Sunday, January 24, 2016

Merlot is the Queen of Red Wines

by Frank Mangio

Cabernet Sauvignon is without a doubt the King of red wines. It is the biggest seller in California and my educated guess is that it is produced in more countries that make wine than any other varietal.
So if Cabernet is the King, which varietal would receive the honor of Queen of red wines?

I can be a contrarian by my very nature.  If the herd is going one way, I tend to take the less traveled path.  So when I saw the movie of some 10 years ago, “Sideways,” all I could think about was how Merlot took such a hard landing in a blizzard of four letter words. Merlot comes from the French term “little blackbird.” According to the new Wine Bible, it’s actually a close cousin to Cabernet Sauvignon.  In Bordeaux France, one of the greatest growing grounds for red wine, the left bank of the Gironde Estuary produces Cabernet, and the Right Bank of the Gironde is Merlot country.  The Merlot pedigree is long and deep, especially in the St. Emilon and Pomerol districts.  A closer examination reveals that more than 60% of the grapes grown in Bordeaux is Merlot. Some 30% are Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc.


Duckhorn Winery in the Napa Valley enjoys prominent success as
the acclaimed Merlot on the West Coast, thanks in large part
to its chief winemaker Renee Ary.


Dan Duckhorn founded his Napa Valley winery with his wife Margaret in 1976.  Prior to that date, the Duckhorns traveled many times to the Right Bank and fell in love with Merlot.  “Fundamental to our tradition was the early decision to focus on the production of Merlot,” Duckhorn revealed.  “I liked the softness, the seductiveness, the color, the fact that it went with a lot of different foods.”  Today, under the leadership of chief winemaker Renee Ary who was appointed to this position in 2014 after an 11 year apprenticeship, Duckhorn has 7 estate vineyards located throughout the Napa Valley , as well as the magnificent slopes of Howell Mountain . Each has several different flavor profiles.

The current Merlot vintage is the 2012, a blend of 88% Merlot and small amounts of other varietals. ($47.99). Some low production select vineyards command $95. per bottle. Other noteworthy Merlots would be led by the famous Chateau Petrus from Pomeral Right Bank in France .  The current 2010 vintage, if you can find it, sells for $2,799. Back in California , delicious fruit-forward names include:  Sonoma ’s Dry Creek Pedroncelli 2013 Merlot with rich flavors of black cherry ($17.) and Stag’s Leap 2013 Napa Valley 2013 Merlot with elegance and age-worthiness. ($45.)  Up in Washington , my choice would be Leonetti Cellars Walla Walla 2013 Merlot with black cherry/blackberry and hints of dried apricots, ( $ not available ) with a 4 year wait list for their wine club.

Mathew Allen, the wine manager of the huge COSTCO wine department in Carlsbad California , probably said it best when he commented that Merlot  overcomes the beaten-down effect of “Sideways,” every time a consumer buys a blend, which is a lot of today’s sales.  Either with a 100% Merlot, or with a blend, Merlot fittingly wears the Queen’s crown.

The Right Glass for the Right Wine
Riedel, the wine glass company from Austria , has just come out with their latest wine glass.  It’s a combination Cabernet/Merlot. ( see above story for the connection).  Decidedly French, it has a thin glass skin with a thinner rim for maximum flavor profile.  Does it make any difference which wine glass you choose for a wine tasting?  You bet is does.  With all Riedel glasses, a generous bowl guarantees a healthy swirl to open up the wine and get it aerated.  The only caveat is don’t put it into the dishwashing machine to clean it.  Do it by hand and it will reward you with years of service.

Wine Bytes
A Taste of Napa Valley is the theme for a wine tasting planned for the Forgotten Barrel, Sat Jan 30 from 12 to 6pm in the Sorrento Valley of San Diego. Six wines for $10. per person, from Chardonnay to Cabernet from the 2013 vintage. Details at 886-620-8466.

San Diego Wine Company is tasting wines from Napa to Sonoma , Sat. Jan 30, 11 to 4pm for just $10.  Get some names by calling 858-586-WINE.

Catena Wines from Argentina have the spotlight at Capri Blu in Rancho Bernardo, Wed. Feb. 3rd at 6pm.  Call 858-673-5100 for details including price for this great wine dinner.

Bankers Hill Restaurant in San Diego has a 4 course Cru Beaujolais pairing dinner, Thurs. Feb. 4th at 7:30pm.  $120. all inclusive.  The chef and wine director will be spotlighted.  Get the details at 310-387-5104.

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