by Frank Mangio
America is responsibly drinking alcoholic beverages in increasing amounts. 62% of us are consuming wine in sparkling champagne compared to 55% 10 years ago, and chances are on New Year’s Eve the percentage increases for Champagne, sparkling wine and port.
There is a world of bubbles out there, almost as many kinds of sparkling wine as there are bubbles inside of a typical bottle ( no, not quite since the average bottle has some 50 million bubbles in it when it’s opened).
Champagne is a city in France. It was the first to make the bubbly with a centuries-old method made from the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. Strict name and trade regulations guard the quality of Champagne.
True Champagne comes from only one region, Champagne France
with Dom Perignon the best known name.
After the grapes are pressed they are stored in stainless steel in a first-fermentationyielding a base or “still” wine. Next comes a blending process with other base wines producing a distinct quality and character. It is then bottled and a mixture of sugar and yeast is added.
The bottle is closed with a “crown cap” and laid down horizontally for a minimum 15 months to 3 years for a vintage champagne. Many vintage and premium priced Champagnes are aged longer. After aging, the yeast deposit from the 2nd fermentation is forced down the neck through a series of turns to where it is inverted, a process that takes 8 weeks by hand, much less by machine. Sweetness is controlled by controlling the time frame for fermentation. Brut is the style with the least amount of sugar content.
Dessert Champagnes will be the sweetest with over 5% sugar. Two other terms to know: Blanc de Blanc is a Champagne made from 100% Chardonnay grapes. It has a light, dry taste; and Blanc de Noirs is a Champagne made from 100% Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grapes. These wines are full-bodied and deeper yellow-gold in color.
A good source of information on Champagne is www.wineorigins.com.
American style Vintage Brut is produced largely in Sonoma, in the area known as the Russian River Valley. J Vineyards, founded by Judy Jordan of Jordan Wines in 1986, focuses on Brut and Brut Rose’ sparkling wines. The terroir driven wines are reminiscent of the Champagne District of France. Its Cuvee Non Vintage Brut starts at $24. See www.jwine.com.
Port Wines
Portugal’s most famous wine is Port and like Champagne in France, its origins produce a unique experience, in the Douro Valley and the seaport of Oporto. It is meticulously handcrafted as it was centuries ago, as a lusciously sweet and powerful dessert wine, with alcohol content about 20% for most ports.
Five native grapes are used for quality Port, but the one that has the most acclaim is Touriga Nacional. It has intense color, aroma and taste and is the prominent blend in the bottle. As with most other red wines, vintage counts with Portuguese Ports. A 10 year old Port will satisfy; a 20 year old Port will be ecstasy. Look for an aged Tawny Port for more of a nutty, brown sugar taste that can go to 40 years old before release. Names to know are: Cockburn, Graham’s, Dow’s and Fonseca.
One such recommended winery is Pedroncelli in the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, with its 2006 Four Grapes Vintage Port. The grapes, which match the best of Portugal, are estate-grown and hand-picked. It is released in 500 ml bottles and will benefit from age for the next 10 years. ( $19.) Find out more at the web site: www.pedroncelli.com.
Wine Bytes
CATCH is the newest restaurant in downtown Carlsbad. Operated by the owners of PAON nearby, CATCH promises sustainable seafood dishes, a great bar with 30 wines by the glass at $7. ea. A Sushi Bar has a wide selection of Sake. Open for lunch and dinner. Call 760-729-7904.
Bacchus Wine Market has an Early-Bird High-End Tasting on Sat. Dec. 31 from 2 to 6pm for $45. Seven premium wines will be served with world-wide names. RSVP ahead at 619-236-0005.
New Years Eve will be an event at Acqua Al2 Italian Restaurant in the Gaslamp District of downtown San Diego. A prix-fix menu of popular dishes will be served with seatings at 5:30, 7:30 and 9:30pm. Price is $65. For more, RSVP at 619-230-0382.
Via Italia Encinitas is offering a 5 course New Years Eve menu for $65. ea. Pastas include: Risotto, Pappardelle, Mezzelune, Strangolapretti and Panccheri. Call 760-479-9757.
SDSU College of Extended Studies will begin Spring Semester for its Certified Business of Wine Program with Exploring Wine on Tuesday, Jan. 24 to Feb. 21 from 6 to 9pm on the main campus. Lisa Redwine, Food and Beverage Manager at the Marine Room teaches. Call 619-594-6924 for details.
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