The Mondavis Move On and Up

by Frank Mangio
Quietly, without fanfare, Michael Mondavi, favored son of the great one of wine, the late Robert Mondavi, is re-building his place in the Napa Valley Wine Hall of Fame. Michael’s story is the stuff of legends, after 40 years and 2 empires. The current success is Folio Fine Wine Partners.

TASTE OF WINE visited with Michael recently at his estate in Napa Valley and found the passion and heritage in place, but with a relaxed and mild-mannered posture. If we fast-rewind the clock back to 1966, when Robert Mondavi Winery was first-born, Michael was already winemaking and with fire in his belly. He was determined to show his father he could be every bit as good as Mondavi confidants Warren Winiarski and Mike Grgich, two Napa greats, who would later leave Mondavi and present wines that would topple French dominance in the “Judgement of Paris” in 1976.

Michael is now beyond the go-go days that ground out one of the largest public wine companies in the world. In 2004, he and his son Rob, daughter Dina and wife Isabel combined fine family wine with world-wide premium wines from Italy, Spain, France, Austria, Germany, Australia and New Zealand.


Mondavi patriach, Michael Mondavi, founded Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa producers and importers of wine from exciting countries around the world.

The tradition continues as son Rob is now the winemaker at Folio, highlighted by the 2007 M, a Cabernet aged in mostly new French oak barrels for 22 months. The wine is rich yet supple, and has soul beyond its years. This is Michael’s signature wine. It was racked several times then cellared15 months in bottle before release.( $200.) Michael was quoted as saying that “wines are like people; some age quickly and flame out; others continue to improve over the years. You never get a second chance to make a first impression.”

It’s been a long time since the chaos of the boardroom at Robert Mondavi Winery and age has been kind to Michael Mondavi and his true family. He and his son are making the best wine of their lives and he is a happier man for it. See for yourself at www.foliowine.com.

Vigilucci’s Restaurants Pour It On
Roberto Vigilucci and his team of restaurant managers are running fast lately, with an array of wine events that have stirred a lot of attention. From Coronado to Carlsbad, Vigilucci’s and fine wineries have paired up to treat guests to world-class names.

Two recent occasions included Chateau St. Michelle, pouring at the Carlsbad Coast Highway location; and the premier winery in all of Italy, Castello Banfi based in Tuscany, in a special appearance at the original Encinitas Vigilucci’s. Vittorio Homberger, the affable manager in the Carlsbad coast location, runs a lovely, contemporary seafood and steak Vigilucci’s with a sweeping view of the Pacific Ocean.

Chris Livingston with Marc Lipovac of Southern Wine & Spirits, help manager Vittorio Homberger at a recent Chateau St. Michelle wine event at Vigilucci’s Carlsbad.

Based in Washington, Chateau St. Michelle is a major west coast wine producer with a portfolio of familiar fine wines. This night, we were treated to a wine that made my top ten last year: the 2008 Eroica Riesling, a product of the genius of Chateau St. Michelle’s winemaker and Germany’s best winemaker, Dr. Ernst Loosen. The name itself is a product of the musical genius of Beethoven and his Third Symphony. It sells for $25. You will love the crisp acidity. Another that has showed up on my previous Top Ten lists is Erath Pinot Noir from Oregon. It is in top form with the current 2008 release.( $19.). Fruit forward silky finesse with concentrated structure. In Encinitas,

Manager Paolo Pastorelli brought in Castello Banfi with their Educational Director Sharron McCarthy. Sharron informed us that 3 generations of the Mariani family have guided Banfi to a prime position in the Italian wine world, from Castello Banfi in Montalcino, Tuscany, to Banfi Vintners a world-class wine distributor.

“The reds with the Banfi banner are made on our 7,100 acres of vineyards near Montalcino that have virtually 100 micro-climates, enabling Banfi to produce wine grapes from Pinot Grigio to Brunello,” she said. She was especially fond of the 2007 BELNERO, an exciting Super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese and French varietals, and made a point to remind us that Banfi reds are best served at 64 to 67 degrees instead of “room temperature.”

Castello Banfi is a featured visit on the TASTE OF WINE Tuscan Tour October 7 to 10, part of our Celebrity Mediterranean Cruise from October 10 to 20. You can find out more by calling 800-359-3772.

Wine Bytes
Meet the Chefs of Del Mar Sun. Apr.10 at the Hilton Del Mar from 1 to 4pm. Top chefs are presenting their best dishes and fine wines. Drawings for exciting food and wine prizes. Tickets are $125. VIP $185. All proceeds to Casa de Amparo. Visit www.casadeamparo.org or call 760-754-5500.

Wine Vault in San Diego brings in Cass Winemaker Ted Plemons for a wine dinner Sun. Apr. 10 from 5 to 9pm. Ted has made my column many times with his Paso Robles Rhone Valley style. Reception at 4:15pm. Cost is $49.50. Contact by phone at 619-295-3939.

Keyways Vineyard and Winery in Temecula has its annual birthday Karnival Sun. Apr. 10 from 3 to 6pm. Games, food, wines and more. $25. for club members, $35 non-members. $10. for kids 5-12. Call 1-877-KEYWAYS.

Orfila Winery in Escondido has its next Concert in the Vines with artist Laura Roppe singing Sun. Apr. 10, 4:30 to 6:30pm. Tickets are $20. Call 800-868-9463.

Flemings Steakhouse & Wine Bar in La Jolla has a Justin Winery event Fri. Apr. 15 at 6:30pm. Appetizers and a 4 course dinner. $95. pp. Call for an RSVP at 858-535-0078.