by Frank Mangio
The Little Italy food-scene is undergoing a renaissance with smart new restaurants mixing it up with old fixtures like Filippi’s and Mona Lisa. Davanti’s and its sister restaurant, Mia Francesca, opening soon in Del Mar Highlands Center, comes from Chicago’s Little Italy and owner/chef Scott Harris. The food is Roman/Tuscan with a big emphasis on small bites, and food as a social experience.
Taste of Wine columnist Frank Mangio holds a Davanti style “menu” as General Manager Josh Zanow points out the wines which are 50% Italian.
Davanti has that neighborhood, rustic bar feel that you would see in the farm villages and fishing communities of Italy. “We are all about treating diners as family and serving them fresh foods that they will talk about and bring others to enjoy,” said Harris. I saw people come by the airy front entrance and the wait help greeted them with their first name. Many of them lived on the same street: typical of a Chicago style eating house.
Josh Zanow is the impassioned General Manager of Davanti who worked under the legendary Thomas Keller at the French Laundry in Napa Valley, then moved over to the wine side and went to work at the respected Plumpjack Winery nearby. As you may have guessed, Plumpjack is one of the premium wines on Davanti’s list.
Zanow has 20 wines by the glass, plus the option of ordering wine by the ½ carafe as well as the bottle. Beside Plumpjack Cabernet, I tried the La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino which is Italy’s wine-royalty. We all toasted our lunches with a La Fiera Moscato from Puglia. “Helps with digestion”, someone commented.
Late afternoons after work or touring, Davanti has an outdoor patio on warm days, or the bar in the middle of the dining room, for a 2 hour unique menu of food and drink. Street tables are coming soon for an authentic trattoria feel. “We made a calculated decision to make this a truly family style restaurant,” Zanow asserted. “We did not put any TV’s or video games in. We want families to gather, eat and talk.”
Next I had to compliment Executive Chef Jonathan Batty on his Bistecca con Ravanelli e Funghi, an oven roasted tri tip steak with roasted radish and grilled oyster mushroom. It wasn’t the usual old-country breaded version, as chef felt it was more palatable for new-world foodies in this style. Chef also supervises the Chicago operation. Plans are to offer a Sunday brunch from 10 to 2pm starting in Mid October.
Davanti Enoteca is still another Italian Restaurant in the Little Italy District, with lovely lunches, an upbeat indoor-outdoor happy hour, and dinners are flavorful and easy to digest. Yet the techniques of modern hospitality blending with traditional Italian style gatherings, define the restaurant and the neighborhood through food and wine.
Josh Zanow with his kitchen and bar team are out-reaching for a kind of hospitality that is unique to this neighborhood. Visit Davanti at www.davantisandiego.com, or call at 619-237-9606.
Wine Bytes
Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula has a Brown Derby Cigar Night, with a dinner, entertainment and great wines Fri. Oct. 14 from 6 to 10pm. $100. pp. $90. wine club. RSVP at 951-699-9463.
Wine Styles in Encinitas is planning a John Alan Winery Tasting Sat. Oct. 15 from 5 to 8pm. This Paso Robles wine choice is the #1 seller at Wine Styles. $14. reg. price, $12. for members. 760-633-0057.
Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido presents Micheal David Wines Sat. Oct. 15 from 2 to 4pm. $10. pp. RSVP at 760-745-1200.
Orfila Vineyards and Winery has a Concert in the Vines for Sun. Oct. 16 from 6 to 8pm. Features Stoney B Blues Band and the Super Q Catering. Includes a glass of Orfila Wine, all for $25. Call 760-738-6500 for more.
La Jolla Gallery offers a Wine, Walk and Taste event for Thurs. Oct. 20 from 5 to 9pm. Tour over 15 galleries while sampling red and white wines. Food sampling included for $40. pre pay, $45. day of event. Details at 619-233-5008.
San Antonio’s L.A. Winery has a Tasting Room Grand Opening and A Day in Tuscany 4 course Luncheon and Wine Tasting Sat. and Sun. Oct. 22 and 23 from 1 to 4pm. Downtown L.A. $75. pp. Call 888-223-1401.
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