Monday, May 9, 2016

In Italy the Wines are Everywhere

by Frank Mangio
Italians have a nice little saying that would be good to earmark in your search for a fulfilling life of good wine and good friends: “Amici y vini, sempre meglio vecchi.”  It means,”friends and wine are always best when they’re aged.”

Making friends and making wine is the passionate lifestyle in every corner of Italy .  There are reportedly over 384,000 wineries in Italy , both big and tiny, making 377 different kinds of wine.  This is the land of wine.  The Italians brought wine to France when the Roman legions conquered the country. Now the Italians are the #1 importers of wine to the United States replacing the French.

Yet here in the U.S. there are many who have not been educated to Italian wines and their terroir taste.  Mouthfeel is less grape and more the earth and its minerality and herbs.  Soils in subclimates can change radically in vine blocks. There is a special affinity for Mediterranean food and Italian wine, unlike any other country.  When one overindulges in wine, Italians just shrug and say “he didn’t eat enough food.” There are 3 wines that I want you to be familiar with: Barolo in the Piedmont district north of Milan ; Amarone in the Valpolicello district near Varona and Brunello Montalcino in Tuscany.

Barolo is king of the reds with the power and glitz from the Nebbiolo grape.  Minimum aging is 3 years by law.  It is a dry, full-bodied robust wine, that can be aged for many years with stunning results.  Some names to know include:  Beni Di Batasiolo, Guiseppe Rinaldi, Fontanafredda, Michele Chiarlo and the legendary Gaja, a winery named after its founder, Angelo Gaja, considered the father of modern day Piedmont wines.  All these wines are expensive and can go upwards of $600.  With some digging, there are value Barolos out there for about $40.


 Moving south to the district of Veneto, the home of the sparkling wine favorite, Prosecco, a fascinating and powerful  red wine is viewed as a sensational favorite. Its name is Amorone from the Valpolicella area. The process is extraordinary as grapes are harvested deep into October by carefully choosing bunches having fruit apart from each other to let the air flow through. These grapes, Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara, are allowed to dry and shrivel on mats and drying racks to lose water and concentrate the sugars and flavors, in a process called “Appassimento.” This lasts for up to 5  months before they are then crushed and fermented with alcohol in most cases 16%.  Wines to know are:  Cesare, Allegrini, Masi, Tommasi and Alighiera. Prices are mostly from $70.  to $100.

Brunello do Montalcino, in the south of Tuscany , is our 3rd stop. The name Brunello means “nice dark one” and indeed it is as it gets its clonal history stems from Tuscany ’s most popular grape, Sangiovese.  It is only made around the medieval town of Montalcino , 600 meters straight up.  The founder of this wine is considered to be Ferrucio Biondi Santo in the 1870’s.  There are now  some 200 producers who must, by law, barrel this wine some 4 years plus 1 year in bottle, before selling.  The winery that popularized Brunello is American owned and operated, Castello Banfi.  The 7,000 acre property was purchased in the 1970’s by the Mariani family who were importers and wanted a higher quality Sangiovese (Chianti) than was then available.  Their pursuit of excellence was rewarded as they are now considered Italy ’s premier vineyard estate and the leader in clonal research on the Sangiovese grape.  Other Brunello di Montalcino names to know include:  Biondi- Santi, Castiglion Del Bosco, Poggio Antico, Il Poggione and Altesino.  Prices are in the $60. to $100. range. The 2010’s, now in release, are spectacular and will age beautifully.

Wine Bytes

Encinitas is the place to be 11 to 4pm Sat. May 21st at the Lumberyard Center . It’s the 2nd annual Encinitas Foodie Fest blending the best of North County food, drink, art and music.  15 chefs  show how to prepare farm-to-table cuisine  on 3 different stages and 6 chefs will compete for the Best of the Fest competition.  A “Barefoot Bar” will be serving a dozen or so craft beer, wine and spirits. Wines provided by Carruth, Lorimar, Meritage Wine Market and Tasting Room Del Mar. Live music throughout the fest.  Fun for the whole family to benefit the Systic Fibrosis Foundation.  Cost is $48. pp.  Ultimate Foodie VIP package for 2 with major perks including 2 nts.lodging May 20 and 21 at the Best Western Moonlight Beach for $1,000. Details at www.foodiefestencinitas.com.

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