Time to Smell the Rose's

by Frank Mangio
There is no more elegant bottle of wine than a well crafted Rose.’  I am always captivated by this hybrid wine that radiates pleasure, coolness and seduction. Rose’ of course is not a grape varietal, it’s a style of wine; the artistry of a winemaker turned artist. Colors range from a peachy to a salmon look.  And it can mate up with a number of food pairings, especially in the summertime.

Sales have gone through the roof lately, with the largest Rose’ wine country, Provence in the south of France , reporting a large increase in sales in the U.S. over the year before. Provence has over 600 Rose’ producers, enough to make it the world capital of Rose,’ where the wine is at once lively, dry, aromatic and fruity. To underline the importance of this wine to Provence ,
it is by and large the only wine produced in this district.

Rose’ wines are produced along the south coast of France from Bordeaux to Nice.

 In Provence , the red grapes used to make Rose’ include:  Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cabernet, Caragnan and Tibouran.  Winemakers in the U.S. and elsewhere are using every other red varietal including Zinfandel and Pinot Noir.  In the appellation of La Londe, shown in the photo, the vineyards literally slide into the Mediterranean Sea.

Rose’ can be a difficult wine to make.  Its delicate color and fresh aromas require skill and attention, as time is of the essence.  The pigments that give the wine its color are locked in the skins of the grapes and are dependent on how long these skins are in contact with the juice, or in other words, color depends on the amount of time the skins “macerate.”  Rose’s are lighter and pink in tone because the grapes macerate for less time.  And that’s’ just the beginning. It takes about a year of care and attention to produce a dry, light, aromatic rose.’  The Provence people emphasize that when consuming their rose,’ for the best tasting experience, drink it at 46 to 53 degrees.  The chilliness excites the senses and brightens the flavor. Age is not a factor here.  “Drink now,” as they say.  The wines of Provence are fascinatingly detailed in the book “Provence Food and Wine, the Art of Living by Francois Millo and Viktorija Todorovska. Visit www.agatepublishing.com.

The actor Brad Pitt and actress Angelina Jolie have acquired a Provence estate  and are making Miraval Cotes de Provence Rose’ 2012. ($24. shown in photo.)

In checking on the local San Diego Rose’ scene, I visited Jim and Bill Tobin and their North County Wine Company in San Marcos . The Tobins have seen a noticeable uptick in sales, expecially in the $8 to $17. range and it’s been year-round, not just confined to summer tasting. Most buyers go for the Provence dry style Rose’s.

They carry close to a dozen brands, and most buyers are younger women.  An impressive Rose’ on the shelves this week is the Bella Vista Franciacorta Rose 2008, a vintage Italian sparkling wine with the taste of apples, rose petals and sweet almonds.  $47.97).

The international wine brand Freixenet has released a Spanish style Rose’ called Mi’a by Barcelona winemaker Gloria Collell.  Visit  www.freixenetusa.com

The California State Fair has come and gone and from it, the “Best of Show Pink” was a 2013 Dry Rose’ of Zinfandel from Pedroncelli Winery of Sonoma.($12.)  This one racked up 98 points and a double gold medal along with Best of Class of Region.

Pedroncelli wine maker John Pedroncelli has been making this wine since the early 1950’s. The appellation is the Dry Creek District, with well-drained rocky soils and hillsides.

Rose’s in California have come a long way since the sweet “White Zinfandel” jug wine days.  The best are now exhibiting fruit-forward characteristics and crisp acidity. ..and that oh so sensual pink rose look.

Wine Bytes
SDSU Business of Wine program has “Explore the Possibilities” at an Open House Wed. July 30 from 6 to 7:30pm. Find out about the details on this professional approach to the world of wine. 619-594-1138.

Vittorio’s in Carmel Valley has its once a month wine dinner event, Thurs. July 31 starting at 6pm. Enjoy the wines of Dobb’s Family Estate in Oregon with over 214 acres in the Willamette Valley .  A 5 course dinner has been paired , featuring Roast Duck Breast.  $49.50 pp.  Call 858-538-5884.

The 4th Annual Rancho Bernardo Tasting Festival and Classic Car Show is Sat. Aug. 2nd from 1 to 4pm at the Bernardo Winery, to benefit the Historical Society.  Wine, Beer, lots of food, entertainment and a silent auction fill out the afternoon.  $24. in advance, $30. at the door. 760-900-4277.

Kitchen 4140  in San Diego has a wine dinner Thurs. July 30 at 6pm, partnering with Bex of Napa.  Cost is $100. ea. Make your reservation by calling 858-483-4140. Location is in the Marina District .