Pork & Pinot - Perfect Night at 20/Twenty

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by Frank Mangio
Twenty/20 in the Carlsbad Sheraton Hotel has an Executive Chef who may be the best at sensing a culinary trend and moving in front with its presentation.  Proof of that was the recent Pork and Pinot soiree when every entrée was pork-based, paired with a Pinot  Noir from the vast Jackson Family Wines Collection from the Central and North Coast of California.

Robert Carr is a big man in the kitchen, and at Twenty/20, he proves it daily. He loves what he does.  I have seen him adapt and evolve, creating distinguished menus since this restaurant opened. His entrees are like his children as he lovingly described his pork dishes, from Prosciutto to Braised Port Cheek.  All were worthy dishes to pair with Pinot  Noirs brought in by Director of Wine Communication & Education Steve Heimoff from Jackson Family Wines of Sonoma.  Everyone knows Kendall Jackson and their varietals, but this night Heimoff brought in lesser known but higher quality Pinots that blew away all the guest diners.

If there is just one wine varietal you need for your Thanksgiving dinner, it’s Pinot Noir.  The Pinot lineup at Twenty/20  included:  Carmel Road 2012 Monterey ($16.), La Crema Willamette Valley 2012 ($40.), Cambria Estate 2012 ($19.), Champ de Reves Anderson Valley 2012 ($36.) and Hartford Court Russian River Valley 2012 ($42.).

Jackson Family owns 47 wineries worldwide.   Jess Jackson the owner, before he recently died, declared “I want to make the best wines I can, at every price point and be dedicated to sustainability.”  5,000 acres of Jackson wine has been officially declared sustainable, grown with natural products, using solar power.

What began as a top chef challenge some five years ago, pork is now seen as the hottest dining trend in the restaurant world and Chef Robert at Twenty/20 explores and discovers new, delicious ways to make this dish happen.

Other reasons to lock into this feel-good restaurant this month are the Saturday night live music and dinner feature, with panoramic views of the sunset and coast from a pavilion, with contemporary fire features to excite the senses.  A Friday lunch changes weekly, with a Spanish Tapa flair to it.
Twenty/20 has a Thanksgiving Buffet extravaganza including stuffed pork loin, for $50. each.  Kids $25.  Service will be from 3pm to 8pm, with a limited dinner menu until 10pm.  Call for reservations at 760-827-2500.

Pinot Noir is the most embracing wine I know,  in the sense that it pairs with nearly all entrees, and that’s what makes it right for Thanksgiving dinners. It’s like putting a dozen beautiful roses on the table. Other pinots to consider include: Edna Valley Reserve 2012 ($45.), Golden Eye Anderson Valley 2010 ( $45.), Frei Bros. Reserve, Russian River ($16.).

Oregon Pinot Noirs like Domaine Serene 2010 ($80.) are more Burgundian French style with a stronger taste, while the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey would be a more floral style like the Talbott Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2012 ($22.).

Thanksgiving Wine Bytes
Chandler’s Restaurant & Lounge in Carlsbad has a Thanksgiving feast Thurs. Nov. 27 from 11am to 7:30pm. Traditional turkey with all the trimmings.  $55. pp. Add $20. with wine pairings.  RSVP at 760-683-5500.

Marina Kitchen in San Diego Celebrates Thanksgiving with a home-style menu Thurs. Nov. 27 with a buffet style feast from 1:30 til 7pm.  $48. ea. 12.99 for children under 12.  Wine pairing $20. additional.  Call for RSVP at 619-699-8222.

Amaya at the Grand Del Mar presents a three course Thanksgiving dinner  Thurs. Nov. 27 from 12:30 to 8pm.  $85. pp.  $125. with wine pairings.  Reservations at 858-314-1996.

A Fall Harvest wine tasting showcases San Diego County’s premier wines at Vintana Wine & Dine in Escondido, Sat. Nov. 22 from 3:30 to 5:30pm.  Taste barrel samples and new releases, with hors d’ouvres for $25. ea.  A wine symposium from 2 to 3pm plus tasting is $40. For tix, call 619-236-1299.

Taste Thanksgiving wines at San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Road Sat. Nov. 22 from 11 to 4pm for just $10.  Call 858-586-WINE for varietals.

Bonjour Beaujolais, France’s New “Discovery”

By Frank Mangio

“Discover Beaujolais ” read the campaign slogan.  It caught my eye because Beaujolais is one of the oldest wine brands in the world, crafted by respected wine makers in eastern France above Lyon for something like 2000 years.  It’s squeezed into an area dominated by Burgundy in the north, and the Rhone wines in the south.

The region has excellent growing conditions with granite based soil that lend great structure to the vines. So Beaujolais is hardly a “new kid”, but a seasonal grown up. Beaujolais shows up on more Thanksgiving dinner tables than almost  any other varietal, because it goes

 Beaujolais spokesman Anthony Collet, Monica Valentino, Joshua Orr Beaujolais Specialist and columnist Frank Mangio at a Beaujolais campaign kickoff at Puesto in San Diego

so well with traditional entrees at that holiday’s dinner table. In the past, it was available only during that time of the year.  It was harvested, fermented, aged for a short time, bottled and sent off to America as France ’s annual  pop-the-cork and “drink now” match for the nation’s turkey, ham and fish dinners.  Maison Louis Jadot ($14.95) with its 100% Gamay grapes is the name and big winner for Beaujolais .  It’s slightly spicy with a touch of licorice and rose petal, with a slightly tannic touch to aid in the acidity for food pairing.

Joshua Orr, the Beaujolais specialist and Sommelier at Marina Kitchen at the San Diego Embarcadero, went on about the Gamay grape.  “These wines are incredible values.  We are educating the public that these wines are for year-round, not just the Fall and Thanksgiving. I love the minerality in these wines and how it works with a fish combination and other light entrees.  In Beaujolais , reds are the Gamay grape and whites are Chardonnay. In this wine country, there are old vines that have produced wines for over 80 years adding great character to the wine.”

Gamay is somewhat quirky in that its skin is black, the juice is white but Gamay Beaujolais is red.  Many Gamay lovers prefer to chill this wine before drinking, as they would a white wine. From beef to berry desserts, Beaujolais can be trusted as a refreshing drink and an alternative to heavy reds.  See www.discoverbeaujolais.com.

Follow-up:  San Diego International Wine Show

The San Diego International Wine Show was held recently in the Paddock area of the Del Mar Fairgrounds.  There was lots to taste from both domestic and overseas wineries. The many cultures were flowing, from Italy to the Guadalupe Valley in Mexico . 

Show Director Donato Santarsieri, Italo Americano publication Sales Director Andrew Bagley and wine maker Lenny Ciarmoli toast the successful 3rd Annual International Wine Show.

Not to be outdone, California wines were well represented.  San Diego favorite Orfila Wines scored big with their Syrah, Viognier and an Italian varietal, Montepulciano di Abbruzzo with Justin Mund the wine maker. 

From the Jackson Family Estates, Freemark Abbey and Hartford Family Winery, from Napa Valley and Sonoma ’s Russian River topped the list. Proceeds went to Country Friends Rancho Santa Fe community projects. To contact the show’s director for next year’ s production, call 619-8WINESD.

Wine Bytes

• Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas presents a Chalk Hills Wine Dinner Thurs. May 22 at 6:30pm.  For pricing and details call 760-635-1066.
• Il Fornaio in Coronado brings you a Wedell Cellars Wine Maker dinner, Thurs. May 22 at 6pm.  Cost is $65. pp.  RSVP at 619-437-4911.  The owner/winemaker will be in attendance.
• Dynamic Wine & Food Pairing  with instructor Deborah Lazear is the kickoff of the next wine series at San Diego State , Sat. May 31 from 9am to 4:30pm. Get complete details at 619-594-5152.
• The Ramona Valley Vineyard Association has its 2^nd annual Grape Day in the Back Country Sat. May 24 at the San Vicente Inn. Program goes from 8am to 2pm with breakfast and lunch included.  $30. for RVVA members, $45. for the public.  Speaker is Wes Hagen, wine maker for Clos Pepe in Lompoc .  Reservation information at 760-505-9022.
• Celebrity Cruises has launched the first cruise land-based Great Wine and Food Festival, Sat. May 31 from 2 to 5pm at Great Park in Irvine Orange County . The event benefits Legal Aid  of Orange County . 40 great wines, craft breweries and spirits companies and top Orange County restaurants. $75. early bird tickets until May 12.   $100. after.  Go to www.greatwinefestival.com