Chicago Style Italian Comes to San Diego

by Frank Mangio

The Little Italy food-scene is undergoing a renaissance with smart new restaurants mixing it up with old fixtures like Filippi’s and Mona Lisa. Davanti’s and its sister restaurant, Mia Francesca, opening soon in Del Mar Highlands Center, comes from Chicago’s Little Italy and owner/chef Scott Harris. The food is Roman/Tuscan with a big emphasis on small bites, and food as a social experience.

Taste of Wine columnist Frank Mangio holds a Davanti style “menu” as General Manager Josh Zanow points out the wines which are 50% Italian.

Davanti has that neighborhood, rustic bar feel that you would see in the farm villages and fishing communities of Italy. “We are all about treating diners as family and serving them fresh foods that they will talk about and bring others to enjoy,” said Harris. I saw people come by the airy front entrance and the wait help greeted them with their first name. Many of them lived on the same street: typical of a Chicago style eating house.

Josh Zanow is the impassioned General Manager of Davanti who worked under the legendary Thomas Keller at the French Laundry in Napa Valley, then moved over to the wine side and went to work at the respected Plumpjack Winery nearby. As you may have guessed, Plumpjack is one of the premium wines on Davanti’s list.

Zanow has 20 wines by the glass, plus the option of ordering wine by the ½ carafe as well as the bottle. Beside Plumpjack Cabernet, I tried the La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino which is Italy’s wine-royalty. We all toasted our lunches with a La Fiera Moscato from Puglia. “Helps with digestion”, someone commented.

Late afternoons after work or touring, Davanti has an outdoor patio on warm days, or the bar in the middle of the dining room, for a 2 hour unique menu of food and drink. Street tables are coming soon for an authentic trattoria feel. “We made a calculated decision to make this a truly family style restaurant,” Zanow asserted. “We did not put any TV’s or video games in. We want families to gather, eat and talk.”

Next I had to compliment Executive Chef Jonathan Batty on his Bistecca con Ravanelli e Funghi, an oven roasted tri tip steak with roasted radish and grilled oyster mushroom. It wasn’t the usual old-country breaded version, as chef felt it was more palatable for new-world foodies in this style. Chef also supervises the Chicago operation. Plans are to offer a Sunday brunch from 10 to 2pm starting in Mid October.

Davanti Enoteca is still another Italian Restaurant in the Little Italy District, with lovely lunches, an upbeat indoor-outdoor happy hour, and dinners are flavorful and easy to digest. Yet the techniques of modern hospitality blending with traditional Italian style gatherings, define the restaurant and the neighborhood through food and wine.

Josh Zanow with his kitchen and bar team are out-reaching for a kind of hospitality that is unique to this neighborhood. Visit Davanti at www.davantisandiego.com, or call at 619-237-9606.

Wine Bytes

Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula has a Brown Derby Cigar Night, with a dinner, entertainment and great wines Fri. Oct. 14 from 6 to 10pm. $100. pp. $90. wine club. RSVP at 951-699-9463.

Wine Styles in Encinitas is planning a John Alan Winery Tasting Sat. Oct. 15 from 5 to 8pm. This Paso Robles wine choice is the #1 seller at Wine Styles. $14. reg. price, $12. for members. 760-633-0057.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido presents Micheal David Wines Sat. Oct. 15 from 2 to 4pm. $10. pp. RSVP at 760-745-1200.

Orfila Vineyards and Winery has a Concert in the Vines for Sun. Oct. 16 from 6 to 8pm. Features Stoney B Blues Band and the Super Q Catering. Includes a glass of Orfila Wine, all for $25. Call 760-738-6500 for more.

La Jolla Gallery offers a Wine, Walk and Taste event for Thurs. Oct. 20 from 5 to 9pm. Tour over 15 galleries while sampling red and white wines. Food sampling included for $40. pre pay, $45. day of event. Details at 619-233-5008.

San Antonio’s L.A. Winery has a Tasting Room Grand Opening and A Day in Tuscany 4 course Luncheon and Wine Tasting Sat. and Sun. Oct. 22 and 23 from 1 to 4pm. Downtown L.A. $75. pp. Call 888-223-1401.

Tommy V’s Catching the Wine & Dine Wave

by Frank Mangio

There’s a new team, a new attitude and a strong wave in place at Tommy V’s Del Mar, across from the polo fields. Owner Tommy Maggiore of Tuscany La Costa fame has placed veteran restaurateur Tyler Willams in place as Manager with Executive Chef Giorgio Loverdi and head waiter Eduardo Laquiz.

I had been to Tommy V’s 3 times to catch the wave of excitement and good times that seemed to be in the air. The latest was a recent gathering of friends, family and guests of the new Gen 7 wines, introduced by owner Tim Bacino at a new release party.

Tyler Willimas,left, manager of Tommy V’s in Del Mar, welcomes Tim Bacino, 2nd from left, and his family and friends at the Gen 7 wine party.

Wine included: Viognier, Muscat Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and an awesome Red Blend( Zinfandel, Cab Franc and Carignane, a rare grape from the south of France) called Road To Zanzibar, $34. at Gen 7’s site.

Bacino is no novice. Members of his family built the Brookside Winery brand in the 70’s to great heights, with 36 retail wine stores in California and elsewhere before selling to a national chain. Gen 7 is named after Bacino’s young daughter, the 7th generation connected to the family business and is off to a great start, being named “Best Micro Winery” in a recent competition in Sacramento.

Earlier in the month I had put Tommy V’s to the test as the Italian Chophouse with classic old world interpretations of that style of cuisine. With Eduardo as our waiter and Executive Chef Giorgio personally superivising we got right into a typical Tommy V’s menu extravaganza of cured meats and cheeses, Arugula Salad, and a beautifully crafted Bistecca Siciliano, a 16 ounce Dry-Aged steak rubbed with herb and cheese crumbs with a side of sauteed mushrooms.

Eduardo’s choice for me to wash the meal down in traditional style was a a Vietti Barbera D’ Asti, 2008. Barbera is a red grape from the Piedmont District of Northern Italy. French Oak Barrels store this wine for 12 months, then in steel tanks for 2 months before bottling.

Head Waiter Eduardo Laquiz and Executive Chef Giorgio Loverdi service a large group of diners at Tommy V’s in Del Mar.

This wine will emit a ruby purple color with red cherry, minerals and a hint of vanilla. The Barbera compliments pasta and breaded veal, pork, chicken and steak, and is an affordable value wine on Tommy V’s list of worldwide reds. Find more information at www.tommyvdelmar.com. Gen 7’s site is www.gen7wines.com.

Wine Bytes

San Diego Restaurant Week is back, Sun. Sept. 18 through Fri. Sept. 23, with over 180 restaurants participating in discounted 3 course prix fixe menus See www.sandiegorestaurantweek.com for a location near you.

PAON Restaurant & Wine Bar in Carlsbad has an Italian Tasting with six wines for $14., Thurs. Sept. 15 to Wed. Sept. 21, 2 to 9pm. Call 760-729-7377.

Barolo and Barbaresco wines are featured at Bacchus Wine Market, downtown San Diego Fri. Sept. 16 from 4 to 8:30pm. Some of Italy’s greatest wines will be poured. $40. fee. RSVP required. Call 619-236-0005.

The 2011 Taste of Hope is planned for Sun. Sept. 18 from 4 to 7pm on the terrace at the Hilton Bayfront in San Diego. $65. pre sale, $75. at the door. Downtown restaurants will offer cuisine, with an excellent selection of wines. Proceeds to the Cty Of Hope. Call 858-452-6846 for more.

Monte De Oro Winery in Temecula celebrates Calilfornia Wine Month with a Grape Stomp Sun. Sept. 18th. Call for more information at 951-491-6551.

The WineSellar in Sorrento Valley focuses on Brunello Di Montalcino Wines, the elite wines from Tuscany, Wed. Sept. 21 starting at 6pm. $25. pp. Check it out at 858-450-9557