Sirocco - Italy in the Desert

by Frank Mangio
I do my diligence with attention and care when it comes to considering a restaurant and its dinner and wine list.  Does it live up to its story by delivering the goods, like listing all the ingredients for each menu item and describing the wine in detail with vintage, district and taste?

I went through such a selection process when I recently screened several Italian style restaurants in the Coachella Valley with its posh desert communities and panoramic resorts.  Many coastal Southern Californians take the short 2 hour drive to experience the scenic wonders and sophisticated lifestyle that is the desert experience.  So I was prepared for an authentic Italian dinner with an old world bottle of wine at Sirocco, in the Renaissance Esmeralda Resort and Spa at Indian Wells.  I got a lot more.

Bouncing out of the kitchen to greet me was Executive Chef Gregorio Calderin, indeed a gregarious, passionate, hands-on chef  from a farming family where his Italian wife was raised.

Pasta is king at Sirocco in Indian Wells. All shapes and forms are hand made into delicate, 

elegant tasting entrees.

Many family cooking secrets are shared by Chef Gregorio with his diners at Sirocco.  First question I asked him was the meaning of Sirocco.  “It is a name for the winds that blow through Italy from Africa .  They usually bring change and we take that idea here with our menu.  It changes seasonally. Right now we have a a lot of braised meats and polenta beds.  They make nice, warm comfort foods.”  He went on to talk about what he feels diners are looking for these days.  “They are a lot more health conscious and want to know where the food comes from.
Sirocco offers complete freshness.  Either we make it here or we have it brought in daily from our farmer-suppliers.”

I was fascinated by little niceties that are a Sirocco signature, like home made Italian style sorbet for palate cleansing just before the main entrée, a coffee /tea presentation with crystal, truffles and if ordered, cognac.  When finished, each diner receives complimentary biscotti.

 My menu selections included:  Spinaci Al Tangerino, Risotto Allo Zafferano e Gamberi and finally, Fazzoletti Al Bolognese, chef’s  recommended family recipe with house made spinach pasta and Kurobuta Pork Ragu.  Oh so sweet, and just like his “Nonna” made it.
The wine selection was just as special:  a rare Masi Mazzano Amerone Valpolicello Classico 2001, one of the best wine years in Italy.

Sirocco is a dinner-only restaurant notable for its awards including four diamonds and a Wine Spectator Best of Award.  See www.marriott.com.

Follow-Up:  the Wines of Santa Rita Hills
A few weeks ago TASTE OF WINE TV profiled the Sta. Rita wine district between Santa Barbara and Paso Robles, with about 61 vineyards producing mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The early morning marine layer, the right soils and rising elevations make it  clearly compatible for these Burgundian favorites.

As noted, some 21 wineries presented themselves at a Sta. Rita Hills Road Show in San Diego last weekend at Marina Kitchen.

Aaron Walker, winemaker of Pali Wines, and Gray Hartley co-owner of Hitching Post Wines, from the Sta. Rita Hills of California.

 
Two standouts happened to be side by side at the event for good reason.  Aaron Walker of Pali Wine is Pali’s winemaker, and is also the son-in-law of my other pick, Hitching Post  co-owner Gray Hartley.  Pali is worth a visit to Lompoc and their winery for its uncompromising Pinot Noir quality.  I found the value impressive for the price.  Try the 2012 Huntington Pinot for $22.

 Hitching Post gained unexpected fame when Sideways, the movie, used the restaurant and winery and, of course, the main character, Miles, loved their Pinot Noir.  Try their 2011 Highliner, a top of the line Pinot Noir for $40.  Web sites are:  www.paliwineco.com and www.hitchingpostwines.com.

Wine Bytes
The Hilton Beachfront Hotel in Carlsbad is the location for North Eats, a culinary food festival showcasing 20+ North County chefs, Baker & Olive and Solterra Winery, Sun. Apr. 13 from 4 to 7pm.  Generous samplings of food and wines with live music.  Tickets are $50. ea. at bakerandolive.com. or call 760-207-8212.

West Steak & Seafood in Carlsbad has a Trefethen Napa Valley Wine dinner Tues. Apr. 15 with rare bottles being paired with an exciting menu.  $150. pp.  Call 760-930-9100 for details.

The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe’s Morada Bar will have a tasting of premium wines and light appetizers Thurs. Apr. 17 during Happy Hour. RSVP required at 858-381-8212.

California Wines on the Road Less Traveled

Between the Central California coastal city of Lompoc and the town of Buellton , just west of the 101, lies 30,700 square acres of the Sta. Rita Hills .  This pristine, peaceful land is located in Santa Barbara County and is part of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA. ( American Viticulture Area)

Its history as Sta. Rita Hills  AVA dates back only to 2005, but Franciscan missionaries were planting as early as 1787. Today, some 2,900 acres are planted to wine grapes in rocky soil where coastal fog fills the valley and hills intensifying a cool-climate influence, what’s needed for quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Pinot makes up about 78% of the vines in the area.

 The Pacific Ocean’s cooling influence helps Central Coastal  California ’s Sta. Rita Hills produce some of the best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the state.

Natural acidity, balanced with firm structure, is a common thread in the wines throughout the region where some 60 vineyards and wineries have been established.

My sources for this article included two enthusiastic disciples of the Sta. Rita Hills wine country.  Joshua Orr is the in-house sommelier and bar manager at Marina Kitchen, in the Marriott Marquis and Marina in downtown San Diego .  In my conversations with him about wines with unique characteristics, his passion for Sta. Rita Hills poured out, and he revealed plans for an afternoon wine tasting of the region and a BBQ dinner to follow, on Sunday March 30.  The consumer tasting will start at 3pm, with the BBQ at 5:30pm.  That caught my attention, so I called the other disciple, Barbara Satterfield, who is the Executive Director of the Sta. Rita Hills Wine Growers Alliance. “We have an ideal climate for Pinot Noir with the perfect elevation, climate and soil, that define our AVA,” she said.  “We are very excited to be coming to San Diego , especially after a great 2013 harvest with high yields and quality grapes.”

The Marina Kitchen event Sunday March 30 will be a walk around with 20 wineries pouring for $20. per person.  The BBQ features many active food stations, large format bottles and more selections not found in the walk around. Cost is $45. each.  A discount will be offered for both. Purchase tickets at eventbrite.com.  Keyword is Sta. Rita Hills .

Bogle is Best of Breed for Value Wines
Wine Spectator recently confirmed what I have been saying ever since I discovered the wonderful world of wine, paid $9.00 for a Petite Sirah and fell in love with Bogle.

That look of determination belongs to Warren Bogle, President and Vineyard Manager of Bogle

Vineyards  and a 6th generation family farmer.

This 2010 version was named a “top value” by the world’s largest circulated wine magazine. Most recently Bogle increased sales by 16% to 1.75 million cases, the core portfolio features 10 offerings, including the most recent blend, Essential Red ($10.)  It contains Old Vine Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet and Petite Sirah and is aged 18 months in French oak.

“Our brand is really founded on value, and our core principal has always been to produce great wines for the money,” said Chris Catterton of Bogle Sales and Marketing in a recent column in Wine Spectator. The growth of sales was nearly out of control, until Bogle spent 50 million dollars on a new wine facility in Clarksburg in the Sacramento Delta, adding storage of about 100,000 barrels. Concentrated, rich and savory, Bogle’s appeal is all about every person’s budget at no sacrifice in quality.  See more at www.boglewinery.com.

Wine Bytes
The 3rd annual San Diego International Wine Show is scheduled at the Paddock, San Diego Fairgrounds in Del Mar Apr. 26 and 27.  Spaces are still left for wineries in California .  Contact the show producer at 760-807-6042.

RELM Wine Beer Bistro in Carlsbad will hold a cooking with wine class Sun. March 23 from 5:30 to 7:30pm.  Private chef Victoria East shows how to prepare amazing dishes with wine.  $45. ea.  Phone 760-230-2077.

Mille Fleurs in Rancho Santa Fe has its next Taste of Terroirs dinner, Tues. March 25 featuring Argentine wines. Owner Bertrand Hug will lead guests through 6 wines.  $100. per guest.  RSVP at 858-756-3085.

Vittorio’s in Carmel Valley off the 56 has a Foxen wine dinner Thurs. March 27 at 6pm.  5 courses with 5 Foxen wines.  $54.50 pp.  RSVP at 858-538-5884.