Taste of Wine Finds: August/September 2016

by Frank Mangio

Here and there during California’s Wine Month
The past month or so have been a merry-go-round, with the emphasis on merry. Both pre-events celebrating Wine Month in California in September, and merry-making in September  and its final days have been stuffed with tributes to this great state and its elegant wine industry, twenty one events to be exact. I wrote a column on the unique history of California wines presented by Coasterra Restaurant on San Diego ’s Harbor Island with the knowledgeable experience of Maurice DiMarino at work.

September took me to San Luis Obispo with its heritage of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with many of the wineries just a few  miles from the brisk fog of the Central Coast , something that Pinot lovers know is the living breathing life- giving nutrition for this quirky grape. I will get into the details of these two events in a later column.

Two standouts for the wine celebration were the Pala Casino Food & Wine Festival and the Palomar College Starlit Gala featuring Lorimar wines. Just goes to again prove that there is a market for wine events in just about any venue.

Pala is a short run from San Diego County and they have recently worked very hard to establish their wine program as a leading one for resorts and casino in the district. Their CAVE underground wine bar and restaurant has caused and increase in interest for wine.  Their first annual Food & Wine Festival drew 50 big names, mostly in California to nearly dovetail with the California wine month theme. They staged it along with a feast of food sampling from their many restaurants, at a time frame of 4 to 8pm on a Sunday, next to their big-time concert Starlight theatre. Wines included: Banfi and Santa Margherita from Italy, Oyster Bay from New Zealand , Daou, Justin and Wild Horse from Paso Robles, Dry Creek, J Vneyards and Ferrari Carano from Sonoma and many Napa Valley brands like Beaulieu, Beringer, Robert Mondavi and Trinitas.  An creative idea I applauded was the spacious tables and comfy chairs placed so that all of the large guests attandees could sit and spread out their food and wine to their comfort.  Bravo! Check out more at PalaCasino.com

Palomar College Starlit Gala chooses Lorimar Wines
Palomar College in my days when I struggled with 2 jobs and a night education, provided me with a 2 year college degree that I took to San Diego State University to acquire a 4 year Journalism and Advertising degree with honors.  So it was with great pleasure that  accepted an invitation to their 25th annual Gala With the added pleasure of wines from Lorimar Vineyards and winery in Temecula.

The full-house guest list included Congressman Darrel Issa from the 49th District that includes Palomar College . His wife Kathy Issa was honored with the Comet Award for her philanthropic
Work with education. Lorimar gifted the school several cases of their 2015 Viognier and the 2012 Cabernet Franc. I was high bidder on several of their Lorimar Medley 2012 Meritage blends.

At Lorimar, they craft wines that are approachable with a fruit forward style that showcases the Temecula Valley . This one is 60% Cabernet, 20% Merlot, along with Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Learn  more at LorimarWinery.com.

Perfect Score: Indelible Inflection for a Modern Winery in Napa Valley
Finally, a book about a modern winery of this century, authored by the individuals that lived it, is published for all to read.  The book, a Perfect Score, The Art, Soul and Business of a 21st-Century Winery, is written in an honest and straight-forward way by Craig and Kathryn Hall.

The Halls open their minds and hearts to the powerful passion for what can be described as true millenial wineries, Hall and Walt, constructed and operated after the year 2000, in Rutherford and St. Helena, Napa Valley . They open the book with a real, pixy-like symbol of the Halls success, “Bunny Foo Foo,” a 35 foot long stainless steel sculpture seemingly jumping over the Hall vineyards in St. Helena . “Bunny Foo Foo really represents our wine experience at the intersection of of art, nature, globalization and technology,” exclaimed Kathryn Hall.  “Our personalities and passions have dictated our decisions and shaped everything, from the design of our wineries to the taste of the wine.”

Proof of that winning taste is evident in the book title A Perfect Score.  That came on October 31, 2013 when, in a personal letter to the Halls, Robert Parker, the wine world’s most renowned wine critic, awarded their 2010 HALL Exzelenz Cabernet Sauvingon a perfect 100 points. How the Halls got to that point in their wine careers, is full of flash points and they aren’t all rainbows.

There was the year in the late 90’s when they didn’t yet have their own winery but had wine made for them by the famed Rombauer winery. Late one night, the Rombauer warehouse burned down and took with it, 2,200 cases of Hall wine leaving the Halls with no wine to sell for 2 years and no insurance on the disaster.  It took a hero’s resolve to get going again.

The style of this book had me wanting more with each of the 22 chapters. Like “Bunny Foo Foo,” it bounces through a number of fascinating topics on the winding road to success. Most chapters have both Kathryn and Craig pausing in their story to be interviewed 20/20 style, commenting on the
poignant moments in their lives that relate to each chapter’s subject.

This book is really a love story on many levels, and it’s an American story of great passions and personalities.  Whether you are thinking about owning a vineyard and winery, or just enjoy an award-winning glass of wine, there I something rich and lively in A Perfect Score to inspire readers to follow their dreams.

Today, the Halls operate 500 acres of estate vineyards. They will be traveling across the country and signing books, and plan to stop at La Gran Terraza on the Campus of the University of San Diego on Tuesday November 15th.  The book is available at Barnes & Noble, Amazon and Books-A-Million. See their website at hallwines.com.

Hall Winery’s latest 2013 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon will be served along with other lovely wines at a Hall and Walt Wine Diiner at SEASALT DEL MAR Seafood Bistro, Thursday September 29th starting at 6pm.  These  wines will be paired with the magnificent five course dinner planned by Seasalt owner Sal Ercolano.  The cost is only $54.95 per person. Call 858-755-7100 to reserve your place and an opportunity to savor Hall and Walt wines.

Carcofi with Full Bodied Reds are Sure to Please
Looking for a patio party pleaser with a distinctly Italian flavor to it? Look no further than Carcofi Ripieni for a desirable headliner, paired with a bevy of monster red wines with an Italian/California pedigree.

Artichokes are a fascinating bowl-like green vegetable with lots of nutritional value.  They are a very delicious treat when each leaf or bract of the Carcofi is stuffed with Italian delights such as grated
aged Pecorino cheese, Italian breadcrumbs with seasonings and sweet basil and crushed garlic, all drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and white wine.

You have to have time and patience to consume artichokes of any kind but especially stuffed Italian style.  The edible portion is the leaf pulp (also called flower buds) before the flowers come into bloom.  The base or heart of the plant is also edible and is the most delicious of this eat-by-hand meal.

Artichokes are healthy choices.  They contain the highest antioxidant ingredient reported for a vegetable and were first cultivated for eating by the Sicilians and popularized as a delicacy by the Greeks, Spanish, Italians and French.  In America , California produces 42,000 tons, with nearly 100% of the U.S. crop in the City of Castroville, proclaiming itself the “Artichoke Center of the World.”  But this is still far behind Italy with over 500 thousand tons produced.

Briefly, stuffed Carciofi is made after cutting off the top thorns of the leaves, and trimming the stem at the bottom.  Open the leaves and stuff with mixed breadcrumbs, grated cheese, ground garlic and sweet basil. Drizzle over the top of the leaves with olive oil and white wine. Place the artichokes in a baking dish with a small amount of water in the dish.  Cover the artichokes with foil and bake at 350 degrees for about 1 ½ hours.  The stuffed leaves should pull out easily when they are done. To eat, grab each leaf by the top and scrape out the pulp with the delicious stuffing, with your teeth.

Noted New York chef brings original dining to Carmel Valley
Chef Pascual Lorange is a culinary household name in New York City and some of the multi-starred dining houses of Europe. He was once the private chef for international singer Julio Iglesias.  Well, New York now has that sinking feeling and San Diego suddenly is looked up to as very attractive for must-dine restaurants, including Lorange’s new CRUDO.

I had the pleasure of interviewing this charming man who has raised the cooking bar for other restaurants in the city. He’s brought with him a creative bond for the menu which is somewhere between Mediterranean and Japanese-inspired infusions. He is convinced it’s the perfect fit for the SoCal coastal lifestyle and so do I. “I wanted to bring something new to San Diego but at the some tine, it had to be a sophisticated dining experience, yet affordable,” he enthused.  “CRUDO is a method of cooking fish and other seafood, although we have many selections on the menu like steak, chicken and lamb.”

Before I get into the inflection point of this amazing menu, I was joined by Jason Mosley, the General Manager and Wine Director, who opened four distinctly different wines, two whites and two reds, all of which can be ordered by the glass or bottle, and which pair perfectly with menu specialties that were  shaped for these wines.  “The whites cozy up to the many seafood delicacies and have great elegance to match the food,” he asserted.  “Chateau Ducasse is a Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc from 2012, fleshy with earth tones and minerality, and the Trefethen Napa Valley Chardonnay 2014 is natural with no butter or malolactic  to alter the original flavor.”  Over on the red side, Mosley presented a Louis Jadot Pinot Noir 2013 from Burgundy and a Terrior Cabernet 2014 from Napa Valley , a blend of some magnitude.  Mosely observed that “although all were young, it is now what the public wants, rather than wait for a presumed aging advantage.”

Every corner of CRUDO has a light, appealing color and design element to match the menu.  “It’s who I am as a chef,” declared Lorange. At CRUDO you must try the Papillote specialties. They are what are uniquely delicious about this inflection point restaurant.  The food is steamed into parchment paper, then slowly baked to perfection.  They include choices like:  Chicken, Lamb, Crudo Lobster and my personal favorite, the Chilean Sea Bass with marble potato confit, asparagus, leek, heirloom carrot, herbs tapenade and green olives.  Unforgettable. Visit at crudopl.com, or call for a reservation at 1-858-847-2797.

Avensole is the newest winery in Temecula
Avensole Winery, a beautiful 20 acre vineyard, winery and restaurant that sits on a petite lake off Rancho California road, is the 40th winery in Temcula.  Varietals include:  Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat Canelli, old and new vine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer. Bought by the Lytton Family in 2014, Avensole combined means one-of-a-kind adventure in Italian.  Grapes have been grown on this property for over 4 decades.  You might remember two of my nicest friends, Buddy and Cheri Linn, who operated the winery when it was La Cereza, a premium Spanish winery.  I’m certain they are pleased with the results of Avensole.  The winery has free live music on Fridays and Saturdays from 5 to 8pm.  See avensolewinery.com. or call 1-951-252-2003 x312.

Now on to the wines, a selection of six, with each guest encouraged to “taste them all and note the changes in taste with the Carciofi.” The wines chosen for this party were:

·        Gerard Bertrand Cote des Rose,’ France .  2015.  $12.
·        Cantina Zaccagnini Montepuciano , Italy . 2013  $12.
·        The Prisoner blend, Napa Valley , Ca.  2014. $35.
·        Ferrari Carano UNA blend, Sonoma Ca.  2014. $39.
·        Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Ca. $75.

These wines range from light and airy with the Rose’ for those that love a wine that was simpatico with the artichoke flavor, to heavy bodied and tannic with the Cabernet for the guests that wanted a pairing with the strong garlic and cheesy element in the stuffing. One Carciofi is easily enough for a meal.  I suggest that all the food you need is in that one fat, plump artichoke.  More details on the recipe can be found at food.com.

September is California Wine Month.
Any day of the week, any month of the year is the time to celebrate the greatness of California wines.  But the table is set and the glass is full for California to shine in September so let’s toast the world’s most coveted wine country producing 120 grape varietals, more than  any country in the world.  Napa Valley, Sonoma, Paso Robles, Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, Temecula and yes, San Diego County, all produce more than 90% of all the wine in the U.S.  Some 3,500 wine producers dot the state.

Spanish missionaries began planting in the 1700’s.  The first commercial wineries started in Los Angeles in the 1830’s, then later in the century in Napa Valley and Sonoma .


Ponsaty’s – a Return to Elegance
Fifth generation Master French Chef Patrick Ponsaty has applied his masters touch to a new, elegant restaurant in Rancho Santa Fe, Ponsaty’s. It replaces Delicias at a key corner in the village. He was corporate chef at the Grand Restaurant Group which has partnered in the new operation.  As you enter

Ponsaty’s, the elegance is evident in the soft browns, greys and gold- toned massive Murano glass chandelier in the main dining room. Chef Patrick has created a menu that “features my family’s recipes and my visions from top to bottom,” he said.  He grew up in the south of France and started his career in cooking at age 15.  Next was Monaco, Spain, New York, and finally San Diego where he was chef  at the Rancho Bernardo Inn and his own Bernardo Restaurant. Recommended entrees include:  the Lightly Seared Cortez Corvina with Lobster-Saffron Risotto and the Lacquered Scottish Salmon with long-stem artichokes.  The winning wine was the 2009 Bonnacorsi Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara .  RSVP at 858-771-1871.

Enter Pala’s CAVE for Wine, Food & Luciano

by Frank Mangio
One of the most attractive caves I’ve had the opportunity to visit is the new underground CAVE at Pala Casino, Spa and Resort , east of Interstate 15 on Highway 76, in North San Diego County .
You can enjoy dinner on the casino level, then descend into 2,400 square feet of cellar space which is an underground wine cave, plush with oversize leather tables and chairs, a stage for music and a bar that has access to 480 of the greatest wines in the world.

                     Executive Chef Luciano Cibelli welcomes all to Pala Casino’s new

underground wine CAVE for lounge dining, fine wine and entertainment.

 
The cuisine in the dining room is distinctly Mediterranean with an Italian flair, prepared by international chef Luciano Cibelli. This man has a personality that, once you meet him, you will
not forget his style, talent in the kitchen and his focused pairings of wine and food.  “I speak five languages and know the best cuisine of each country,” Luciano revealed.  “I have been at Pala for 14 years now. We opened Mama’s Restaurant in 2002 just before the hotel opened with 507 rooms.  Now we have the best Mediterranean food with CAVE and a small and large bites menu.” I asked him for his favorite on the menu and he had a quick answer. “Very hard to say.  That’s like asking a Mamma which is her favorite son!”

It wasn’t hard for me to choose some delicious entrees, starting with a lovely presentation  of Burrata, a soft cheese specialty surrounded by slow-roasted Italian tomato with herbs. For my pasta, I chose a Tomato Risotto.

A perfectly prepared Burrata is the appetizer of choice at CAVE
in the Pala Casino in north San Diego County.

The Risotto choices change daily and affords the Risotto lover a collection of flavors which give new meaning to “come back for more.”  The large bite entrée was one for the books.  Chef Luciano presented a double cut Colorado lamb chop with plenty of rosemary and garlic, in a Cabernet wine sauce.  Truly a gift from culinary heaven.

I chose two red wines to wash this dinner combination down:  the 2011 Trione Pinot Noir from Sonoma and a 2008 Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino from Tuscany Italy that enhanced the flavor of the lamb as a perfect pairing should.  The new CAVE has entertainment every Friday and Saturday night.  The larger venue outdoor Starlight Theater presents marquee stars.  Huey Lewis and the News are playing Thursday July 30th at 8pm, with tickets still available.  Call the Pala box office at 1- 877-946-7252, or go to startickets.com.

Wine Spectator Releases Honor Roll of Top Wine Restaurants
Wine Spectator, with the largest subscription of any wine magazine, has named  restaurants with the highest quality wine lists in three rated categories, including a Grand Award for the Addison in the Fairmont Grand Del Mar.  Other San Diego high-award winners include:  Amaya at the Fairmont Grand Del Mar; Marina Kitchen; Mille Fleurs; Mister A’s; Veladora at Rancho Valencia and Winesellar & Brasserie.

Wine Bytes

Solare Ristorante at Liberty Station San Diego presents a Fortaleza Tequila Tasting Dinner, Sat. July 25th from 6:30 to 9:30pm. This is a four course dinner by Chef Acursio. $54. for the dinner and $19. for the Fortaleza .  Call 619-270-9670 for an RSVP.

PAON Restaurant and Wine Bar has a Wines of Piemonte Italy event featuring Genevieve Edwards, Italian wine specialist, Wed. July 29th from 6 to 8pm.  Cost is $20.  Call for details at 760-729-7377.

Vittorio’s in Carmel Valley has an all-Spain wine dinner Thurs. July 30th at 6pm.  4 different wineries will be highlighted.  $49.50 pp.  Call for an RSVP at 858-538-5884.

A Cakebread Napa Valley wine dinner is planned for CUSP Dining and Drinks in La Jolla , atop the La Jolla Hotel, Sun. July 26th at 7pm.  Cost is $50. pp.  and includes a 4 course dinner and 4 Cakebread wines.  RSVP at 858-551-3620.