Charcuterie, Mustard and a Dierberg Surprise at AVANT

by Frank Mangio
After 44 years as a slightly stuffy French style restaurant nestled in the Rancho Bernardo Inn, and a passing chef “celeb” who moved on to the “Big Apple,” the new AVANT has picked it up and quickly competed to be one of the top dining rooms in North San Diego County.  The new format is a complete 180 from the French style of the old El Bizcocho, which appeared to be the inside of a castle,  to a more casual, intimate dining experience with some fascinating turns, created by Executive Chef  Nicolas Bour.

He’s a maestro who believes in bright new flavors fresh from the sea, farm and garden with “contemporary California ,” a comfortable label for AVANT’s offerings.  Chef is fond of the concept of a “forward idea in dining.”  Two ideas are obviously different:  house-made mustards on tap with genuine mustard seeds from France, and charcuterie, a French pork butcher shop station that dishes up such pleasures as:  Classic Red Wine and Garlic Salumi, Berkshire Pork Prosciutto and Wild Boar Salami.  An array of cheese selections to accompany is impressive, from Ellie’s Vintage blue cheese to aged Bandage Cheddar. ($15. to $35.)

The wines are treated like royalty at AVANT, artfully selected and added to three types of presentations:  from a slick system of tap wines, wines by the glass, and by the bottle from a spectacular wine cellar, impressively on display for diners in a private special events room with a complete kitchen.

Touring the collection with me was the General Manager, a congenial man originally from Tibet , Roshan KC.  The tap wines were especially intriguing, resembling beer on tap.
A check of the varietals and names revealed 6 wines divided equally among reds and whites.
7 to 9 dollars was the average for a 6 ounce glass ( generous) with names like AuBon Climat, J Vineyards, King Estate, Spellbound and Smith & Hook.

A clear leader and in demand at AVANT are the wines from Dierberg on the Central California Coast . This was a relatively unknown winery to me, but their Santa Maria Valley California Pinot Noir 2010 was a standout on the wine list and highly recommended by KC.

Dierberg is playing well in the restaurants of San Diego County .  It was the featured wine at a recent Firefly event in Encinitas, and it’s being poured at Vittorio’s wine dinner in Carmel Valley on Thursday the 27th.  I noted it was more a Burgundian style of Pinot Noir, the kind you find up in Oregon , with higher acidity and an active, sharper flavor profile.  Its proximity to the ocean, a loam style earth mix with high drainage and 18 months in oak, underlines the Dierberg style.($44. in most wine shops)

The winery advises to drink now, or cellar for up to 10 years.  The winemaker, Tyler Thomas, says this about making wine:  “my goal is to make wines that please by their compelling nature, when you find yourself both hedonistically and intellectually compelled to go back to the wine over and over again.”

I would add that the same can be said of AVANT.  With a charcuterie and housemade mustards from a tap, the surprises continue.  In the “starter plate” try the colorful Heirloom Beet and Citrus Salad with pumpernickel, green goddess and hibiscus.  My entrée in the “large plate” was the Pan Roasted Branzini, a grilled fish entrée with Beluga Lentils, Saffron Clam Nage and Artichoke Barigoule.  For reservations, call 858-675-8550.  To explore more, see www.avantrestaurant.com.

Wine Bytes

SDSU’s Extended Studies has Exploring Wine classes, introductory to the Professional Certificate in the Business of Wine.  They will take place Mondays from Feb. 24 to March 24 from 6 to 9pm.  Get the full story at 619-594-1138 or visit www.neverstoplearning.net/wine.

Il Fornaio Cucina Ialiana on Coronado Island features the Consorzio Vini Di San Marino, wines of passion from Italy , with a 4 course special dinner. Cost is $59. ea.  Speaker for the evening is Italian wine specialist Dr. Ambrogio Pirovano.  RSVP at 619-437-4911