French Wine from the Rhone Valley, Ooh-la-la!

by Frank Mangio
I received a quickie education about Rhone Valley wines when, a number of years ago,  I trekked along with a press group up to the rapidly expanding wine country of Paso Robles, where a large contingent of wineries who are  Rhone Valley admirers, like to call themselves the “Rhone Rangers.”

They mostly farmed the stylish Rhone grapes like Syrah and Grenache, with a few trying  Mourvedre and Viognier.  All the while I was trying to get a handle on the more famous French Bordeaux and Burgundy areas. Fast forward to today and the shifting tastes of the wine consuming public, and we find that Bordeaux ( all blends) and Burgundy ( Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) have been outdistanced by the West Coast of the U.S. in popularity and taste, while in the southeast of France lies a wine country of increasing size and importance.  It’s the 250 mile Rhone Valley , that follows the Rhone river from Lyon in the north, to the southern coast of France , into the Mediterranean near the city of Marsielle .

The “Holy Hill” monument showing the steep Chapoutier Vineyards
overlooking Hermitage and the Rhone River .

 The Rhone Valley is no recent discovery.  The Estruscans, a pre-Roman Italian tribe introduced wine to the French about 500 BC.  The evolution of wine in that part of France has been widespread with a wide range of varietals, including Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne in the north. In the south, look for Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan.

Max Kogod operates Kogod Wine Merchant that markets Rhone Valley wines among others, to the on line consumer. He loves the freshness and bigness of the Rhone Valley.  “The Rhone Valley is really several districts united by the Rhone River ,” he observed.  “In the north there are very steep slopes of granite soil and much cooler weather.  This is Syrah country from the Cote-Rotie to Hermitage. “

Frank Mangio enjoys a rare Guillaume Gilles Cornas 2008 Syrah from the Rhone Valley,
poured by Max Kogod of Kogod Wine Merchant of Encinitas.

I asked Kogod how the southern Rhone Valley differed from the north. He replied that “the terroir of the south is made up of large river rocks in the vineyards. The weather is warmer and the topography near sea level.  Grenache is the lead grape here and the marquee wine is Chateauneuf du Pape which can be 100% Grenache, but more likely it’s a blend in combination with Mourvedre and Syrah, which supply the punch and tannins.  The rocky terrain provides vine struggle, resulting in more structure and power. I love the 2010 vintage. The fruit, acidity and freshness is without comparison.”

The Languedoc wine district is the largest wine district in France and lies southwest of the Rhone . Chateau De Paraza, a favorite of a friend who visits frequently, reports that the wines were full bodied and full of beautiful red fruit in the 2013 vintage. Most wines are in the $20. to $30. range in Languedoc , making them very reasonably priced. She went during the harvest of 2015 and reported that “2015 is promising a very good vintage.  Spring rains combined with a very hot summer  with just enough irrigation, led to healthy grapes ready to reach maturity for the picking period.”

Try the Domaine de Paraza Syrah 2013.  It’s a deep Ruby color, with hints of dark fruit and black currants. The result is a voluptuous and delectable wine, with a subtle spicy finish. To learn more about the Languedoc and Chateau De Paraza, go to chateau-de-paraza.com.  For more on Kogod Wine Merchant, visit KogodWine.com, or call 310-387-5104.

Wine Bytes
Hill Family Estate of Napa Valley will be hosting a wine dinner at the Pearl Hotel in San Diego Tues. March 22 from 6:30 to 9pm.  Ryan Hill of the winery will be presenting 4 great Hill wines with a four course dinner. Cost is $70. pp.  Call 503-984-5243 for an RSVP.

The new Wine Lover Urban Winery in the Hillcrest district of San Diego has a “Walk Through Spain” wine event Sat. March 26 from 5 to 7pm.  Five Spanish wines and a full cheese bar are featured.  Spanish wine specialist Kim Rouse presents.  $35. for non-wine club members, $30. for members.  Details at 619-294-9200.

A special Easter Champagne Brunch is planned at the Pinnacle Restaurant at Falkner Winery in Temecula.  Pinnacle has been voted “Best Restaurant” in Riverside County ’s top magazine. Many Mediterranean style dishes on the menu with multiple food stations, from 10:30am to 3:30pm.  Live music. Guests over 21 will receive a complimentary glass of Champagne .  Cost is $54.95. Club members are $49.95.  RSVP at 951-676-8231, x 4. from 10am to 3:30pm.

A rare Nebbiolo Wine Dinner will be presented at Cucina Enoteca Del Mar, Thurs. March 31 at 7pm.  This is a 4 course dinner paired with 7 excellent wines from Piedmont Italy,  highlighted by a 2004 Barbaresco,  and presented by Kogod Wine Merchant and Executive Chef Joe Magnanelli. Cost is $135. all inclusive. Contact max@kogodwine.com, or call  310-387-5104.

Rhone Style Wines Shine for Niner

It’s a given that the Napa/Sonoma wine country in California draws more visitors than any other vineyard region.  All of us who are connected to this star-kissed industry owe it to Napa/Sonoma and the heavenly wines they have given us.  I’m one for honoring those that made history and brought California the fame and fortune it deserved, but the next chapter of the wines of California could be more exciting than ever, and it’s there we raise a toast to Paso Robles.

Cheers to “Paso” and its 26,000 acres and over 200 Wineries. Located halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles off Highway 101, the countryside amazingly produces the largest variety of red and white wines from most of the world’s grape varietals due to an extraordinary set of sub-climates. Over 40 different grape types get along with each other.

Winemaker Patrick Muran recently presented Paso Robles
favorite Niner wines at Firenze in Encinitas.

Paso’s rich history began in the 1790’s and hasn’t looked back.
The area flourished when low production, boutique style, family-owned vineyards and wineries multiplied in the 1990s and early 2000s, favoring the land just east and west of the 101,  just a few miles from the cool coast with its ocean breezes.

One such family saw the future in the wine industry and acted on their beliefs.  Richard and Pam Niner founded Niner Wine Estates in 2001, a 148 vineyard acre plantation, and called it Bootjack Ranch.  Later they would increase their holdings and added Heart Hill Vineyard, 46 acres west of the 101, then recenty Jespersen Vineyard, 77 acres in the south and along the coast in Edna Valley, San Luis Obispo , for the express purpose planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  The present winery, off highway 46 west of the 101, was built in 2009 and is a two level, gravity-fed, all indoor production building with natural light, energy efficient and environmentally conscious.

Niner winemaker Patrick Muran is an avid surfer and sailor who grew up near Paso and Niner.  “I surfed all over the world and gained great respect for the raw power in nature,” he said.

“We are well known for our Cabernet, Bordeaux and Rhone Valley French blends, and we are going full throttle, romancing  Pinot Noir, that we are growing in the Edna Valley . We brought in a new winemaker whose an expert on making Pinot, Molly Bohlman.  She was from Paul Hobbs Winery in Sonoma. She is devoted to this style of grape.”

I asked Muran how the vintages were for him since he became Niner’s winemaker.  “2011 was a scary challenge with frost on the vines and lack of long periods of sun.  2012, which is the year for most of our current releases, was a much happier time.

There is now a Pinot Noir cycle.  We are on top of it with our 2012 from Edna Valley vineyard, and Molly’s credentials.”

The principal wine served at the recent Firenze Encinitas dinner was the 2010 Twisted Spur blend, served with Lamb Osso Buco and grilled asparagus.  It consisted of:  39% Merlot, 37% Petite Sirah, 22% Syrah and 2% Cabernet,with 18 months in oak barrel and 2,286 cases  made. I would recommend it at $35. retail. This is a big and bold flavor with rich blueberry and plum.

Other  Niner wines poured at this event were:  2012 Grenache Rose’, 2012 Edna Valley Pinot Noir and the 2012 Estate Petite Sirah.  A food and wine pairing cruise is planned by Niner Saturday June 20 from 1 to 4pm around Morro Bay . Call 805-226-4882 for details; and visit ninerwine.com.