by Frank Mangio
The world’s largest fine wine growing area, the mighty Bordeaux appellation on France’s west coast, has proven once again, it is the yardstick to measure all great wines. Its’ “Bordeaux Style” was the blueprint for a once neophyte Napa that took this blend and made it their own. Now, the Bordeaux 2005 vintage is showing up in wine departments and shops everywhere and the raves are unanimous. The prices are sure to please.
Of course you can pursue at Chateau Lafite Rothschild, one of a handful of premium, so called “first-growth” wines at hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars, but the good news here is that most ’05 Bordeaux wines are beautifully crafted and priced within reason. For the price of the Rothschild, you can pick up some 30 bottles of most others. The Bordeaux terroir claims some 12,000 vineyards in two distinct districts: the West Bank consisting of Haut-Medoc (oh meh doc) and Pessac-Leognan (pay sac lay oh nyahn); and the Right Bank with St-Emilion (san tem eel yon) and Pomerol ( pohm eh roll). Both areas grow Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as Cabernet Franc. The really great Cab blends are found on the Left Bank, with luscious aroma and taste of the earth with significant black currents, plums and spice. These wines can be very dry for the first few years with heavy tannin influences. Eventually they will show complex bouquet and soften to a velvety texture. The Right Bank wines of Pomerol and St-Emilion are different in that they mature faster, with more of a Merlot influence which makes them less tannic.
Recently, Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas hosted Aquitaine Wine Company of Bordeaux, a “negociant” ( representative) for a number of small, well-known wineries on both sides of the “banks.” Three of their vineyard clients ( shown in accompanying photo) presented their ’04 and ’05 offerings: Kirwin from the Margaux district, Canon La Gaffeliere, D’Aiguihe, Peyreau, Lussac, Vieux Maillet, Franc Mayne, Dassault and La Fleur, all from the St. Emilion district.
Jean-Christophe Calvet, President of Aquataine was excited about the excellence of the ’05 harvest and the artisan style, handcrafted wines he represents. “Our wines are especially food-friendly with this harvest. With the right bank, you have the kingdom of Merlot, growing beautifully in our clay and limestone. In all of the Bordeaux terroir, you have, like spices in food, five different varietals blended together, the others being Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec.” I asked him about the great number of small production vineyards and how they all fit in. “There are over 50 appellations in Bordeaux”, he answered. “Over 800 million gallons of wine are produced. Over 12,000 chateaus grow grapes and they average about 50 acres each. Our winemakers here are from the St Emilion area of Bordeaux, truly the most exciting of the Merlot growing areas in the world.”
Count Stephan von Neipperg, a German owner and winemaker from Chateau Peyreau and a “Grand Cru” grower whose family of winemakers dates back to the 13th century, was pouring the ’05 Peyreau and Canon La Gaffelier, two high quality “luxury” wines. “Only 5% of all these vineyards in Bordeaux are really making great wines and paying particular attention to four fundamentals of these excellent wines: the soil or terroir, the knowledge of making quality wines, the patience to understand how to make great wine and the money to invest in the number of years it takes to make great wine. You cannot make great wine and make a lot of wine. In our business, small production means a better chance for great wines.”
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