Italian Grape from Chianti Revealed in California

LEON SANTORO, the FAMED "RHONE RANGER" TASTING THE NECTAR OF ORFILA WINERY (Foto by Frank)

by Frank Mangio

Italian winemakers are a romantic lot. The language of wine, especially in Tuscany, is meandering poetry, words of love and some hyberbole.

Take Chianti, or more recently, Chianti Classico. Over the years Chianti was getting a bad name, so some of the more influential vintners coaxed the government to crack down and raise the standards. Now, Chianti can only be made in a district called Chianti Classico. It not named for the grape, which in my judgment is one of the most lovely in the world: Sangiovese. Sangiovese has relaxed elegance with a taste of the terroir, the earth from which it was raised. You will taste a lively acidity that begs for cheese, olive oil and rustic breads. I find that newly won disciples of wine that may not know wine terminology, just simply like it a lot!

Sangiovese in California is the focus of this week’s column. From north to south, unlike Italy, this grape is boldly proclaimed on the label of an increasing number of wineries and is gaining in popularity. In the north, look to Sonoma for some delicious examples as wineries like Pedroncelli grow it in Dry Creek Valley near Geyserville. Their ’05 is just out and is pleasing to the palate. The Seghesio family, back in the late 1800’s, was bottling a Chianti containing a blend of Sangiovese, considered America’s oldest Sangiovese planting. On the Central Coast, a small winery, Javardi in Paso Robles has an ’04 Sangiovese that is tasting beautifully.

I am most excited about what I see and taste in Southern California, namely Temecula’s wineries like Palumbo Family, La Cereza, Falkner, Briar Rose and others. In Escondido, Orfila Vineyards and Winery with Leon Santoro ( see accompanying photo) brings 13 years of Sangiovese love to the table. Leon himself comes from Tuscany. In 1995, his Sangiovese “Di Collina” (means hillside) won Gold at the San Francisco Fair. He smiled and said “we would have won double gold then but the Tuscan vineyard we received our plantings from, Fattoria Le Bocce, won with their ’93.” Each year since that first accolade, Orfila’s Sangiovese has medaled, including five double golds. See more at www.orfila.com.

Italian and Rhone Valley French style grape-growing represent the single best hope to put Southern California wineries on the map. The wave of wineries gaining success with Sangiovese is a real trend that is here to stay.

One Closed Case of 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild...
What’s it Worth?

Twelve bottles, a case of the above named wine treasures, have been sitting since 1984 in perfectly temperature controlled storage, owned by Gary Parker of WineSellar Brasserie in San Diego. This “vintage of the century” was one of the first to receive a 100 point rating. The wine, in the Bordeaux appellation, is considered a benchmark for the greatest wines ever made. This unopened case is being offered sealed and aged for some 25 years. A single bottle has been priced at an average $2,000.

The public has a unique opportunity to participate in an on-line auction for this case of wine. Between now and midnight March 20, Parker will be taking offers for this rare case. “I urge you to make your best offer right away…I will certainly envy the fortunate person who will ultimately possess one of the most amazing cases of wine on the planet” he said. You can send your offers or any questions you may have to Parker at GParker@WineSellar.com. His phone is 858-450-9557.