Mixing it up with Wine Blending

by Frank Mangio
In my many years of interviewing winemakers on their favorite winemaking experience, it’s almost always blending. Blending is the art of winemaking, an exclusive work for the world of wine to judge. Several finished wine varietals are brought together with the final creation more than the sum of the parts.  Three of the more sought-after blending styles are Bordeaux France (all their wines are blends, with Cabernet Sauvignon the lead grape); Rhone Valley France with mostly Syrah; and Super Tuscan where blends are mostly built around Tuscany ’s Sangiovese grape.

I have talked to many wine sommeliers and thumbed through the national wine sales reports, and blends are one of the fastest growing wine categories in the U.S.

The historic, traditional guide for blenders is the Bordeaux model.  This famous district in France long ago developed production methods that wove Cabernet, Merlot and Cab Franc grapes from the finest vineyard sites, with aging in small oak barrels.  Wineries were classified by the government as premier “first growth” or “grand cru” wines.  What evolved was a model for the world’s wineries that ventured into blended brands.  Other Bordeaux style grapes included:  Malbec, Petite Verdot and Carmenere.

Fast forward to the Napa Valley in the late 70’s when rising wine star Robert Mondavi  caught the attention of French Grand Cru baron Phillippe de Rothschild.  The two wine heavyweights combined their genius to create Opus One, the first big-brand blend in Napa Valley , with Cabernet from the legendary Oakville To Kalon Vineyard.

To this day, Opus One is viewed as a masterpiece in fine wine blending. Others followed with their own creations, applying their own brush strokes to their own canvas.

In Napa Valley in the year 2000, the harvest was difficult  for Dave Phinney, so he took small amounts of Zinfandel, Cabernet, Syrah and old vine Charbono and created a big, bold blend the he called The Prisoner.  That year he made 385 cases.  In 2008, he sold the brand, producing some 85,000 cases.  That was considered to be the beginning of the red blend trend.  In the south, Justin Baldwin of Paso Robles fell in love with Bordeaux blends, so much so that he vowed he could do just as well, maybe better, with the unique soil content and coastal breezes of west “Paso.”

Founded in 1981, the turning point for Justin Winery was 2000 when the 1997 ISOSCELES was named one of the top ten wines in the world by Wine Spectator.  Most recently, the 2011 ISOSCELES ( $72.) was awarded double gold as the Best Bordeaux Blend at the San Francisco International Wine Competition.  The newest release, 2012, consists of:  77% Cabernet, 12% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc.

The “Super Tuscans” of Italy are generally a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot and occasionally Syrah. A leader is Piero Antinori and his Tignanello ($89.95).  He adds 15% Cabernet to Sangiovese for power and density.

Wine  Bytes
West Steak and Seafood in Carlsbad presents a Silver Oak and Twomey Wine dinner Thurs. May 7th at 6:30pm.  These great Napa Valley wines will be paired with some of Executive Chef Arbella’s best menu achievements in a 5 course dinner in the West Room.  $150. ea.  RSVP at 760-930-9100.

Hangin’ Out in the Wine Countries of Santa Barbara & San Luis Obispo

by Frank Mangio
California is truly a remarkable state for many reasons, but none more significant than its wines that make up about 80% of the country’s sales worldwide.

My home base in the San Diego area, has its own wine country that is beginning to awaken and realize what it can do, given the desert-like land and weather conditions, and many of the 80 some vineyards turn to Mediterranean style grapes.  But the great majority of travelers to wine countries in California instead prefer to spend their days along the Central and North coasts, from Paso Robles up into Napa Valley and Sonoma. I am one of those that when I set out to see and experience the great vineyards, I choose the historic wineries from Paso north.  It’s time now to consider that 100 miles of wine country between Santa Barbara and San Luis Obisbo, affectionately called “SLO LIFE.”

Fess Parker Winery in Los Olivos is one of the wineries on a must-see and taste list of premium properties in Santa Barbara County making many Rhone varietals including Syrah.

 SLO is a cute little nickname for San Luis  Obispo.  This is another California town where wine making began in the mission era in 1772.  Zinfandel was the first varietal to show up in the Arroyo Grande district.  The area began to get a reputation just south of town in the Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande areas in the late 1960’s when Chardonnay and Pinot Noir started earning a lot of attention.

A little further south on Highway 101, the main highway for these wine countries, you’ll find Santa Rita Hills and the Santa Ynez Valley, where it’s cooler and more coastal.  Towns include:  Santa Maria, Los Olivos, Buellton, Solvang and Santa Barbara.  This was the area made famous by the quirky hit movie, Sideways.

Fess Parker, the movie legend of Davey Crockett westerns, built one of the biggest and best wineries in the Los Olivas district.  The Fess Parker Winery makes high-end Syrah, Viognier, Pinot Noir and other varietals spanning 300 acres.  The accompanying country inn and spa is a fashionable place to stay on a multi day tour.  Another smart stop to make is Laetitia, making premium wines, especially Pinot Noir, just off the 101 in Arroyo Grande.

So think twice about your next road trip north to “wine country.”  You may want to hang out in “SLO Country.”  See www.slowine.com, and www.sbcountywines.com.

Love and Passion’s on the Menu at SOLARE

In Point Loma’s Liberty Station Shopping Center, SOLARE, an Italian Restaurant committed to the Italian lifestyle with a total dining experience. Randy Smerik applies his love of all things Italy with a menu of stunning goodness, embraced by Italian and other worldy wines.

 The SOLARE team includes:  Chef Accursio Lota, Owner Randy Smerik and Pizza Chef Brian Smerik.

“We have about 2,000 wines in our cellar, with over 40 by the glass,” he declared.  “We believe in discoveries, with most coming from Italy. The rest come from coastal California.”

He opened a bottle I had not known, a Super Tuscan from the 2007 vintage, called Tenuta di Castel Giocondo “Lamaione”( $79.), from an area most known for Sangiovese.  “This one is 100% Merlot and one that is as good as any in Bordeaux,” Smerik revealed. I was amazed!

 The Chef, Accursio Lota’ from Sicily, uses menu dishes from his mother and grandmother, made with locally caught fish, farm-raised meats and fruit and vegetables from his own gardens. He has cooked in Milan Italy and catered for Oprah Winfield at Montecito, Santa Barbara.  He has also more recently cooked with executive chefs at the Marine Room in La Jolla.

My recommendations:  traditional lasagna, pork chop and pillow pasta with Sicilian sausage.  The daily( closed Monday) Happy Hour is an unforgettable deal with 7 menu items for $5.00 each.  Select wines are $5.00 per glass.  Call for more information at 619-270-9670.  Web site is www.solarelounge.com.

Wine Bytes
The 3rd annual Temecula Taste in front of City Hall in old town Temecula is Sat. Apr. 27 from 11 to 7pm.  With the best of nearby restaurants, wineries and micro breweries, the cost is $10. admission and $2. taste tickets. Live entertainment.  Information at 951-551-5352.

Wines from Australia are featured at Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego, Fri. May 3 from 4 to 8:30pm.  Cost is $20. for Cabs, Shiraz, Riesling and more.  Info at 619-236-0005.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas presents its 1st annual Oyster Festival Sat. May 4th from 1 to 3pm.  All you can eat, with a big list of wines included.  $50. pp.  RSVP a must at 760-479-2500.

The Junior League of San Diego holds its Food & Wine Festival, Sat. May 4 from 2 to 6pm, at Scripps Park in La Jolla, overlooking La Jolla Cove.  Cost is $75. general admission, $125. VIP.  Also beer and spirits with 50 restaurant samplers.  Call 858-869-5771 for ticket info.