World

by Frank Mangio
In the fast-moving world of wine and food the only thing that is constant is change.  My personal pillar of fine wine and fine dining in the San Diego area is no exception to this dynamic.  The Grand Del Mar has revealed that its popular Amaya Restaurant now has two locations.

The beautiful, elegant Amaya of La Jolla opened with Executive Chef Camron Woods presenting menu items that made him a favorite at the original Amaya at the Grand.  Tom Voss, President of the Grand Del Mar summed it up when he said “Camron Woods is perfectly suited to be Amaya La Jolla’s executive chef, and we’re pleased to announce that his replacement at the Grand Del Mar will be Mathew Sramek, who has worked with Camron the last three years.” The La Jolla location wine collection will be structured toward California favorites, with an international collection to satisfy the most discriminating connoisseur. The list consists of 300 labels, all under $100. with over 20 wines by the glass.

The new Amaya of La Jolla has announced their Executive Chef is Camron Woods from the original Amaya at the Grand Del Mar.

Look for Chef Camron’s favorite dishes including:  Smoked King Salmon, and Slow Roasted Pork Chop. He will be adding new rustic Southern classics as a tribute to his beginnings in Charleston South Carolina. More information at www.AmayaLaJolla.com. Phone 858-750-3695.

Meanwhile Wine Director of The Grand Del Mar, the popular Jesse Rodriguez, has left to pursue a Master Sommelier designation and to pursue other interests.  The resort has a team of 13 sommeliers to fill in until a replacement is found.

Paul Hobbs is the latest Napa Valley winemaking great to know, but he is not resting on his achievements in California.  He has just added a 5th South American winery to his import portfolio, Vina Perez-Cruz  from Chile’s Maipo Alto Valley.  Most of his 80,000 case production there is Cabernet Sauvignon.  He will also make Syrah, Malbec, Carmenere and Bordeuaux blends.

Eddie Osterland is America’s first Master Sommelier, the highest distinction anyone can receive in fine wine and beverage service.  He has gone on to be a master speaker and author on wine, food and hospitality around the globe.  His latest book is now out:  “Power Entertaining: Secrets to Building Lasting Relationships, Hosting Unforgettable Events, and Closing Big Deals from America’s 1st Master Sommelier.”  After that long a title, you will want to find out more.  For instance, be sure to check out “Never Save your Best for Last.  Serve your Best Stuff First.”  Find out more about the book and Eddie at www.eddieosterland.com.

 America’s first wine Sommelier, Eddie Osterland, has authored a new book worth reading, on social events and wine.

VinDiego Brings Over 75 California Wineries to San Diego
A long-time TASTE OF WINE reader and fan, Encinitas promoter David Frischetti is bringing San Diego’s newest Wine & Food Festival to the Pavilion on Broadway Pier, Sat. April 6 from 4 to 8pm. This is a wine-only event with food sampling from fine dining restaurants in San Diego.

Vintners and food chefs will be sharing knowledge with ½ hour seminars.  A silent auction will benefit Freedom Station, helping young wounded marines and sailors get back on their feet.  Prices start at $85 per person pre-show.  Be sure to check the web site for price and attraction options at www.vindiego.com.

Wine Bytes
PAON in Carlsbad is presenting a Blind Wine Tasting Wed. April 3 to Tues. April 10.  6 one oz. tastings for $16.  Call 760-729-7377 for times.

Carol Shelton Wines will be served at a wine dinner at Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas Thurs. April 4 from 6:30 to 9pm.  Shelton is known as the Zen of Zin, and is the most awarded winemaker in the U.S.  Four Zinfandels from the 2009 vintage will be poured with a 4 course dinner.  $55. pp.  RSVP at 760-635-1066.

The Encinitas State of the City Address is Fri. April 5 from 5 to 8pm and will feature fine wines and food from local restaurants.  The wines are from Michael David and Orfila Winery.  Tickets are $20. ea.  RSVP with Thora Guthrie at 760-715-3230.

Thornton Winery in Temecula is holding a Pizza and Cabernet Winetasting Workshop Sat. April 6 from 5:30 to 6:30pm. Learn about pizza and wine making practices.  $45. fee.  Check the web site at www.ThorntonWine.com.

Divine Wine from the Heart of Tuscany

by Frank Mangio
Breaking bread with a leader in the winemaking fraternity of the legendary Italian district of Tuscany is always like visiting the papal community at the Vatican.  Tasting their wines is a true epiphany.
My latest experience was at the Carlsbad location of Vigilucci’s, operated by the affable G.M. Vittorio Homberger, where I met Andrea Cecchi with the bright, blue Pacific Ocean just a few steps away.

Cecchi Wines are a true reflection of what the lovely Sangiovese grape always should aspire to.  This grape makes polished wines of great stature, and Cecchi makes sure the tradition  is backboned in every bottle.  Andrea Cecchi calls himself a forward-thinking traditionalist.

Andrea Cecchi of Tuscany’s leading Cecchi Wines presents a new release wine to G.M. Vittorio Homberger of Vigilucci’s Restaurant in Carlsbad.

“I prefer classic structure with good acidity to go with food, moderate alcohol, and a lighter oak treatment.  From the present, we embrace the latest in oenology and vineyard management,” he said.
Castellina, an awe-inspiring hillside Tuscan town is the winemaking hub for Cecchi Wines.  It was here that Andrea’s family got its start in 1893.

The current headquarters, run by the 4th generation of Cecchis, Andrea and brother Cesare, is called Villa Cerna.  It has an altitude of 957 feet, hilly exposure with lots of sun and good drainage. Of the selections I tasted,  the one that I loved is from the 370 acre Cecchi Estate Val delle Rose in the exciting Maremma district in the southwest of Tuscany.

The wine is Val delle Rose Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2007 (suggested price $20). It has brought the Sangiovese grape, once only known through Chianti,  to a new level of divinity in a bottle.  The wine is aged in French oak barriques for peak performance followed by 8 months of bottle refinement.
Tuscan wines in the Maremma district with a 2007 vintage were rated among the highest in the last decade by Wine Spectator’s experts at an average 95 points. Enjoy this wine with veal, well-seasoned pasta dishes, red meats and cheese.

Andrea Cecchi is the family winemaker.  He makes wines from family vineyards in Castellina, San Gimignano, Maremma and Umbria.  In each area he saw challenge and greatness, and realized their full potential. Check out the Cecchi website at www.cecchi.net.

Cellar Gems Shine at Encinitas Wine Merchants
“You will love our Cellar Gems, but buy them when you see them,” advised Ellena Cassidy, one of the two partners at the new Encinitas Wine Merchants.  Cassidy and Mark Dubiel have just consolidated their retail wine store into the wine bar in the Kohl’s center in Encinitas. Dubiel, who has 37 years in the business,  also runs a highly successful internet wine business, and is able to move some household name wines in “ones and twos” into the retail/wine bar at a big discount. Regular customers always check the Cellar Gems section first and snap up the standouts.

 Ellena Cassidy is the friendly wine hostess behind the bar at Encinitas Wine Merchants. Here she serves up a Paso Robles Pay Dirt blend.

“Our menu of 20 wines by the glass changes weekly, with Friday being a premier wine flight of 3 pours with nothing but premium wines,” said Cassidy.  The day I was in, she poured a 2010 Paydirt Paso Robles blend of Grenache, Zinfandel, Syrah, Mourvedre and Petite Sirah ( $29.99). “Paso Robles wines are favorites at the wine bar and blends are very big,” she revealed.  Check out this wine oasis.

They are open Tuesday through Thursday 1 to 9, Friday and Saturday 1 to 10 and Sunday 3 to 7pm.  760-407-4265.

Wine Bytes
The new Hacienda de las Rosas Winery in Ramona has its grand opening Sat. March 23 and Sun. March 24 from 12 to 5pm.  Port and Sherry barrel tasting, specials, raffle drawings and an exhibition of Peruvian Paso horses.  Cost $10, Details at 619-840-5557.

A Saxon Brown Wine Dinner is planned for the Table 926 Restaurant in San Diego Tues. March 26 at $75. pp.  Call 858-539-0926 for an RSVP and time.

VINOPERA, a wine and music paired dinner is at ACQUA AL 2, downtown San Diego Thurs. March 28 from 7 to 10pm.  Batasiolo wines from Piemonte will pair with the dinner, with live performances from opera singers. Cost is $70.  RSVP at 619-230-0382.

San Diego Wine Co. has a Zinfandel tasting Sat. March 30 from 11 to 4pm.  $10. fee.  Details at 858-586-WINE.

A New Look at Carlsbad’s Twenty/20

by Frank Mangio
San Sebastian, in Spain, is an upscale lifestyle hang-out for the rich and famous and a lot of “wannabees.”  I have never been there, but I came very close when I visited the new look at the Sheraton Carlsbad’s posh Twenty/20 which declares itself to be a San Sebastian style restaurant and wine bar.

The new menu, shaped by Executive Chef Robert Carr, is where the “San Sebastian” spotlight shines.  With local produce, fresh seafood, grilling, spicy sauces and lots of Sangria cocktail choices, hanging out and filling up is a Spanish past-time you can easily enjoy at Twenty/20.

Executive Chef Robert Carr has orchestrated a menu direct from San Sebastian Spain, at the newly revamped Twenty/20 at the Sheraton Carlsbad.

Sangria is the house specialty, with a choice of house-made Red, White and Rose’.  The Red is a blend of Spanish Garnacha, Torres Brandy, cranberry juice and fruit such as blackberries and red grapes.
If a straight shot of pure Spanish wines is your choice, you will find plenty of favorites by the glass, including  Tempranillo from Rioja and Garnache from Calatayud.

I asked Chef Robert what seasonality there was in the menu now as winter winds down.  “We use a lot of root vegetables in the current menu.  You will see items such as beets, arugula, and tomatoes,” he revealed.   “We use braised meats in the entrees, but when the weather turns warmer, we’ll get into grilled meats, crab dishes, sardines and tuna dishes.”  He cooks his salmon with the skin on for a crispy effect, and likes an all-organic salmon out of Vancouver.

As in most finer restaurants, Twenty/20 offers a medley of flatbreads for an appetizer.  One you won’t find everywhere is the Carmelized Onion flatbread with toppings of Cebrales hot blue cheese and Arugula greens for $12.

The outdoor veranda of Twenty/20 is like a “restaurant within a restaurant” with custom designed fire and water treatments, relaxed and communal seating, state-of-the-art heating elements and an inspiring ocean view.  To make reservations, call 760-827-2500.

Wine and the Web: Still a Work in Progress
The total U.S. market for wine sales is somewhere north of 28 billion dollars. Wine shipments direct to the consumer make up just 5% of this amount, at about 1.35 billion dollars, including wine clubs and direct sales.  Take away that and the market for direct sales on the web from online companies is less than 1% of the wine market.  Meanwhile on-line retail sales of all products is forecast to be about 12% of total sales, up from 3% in 2007.

Beringer Winery in Napa Valley may look ancient, belng established in 1876.  But it has a very sophisticated  online “wine shop”  with a simple process of buying the wine you want with a 

“browse and buy” system.

Clearly wine is stubbornly resistant to the trend of buying online.  The problem to point the finger at, according to the Wall Street Journal,   is a patchwork of federal and state regulations regarding alcohol sales that makes shipping a “thorny problem.”  New York will fine you if you include any type of food with wine.  Shipping directly to customers in Utah or Kentucky could land you in jail, and Texas prohibits delivery by mail of beverages over 16% alcohol, killing the port and other dessert wine online business.  One leading online wine company had to pay 2 million dollars annually for regulatory compliance.

Two online websites and a winery do a great job of making things easier for the customer.  Beringer Winery in Napa Valley has a thoughtfully designed “wine shop” online with good prices, at www.beringer.com. Independents to try include:  www.wineexpress.com  and www.hookedonwine.com.  And for wine reviews, use www.cellartracker.com

Wine Bytes
Callaway Winery in Temecula presents Budbreak, a wine and dine event Sat. March 16 6:30 to 9:30pm.  The latest Muscat Canelli, Syrah, Dolcetto, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc will be served up with culinary creations.  $95. pp.  RSVP at 951-676-4001.

A Saturday in Spain is the theme at Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas March 16 from 3 to 6pm.  12 wines with appetizers. Cost is $20.  RSVP at 760-479-2500.

Europa Village in Temecula has its Moulin Rouge Taste of France Thurs. March 21 with their own singing waiters.  Call for time and price at 951-506-1818.

Monte De Oro Winery in Temecula hosts a Black Label Winemakers Dinner Sat. March 23.  Meet winemaker Tim Kramer and enjoy Black Label Reserve wines with a gourmet 5 course dinner by Executive Chef Taylor Harris.  Tickets are $140. and includes a bottle of reserve wine.  RSVP at 951-491-6551 x 115.

Submit articles and news releases to Mike Bragg: WineClubber@Yahoo.com

It’s “Mangia Bene” When Italians Throw a Party

by Frank Mangio
I knew it would be a memorable evening when I set first set foot inside the iconic Italian restaurant, Il Fornaio in Del Mar a short time ago.  The section for this special “Piemonte” dinner and wine pairing was one long banquet table with dozens of happy faces, face to face.

“Piemonte,” the Piedmont District of Northern Italy, is rich in culinary and wine history.  Its first recorded wines were made some 3,000 years ago. It’s the home of Barolo and Barbaresco, towns that became famous for making some of the finest traditional Italian wines.

Il Fornaio General Manager Mathew Galli and Batasiolo Wine Manager Stefano Poggi guided an Italian dinner and wine event in Del Mar.

But let’s give credit to the food first. Il Fornaio’s General Manager, the congenial Mathew Galli, followed Italiancustom with a five part harmony of food service:  Assaggini, Antipasti, Primi, Secondi and Dolce. Primi is always a pasta based dish and this time there were two: a risotto with scallops and a roasted butternut squash ravioli.  Secondi, the main entrée, was a roasted fish fillet plus a braised wild boar shoulder. Dolce, the dessert, was a hazlenut and amaretto chocolate custard.

And so it was “Mangia Bene,” the Italian phrase for “great eating.”  Of course great eating in Italy is always better with great wine and on this night, Batasiolo with its Barolo heavyweight was king,
although Batasiolo’s Barbera entry, served with risotto and the squash ravioli, won new fans with its medium bodied acidity and smooth flow though the palate. It’s perfect for light pasta dishes.

Barolo of course takes center stage, coming from the town of the same name, a small, tucked away district in Piedmont, perfect growing conditions for the native grape called Nebbiolo.  This is the backbone for Barolo and gives it the deep ruby red, spicy aroma.  It is often called the “King of Italian Wines” for a velvety but powerful taste.  It was served appropriately with the wild boar shoulder at the Il Fornaio Italian occasion.

Wine districts are tiny in Piedmont Italy, with Barolo being just 3 miles by 5 miles, but its fine

wines are known worldwide.

“Piemonte” means foot of the mountain and is the largest region in Italy, which has only been a unified country for 150 years. The terrain isso steep in most areas that it is far from being the largest producer of wine. But if only fine wines are counted, it is right up there with the Tuscany and Veneto areas.

For big, soul-warming wines, try the Batasiolo 2008 Barolo, the world’s leading producer of Barolo. ($45.)  Il Fornaio is continuing its “Festa Regionale” series with the food and wine of Calabria, now through March 17.  For more, go to www.ilfornaio.com.

2012 Great Year for Wine Sales in the U.S.
Wine Spectator reports that 325 million cases of wine were bought in 2012 in this country, 2% over last year and passing France as the world’s biggest wine market. Export sales were 1.4 Billion Dollars, with 90% of those sales coming from California. And the price of a bottle, on average, is moving up past $9. and above.

Gallo Winery’s President is quoted as saying “more than 15,000 U.S. citizens per day are reaching the legal drinking age,” along with a major shift toward wine consumption among younger drinkers.

Wine Bytes
Chandler’s Restaurant and Lounge overlooking the beach in Carlsbad, now has select half price wines on Tuesdays.  Lots of Sonoma and Napa Valley choices.  For details and RSVP’s call 760-683-5500.

San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Road has a Cabernet Tasting, Sat. March 9 from 11am to 4pm for just $10. Details at 858-586-WINE.

Bistro West in Carlsbad is presenting a Napa Valley Whitehall Lane Wine Dinner Tues. March 12 at 6:30pm.  $75. pp.  To reserve seating phone 760-930-8008.

A high-end Cabernet tasting is coming to Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego, Fri. March 15 from 4 to 8:30pm.  7 great tastes for $35.  More by calling 619-236-0005.

Europa Village in Temecula Wine Country brings guitarist Jimmy Patton in for a St Patrick’s Day concert, Sun. March17 from 1 to 4pm.  Free admission.  Try their green Sangria. Wear green for a  costume contest.  Details at 951-216-3380.