Mondavi Wines, Five Years Later

by Frank Mangio
I admit, I had stopped being a fan of Robert Mondavi wines since the woeful takeover of the family’s winery and vineyards in 2004 by the giant holding company, Constellation.  The story of that dark day in Napa Valley doesn’t need repeating here. That is not the intent of this column as you should be able to tell by the title.

When Robert passed away at nearly 95 in 2008, it was the passing of a legend in the making and marketing of Cabernet Sauvignon, that set a standard for this Bordeaux-bred varietal. In reviewing the most acres of California wine grapes planted in 2012, Cabernet is just about even with Chardonnay, another highly promoted Mondavi wine.  The Robert Mondavi 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has just been released and I will be the first to tell you this Cab, at $27.95 is a sizzler with classic blackberry and chocolate flavors with smooth tannins.  Grapes are sourced from the Stags Leap and Oakville districts, with its famous ToKalon vineyard. Another I would recommend would be the 2010 Robert Mondavi Carneros Pinot Noir at $17.

Two sons, Michael and Tim Mondavi must be given credit for the unequaled success of Robert Mondavi Winery.  Both learned well from their father.  In the mid-90’s, seeking ever more money for expansion, the 3 made a fateful decision to go public.  Son Michael handled marketing and sales, and son Tim focused on the winemaking.  Global acquisitions came next with ever-stressful efforts to show a bigger bottom line.  The winery peaked in 2001 with sales of more than 9 million cases of wine, worth more than 500 million dollars. With the recession and events of the early part of the 2000’s and Robert’s ambitions in philanthropy, Robert Mondavi Inc. fell into dispute and disrepair and Michael resigned in disgust.  A takeover bid of 1 billion dollars by Constellation was accepted.

Today, Tim Mondavi carries on as owner of Continuum, 42 acres in the eastern Napa Valley hills, and Michael makes several brands of premium red wine with his son Rob.  The company is Folio Fine Wine Partners, also in Napa Valley.  They are also an importer of fine wine from countries like Argentina, Italy, Austria and Spain.

Robert Mondavi would have been 100 years old at this writing. If the Mondavi name was in any way tarnished with the bittersweet sale and the passing of the master, be assured all is well today, as winemakers all over the world credit this family for setting the table for wine’s greatness, now and forever.

Girard Pours at Vigilucci’s Carlsbad

Suzette Obergfell of Girard Winery with Vittorio 

Homberger of Vigilucci’s in Carlsbad.

Vigilucci’s Seafood and Steakhouse along the Coast Highway in Carlsbad and managed by Vittorio Homberger, presented a Napa Valley winery recently, Girard Winery.  Cabernet based wines dominated, although its Chardonnay, from the Russian River Valley in Sonoma, showed pinpoint acidity from this cooler appellation. Suzette Obergfell, Girard’s representative pointed to the 2010 Artistry, served with Ravioli all’ Agnello, as the flagship wine.  It’s a Bordeaux blend.($45.)  I would recommend the 2009 Girard Cabernet from Diamond Mountain on the west side of NapaValley with some of the richest, ripest grapes in this fabled area ,dominated by volcanic soil.($75.)
Learn more about Girard wines at www.girardwinery.com

Wine Bytes
The  Feast of San Gennaro, an Italian Food/Music Festival, will be at Qualcomm Stadium in San Diego May 30 thru June 2.  Tickets are $9. ea. Amusement rides, beer and wine garden.  See sangennarofeast.com for more.

Vigulucci’s Restaurant in Coronado and Murphy-Goode Winery are presenting a charity dinner and wine tasting Thurs. May 30, to benefit Operation Homefront. For more info and an RSVP call 619-522-0946.

Seasons 52 in Costa Mesa features winemaker Michael Cox for a dinner and wine tasting from Schug Carneros Estate, Thurs. May 30 at 6pm.  5 course meal with a different wine for each course.  $85. pp.  RSVP at 714-352-1701.

Villa Capri 2 off the 56 in San Diego has a Clos du Val Wine Dinner Thurs. May 30 at 6pm.  Grilled Filet Steak with Cabernet  highlights the menu.  $49.50 ea.  RSVP at 858-538-5884.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is planning a “Merlot, who needs Cab” tasting event Fri. May 31 from 6 to 8pm.  Check with them for price and wine names, at 760-479-2500.

New Winemaker in Napa Valley Makes it Right with Haitus

by Frank Mangio

The man on the move with Napa Valley wines that are making a solid statement is Mark Davidowski.

Mark was the guiding force behind the highly successful (and it still is) Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas, which he started in 2002 after a successful run as a tech specialist and wine distributor.  He implemented revolutionary strategy for a wine shop at that time, bringing in wine makers, producing major benefit wine events and establishing relationships with overseas wineries, so much so, they came to Meritage just to hang out and pour wine at its festive wine bar.

Mark Davidowski pours a pop of his 2009 Haitus Napa Valley 2009 Cabernet.

But Mark did a disappearing act a few years ago to bury himself in winemaking Napa Valley style, and a year or so ago emerged as the proud proprietor  of Haitus Cellars, with 5 varietals and blends, now offering his 2nd series of releases.  He was “back at the shop” a couple of months ago at Meritage, pouring his 2011 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($48.), 2010 Apex Napa Valley Cabernet Red Blend $40.), 2010 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($27.), 2007 Hiatus Red Syrah Blend $40.) and the 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet ($50.).

The wines I make are about all the relationships I have developed with vineyards in Napa and Sonoma for the past decade and more,”Davidowski revealed.  “ I really work hard to find and take ownership of the finest grapes I can find.  Once fermented I take over and start with the blending.  I already know what the flavor will be for the  block of grapes I get for Haitus.  I work closely with the vineyard’s top winemakers to make wine on site to my specs.  I ‘m on a first name basis with Paul Hobbs and other greats to make my style of wine. I love elegance in an earthy style, like the best Burgundies.”

I asked him about his 2007 Haitus Red which blew me away.  “ The grapes are from the Pope Valley with a rich and powerful thrust from the 39% Syrah. I put Cab Franc in for flavor.  I needed a lift for the blend so I put a small but potent percent of Zinfandel in and made it that much richer and bigger,” he concluded.

Get to know Mark Davidowski and Haitus at www.haituscellars.com.

Wines from Down Under at Villa Capri 2

My good friend Victor Magalhaes is riding high these days with his successful Villa Capri 2 among several other Italian restaurants along the Carmel Valley 56 corridor in San Diego.  If that were not enough he just bought Twisted Vine Wine Bar in the same area. When I caught up with him, he introduced me to Mark Salter, the Southwest Sales Director for Australian wines, with a few in France, Italy, New Zealand and the U.S. west coast. At Villa Capri 2, he was singing the praises of the signature wines of d’Arenberg from the

D’Arenberg wines were showcased recently at Villa Capri 2 in San Diego.  Sales rep Mark Salter

is shown on the left, with restaurant owner Victor Magalhaes.

McLaren Valley of South Australia.  The ones that broke through on taste and body were:  the 2009 Custodian Grenache ($17.50), the 2010 Footbolt Shiraz($17,50) and the 2009 Cadenza Blend ( Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre( $23.).  See more events at www.villacapri2.com.

Top Ten Most Booked Restaurants in San Diego
Open Table dot com just came out with their Top Ten voted by subscribers:
#1-Seasons 52 in La Jolla.  #2-Cucina Urbana in San Diego.  #3-Stone Brewing World in Escondido.  #4-Benihana in San Diego.  #5-Ruth’s Chris Steak House in San Diego.  #6-Jake’s in Del Mar.  #7-Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Del Mar.  #8-George’s in La Jolla.  #9-Vintana in Escondido.  #10-The Patio in Pacific Beach.

Wine Bytes
Vintana Restaurant Escondido is celebrating its 1 year Anniversary Sun. May 19 starting at 2:30pm.  Enjoy wine tasting, hosted Hors d’oeuvres and live music. Meet Executive Chef Deborah Scott.  RSVP a must at 760-745-7777.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos offers a tasting event from Hendry Napa Valley, Fri. May 17 from 4 to 10pm. Cost is $15. pp.  Wine rep Jacquee Renna appears. 760-744-2119.

Europa Village Winery in Temecula presents a mystery dinner theatre, “Murder on the  Oriental Rug,” Sat. & Sun. May 18 & 19 starting at 6pm.  Broadway costumes encouraged.  Tickets $59. ea.  For RSVP’s contact 951-216-3380.

Vin Opera, a wine and music paired dinner happens at Acqua Al 2 on 5th Ave. Gaslamp San Diego, Wed. May 22 at 7 pm.  4 course dinner with Italian wines and opera.  Cost is $70. RSVP at 619-230-0382.

Bordeaux Wines are Back with the 2010 Vintage

by Frank Mangio
Bordeaux – it’s the most elite name in the history of wine.  It’s red wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, and Petit Verdot command worldwide attention.  These Bordeaux grapes, created the backbone for the California wine miracle.

I say that because the shaping of Napa Valley’s  fabled wine success as the greatest of all the wine countries in California was woven by grapes  brought over from Bordeaux.  Eventually the Napa Valley “made in heaven” climate and soil would propel this area past its mother-earth French mentor, signaled by the “Paris Tasting” in 1976 when California’s wine entries defeated the French in each category it entered.

The current 2010 vintage of Bordeaux wines were rated the highest in over 10 years by the world respected Wine Spectator Magazine

  Up to that date, the legendary Chateau Latour, Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Petrus, Chateau Haut-Brion and so on were the world’s finest wines. They were known as wines of terroir, meaning all that they were, they derived from single plots of land.  We were led to believe that only those pieces of property could provide us with the exalted grapes that made up those bottles.

The wine landscape has certainly changed and French wines have undergone great change with new faces, who have made French wines much more approachable.

The wine districts of Bordeaux, both on the left and right bank of the  river that divides Bordeaux, must be congratulated with a brilliant 2010 vintage, cheered by Wine Spectator and other world-class publications, with the best year in over 10 years. With Cabernet on the left bank of the Gironde River and the silky elegance of Merlot on the right bank, the result was “gorgeously integrated structure for long term cellaring,” reported Wine Spectator.  But expensive French wines have lately been a hard sell.  The wild and crazy “futures” market, where collectors gather to gamble and pay cash in advance without tasting, on prices set by the wineries on future vintages, have not gone well for buyers.  The news of the excellent 2010 vintage should help in the recovery.

Some lofty prices for the 2010 vintage include:  Chateau Latour, 2010 Pauillac, rated 99 for $1,450. and Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 2010 Pauillac, rated 98 for $1,200.  It must be remembered that most French wines are not the wildly expensive, complex wines chased by multi-millionaires.  Most Bordeaux wines are modest dinner wines with very reasonable prices. In my search for a low priced 2010 Bordeaux red blend, I found a Croix De Mason Left Bank Bordeaux for just $6.00.  Drink it now and be happy you had the best French vintage in over 10 years.

Balboa Bay’s Nice Guy Chef is Josef Lageder

With a crisp glass of Napa Valley Chateaux Montelena Riesling in one hand, the Balboa Bay Resort’s Executive Chef, Josef Lageder, took me on a words-eye tour of Southern California’s version of Portofino Italy.  With the yachts almost within reach, Chef Josef traced his roots in Italy’s Alto Adige, where healthy salads and fish where the prime presentation on the menu.

Josef Lageder is the Executive Chef of Balboa Bay Resort

For pastas, chef is a huge fan of gnocchi, with each village in Italy accenting here and there with a singularly different taste.  “I also love risottos, the world’s best comfort food,” he revealed.  Add lemon, parmesan cheese and mushroom with truffles as a garnish and you have a marvelous delicacy.”

The resort is now undergoing upscale changes and wants to be more accessible.  Duke’s Place, a tribute to actor John Wayne who was a neighbor, is being totally re-done with an open air, contemporary design and over 600 wines to select from.  The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. See www.balboabayresort.com.

Wine Bytes
Bacchus Wine Market downtown SanDiego offers an Affordable Bordeaux wine event Sat. May 11 from 2 to 8:30pm.  6 red and white wines poured for a $20. charge.  Call 619-236-0005.

An Artisan Festival is planned for Orfila Winery Sun. May 12 in Escondido from 3 to 7:30pm.  20 local artists and vendors with 10 gourmet food trucks and live entertainment.  $20. ea.  Club members discounts available.  Call 760-738-6500 x 22.

Mothers Day is being celebrated with a special 3 course brunch at Fleming’s.  Lots of entrée choices for $36.95 and a $25. dining card rebate for Mom.  Call 858-535-0078 for an RSVP.

The Rotary Club of Bonsall presents the annual benefit Wine, Brews and Blues Festival Sat. May 18 from 5:30 to 10pm at the Ca. Center for the Arts in Escondido.  Wine and handcrafted beer tastings, tasty bites from local restaurants, silent auction, cigar lounge, and dancing to live blues bands.  Tickets are $65. pp.  For more information 760-695-4042.  Purchase tickets at www.BonsallRotary.com.

New Wines and Summer Concerts Uncorked in Temecula

by Frank Mangio
The sun shines brightly in Temecula this time of year.  My e mails are full of good news from the 35 + wineries, offering  big names, big bites and big vintage wines. It’s the new world version of the sound of music in the vines.

Nobody does it better than Thornton Winery producing 20 Champagne Jazz concerts from Saturday May 4 through Sunday October 20. It’s Thornton’s 25th season of presenting leading Jazz headliners that draw from all over to enjoy the brightest stars, like:  Peter White, Michael McDonald,

Thornton Winery is the Temecula venue for top drawer Jazz concerts as the season starts May 4th.

Dave Koz, Mindi Abair, Kenny G, George Benson and many more.  One thing always stands out with Thornton concerts.  These events are well attended by concert-goers who love the music and appreciate that these musician who could be playing in large arenas commanding many more dollars, choose to return to Temecula year after year.  I have spoken to many who love playing this venue.  The sound system is flawless, Chairs for general seating are set up so that every seat is a good seat, and those who buy dinner tables have an intimate club atmosphere as they enjoy the music, sip their wine and savor a full menu of gourmet food.

For artist dates, times and Champagne Jazz tickets, go to www.thorntonwine.com.

Proving that there is always room for another great Jazz concert series for another great winery, Leonesse Cellars, in the DePortola Trail district of Temecula Wine Country, introduces its “Friends and Wine” lineup from May though August, hosted by Jazz and R& B great Ronnie Laws.  Kickoff concert on Mothers Day, May 12, is the “First Lady of Jazz,” two time Grammy winner , Diane Schuur with a performance at 4:30pm. The series of three concerts will benefit Our Nicholas Foundation, supporting music therapy for students with autism, and placement of musical instruments in local Temecula Valley schools.

Diane Schuur, two-time Grammy award winner and performer at the White House and Carnegie

Hall, will open the Leoness Cellars Jazz concert series.

Following the opening concert, Joe Sample, pioneer of contemporary Jazz piano and a Platinum selling recording artist, will play on Sunday, June 9th at 4:30pm.  Ronnie Laws, formerly with Earth, Wind and Fire, will play Saturday July 20th at 7pm.  The top tier VIP concert tickets include a winery tour, a meet and greet the artist, wine reception and prime seating.

Concert producer Joel Reese is encouraging guests to bring a musical instrument of any kind to donate to the Our Nicholas Foundation.

Leoness Cellars concerts are outdoors on the vineyard lawn.  It has an outdoor restaurant for food service.  For concert pricing and other information, call 951-302-7601, extension 150 or access www.leonesscellars.com.

Most Temecula Wine country wineries are making a concerted effort  to offer Jazz and other types of music on the weekend as a free accompaniment in the tasting rooms and outdoor lawn areas, so as you cruise around, enjoy the sound of wine.  It’s music for the palate.

Wine Bytes
The Junior League of San Diego has a Food and Wine Festival at La Jolla Cove in La Jolla, Sat. May 4 from 2 to 6pm.  Over 50 restaurants and beverage companies will participate. Cost is $75. with VIP perks for $125.  Ticket info at 858-869-5771.

A Night at the Mission Wine Tasting is happening at Mission San Luis Rey in Oceanside, Fri. May 10 from 6 to 9pm.  Sample international wine selections from Schlossadler, hors d’oeuvres and a silent auction.

Tickets $30. in advance, $35. at the door.  Call 760-213-5622.

Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas is offering a Justin Wine Dinner Thurs. May 9 from 6:30 to 9pm.  Justin is a top wine selection from Paso Robles. Cost is $65.  Make an RSVP at 760-635-1066.

Speaking of Paso Robles, this wine country is presenting its annual Wine Festival, with 60+ wineries planning to pour in the downtown city park on Fri. May 17 thru Sun. May 19. Times and prices vary, so check out the web site at www.pasowine.com.