Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Mendocino Pinot Possesses Panache

by Frank Mangio
If you are heading up to Northern California wine country, plan some time in the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County and celebrate the Pinot Noir Festival with the locals Saturday and Sunday May 14 and 15. OK, I will admit I would rather be in Oregon if I’m on a “best-of” hunt, but I’m open to any discussion when it comes to “may the best Pinot win.” Pinot has a richness and diversity that makes it the royal flush of the wine world. And Anderson Valley does its best to keep up with the front-runners with its unique viticultural climate of warm sunny days and cool, foggy nights.

Swiss and Italian settlers planted first in the mid-1800’s. A venerable old name, Italian Swiss Colony Winery is located at the southern end, in Asti. But it wasn’t until 1983 that the valley officially became an appellation with its Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer dominating. Goldeneye, part of the legendary Goldeneye in the Anderson Valley has 5 Pinot Noir entries. Duckhorn Vineyards, was chosen as the winery to host the Pinot Noir Grand Tasting 11 – 3pm, Saturday May 15. The winery is between Boonville and Philo on Highway 128. There will be over 100 Pinots to taste, but I expect Goldeneye will get the most attention.

They are not the budget Pinots you taste in the south of California. This is the real deal, with their 2007 Anderson Valley Pinot retailing at $55., to the 2007 Ten Degrees priced at $100. on their web site.

Zach Rasmuson is Goldeneye’s respected, dedicated winemaker. He worked long and hard at Napa Valley’s Stags Leap under the great Warren Winiarski who instilled in him the Bordeaux style of red winemaking. Zach always had an eye for Pinot Noir and the Anderson Valley, and when his time came in 2003, he joined Goldeneye as their winemaker.

“Pinot Noir is an amazing, malleable grape, he asserted. “You need to be gentle. It’s a process of minimal intervention, of finesse not muscle. We’re not trying to replicate the wines of Burgundy (where the grape comes from) at Goldeneye. Pinot reflects its terroir with remarkable clarity. We have an extensive palette of flavors from which to create. The result is an extracted, elegant wine.”

Mendocino Wine Country has about 84 wineries, emphasizing handcrafted, artisan style wines. Some names to know beside Goldeneye are: Edmeades Winery that features old vine Zinfandel, Fetzer Vineyards, one of the biggest value wines in the world, Parducci Wine Cellars, Rosati Winery, Cakebread Cellars and Philo Ridge. For more on these wineries and others, access www.truemendocinowine.com.

Eat, Drink and Enjoy at Canapes
A fascinating personality in the fast-growing San Marcos restaurant and wine scene has triumphed with his new, stylish Canapes, in Restaurant Row. James Allyn can now commute across the street from his North County Wine Company to his serendipitous Canapes, featuring more than 30 small plate culinary delights from almost every corner of the world. The flamboyant food and wine entrepreneur took me through his wine list with a huge selection “by the glass.” And there it was: the Goldeneye Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley Mendocino. A look inside featuring the area of Canapes in San Marcos.

Allyn deftly took me through a mixed menu of his brilliantly crafted small-bite “sideways, munches, feasts and tastes,” with a perfectly paired group of wines that tapped into the flavor of the selections. Many of his menu items are gluten-free, vegetarian dishes underlining local, fresh produce. With the beef, it’s only Certified Angus. Up to 30 menu choices, with a wine/beer list of over 130 names to pick from. The outside patio will get really popular as the weather warms. Two firepits and live bands will keep it full of music-lovers. Canapes offers catering and soon will be announcing a Saturday and Sunday brunch.

Canapes (Can-ah-pays) means small plates in French. “Mi contento” is Italian for “I have had my fill and I am happy.” That’s exactly how I felt after a visit to Canapes. See www.CanapesGrill.com. Call 760-510-2088.

Wine Bytes
The Grand Collaboration at Addison in the Grand Del Mar is Fri. May 14 from 5:30-10pm featuring Viader and Summerland Wineries. A grand menu will be presented by both Addison and Amaya chefs with a six course dinner and wine pairings. $125.pp. Call for an RSVP at 858-314-2000.

Barrels and Branches Nursery in Encinitas presents a wine tasting and food pairing Sat. May 15 from 6 to 9pm. Five different Relm Wines will be served. Live Music. Cost is $32. For details call 760-814-1198.

Oregon and Washington wines are side by side in a tasting at Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp District of downtown San Diego Sat. May 15 from 2 to 9pm. Enjoy Pinot Noirs, Cabs, Merlots and many blends. $20. tasting fee. For more info, it’s 619-236-0005.

La Costa Wine Company has its big Wine Expo 2010 on Sat. May 22 from 2 to 6pm. Over 50 wines will be tasted from all over the world. Purchase them at huge discounts. Appetizer are specially prepared by “Dinners by David.” $15. fee. RSVP only by contacting 760-431-8455 for this special event.

The 28th annual Paso Robles Wine Festival is Fri. May 21 through Sun. May 23. A Wine Auction and Dinner is added this year on Sat. May 22. This is Paso’s biggest event of the year. Details at www.pasowine.com. Or phone 805-239-8463.

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