To any world traveler (as diametrically opposed to tourist), experiencing the indigenous customs of the host country is welcomed as an interesting and educational opportunity to learn about another culture. The French greet virtually every stranger on the sidewalk going in the opposite direction with “Bonjour” (contrary to their reputation among American tourists as being somewhat stuffy), and the Scots accompany every (always hearty) breakfast with the world’s best bacon. Sparkling wine available to mix with the ever present orange juice (if so inclined), and warm milk for the coffee are ubiquitous Portuguese breakfast offerings.
After leaving Porto, our Portugal journey continued northward, with the next stop being the Pousada de Guimarães Santa Marinha, a completely restored monastery (Mosteiro). Proof that true craftsmen still exist (at least in Europe) is everywhere evident in the restored historical edifices throughout the continent, and Portugal proved to be no exception.
Guimaraes from Pousada
The monastery at Guimarães has been restored architecturally as needed, but the new and refurbished masonry work is indistinguishable from the original, of which a large part remains. Plumbing and electrical is installed in historical buildings constructed centuries ago, but is done in such a way that the wires and pipes are unnoticeable. The magnificent end result is a four star hotel in an historical building furnished with all of the modern conveniences, including a fine dining restaurant. Yet the guest walks the same cloisters, and muses contemplatively in the same terraces and courtyards, as the Augustinian Monks who built and occupied it starting eight centuries ago.
Most of the antiques that now fill the Pousada are hotel furnishing additions that enhance the atmospheric surroundings, but were not present when the monks walked the halls. No doubt, however, the stark and uncomfortable looking benches that line the long and spacious corridors of the present Pousada were familiar to the spartan lives of those long ago monks. Sternly self-disciplined by their religious vows, living rigorously simple lives, perhaps those monks would not approve of the comfort that permeates their hotel monastery today, but I certainly did.
Terrace at Pousada de Guimaraes
The Pousada sits, as did its predecessor monastery, high on a hill with a commanding view over the valley below, in which reposes the substantial town of Guimarães. My favorite place in the Pousada was a very large terraço (terrace) at the end of a long hallway of guest rooms on the top story of the former religious edifice. I found it early in my customary exploration just after checking into our room. The terrace was centered with a 15 foot high fountain, covered on its one enclosed side wall with giant azulejo (tile) panels depicting historical themes (everything here was overly spacious or of large stature) , and overlooked Guimarães far below.
Open on three sides and supported by immense (of course) stone columns, the terrace was mostly shaded from the afternoon sun and provided the perfect place to relax, enjoy the view, and reflect upon the satisfaction of finding such an atmospheric lodging in which to spend the night. The terraço was intended for the common use of all hotel guests, but we happily found ourselves entirely alone to soak up the ambience.
Pousada de Guimaraes
Guimarães was Portugal’s first capital and also the birthplace of Afonso Henriques, the first King. Its history dates back to the 10th Century, and the medieval town center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
One custom that I could do without is the meal cover charge, 4€ each at this location. Nevertheless it is a small price to pay for the enjoyment of a relaxing dinner amongst the stone columns and buried memories of the dining area in this historical monastery. The restaurant area was filled on all sides by many more azulejo panels. As these panels are done in cobalt blue, are mostly antiques themselves (fifty or more to hundreds of years old), and depict primarily historical themes, I knew before embarking on the trip that I would be a fan. Of all the things I like about Portugal, the Azulejo Panels are certainly my favorite (yes, even more than Port).
Dining Room Pousada de Guimaraes
Dinner tonight consisted of a cured duck salad with pine nuts & raspberry vinaigrette starter, intermezzo of carpaccio with melon ice cream, fig jam, and herbed crème cheese, and main course of filet mignon, with a side dish of mushrooms and rice served in a cast iron pot.
The wine this night was a red from the Dão region. The name comes from the Dão River. The Dão is a mountainous region of north central Portugal, a little east of Guimarães, and is favored with a moderate climate. The Dão has its own DOC, and for the Dão DOC to be on the label, it must be produced with at least 20% Touriga Nacional grapes. The wine I had was blended with a mouthful of other Portuguese varietals. The cost of the wine was consumer friendly.
This was the best meal of the trip thus far. On my own personal 5 point scale for food quality, I rated it 4+, a score that was only equaled or exceeded twice in three weeks, and both of those other times were in surprising locations.
In our next installment, we continue still farther north, to the Peneda-Gerês National Park, which demarcates a portion of Portugal’s border with northwest Spain. The National Park is a mountainous area of forests, lakes, and remarkable beauty.
No comments:
Post a Comment