Harvest 2013 in California

by Frank Mangio
From Temecula to Napa Valley and beyond, this is the season of the year that can make or break a vineyard in California’s considerable wine industry.  The state has some 10% of the number of vineyards in the U.S.They produce a whopping 90% of  U.S. wine sales in the country.

California has struggled with unusually dry weather of late and the harvest bottomed out in 2011 with excess fruit that lacked its usual quality.  But last year showed a beautiful harvest up and down the state, in lock step with increased sales of California wines from the 2010 red wine harvest and 2011 and 12 white wine harvest.

 

The 2013 California wine crop has excellent quality as growers cut back some on production in favor of quality.  Shown here is the Jordan Vineyard in Sonoma.

The most important wine country is Napa Valley, home to arguably the world’s best Chardonnay and Cabernet.  It describes its crop with the “three E’s, early, even and excellent. “  I would pop a C into the mix….consistency.  While our European friends are always bracing for terrible, damaging weather, California, even in a less than great year, will still produce lovely wines more or less.

Napa Valley started harvest on August 1 with the whites, one of the earliest on record. By early September the lighter reds were picked, and finally the cabernet grapes came off the vines by mid-October. “In a nutshell, this vintage gave us the extraordinary gift of enabling us to pick exactly what we wanted, at perfect ripeness and ideal hang time,” noted Paul Colantuoni, winemaker at Rocca Family Vineyards.  So the word is that the 2013 vintage will be every bit as blessed as the 2012.

Over in Sonoma, Pedroncelli Winery up near Geyserville, finished their 86th harvest, a “bumper crop” with all the makings of fine quality from a near-perfect growing season.  They finished with their Petite Sirah and Port varietals.  Pedroncelli just released its first red from the fabulous 2012 vintage, a Pinot Noir.  Look forward to rich flavors and bright acidity with a lighter touch.

In Monterey wine country, they’re calling 2013 a historical best.  The harvest was prolonged by more than average fog which made for more acidity and structure.  The Pinot Noir grape had extra hang time for brilliant looking fruit with even ripening.

Paso Robles is also tagging 2013 as a “near perfect growing season with additional hang time that produced amazing color and some very promising wines.”  Cass Winery opened up about a side issue that’s been rearing its head in the press.  “Growers know well that we are in the midst of a grape shortage due to the lack of new plantings during the recession.  That shortage appears to be spilling over to wine sales.”

I just read two articles on this very subject.  One declared a wine shortage, the other proclaimed that there was no wine shortage.  I guess if you went to your favorite wine shop and they didn’t have your favorite brand, then there is a wine shortage.

Taking it Easy at Trinitas Cellars Wine Bar

Feels like Napa Valley when you spend some relaxed time at the new Trinitas Cellars Wine Bar in the 9 acre Estancia La Jolla Hotel and Spa.  It should.  The casual dining, wine and perfect setting are made to resemble its sister Meritage Collection property in Napa Valley. Executive Chef Kim Kramer and Danny Fancher, Director of Food & Beverage, have teamed up to present paired wine and food combinations that are very comfortable together.

Trinitas Cellars Wine Bar Chef Kim Kramer chooses dishes that enhance the flavor of the wines.
 
The portions are mostly petite.  Kramer likes to call it “playful home cooking.” One of her favorite menu items that is catching on is the Mac N’ Cheese N’ Fried Chicken that matches up with the Trinitas 2010 Old Vine Petite Sirah that touches the palate with cinnamon and dark plums.
She recommends sharing plates.  All menu items are available at the bar. My favorite was the Beef Short Rib with truffle chips with a 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel.  Estancia has its famed Thanksgiving Day Buffet, Thurs. Nov. 28 from 2 to 8pm.  It’s one to dream about.  RSVP at 858-964-6521.

Wine Bytes
It’s “Feel Good Friday” at Orfila Winery in Escondido Fri. Nov. 15 from 3 to 5pm, with Jimmy Patton and his guitar. Entertainment is no charge. Wine & food are available.  Call 760-738-6500 x22.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos has a Goldschmidt  wine event Sat. Nov. 16 from  5 to 10pm. Cost is $15. pp.  On Wed. the 20th from 5 to 9pm, Carole Shelton Wines of Sonoma will be poured at $10. pp.  Call 760-744-2119. for details.

An Italian Food and Wine Master Class will be held, as part of the San Diego Bay Wine and Food Festival, Fri. Nov. 22 from 11:30 to 1:30pm, at Macy’s School of Cooking at Fashion Valley in San Diego.  Learn cooking techniques, taste, and get recipes.  Cost is $70. ea.  Visit the website www.sandiegowineclassic.com. for an RSVP.

Big Format Bottles Stand Tall at COSTCO

by Frank Mangio
In a move that has eyes turning and cameras clicking at the entrance to the wine department at COSTCO in Carlsbad, some 60 big format wine bottles are up for sale.  Sizes range from 3 liters to a whopping 27 liters, made by Fontodi of Tuscany Italy.  Inside is their Super Tuscan Flaccianello.

A new release 2010 standard sized 750 ml. bottle of Flaccianello holds 5 five ounce glasses of wine and cost $120.00.  The most expensive Flaccianello is a 27 ltr. 2004 vintage that holds 160 five ounce glasses.  The COSTCO price is $7,599.99.

A more popular value Tuscan wine name to know is Banfi.  It is well represented with its Centine (pronounced Chen-tee-nay) brand.  The big bottle in this one is 5 liters and cost $58.99.  Its vintage is 2011 and is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot.  This bottle yields 35 glasses, about $1.68 per glass.

 Big format wine bottles are attracting crowds at COSTCO.

 Simple economics tells me that when comparing a standard release with its big bottle counterpart, there is much more wine per dollar in the five liter, about twice as much.  Not to say, we should all go running around looking for big format bottles.  There are some drawbacks.  These giants are hard to open, short of a jackhammer. All the standard lever pull corkscrews are built for the standard size 750 ml bottles.

Another problem is that all wine should be consumed when open, or up to two days after unsealing. When exposed to air, a turning process begins and the wine begins to get tart and sour.  Unless you have some big-time parties lined up, it’s best to stay with the standard bottles.  Oh yeah, these bottles can get heavy. When pouring, I can barely balance a 5 liter with its 35 glass content.  I can’t imagine what it would be like to be pouring a 27 liter with 160 glasses of wine.

On the plus side, they make great party-pleasers.  The WOW-factor is over the top, and they make very attractive Grand Prizes at wine tasting competitions. Other choices include:  Chateau Malescot St. Exupery Red Bordeaux  3 liter for $489.99 and the Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Cabernet 3 liter for $94.99.

Thirty Generation Italian Winery Appears at Solare in San Diego

Most chefs would freeze in their boots and quickly forget everything they were ever taught about fine dining, if they ever had to pair up their menu creations with the best wines from Frescobaldi, a Florentine family whose wine fame began in the year 1300.  By the time the  Renaissance happenend two centuries later, the artisitic greats, the Papal Court and the English Court of Henry the Eighth were all faithful clients of Frescobaldi.  I am happy to report that Solare’s Executive Chef Accursio Lota was up to the task with his menu selections that were an inspirational compliment for the wines.

Galen Crippin, the Export Manager for Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi presented the history of the fabled Tuscan winery, at Solare in San Diego.

 Here are the extraordinary food and wine pairings, served that evening at Solare:

Albacore Tuna marinated with tangerine, bottarga emulsion and black squid ink, served with Frescobaldi Vermentino Ammiraglia.

Ravioli with slow braised beef short rib, with butternut squash and bone marrow, served with Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni.

Slow roasted Flat Iron steak with braised escarole, pine-smoked whipped potatoes and cocoa nibs, served with Frescobaldi Lamaione.

Cantuccio and Tommy’s orange panna cotta, served with Frescobaldi Pomino Vinsanto.

Solare has a glass enclosed Wine Room for a private atmosphere, surrounded by special selection wines for up to four guests.  Reservations are recommended. They also have hands-on cooking classes where you may learn about some of these dishes mentioned.  Call 619-270-9670 or visit solarelounge.com.

Wine Bytes
The Annual Festival of Forks and Corks is being held at Café Merlot and Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo, Thu. Oct. 24 from 4 to 8pm to benefit the San Diego Children’s Museum.  Over 50 vendors will include wines, beers, micro farms, food, art and craft.  Tickets are $25. or $40. per couple. Drink/food tickets $1. Info at 760-703-5510.

Whiskey & Wine BBQ happens at Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa Thu. Oct. 24, from 6 to 9pm.  Food, wine and a sample of exclusive Single Barrel Whiskey.  Tickets start at $50.  For details call 858-964-6525.

The first annual La Costa Film Festival at the Omni La Costa Resort & Spa is Thu. Oct. 24 to Sun. Oct. 27, showing the best examples of documentaries, features and shorts. The opening night gala starting at 5:30pm, will include A Taste of North County, with local cuisine, wine and breweries plus live entertainment.  This event to benefit the Boys and Girls Clubs of Carlsbad.  For more information and pricing, go to lacostafilmfestival.org.