Dave Phinney – Mastermind of The Prisoner

by Frank Mangio
This is a story about “new world” wine in the Napa Valley and the meteoric rise of Dave Phinney, who had an idea about blending wine out of the box. You might say he released “the Prisoner” and freed him to hit a creative home run in the wine world.  But we digress.  The story started in 1995 when Phinney, confused about what he wanted out of life, took a friend’s advice and studied wine for a semester in Florence Italy .

Once graduated from university life, he set out to find work in a Napa Valley vineyard and found one at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1997. A year later he started his own winery, Orin Swift Cellars with 2 tons of Zinfandel, and not much else.

Master winemaker Dave Phinney is living the Napa Valley dream, when  in 2003 he created the now-famous blend The Prisoner at his Orin Swift Cellars winery, which has reportedly sold recently for 100 mlllion dollars to E. and J. Gallo wines.

He spent the next few years making wine for others as well as himself, experimenting with the way the wines tasted and looked, with mixing and expressive labeling.  It hit him in 2003, when he added together “mixed blacks,” like the old Italian immigrants who came to Napa Valley used to do.  He made Zinfandel the major varietal and added it to the standard traditional “black” blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Charbono.  He called it The Prisoner from the label he chose, an etching of a prisoner drawn by the famous artist Goya.

At first, the Prisoner produced just 385 cases in its first vintage.  It caught on quickly as the new world’s newest and tastiest blend, and eventually went to 85,000 cases in 10 years.  The last vintage of The Prisoner made by Phinney before he sold the name is the 2013 vintage.( $45.)  It has 44% Zinfandel with 20% Cabernet and 16% Petite Sirah, and the rest Grenache and Charbono.  Alcohol content is a hefty 15.2%.  It is a deep ruby red hue with aromas of black cherry and plum and roasted coffee beans, with a long finish.

It had me going back for more.  I was captivated. Without The Prisoner, Orin Swift and Dave Phinney went international with old vine Grenache made on 200 acres in the French Langedoc region as well as Napa Valley Cabernet brands like Mercury Head, Papillion and Palermo. Mannequin is a Chardonnay based brand and Abstract is a red blend mainly with Grenache.

Locations is a value brand lineup from places around the world. Look for a single large letter on the label. Most recently, this story  shot skyward when E. and J. Gallo, the legendary  decades-long  jug wine bottle company from Modesto, announced that it had acquired Phinney’s company, Orin Swift Cellars,  for a reported 100 million dollars. Phinney will remain in charge.  Learn more at orinswift.com/information.

Antinori Wines at La Gran Terraza USD
Antinori, as most of us know, is one of the iconic Tuscan wines to know.  His family has been making wne since 1385. I learned about Italian wines from Piero Antinori and Wine Spectator when I first began TASTE OF WINE in 2005.  At a recent wine dinner at the University of San Diego ’s posh La Gran Terraza, the next chapter of Antinori was revealed by its Business Manager in Southern California , Alessia Botturi.

Alessia Botturi of Antinori Winery of Tuscany with La Gran Terraza manager
Luis Rosas as they display the Tormaresca wines.

It is the Antinori Tormaresca brand from the Puglia district of Italy.  Tormaresco means watchtower in Italian and they were built to keep away feudal empires from conquering Puglia , now more known for its Primitivo, a grape that closely resembles Zinfandel in California. The Tomraresca Toricicoda 2013 ($20.97) is closest to what we call Zinfandel.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Antinori’s legendary Tignanello, one of the first and best “Super Tuscans,” pioneer wines that were the first in Italy to blend the Sangiovese grape with other varietals. ($95.)  They now command very high prices, and are not made unless the vintage is among the best.  Details about La Gran Terraza and other wine dinners can be found at lagranterraza.com.

Wine Bytes
Vittorio’s in Carmel Valley off the 56 will be presenting a Cakebread Cellars wine dinner, Thurs. Aug. 25th at 6pm.  This well respected Napa Valley winery will be paired with Vittroio’s splendid dinner menus featuring Beef Wellington and Cakebread’s Cabernet. Cost is $59.50 pp. RSVP at  858-538-5884.

Decoy Dockside in Lake San Marcos has its Sneak Preview special event for the new restaurant, Sat. Aug. 27th from 6 to 10pm.  Cost is $100. ea.  Enjoy complimentary welcome cocktail, appetizers, chef demos, live music and a fireworks spectacular.  RSVP at 619-236-8397.

Live at Lake Henshaw at Santa Ysabel, a food, wine and music festival across from the Roundup Grill.  Date is Sun. Aug. 28th from 11 to 5pm.  Cost is $30 to benefit Shelter to Soldier.  Music by Steelhorse Country. Wine from Ramona Ranch Winery.  Tickets by calling 760-782-2729.

California State University San Marcos is offering its next course in the Certificate for Wine, Beer and Spirits, starting Sept. 8th and emphasizing craft beer.  Fee is $269.  More info at csusm.edu/el/wbsq.

Relax, Enjoy, Laugh More = RELM

by Frank Mangio
RELM is an inviting, comfortable wine beer bistro in the middle of the downtown district of Carlsbad.
RELM was one of the first in the market to offer a large retail wine shop within the bistro.  Its energetic owner is Rene Fleming who, 4 years ago, decided to take her knowledge and experience in selling wine at the wholesale level, and set up a retail wine operation that would give smaller vineyards and wineries a place for customers to discover their brands.

Rene Fleming, operator of RELM Wine Beer Bistro in downtown Carlsbad

“Here it’s all about new small production wines to open our minds and palates to what’s new and wonderful,” she said. “What has helped this strategy is a younger wine demographic that loves to discuss new wines.  If you don’t know our wine labels, that’s exciting for us.”

The RELM name was a natural and underlines the feeling that Fleming projects, that of coming in, and having a home away from home . “I always want our bistro to be a family place with a sense of community.  We have people that have met here and became close friends”

Equally exciting is the growth of the small bites menu, created and shaped by Chef Aaron Ahlquist. The menu is seasonal although certain favorites stay by popular demand, like Prosciutto Mac and Cheese, house-made Hummus and Baked Brie with strawberry coulis.  The bistro encourages sharing plates and suggests wines by the flight for a multi-tasting experience.

Microbrewed beer has been a fast and trendy seller and RELM was quick to add some 5 draft and 6 bottled beers to the menu. “It’s really cool that San Diego is the micro beer capital.  We carry nut brown ale and amber ale from Stone

The interior of RELM Wine Beer Bistro is warm and inviting and a favorite meeting place
in downtown Carlsbad .

Brewing, the most popular name in micro brewing, that got its start in 1996 in nearby Escondido .  We get a big turnout for sporting events when lots of couples gather and ask for the beer list.  This trend is here to stay,” she declared.

RELM is now up to 15 employees and has added another location in San Elijo, which is doing just as well. A happy time to try RELM is at their Happy Hours from Tuesday through Friday from 4 to 6pm. All food items are 25% off.  A select number of white and red wines are $7. each and “happy beer” is just $5.

A recent wine tasting event brought some 40 wines to the show for customers to taste and Fleming promises more to come, as well as live music every Tuesday and Thursday from 6 to 9pm.  Cooking classes with wine are on the events menu as well as speed dating with Cloud 9.

It’s been a long road for Rene Fleming from representing wine companies, operating cafes and wine education, to the RELM model of Relax, Enjoy, Laugh More. To that we can add a comfortable destination for great food, drinks and a community spirit of giving. RELM has a “random acts of kindness” program that is unlike anything I’ve seen where giving back to community is just as important as financial success.  Get the full story on RELM and purchase event tickets by visiting www.thewinerelm.com.

Wine Bytes
Vittorio’s Restaurant in Carmel Valley San Diego is having a Super Bowl Party Sun. Feb. 2 at 12 Noon and showing the game at 3:30pm. Happy Hour the entire day and half priced bottles of wine. 30% off on delivery and take out. Call 858-538-5884.

Twenty/20 in Carlsbad at the Sheraton Hotel is planning a J Vineyards Wine Pairing Dinner, Wed. Feb. 5 from 6pm, with a 5:30pm reception.  Cost is $70. pp. with a 4 course tasting menu and 5 wine pairings.  To RSVP call 760-827-2500.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has a Zinful Zinfandel wine tasting Fri. Feb. 7 from 6 to 8pm for $20. ea.  Call 760-479-2500.

A 90+ points Wine Dinner is happening at Capri Blu in Rancho Bernardo Wed. Feb. 5 at 6pm.  From Pinot Gris to Cabernet, enjoy the best with a 4 course dinner.  Cost $55.  Call 858-673-5100.

Is San Diego Wine County Moving Up the Vine?

by Frank Mangio
San Diego County’s wineries recently were dong the Bacchus boogie and toasting a state court when it sided with a county ordinance that is bringing in a lot more boutique wineries to the back country.  It made permanent a lower court ruling of a winery initiative reducing costly regulations and allowing public tasting rooms through a tiered permit system tied to the size of the operation.

According to SD Metro, the on-line business news source, the Ramona Valley now boasts 20 wine tasting rooms recently, compared to one when the ordinance was approved a few years ago.

County Supervisor Dianne Jacob, the spearhead of this movement is leading efforts to craft a similar ordinance for microbreweries, cheese operations and other agri-based ventures in rural areas.

Peter Clarke, founder and owner of Altipiano Vineyard, off Highland Valley Rd. west of Ramona, pours columnist Frank Mangio a glass of his Cabernet Franc.

One winery that looked forward to the new, more favorable climate for winemakers is Altipiano with long-time San Diegans Peter and Denise Clarke. She came out of the Air Force and he came out of the world of law.  Their vineyard is now in its 5th year with 12 tons of grapes now being picked.  They now have built a tasting and barrel room. Varietals include Cabernet Franc ( $38.), Zinfandel ( $35.), Cabernet Sauvignon ($30.), Merlot ( $28.), and Chardonnay ( $19,).  A Super Tuscan blend is coming as work commences on a Sangiovese and a Barbera grape.  Both are Italian favorites.

Just beyond Ramona, the sophisticated Milagro Farm has 10,000 vines with 11 estate varietals, making it the largest in the Ramona AVA.  Their newly released 2012 Sauvignon Blanc was awarded “Best of San Diego County” and a Double Gold Medal at the California-wide San Diego County Fair Wine Competition.  The winemaker is Jim Hart, a 2nd generation winemaker whose family owns Hart Winery of Temecula.

Last year’s county Avocado crop was way down due mainly to water costs.  Some farmers who are now in that business, are planning to switch to wine grapes and expect to save thousands in water bills and attract visitors, thanks to the easier rules regarding tasting rooms.  Stay tuned, lots more wineries to come in San Diego County.

“I Love This Business!” – Joey Alfano, New Owner of Tuscany.
After some 12 years of managing other restaurants in North San Diego County, Joey Alfano finally gets to be captain of the ship with his purchase recently of Tuscany, the popular Italian Restaurant and Lounge in La Costa.

Tuscany owner Joey Alfano, Executive Chef Robert Gaffney and Howie Ovedia, celebrity bartender.

 “I love this business,” Alfano said.  “If you don’t like people, you don’t belong in a restaurant.  Tuscany has a great base of customers; after 25 years it needs to get to the next level.  We have plans to improve the wine and food menu and introduce a supper-club atmosphere, along with a new patio dining feature.  We’ll have concerts once a month and live lounge music every night.  I brought in Robert Gaffney from La Costa Resort as Tuscany’s Executive Chef and we are already making improvements in the menu.”

Howie Ovedia has been the talented “flair” bartender at Tuscany for 20 years. Regulars all know him for his great smile and his shows with flair bottle acrobatics, and he mixes a great drink. “Cosmopolitans and Martinis are still in demand these days,” he declared.  “With red wines, everyone loves blends.  Our house Bordeaux is the most requested.”

My favorite Italian wine with the “Branzino” fish dinner was the Symposio Principi Di Butera 2010 from Sicily ( $45.).  It was a Bordeaux Blend and paired beautifully with the dinner.  Visit www.tuscanylacosta.com for more.

Wine Bytes
Encinitas Wine Merchants will be pouring Champagne Thurs. Aug. 22 from 5:30 to 8pm.  Winners include:  Ruinart, Cliquot Rose, and the 2004 vintage of Moet & Chandon Brut, plus truffle popcorn.  $38, pp.  Details at 760-407-4265.

Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula presents Garratt Wilkin and the Parrotheads Jimmy Buffett Tribute Band, Fri. Aug. 23 starting at 7pm.  Public price is $35. ea.  Wine club $25.  Call 951-699-9463 for more.

San Diego State University has its next round of wine classes starting Mon. Aug. 26 from 6 to 9pm, with Exploring Wine.  Call 619-265-7378 for full information.

Vittorio’s at Del Sur in San Diego has its next wine dinner Thurs. Aug. 29 at 6pm, with wine pairing from King Estate in Oregon.  $49.50 cost.  Call for an RSVP at 858-538-5884.

NOTE: WE really appreciate and value your comments! Please let us know how you like our report, and how we can make it better. Thanks! Mike Bragg / Frank Mangio  Taste of Wine