Friday, March 20, 2009

Florence: A city immortal, unforgettable, richly endowed

Italian wine specialist Marco Barat, left, and owner Martin Gonzalez, at a recent Acqua Al2 wine seminar.

Photo and Article by Frank Mangio

San Diego is no match for Florence’s culture, with priceless works by DaVnci, Botticelli, Michelangelo and the Renaissance. However there is a link to the two cities and it’s a culinary one.

In 1978, the theater district at the Piazza della Signoria in Florence was blessed with a charming Tuscan inspired restaurant called Acqua Al2, (pronounced ‘ah-qwa-all-doo-eh’).

An intimate masterpiece of dining, it proved to be an Italian artist’s haven for Florentine fine food and wine connoisseurs. Fast forward to the late 90’s and 25 year old Martin Gonzalez, world traveler and chef, is so taken by what he sees and feels at Acqua Al2 that he must open his own San Diego location.

After extensive training and education into traditional Italian cooking in Florence, Martin opened the 2nd location of Acqua Al2 in San Diego’s Gaslamp District in 2000. Food items are prepared as they would in the original Florence restaurant, with fresh baked breads, Insalata ( salads, Primi ( rice and pasta), Secondi ( steak, seafood and other entrees), homemade Dolci (desserts). Assagios are sample portions of each menu item.

For instance Assagio di Primi is a sampling of five Italian pasta dishes. The restaurant’s signature white plates, shown on the wall in the photo, are signed by special guests who have dined.

My wine menu recommendations include Banfi Rose Regale, a gorgeous sparkling wine with a pairing that compliments appetizers and desserts; and Aglianico Rubrato 2005 from Feudi San Gregorio, Campania Italy, that enhances the full flavor of a steak.

If pasta is a must on your menu selection, I suggest you try the Rigatoni alle Melanzane that features a tomato eggplant sauce, brilliantly blended with mozzarella and parmesan cheeses.

Acqua Al2 has been conducting occasional classes that have been successful and two others are scheduled. Wednesday April 1 will be a white wine class; then Wednesday May 6, a Spirits Tasting will be held. Times are 6:30pm to 8pm, for $15. per person. Hot appetizers are included as a well as gift bag. Contact the restaurant at 619-230-0382 for an RSVP. Get the full story on this distinctive Italian dining establishment at www.acquaal2.com.


Next-Generation Decanting

Serving red wine takes on a higher dimension when the wine is decanted. Simply put, decanting is the process of pouring the wine from its original bottle into another glass container with a wide opening.

The wine sits while several things happen, all good, to enhance its taste. Sediment is allowed to float to the bottom so that the tart tastes aren’t influencing your drink. Next, the wine is allowed to breathe and mature, developing the maximum taste sensation. Then there are the softening of the tannins, a taste characteristic of the grape skins that can be harsh to the palate, especially in earthly, high profile reds like Cabernet, Zinfandel, Shiraz and most Italian and French wines.

If decanting is something you want to explore, hold the wine in the decanter for at least an hour before serving, to get the most benefit from this process.

A next-generation decanter meeting with popularity is a the V-1 Decanter, one that comes with a vacuum stopper and a hand pump, to preserve any left-over wine. This is a first for a decanter. Price is about $80. and holds two bottles of wine with a “dimple” that makes for easy pouring. See www.mtrokane.com.

Aerators are growing in sales as an inexpensive and quick fix. These are six inch tall devices that pour wine through a vinturi-like capsule and in just as long as it takes to pour the wine, you have an oxygen- enriched drink for the fullest flavor. There are two to choose from: The Vinturi Wine Aerator and a later version called the Respirer with a frosted look and a glass shaped reservoir. Both are about $35. You can compare both at www.wineenthusiast.com, then hit Decanters and Aerators.

Wine Bytes
San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Rd has an all-French Burgundy, Bordeaux and Rhone Valley tasting Sat. March 28 from 11-4:30pm. Only $10. Call 858-586-9463.

In Escondido, Holiday Wine Cellar holds its monthly Blind Tasting on Mon. March 30 from 5:30 to 7:30pm, featuring 5 Sauvignon Blancs from around the world. Find out more at 760-745-1200. Just $5. pp.

Banfi Wines from Italy take center stage at Olivetto Café on Washington St. in San Diego Mon. March 30 from 6 to 9pm. 5 Course dinner included, for $75. RSVP at 619-220-8222. The Banfi Summus Estate Red is featured with the main entrée.

Wed. Apr. 1, enjoy 3rd Corner Encinitas Saracina Wine Dinner and John Fetzer who had the big Fetzer Winery. His new venture is Saracina from Mendocino. Enjoy a 4 course dinner with John and his wines for $59.95. RSVP at 760-942-2104.

A Meet the Winemaker dinner is featured at Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo, Wed. Apr 1 starting at 6:30pm. The winery’s own Rossi Rizzo guides diners. Hosted by Café Merlot and the winery. Call for more at 858-592-7785.

Experience six food and wine-filled days in Arizona at the Scottsdale Culinary Festival Wed. Apr 14 thru Sun. Apr.19. Fabulous food, festivities, cooking demonstrations and headlined by the Great Arizona Picnic on Sat. and Sun.
Go to www.scottsdaleculinaryfestival.org for the full story and tickets.

Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur, certified by Wine Spectator. He is one of the top wine commentators on the web. E-mail him at mangiompc@aol.com

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