Dave Phinney – Mastermind of The Prisoner

by Frank Mangio
This is a story about “new world” wine in the Napa Valley and the meteoric rise of Dave Phinney, who had an idea about blending wine out of the box. You might say he released “the Prisoner” and freed him to hit a creative home run in the wine world.  But we digress.  The story started in 1995 when Phinney, confused about what he wanted out of life, took a friend’s advice and studied wine for a semester in Florence Italy .

Once graduated from university life, he set out to find work in a Napa Valley vineyard and found one at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1997. A year later he started his own winery, Orin Swift Cellars with 2 tons of Zinfandel, and not much else.

Master winemaker Dave Phinney is living the Napa Valley dream, when  in 2003 he created the now-famous blend The Prisoner at his Orin Swift Cellars winery, which has reportedly sold recently for 100 mlllion dollars to E. and J. Gallo wines.

He spent the next few years making wine for others as well as himself, experimenting with the way the wines tasted and looked, with mixing and expressive labeling.  It hit him in 2003, when he added together “mixed blacks,” like the old Italian immigrants who came to Napa Valley used to do.  He made Zinfandel the major varietal and added it to the standard traditional “black” blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Charbono.  He called it The Prisoner from the label he chose, an etching of a prisoner drawn by the famous artist Goya.

At first, the Prisoner produced just 385 cases in its first vintage.  It caught on quickly as the new world’s newest and tastiest blend, and eventually went to 85,000 cases in 10 years.  The last vintage of The Prisoner made by Phinney before he sold the name is the 2013 vintage.( $45.)  It has 44% Zinfandel with 20% Cabernet and 16% Petite Sirah, and the rest Grenache and Charbono.  Alcohol content is a hefty 15.2%.  It is a deep ruby red hue with aromas of black cherry and plum and roasted coffee beans, with a long finish.

It had me going back for more.  I was captivated. Without The Prisoner, Orin Swift and Dave Phinney went international with old vine Grenache made on 200 acres in the French Langedoc region as well as Napa Valley Cabernet brands like Mercury Head, Papillion and Palermo. Mannequin is a Chardonnay based brand and Abstract is a red blend mainly with Grenache.

Locations is a value brand lineup from places around the world. Look for a single large letter on the label. Most recently, this story  shot skyward when E. and J. Gallo, the legendary  decades-long  jug wine bottle company from Modesto, announced that it had acquired Phinney’s company, Orin Swift Cellars,  for a reported 100 million dollars. Phinney will remain in charge.  Learn more at orinswift.com/information.

Antinori Wines at La Gran Terraza USD
Antinori, as most of us know, is one of the iconic Tuscan wines to know.  His family has been making wne since 1385. I learned about Italian wines from Piero Antinori and Wine Spectator when I first began TASTE OF WINE in 2005.  At a recent wine dinner at the University of San Diego ’s posh La Gran Terraza, the next chapter of Antinori was revealed by its Business Manager in Southern California , Alessia Botturi.

Alessia Botturi of Antinori Winery of Tuscany with La Gran Terraza manager
Luis Rosas as they display the Tormaresca wines.

It is the Antinori Tormaresca brand from the Puglia district of Italy.  Tormaresco means watchtower in Italian and they were built to keep away feudal empires from conquering Puglia , now more known for its Primitivo, a grape that closely resembles Zinfandel in California. The Tomraresca Toricicoda 2013 ($20.97) is closest to what we call Zinfandel.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Antinori’s legendary Tignanello, one of the first and best “Super Tuscans,” pioneer wines that were the first in Italy to blend the Sangiovese grape with other varietals. ($95.)  They now command very high prices, and are not made unless the vintage is among the best.  Details about La Gran Terraza and other wine dinners can be found at lagranterraza.com.

Wine Bytes
Vittorio’s in Carmel Valley off the 56 will be presenting a Cakebread Cellars wine dinner, Thurs. Aug. 25th at 6pm.  This well respected Napa Valley winery will be paired with Vittroio’s splendid dinner menus featuring Beef Wellington and Cakebread’s Cabernet. Cost is $59.50 pp. RSVP at  858-538-5884.

Decoy Dockside in Lake San Marcos has its Sneak Preview special event for the new restaurant, Sat. Aug. 27th from 6 to 10pm.  Cost is $100. ea.  Enjoy complimentary welcome cocktail, appetizers, chef demos, live music and a fireworks spectacular.  RSVP at 619-236-8397.

Live at Lake Henshaw at Santa Ysabel, a food, wine and music festival across from the Roundup Grill.  Date is Sun. Aug. 28th from 11 to 5pm.  Cost is $30 to benefit Shelter to Soldier.  Music by Steelhorse Country. Wine from Ramona Ranch Winery.  Tickets by calling 760-782-2729.

California State University San Marcos is offering its next course in the Certificate for Wine, Beer and Spirits, starting Sept. 8th and emphasizing craft beer.  Fee is $269.  More info at csusm.edu/el/wbsq.

Wine Diva Masters the Zen of Zin

by Frank Mangio
Carol Shelton of Carol Shelton Wines in Sonoma appears more a cherubic schoolteacher than a wine diva, making and romancing that zesty Zinfandel that is the 3rd most-planted wine grape in California.  Last I counted and tasted, she had seven zins on her current list, four of which I had the pleasure of getting to know at a recent event at the Encinitas Wine Merchants.

Before going through this luscious list, it’s important to know that Shelton reportedly has been cited as the most awarded woman winemaker in the U.S. and has been honored as Winemaker of the Year numerous times.  After enology studies at UC Davis, she launched her career working under industry greats like Andre Tchelistcheff and Robert

Zinfandel grapes from many California regions are used by Carol Shelton to make seven styles of Zinfandel wines from her Sonoma Winery.

Mondavi.  She learned more when she traveled to Australia and went to work for Peter Lehman Wines.  It was there she found many union organized workers making a lot of dull wine. “I had enough and came back to California and did some winemaking time in the Central Valley where I found more of the same recipe type wines with a set formula,” she lamented.  “I finally found my niche by going back to Tchelistcheff who was chief winemaker at Buena Vista in the Napa Valley.  He used to speak to his wines, like ‘Good morning ladies, how are we doing today.’  He was a very dedicated winemaker.”

I asked her why there was so much Zinfandel on her list.  “Zin doesn’t have to fight with European wines for an identity and doesn’t have to compete with old world versions.  It’s fruit friendly and fruit forward.  It’s a happy-puppy kind of wine.  Zin show California terroir better than any other varietal.”  Shelton shows that better than most by letting the natural flavors speak for themselves.  There are no artificial flavors or oak influences, and she takes care that the grapes not become overripe and overcome by high alcohol content.

Here are the Zins to look for:  2008 Wild Thing, an old vine Zin, grown organically from Mendocino with a twist cap.( $19.)  “This is the wine we’re most known for,” she said. “It has 78% Zin, 12% Carignane, 7% Petite Sirah and 3% Cabernet.” Others include 2009 Monga Zin from Cucamonga in Southern California and Karma Zin from the Russian River Valley in Sonoma.

Carol Shelton has received many titles over the years, but the most fitting is now “Queen of Zin.”  Find out more at www.carolshelton.com.


Elizabeth Huettinger is New Wine Director at the Grand Del Mar
The long-awaited replacement for seven-year legendary wine director Jesse Rodriguez has been named at the Grand Del Mar and its Five-Star, Five-Diamond Addison Restaurant.

 She is Elizabeth Huettinger, who most recently was Assistant Wine Director at the world-famed Spago in Beverly Hills, working with Master Sommelier Christopher Miller.  She has previous
sommelier experience in San Diego and Carmel.

Elizabeth Huettinger is the new Wine Director at Addison.

She is currently studying to take the Court of Master Sommeliers’ Advanced Sommelier exam. She will be supervising Addison’s 37,000 bottle wine collection and directing the resort’s 13 person credentialed sommelier team, as well as the wine dinners, tastings and educational seminars.

Wine Bytes
Bistro Sixty in San Diego has a Fields Family Wine Dinner, Fri. June 7 at 6pm. A 5 course dinner is offered with wines to match.  $70. ea.  Call 619-287-8186 to RSVP.

Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula lights up with Cigar Night, Sun. June 9 from 6:30 to 9:30pm.  Add a five course wine/fine dinner and entertainment and it’s a memorable night.  Admission $140. including 3 cigars.  Call 951-699-9463 for details.

Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas is presenting the Napa Valley Cakebread Wine Dinner, Tues. June 11 at 6:30pm.  This 5 course dinner is $100. pp. RSVP at 760-635-1066.

La Gran Terraza, in the University of San Diego, invites the public to its Simi  Sonoma Wine Dinner on Tues. June 11. Reception at 6pm.  Cost is $50. RSVP at 619-849-8205.

The 2nd Annual Baja Bash will happen on Sat. June 15 from 6 to 10pm at the Broadway Pier Port Pavilion.  Spend an evening with food, drinks and entertainment. Chefs and wines from both sides of the border will participate.  The B Side Players will drive the latin beat.  $75. admission.  Information at 619-423-8665.

West Steak and Seafood Carlsbad presents a Napa Valley Duckhorn Dinner Tues. June 18 at 6:30pm.  $150.  Call 760-930-9100