Tuscany in the Desert

by Frank Mangio
It was a sunny, temperate day in Palm Desert recently, adding a lively garden atmosphere to the driveway leading to the grand entrance of the JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort and Spa. I was there to renew my friendship with Paul Bologna, the wine sommelier for the restaurants, and to review the lush Italian style Tuscany Ristorante that sits by a lake within the property. Paul was guiding guests through a holiday wine tasting of California and Oregon Pinot Noirs at the boat dock.

His “Pinot Showdown” pitted Oregon names like Domaine Serene and Chehalem Reserve against California’s Sequana and MacPhail Toulouse. All were lovely picks, but I am partial to Pinot in Oregon so my favorite was the ’05 Chehalem from the Willamette Valley.

Tuscany’s menu, with its Northern Italian cuisine, is the creation of Executive Chef Oliver Wolf. He contributes to the relaxed, sophisticated atmosphere with a lovely selection of wines and fresh, seasonal flavors. The venerable Lobster Ravioli is chef’s favorite and has been on the Tuscany menu since its inception.

Tuscany Executive Chef Oliver Wolf, 2nd from the right, with his kitchen staff, prepares a menu of the finest flavors in the desert at the JW Marriott Desert Springs.

When you go, you must ask for Elena Sembenini for table service. She has been with the ristorante for 18 years. Her presentation is show business quality as she guides her diners through the history of each menu item. It is classic Italian. She personally selected my wine, Castel Ciocondo Frescobaldi 2004 Brunello di Montalcino. Its elegance cannot be overstated.

The wine list, a world tour of all that is superb, touches all budgets and is a credit to the selection decisions of Paul Bologna.

Life is beautiful when it’s spent dining at Tuscany Ristorante at JW Marriot’s Desert Springs. www.desertsprings.com.


What’s in your Cooler?
Keeping wine for years, to open and enjoy at another time, was the last thing I thought I would do when I began collecting my knowledge and thoughts about the qualities of great wine. After a while I began to realize that some red wines do get more magnificent with age.

They become like prized possessions, stored away developing flavors that would be unknown without years of aging.
Old world red wines, whether from the country of origin or a new world adopted country, do best when aged. These are big in tannins, those character-building components of the skins and seeds of grapes that make wine live longer.

My wine storage and coolers hold about 300 bottles of reds, the oldest being 10 years old. All will be consumed as I don’t believe in “collecting wine” just for the sake of name-dropping. Tuscany Italy and Napa Valley California are the wine countries I favor. Varietals I prefer to keep in storage for increased body and flavor include: Cabernet, Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Tempranillo, Barolo, Barbaresco, Syrah, many blends from France, Super Tuscans from Italy, Sonoma, Napa Valley, Paso Robles and Temecula.

My prize wine, until I drink it, is a Sassicaia Super Tuscan.

A couple of last thoughts on storing wine: Always keep the bottles laid down horizontally to keep the cork moist, and keep a record of what you have, when you bought it and exactly where it is stored. Salute!


Wine Bytes
San Antonio Winery in downtown Los Angeles has a wine seminar luncheon, Understanding Bordeaux Varietals, on Sat. March 20 from 1 to 4pm. Call 323-223-1401 for pricing and details.

The 9 DePortola Trail Wineries of Temecula are presenting a Zinfandel and Pasta Fest Sat. and Sun. March 20 and 21 from 11 to 5pm. Each winery has pasta, wine and a logo glass for guests. $45. fee. Tickets at the wineries or access www.deportolawinetrail.com.

West Steak, Seafood and Spirits in Carlsbad is hosting the Caymus Napa Valley Family of Wines Mon. March 22 at 6:30pm. Enjoy a five-course dinner featuring seared Prime Angus Filet Mignon paired with Caymus Wines. $95. ea. RSVP at 760-930-9100.

BICE Restaurant in the Gaslamp District downtown San Diego celebrates several winemakers from Italy with a 4 course dinner paired with Chianti Classico, Barbaresco, Barolo, Montepulciano and other Italian districts, Tues. March 23 from 7 to 10pm. $80. pp. RSVP at 619-239-2423.

The Napa Valley Vintners will be well representated at a wine tasting at Fleming’s Prime Steakhoue in La Jolla on Thurs. March 25 from 6 to 8:30pm. Enjoy small bites and big wines with winemakers. $45. ea. Contact Fleming’s at 858-535-0078.