Monday, February 25, 2008

Creative Juices Flow in Blending

by Frank Mangio

Ever wonder why some wines have sexy and exotic names on their labels?

Like perfumes that feature blended scents, wineries choose to blend a combination of ingredients to arrive at a subtle, singular taste that is theirs alone. Names like Opus One and Insignia in Napa, Isosceles and Rhapsody in Paso Robles; and closer to San Diego, Amante and Inspiration.

Blending is not a new thing. It is the combining of two or more wines with the goal of enhancing the flavor and complexity of the wine. Virtually all wines from Bordeaux and Champagne France are blends, as are wines from the south Rhone Valley. Italy started making blends contrary to the Italian government’s strict standards, starting in the early 70’s when Antinori broke tradition with its blended Tignanello. Today, Tignanello is the number one wine in Italy according to the latest rankings by Wine Spectator. It is made from 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cab Franc.


Photo: Rhone Blending Workshop Student at Temecula's Thornton Winery.

A few weeks ago, I attended a fascinating “Rhone Blending Workshop” at Thornton Winery in Temecula, taught by winemaker Don Reha. The fundamentals of blending were summarized, then each participant was given a portion of estate and another vineyard of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache from two vintages and Viognier; plus the tools for a successful blending of these wines. The students, were told to carefully taste all the wines, then to mix them into a selected blend, recording the percentages within Reha’s guidance. At times it appeared to be a splashy chemistry lab, as the guests tried and adjusted the portions for what seemed like hours. Reha then went over all the submitted blends and offered comments on each. It was a brilliantly conceived event.

Nothing like getting a hands-on experience to begin to understand what wine makers go through to create an exclusive blend; one that will please the wine-consuming public.

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