Rancho Santa Fe Inn Unveils the New Morada

by Frank Mangio
How do you take a historic landmark that, since 1923 has been pleasing guests with ranch-style accommodations, and dining in one of the most upscale districts in San Diego County , and clean it up with a major remodel?  The answer is, very carefully. Careful to maintain consistent comfort and the highest example of the rare ranch feel of the property. Morada is the signature restaurant that is the epicenter of the inn, with its clean, laid-back southwest style.

A farm to table format is essential.  The food menu is in the hands of Executive Chef Todd Allison who has created a carefree elegance to his menu while diners settle back in the open-arms atmosphere.  A concise 8 entrees cover bases like Maine Lobster Carbonara, Grilled Colorado Lamb loin Chops and local Honey Glazed Chilean Sea Bass which I chose, along with a side of Duck Confit Mac and Cheese.

I was delighted to see an old friend that I have enjoyed for these TASTE OF WINE years and recently named Food & Beverage Supervisor and Sommelier at Morada.  Kurt Kirschenman and I go back to his days at Loews Resort in Coronado .

Veteran wine director Kurt Kirschenman is now in charge of wines at Morada in Rancho Santa Fe .

 He chose a wine that brought back recent memories of a happy journey to Sonoma last year.  Among the other memorable wineries visited was Stonestreet, a premium wine, up in the hills in the Alexander Valley .  He poured their 2007 Cabernet Franc.  Normally a supporting varietal to Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux Blends, Cab Franc is an insiders wine with a deeply velvety, smooth texture that is unmistakably left bank Bordeaux.  “We have a new wine list with a larger number of wines offered.  I have walked all over Europe, tasting as I went, and now I have the go-ahead to not only create a broader based California collection, but dig deep into the great wineries of France and Italy,” he said.
 “My Chardonnay now include Burgundy , my Cabs are partly from Bordeaux.  I want wines from less traveled roads.  We serve a 6 ounce wine by the glass, which is more than most and we’ll be rolling out some high-end name brand cabs from Napa Valley on a test basis.”

He emphasized that training the wait staff is important to convey to the diner what they are paying for.
Sauces play an important role in wine selection, as well as entrée selection, so there may be 5 or 6 wine selections that will go with a dish.  Kirschenman hopes to bring in wine dinners, especially from the nearby wineries, long a hope of mine.Live music at the inn is now scheduled in the lobby area on the weekends from 6 to 10pm.  Morada serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with brunch on weekends from 11 to 3pm.  Learn more at www.theinnatrsf.com

Operacaffe is the Soprano Sound

Cheryl Larson, a trained soprano performing Italian Opera, serves up the joy of Italian music while diners savor delicious Mediterranean food at the San Diego Gaslamp’s Operacaffe.
Food, wine and music are the basis for the Italian lifestyle and the Operacaffe is the only one I know of that completes the trifecta with opera music. At times she is joined by celebrated tenor Rosario Monetti and pianist Bryan Verhoye.

Musical performances begin at 6:30pm  and are scheduled for the 3rd Tuesday monthly with the dining room as a stage.  It’s up close and personal and somehow the minestrone, ravioli and wine tastes much better to the cream of Italian opera.

Italian opera music is occasionally presented at San Diego ’s Operacaffe.

The menu is decidedly Florentine with several ravioli and risotto dishes. I chose the Ravioli Porcini e Crema di Tartuffi,in a  creamy wild mushroom and truffle sauce. Beef and fish dinners also abound.
The wine choice is easy, an Italian Antinori from Tuscany , the 2007 Chianti Classico “Peppoli.” It’s made with mostly Sangiovese and a touch of Merlot and Syrah.  Information and reservations for these musical evenings can be made at 619-234-6538.

Wine Bytes
An Emerson Brown Wine Dinner is planned at Amaya La Jolla Sat. Jan 25 at 5:30pm.  Join winemaker Keith Emerson for select pours accompanying a 3 course dinner. $75. pp.  Reservations at 858-750-3695.

Paradigm Winery of Napa Valley comes to Encinitas for a wine dinner at Solace, Tues. Jan. 28 starting at 6:30pm.  Sean Crowley of Paradigm presides over 4 pours at the 4 course meal.  $80. ea.  RSVP at events@eatatsolace.com.

WineSellar & Brasserie in Sorrento Valley San Diego pours Sangiovese at a wine event on Wed. Jan. 29 from 5 to 9pm.  Cost is $20. Details at 858-450-9557.

Wine Steals in Cardiff is hosting a Paso Robles vs.Napa Valley wine comparison, Wed. Jan. 29 from 5:30-7:30pm.  $5.00 ea.

Vittorios’, Camino Del Sur in Carmel Valley , is presenting a Frescobaldi Wine Dinner Thurs. Jan. 30 at 6pm.  Italian wine specialist Marcos Mizzau will introduce the 4 great varietals including a 2011 Tenuta Castiglione Super Tuscan.  $49.50 pp.  For more information contact 858-538-5884.

Holiday Getaways Near & Far

by Frank Mangio
A growing number of people I know have had it with the “rush hour” mentality of the days leading up to Christmas and extending into the New Years holiday.  Those intrepid individuals tend to park their cars in the driveways of out-of-the-way resorts with quiet ambience that signal a meditative, relaxed way to celebrate.

But first they promise themselves no more shopping malls and supermarkets for their wine and other personal gifts to family and friends that count.  “Cyber Monday” on November 26 was exhibit A that consumers are flocking to the internet for their special gifts.  Sales were up 30% over last year, while “Black Friday” on the 23rd sales were up just 4%. If you were one of those that already did your shopping on the “net” you now have time to plan a getaway to the Inn at Rancho Santa Fe. Anytime is a lovely time to stroll the greenbelts and soak in the sunshine in the areas of rest and relaxation at the Inn.  This time of year, you can enjoy the seasonal fantasy of Christmas décor, and the food, wine and fun of New years’ Eve.

The serene lawn and wooded area of The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe is striking in its beauty and serves as a getaway for many.

In researching this article I discovered that décor changes are in progress both in and out of the rooms and cottages, at all times respecting the heritage of its tradition.  The spa will be upgraded to bring it up to date and some cottages will  offer “country elegance,” on this serene property, just minutes from downtown San Diego.  A portion of the great lawn will be enhanced to include community events.

The Inn’s restaurant is already showing personality changes with a menu profile that is being crafted by Executive Chef Todd Allison who has been creating dishes since July when he came over from Anthololgy in the Gaslamp of San Diego. “I am emphasizing French dishes within the classic Mediterranean style.  I pick up fresh vegetables daily, along with fresh fish like prawns, mussels, rockfish, scallops and trout,” he revealed.  His earlier work was with the legendary San Francisco Chef Michael Mina when he ran Aqua, at the St. Regis Monarch Beach, in Orange County.

I also can recommend meeting the wine sommelier Sean Dawson who is a big backer of California wines.  He advised me on the Napa Valley Hall Cabernet with a 2008 vintage, the top Napa Valley wine from Wine Spectator last year.  It was magnificent with a New York Strip Steak. “This is a small production, very well balanced, organically grown Cabernet,”  he pointed out.  Dawson expects to be introducing a “Wines of the Pacific Coast” monthly series of events.

Food and Beverage Manager and Wine Sommelier Sean Dawson manages the 

wine program at the Inn at Rancho Sante Fe.

If you stay away from the shopping centers, you can watchthe waves crash just moments away at nearby Del Mar or Encinitas or walk the coastline and breathe in the Pacific.  Catch a room reservation or a dinner by visiting www.theinnatrsf.com.

My “far” recommendations include the Vintage Inn/Villagio Inn & Spa, both linked at Oakville in the Napa Valley.  Both are running a Great Escape promotion that you can check out at 800-351-1133.
The other I have, if price is no object, is Meadowood in St. Helena,  a quiet and cushy Napa Valley gem that features daily wine tastings, golf, tennis and croquet, and of course a full-service spa.  See more at www.meadowood.com.

Wine Bytes
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is pouring the Wines of Napa Valley, Fri. Dec. 21 from 6 to 8pm.  Cost is $20. pp.  Call 760-479-2500 for wine names.