Screaming Eagle Winemaker Nick Gislason – Napa Wine Valley ’s Wine Making Genius

by Frank Mangio
My jaw dropped as I uttered something like “could you say that again, only slower,” as we sat in a swank Dallas restaurant and the Sommelier presented a bottle of Screaming Eagle from Napa Valley, original vintage released in 1995, for “only” $10,000. per bottle. He  had two others he could sell me for the same price.

Nick Gislason is not a boy.  He’s in his early 30’s, but by all appearances he could pass for one.  I think it would be safe to say he is a young wine making genius for Screaming Eagle, the most iconic, enigmatic winery in Napa Valley and possibly the world.  Like being shot out of a cannon, he went through the highly regarded wine viticulture courses at UC Davis near Sacramento , all the while picking up wine jobs at leading wineries in Napa Valley like Harlan and O’Shaughnessy.

Nick Gislason is the winemaker for Napa Valley’s Screaming Eagle,
where a bottle of the current 2012 release reportedly sells for $850.

In an interview with Wine Enthusiast, Gislason revealed that “in my last few months at Davis, I was looking for jobs and it occurred to me that I should talk to Andy Erickson, (Screaming Eagle’s then winemaker). We sealed the deal and I became Andy’s assistant February 2010. But he left Screaming Eagle about  a year later.  I knew there was a chance I would get the  winemaker job although there were many candidates that were older and more experienced.  I was chosen for the job.” Wine Enthusiast then asked Gislason how he would describe himself and he answered “I’m somebody who’s charging 100 miles and hour and loves every single minute of it.”

The 57 acre Screaming Eagle was founded in Oakville , Napa Valley , in 1986 by a former real estate agent, Jean Philllips. The first winemaker was Heidi Barrett. The vineyard was replanted for Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc in 1995 for a Bordeaux style of wine after noted wine critic Robert Parker awarded Screaming Eagle 99 points, securing it as one of the most celebrated and expensive wines in the country.

In 2006, the vineyard was sold to Stanley Kroenke and Charles Banks for an undisclosed sum described by Phillips as “an offer I couldn’t refuse.” Kroenke, later would get complete control and according to the Denver Post, “one of his first decisions at Screaming Eagle was to pour roughly $3.3 million dollars of fine  Napa Valley Cabernet, the 2005 vintage, down the drain. The wine’s cult-like fans would have happily bought it, but he believed  it was not up to their standards.”  Kroenke was linked to Walmart wealth and later would become co-owner of the Denver Nuggets and St. Louis Rams, as well as vast holdings in real estate.

Nick Gislason is in his 5th year as winemaker with Screaming Eagle, and has gone through a tough 2015 season, although when I met him and tasted the 2012  at a luxury wine tasting during the harvest, he was ever the vibrant, youthful winemaker that his bios had predicted. According to a Wine Spectator report, about 17% of the 2015 crop was lost  due to drought and high winds, but a vineyard source predicts that quality will be excellent .  Shipping will be May 2018 but will be less cases, quite a bit below the current 900 cases from the bountiful 2012 vintage.

Screaming Eagle is difficult to get a hold of and purchase. The best thing to do is place your name on a “waiting list” at the web site.  There is no tasting room and no visitors are allowed.
To learn more about this iconic wine, visit screamingeagle.com.

Wine Bytes
Rising San Diego wine star Skip Coomber will appear at North County Wine Company in San Marcos Fri. Jan. 15th and help pour his wines.  Call 760-653-9032 for details.

The first of the 2016 series of San Diego Restaurant Week will happen Sun, Jan. 17th to Sun. Jan. 24th.  Dining specials are offered from over 180 restaurants in San Diego County .  Three course prix-fix dinner menus for as little as $20. per person.  Details at sandiegorestaurantweek.com.

Seasalt, my favorite new restaurant for 2015, has a royal night Wed. Jan. 20th at 6pm when King Estate from Oregon  comes to Del Mar for a specially crafted wine dinner. From Pinot Gris to Cabernet, you’ll enjoy the best of the Northwest. Reserve your seat at 858-755-7100.  Cost is $55.

Napa: Into the Valley of the Greatest Grapes-Part 2

by Frank Mangio
It’s day two of my journey to the center of the wine universe, Napa Valley .

This 30 mile long by five mile wide wine country is one of the smallest with just 4% of California ’s wine grape production.  Yet, it generates $13 billion dollars annually for the local economy and accounts for 1/3 of the wine sold in the U.S. It’s been well documented that the leading varietals in Napa Valley are Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Both were brought over from France and both Napa brands have beaten the French versions in high profile competitions.

Napa Valley has a dry Mediterranean climate, found only on 2% of the Earth’s surface which helps make it a consistently sought-after location for premium wines. There are nearly 500 wineries and I would venture to say that nearly all make Chardonnay and Cabernet, the top selling varietals in California.

In measuring the 2015 season, you have to go back to the winter of 2014 when a dry, warm winter resulted in small clusters of grapes on the vines with highly concentrated flavors.  According to the Napa Valley Vintners, this resulted in early bud break and a long flowering period.  In the Summer, everything got accelerated when a surge of hot temperatures  made for a quick conclusion to the season.  The first grapes for sparkling wine were picked on July 22nd and by October 10th, it was all over for the most part, about a month less than normal.  Napa Valley, like most other wine countries in California produced significantly less fruit this year, but what was collected is producing a high concentration of flavor.  Stacy Vogel, winemaker for Miner Winery said “we had one of the earliest harvests on record, with very low yields, half of what we produced in the great 2112 harvest.  The smaller cluster led to concentrated berries that gave us deep flavor and color.  We’ll wait about two years to bottle so they can fully develop.”

Ryan Hill of Hill Family Estate had a similar assessment when he reported that “we had a lot of heat in winter. January felt like May.  The spike in temperatures affected production to something like 2 to 4 tons of grapes per acre, about 60% less than normal.  In some cases with newer vineyards, costs will exceed sales.”

A Visit with the “Godfather” of Napa Valley
 Mike Grgich can “read” a grape better than anyone I know. Since 1958, when Miljenko “Mike” Grgich arrived in Napa Valley from Croatia to make wine, first for some of the leading winemakers of that era, then for his own winery, he has had a keen knack for knowing  when to hold them and when to pick them.

Hall of Fame winemaker Mike Grgich, at his Calistoga home in Napa Valley
with wine columnist Frank Mangio.

 
His legacy is well known worldwide, starting with his 1973 Chardonnay creation for Chateau Montelena that competed with similar wines at the famous Paris Tasting of 1976.  The Grgich-made Chardonnay defeated the French entries, a shock heard round the world of wine that put Napa Valley  firmly in a position of respect and fame.  It was only a year after this event that Grgich founded his own winery, Grgich Hills Estate.

He would later win the Great Chicago Chardonnay Showdown  of 1980, beating 221 other Chardonnays from around the world, including France for a second time, with a 1977 Chardonnay.  It was the first wine produced at his new winery, and today still tastes outstanding.

Grgich has now given the responsibility for winemaking and production to his Croatian nephew Ivo Jeramaz, and operations to his daughter Violet Grgich.  His 10 year Communications and Marketing Manager is Ken Morris, considered the most knowledgeable in the Napa Valley .

Never one to rest on his accomplishments, the 92 year old Grgich is thinking bigger these days. “I am now writing a book on my life as I know it, and I am helping to write a movie  on the real story of the Paris Tasting, from the book “Judgment of Paris.”  Shooting has already started on the movie with the star of the shoot, Mike Grgich.  The Napa Valley “Godfather” of Wine is reaching for new heights of fame. Read more at grgich.com.

Read more about the TASTE OF WINE Napa Valley Harvest Tour  Part 3, in next week’s column.

Wine Bytes
Seasalt Seafood Bistro presents a Luca Wine Dinner, Wed. Nov. 4th at 6pm.  Luca is an Argentina wine with many awards.  5 course dinner will pair with the wines.  $55. pp.  Call 858-765-7100 for an RSVP.

Twenty/20, in the Sheraton Hotel Carlsbad is planning a Whiskey Tasting event, Thurs. Nov. 5th at 6pm.  Delicious small plate pairings.  $55. ea.  Call 760-827-2500 for a place.

PAON Restaurant & Wine Bar Carlsbad has a Tolosa Wine event Wed. Nov. 4th from 6 to 8pm.  $20. charge.  More by calling 760-729-7377.