Sightseeing in the Aisles of Wine

by Frank Mangio
If you are really into the wines, one of your favorite pastimes is to search the aisles of wine shops and wine departments of huge retailers like BEVMO and COSCTO. Buying wine is no sure thing. The only thing for sure is that there are whites and reds.

Everything else is really window-dressing and your experience with tasting the wines. That’s why I urge a “core and explore” strategy. Your core wines are brands and vintages you can rely on for consistent quality. Then allow say 1/3 of your wines and budget for the “explore” part. Those would be the vast number of new wines brands and varietals that you have not tried. Chances are some of those “explorations” will be so good, that you will want to add them to your core list.

So what’s really selling these days. I decided to check on the inventory renewals at COSTCO’s biggest selling wine department in my home town of Carlsbad.

California’s best selling varietals, despite all the words of praise from we wine writers for newer sensations, is still Chardonnay for a white and Cabernet Sauvignon for a red. This was underlined by current sales and inventory at COSTCO. Their stock of Chardonnay is led by Clos Du Bois, La Crema and Beringer.

Checking out the Cabernets, the biggest seller and the highest inventory of any wine at COSTCO is the venerable and all-time Napa Valley great, Mondavi - specifically CK Mondavi (the CK is for Charles Krug, where members of the family make premium wines, as well as this value wine.) This is not to be confused with Robert Mondavi wines, bought out some years ago by an international conglamerate.

Other cabs that are moving at COSTCO include: Louis Martini, Montes Alpha and Casa LaPostoll from Chile. Other big red movers are: Cambria Pinot Noir, Dona Paula Shiraz/Malbec from Argentina, Tin Roof Merlot, Villa Pillo Toscana Rosso Borgoforte from Italy, Manage A Trois red blend and Kirkland house brand Merlot from Washington.

New Tastings Worth Telling
Where do I begin. I just returned from the Napa Valley, more convinced than ever that it is the greatest growing grounds for wine in the world, with lots of fabulous tastings, but that will be reserved for a future column. As I write this, a large real estate investment trust has just announced a purchase of Beaulieu and Sterling Vineyards, both from Napa Valley. Foley Family Wines which has Sebastiani and Wattle Creek, has just added Chalk Hill from Sonoma. OK, so those are business trends. Here are some special tastings:

Lewis Cellars Chardonnay Reserve Napa Valley 2008. $65. The winery of the season at Amaya, the Grand Del Mar Resort. Balanced to perfection with crisp character.

Saxon Brown Pinot Noir Sonoma 2008. $41. Dynamic treatment of this “First Lady” of reds. Strawberry notes carry through to the long, glamorous finish.

Thornton Winery Petite Sirah Temecula Valley, 2007. $40. Thornton has 7 new releases out, topped by this inaugural triumph by winemaker Don Reha. Carefully aged 27 months in toasted oak.

Thornton Winery Nebbiolo Temecula Valley, 2007. $34. The northern Italian backbone grape to the famous Barolo and Barbaresco, this wine has wings and flies with its famous brethren. Rich and visceral. Expect leather, mineral characteristics.
Parallel Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 2007. $64. According to “birthday girl” Laura at Carlsbad Wine Merchants, this wine was created by Winemaker of the Year Phillipe Melka. A prime-time serving.

Baily Vineyard and Winery Riesling Temecula Valley, 2008. $14. Made to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Temecula. Crisp, clean and smooth taste. Serve cold with chicken and pork. Can easily be an aperitif.

Fontana Fredda Briccotonio Barbera Piedmont Italy, 2008. $9. Here is one of Italy’s most delicious table wines. The Barbera grape is underrated. No concern about age. Just open it and enjoy!

Wine Bytes
§ A Temecula Valley Tasting Tour departs the Mission Bay Visitors Center on Sat. July 10, 10am to 5pm. Stops at 3 favorite wineries: Briar Rose, Falkner and Leonesse. Cost is $100. ea. Includes vineyard tours, tastes and snacks. Call 619-233-8687 for more.

§ Il Fornaio in Del Mar has a Festa Regionale, headlining a Taste of Toscana, now to July 18. Wine choices include Chianti Ruffina and Mazzoni Super Tuscan with entrees like Bistecca alla Fiorentina. RSVP at 1-888-ITALIAN.

§ The new Wines@WholesalePlus is open in the San Diego Culinary Center across from the Convention Center. A Super Saturday Sampling happens Sat. July 11 from 4 to 7pm. You get 10 wines for $10. with appetizers. Details at 619-231-6400.

§ Capri Blu Italian Bistro west of Rancho Bernardo has a Ferrari-Carano wine dinner Tues. July 13 starting at 6:30pm. A fabulous four course dinner and 5 wines from Sonoma’s Ferrari-Carano. $65. pp. Reservations at 858-673-5100.

§ The California Wine Festival Santa Barbara is Thurs. thru Sat. July 15 to 17. Highlight is the Sat. Beachside Wine Festival at the Santa Barbara Pier. Prices vary, so check out the website at www.californiawinefestival.com.

§ The 2nd annual Mouton Noir Wine Dinner is at Amaya in the Grand Del Mar Resort Fri. July 16, 5:30 to 10pm. Four course dinner with wine pairings, $70. ea. Celebrate a collection of small growers from around the globe. RSVP at 858-314-2036.