Wine Spectator Names World’s Best Values

by Frank Mangio
If you want to know what question I get asked most, it’s this:  what is the best wine for a cheap “value” price?  There is no more difficult question to answer than this one.  Wine is a matter of personal taste. It’s not unusual to stage a “blind” tasting among wines of all price ranges and have the value wines win out over the premium expensive wines; so many variables to deal with. Eight California wines were named among Wine Spectator’s World Value Wines in the current issue.

The Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Sonoma makes Votre Sante’ Pinot Noir.  Their 2011 vintage was named one of the world’s best value wines

In  the wine industry’s most read publication, these wines had to cost $15. or less and score 85 points or higher; great taste at a great price. The select eight included red wines:  Ravenswood Zinfandel  Old Vine 2011 $9., Francis Ford Coppola Pinot Noir Votra Sante’ 2011 $14., Gnekow Zinfandel Old Vine, $10.  White wines:  Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc 2012 $12., Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc 2011 $8., Ensemble White 2011 $10., Guenoc Sauvignon Blanc 2011 $14., Pepi Chenin Blanc-Viognier 2011 $10.

“The United States leads the way with 20 value wines in 4 states from the 100 wines named,” reported Wine Spectator.  “Three Old World regions, France, Italy and Portugal, all did well.”

Spectator also added this: “California released hearty reds made from Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, and zesty whites made from Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, that were the leading grapes for value.”  Get the complete list in the October 15th issue of Wine Spectator.

By the way, Votre Sante’ was named for movie director Coppola’s grandmother, Maria Zasa, an Italian who spoke four languages.  She was always seen offering a wine toast: “A Votra Sante” – to your health.”  Coppola has completed his “Wine Wonderland” with the opening of Winery Park in Sonoma County, an eye-opening complex with two swimming pools, changing “cabines,” a performance pavilion, four bocce courts and a children’s library.  You don’t want to miss his RUSTIC Restaurant of family Italian recipes, with terraces, two wine bars and a movie museum.  Visit www.FrancisCoppolaWinery.com.

Napa Valley ’s Most Distinguished Wines Choose Il Fornaio
The Napa Valley names that show up on premium wine lists time and time again are Robert Mondavi and Franciscan, and the select wine events at Il Fornaio Restaurant in Coronado recently featured Robert Mondavi and will be offering a Franciscan event Thursday, September 26 with a reception at 6pm and a wine dinner at 6:30pm.

The Mondavi dinner was a special occasion as G.M. Luca Allieri wanted to spotlight what would have been Robert Mondavi’s 100th birthday this year.  It was an amazing journey since the winery’s opening in 1966. After only one year, he created his most popular wine, Fume’ Blanc, and the next year made his first Cabernet Sauvignon.

Taste Of Wine columnist Frank Mangio with Chef Giorgio Loverde of Il Fornaio in Coronado.

In 1970, he and his wine partner, the great French winemaker Baron Philippe de Rothschild, partnered to make the most famous premium wine in Napa Valley, Opus One in the historic 450 acre To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville.  This is where grapes become wine royalty.  When Mondavi first acquired To Kalon he declared “it is the most beautiful vineyard site I have seen in my life.”

Il Fornaio’s Chef Georgio Loverde had 5 courses paired with the 5 world renowned Mondavi wines led by the Mondavi 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  ($44.99)  For the Franciscan event on September 26, Loverde plans a choice of an Ahi tuna or sliced veal as only he can do both, matched with a choice of Franciscan wines. Cost is $65. per person.   Call 619-437-4911.

Wine Bytes
La Costa Wine Company in Carlsbad has an Orin Swift Tasting, Fri. Sept. 27 from 5 to 8:30pm.  5 varietals will be poured including Prisoner.  $25. ea.  Call 760-431-8455.

The Encinitas Chamber of Commerce presents the Napa Valley Vintners Grand Wine Tasting hosted by Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas, at Meritage Wine Market Sat. Oct. 12 from 5 to 8pm.  This annual event brings in 10 highly acclaimed wineries, along with gourmet foods.  $50. pp.  RSVP and details at 760-479-2500.

Join  Bistro West, West Steak & Seafood and West Inn & Suites in Carlsbad for OktoberWest, Sat. Oct. 12 from 11am to 3pm.  German favorites and other delicious food plus premium beers and wines. Cost is $35. advance and $40. at the door.  Call 760-930-8008.

The Wine Trail of Don Quixote

by Frank Mangio
Don Quixote is a character in a 17th century novel, a thin country gentleman who studies medieval stories full of knights, cavalry, jousting and castles.  He believes he has been called upon to change the world and goes out to do battle in the name of his lady love who stands for perfection and purity…a very selective vision of the real world.  Welcome to the wine country of Don Quixote’s Spain…La Mancha.

Castilla-La Mancha is a beautiful wine region located in the center of Spain, the largest vineyard in the world with over 1,240,000 acres under vine.  There are 46 grape varieties grown in this massive area, up to now little known in the outside world.  Some are well-known like Cabernet Sauvignon.  Others like Tinto Velasco wait for their time.

Juan Jose Cerdan Gerente offers a taste of his Vina Cerron at the recent Don Quixote Grape Trail Wine Expo Tour in San Diego.

Beside the rich lime and chalkstone soil, there are many more hours of daylight, some 3,500 hours a year, providing a “luminocity” for longer hours of grape ripening without overheating.  This leads to flavor balance without a strong alcohol presence.  These are wines of high minerality and earthiness with a bright acidity.

Two stand-outs, of the 26 wines offered at the showing, were the Vina Cerron “Remordimiento,” a red blend with Tempranillo, Cabernet, Petit Verdot and Shiraz with tasty and smoky flavors; and AurumRed, a 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon that has been awarded 97 points by France’s most prestigious wine guide.

Spanish winemakers continue to respect the wisdom of traditional ways of making wine and they benefit from the flavors that result, especially in Castilla-La Mancha, a wine country 100 times larger than Napa Valley.  See more at www.tierradevinedos.org.


Brian Malarky is a Chef on Fire
Super TopChef Brian Malarky, who, faster than a speeding bullet, has recently opened Herringbone in La Jolla, his 5th restaurant with managing partner James Brennan.

It joins Searsucker, Burlap, Gingham and Gabardine in San Diego County in a hip, casual, marketplace-bazaar format, each with their own culinary experience.  All have opened in the past two years. The everyday food operation is under the supervision of chef de cuisine Amanda Bumgarten, a finalist on Bravo TV’s Top Chef Season 7.  Malarky playfully calls the format “Fish Meats Field.”
I asked him about his restaurants in a Q&A recently.

Taste Of Wine:  What’s the idea behind naming your restaurants after fabrics?
Malarky:  Searsucker was named for my love of wearing a seersucker suit to the racetracks. My restaurants designer and I decided to have fun with it and continue naming them after a fabric.
Taste Of Wine:  I love hats and wear them a lot as you do.  What’s your favorite hat?
Malarky:  I’m an old-school Goorn Bros. straw fedora guy.  The more worn and miles it has, the better.

Brian Malarky with his new American Classic Cuisine and one of a kind wines has added a 5th restaurant, Herringbone, in La Jolla.

Taste Of Wine:  When you’re away from your restaurants, what meal with wine would you make for yourself?

Marlarky:  Rotisserie Chicken and a side of artichokes, paired with Brie and a baguette, with a nice bottle of Sauvignon Blanc.

After several positions in restaurants around the country, Malarky opened downtown San Diego’s Oceanaire as Executive Chef in 2004.  He then starred in Bravo TV’s Top Chef 3 Miami where he advanced to the finals, gaining national fame for his culinary talents and high energy. When I sat down to sample Herringbone, it was with an Alaskan Halibut with farro, oyster mushroom and topped with hazelnut, after a fascinating spinach salad with feta and bacon balsamic.

The star of the wine menu was a Napa Valley Spring Mountain ’08 Syrah called Schoolhouse. All five of the Malarky Restaurants now offer half-off bottles of wine and no corkage fee on Tuesday nights.  Check out Herringbone at www.herringboneeats.com.

Wine Bytes
Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego has their Anniversary Wine Tasting Party Sat. Aug. 25 from 5 to 9pm.  They promise a fabulous lineup of wines, food and live music including a 6-liter bottle of Imperial Bordeaux for a $25. fee. Call 619-236-0005.

Europa Village Winery in Temecula is hosting a Fiesta De Noche Musical Wine Dinner, Sat. Aug. 25 from 6:30 to 9pm.  Cost is $85. pp.  RSVP at 951-216-3380.

Bistro West Carlsbad presents an Orin Swift Wine Dinner Tues. Aug. 28 at 6:30pm.  Wine pours include Mannequin, Saldo, The Prisoner and Papillion.  $75. ea.  RSVP at 760-930-8008.

La Costa Wine Company is pouring a Robert Craig Winery Pre Release of Napa Valley Cabs and a Chardonnay, Wed. Aug. 29 from 6 to 8pm.  RSVP only at 760-431-8646.

Belle Marie Wine and Culinary Campus has its Grand Opening Sat. Sept. 1 to Mon. Sept 3 from Noon to 3pm ea. day. Free admission and entertainment, with food available. You can now taste different wines from at least 8 wineries in one place. Details at 760-796-7557.