Tutti Italiani: All-Italian Wines at the Masters

by Frank Mangio

Italian wines have had a checkered life here in the U.S. For a time, led by Chianti with its Sangiovese, the grape of origin in Tuscany, it seemed it was on every table either California grown and bottled, or brought over by an army of Italian makers, who sensed they could fill the jugs with anything that seemed palatable to American taste. The 60’s saw an “enough is enough” disgust with what passed as Chianti and Italy was shocked into action, as prices and demand plummeted.

A wine revolution occurred in Italy to reverse this trend and the government, along with key winemakers, set up strong standards to identify excellence. Wineries were told to abide by these standards for bottling their wines or “die on the vine.”

Today, Italian wine exports have reached a record 4.4 billion Euros last year, up 12%, with the U.S. the biggest customer. Italy is now winding up its the largest Expo, Vin Italy in Verona where more than 4,200 winemakers displayed their wines.

Catherine Fallis, Master Wine Sommelier and MC of the recent San Francisco Masters Italian Wine Expo, with the Mayor of Montepulciano Andrea Rossi.

Simultaneously, Wine Spectator, the largest wine trade publication in the world, printed 6 full page color ads mostly from Italian marketing associations promoting wine growing areas like Montepulciano. They brought their mayor, Andrea Rossi to the recent San Franciso Italian Wine Masters two day exhibition and conference.

Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis praised the quality of wines coming out of the Tuscany and Siena districts especially Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. At the grand tasting seminar conducted by Tim Gaiser, Education Chair for the Court of Master Sommeliers, a select group of wines were tasted from Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Prosecco Superiore.

In my last trip to Italy last Fall, Montepulciano was a quick view on a hill as I made my way to nearby Siena as planned. Not so next time. This small medieval city is a natural movie set with its surrounding wall, dramatic overlook of the Tuscan countryside and wineries that are beautifully crafted in the city and on the outskirts.

Vino Nobile means the wine of popes and nobility. Its grape is the Sangiovese clone Prugnolo Gentile. “It is the gentle clone of Sangiovese, with more aging,” I was told by Andrea Contucci of Contucci Winery, located in the center of Montepulciano. “It is made with the highest standard in Italy, DOCG, no less than 70% Sangiovese. My wine is very traditional, it goes back to the 11th Century.”

At the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano reception in San Francisco recently, Contucci wine distributor Matt Pye greets guests while Andrea Contucci promotes his wines.

2008 is the newest vintage of his Vino Nobile, although the 2006 Reserva ( $30.) was a silky, refined masterpiece of Italian wine culture. It was aged for a minimum 36 months, then 10 months in bottle before release. A 2007 Riserva is just now released. ( $27.). Cartucci also revealed that “the 2011 harvest was a long Summer with rich grapes but low production. Picking was finished in early October just before the strong, destructive rains hit us.”

To learn more about these wines, visit www.kiwidistributing.com. Discover Montepulciano at www.consorziovinonobile.it.

Taste of Wine Seen in Great Taste Magazine

I am happy to report that TASTE OF WINE can now be seen in the leading restaurant magazine’s Internet network, Great Taste of Orange County. It’s a very attractive publication for foodies, hospitality, catering and culinary professionals. Subscribers are up to 22,000. Take alook at www.great-taste.net.

Wine Bytes

Flemings La Jolla presents First Friday Wine Tastings, the next one on Fri. Apr. 6 from 5:30 to 7:30pm. This event features 20 wines from a major grape-growing area, this time Washington and Oregon. $25. per guest. RSVP at 858-535-0078.

San Diego Wine Company has a California Reds Tasting, Sat. Apr. 14 from 11 to 4:30pm. $10. ea. Call 858-586-WINE.

Twisted Vine Bistro & Wine Bar in San Diego is pouring the Wines of Veneto, Italy, Sat. Apr. 14 from 4 to 6pm. Includes 5 glasses of wines with “lite bites.” Call for RSVP and price at 858-780-2501.

Seasons 52 at South Coast Plaza, Orange County, hosts Merryvale Vineyards and Starmont Winery’s Casey Chandler of Napa Valley, Mon. Apr. 16 starting at 6:30PM. $100. pp, with a 6 course dinner included. RSVP contact 714-352-1701.

Tuscany in the Desert

by Frank Mangio
It was a sunny, temperate day in Palm Desert recently, adding a lively garden atmosphere to the driveway leading to the grand entrance of the JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort and Spa. I was there to renew my friendship with Paul Bologna, the wine sommelier for the restaurants, and to review the lush Italian style Tuscany Ristorante that sits by a lake within the property. Paul was guiding guests through a holiday wine tasting of California and Oregon Pinot Noirs at the boat dock.

His “Pinot Showdown” pitted Oregon names like Domaine Serene and Chehalem Reserve against California’s Sequana and MacPhail Toulouse. All were lovely picks, but I am partial to Pinot in Oregon so my favorite was the ’05 Chehalem from the Willamette Valley.

Tuscany’s menu, with its Northern Italian cuisine, is the creation of Executive Chef Oliver Wolf. He contributes to the relaxed, sophisticated atmosphere with a lovely selection of wines and fresh, seasonal flavors. The venerable Lobster Ravioli is chef’s favorite and has been on the Tuscany menu since its inception.

Tuscany Executive Chef Oliver Wolf, 2nd from the right, with his kitchen staff, prepares a menu of the finest flavors in the desert at the JW Marriott Desert Springs.

When you go, you must ask for Elena Sembenini for table service. She has been with the ristorante for 18 years. Her presentation is show business quality as she guides her diners through the history of each menu item. It is classic Italian. She personally selected my wine, Castel Ciocondo Frescobaldi 2004 Brunello di Montalcino. Its elegance cannot be overstated.

The wine list, a world tour of all that is superb, touches all budgets and is a credit to the selection decisions of Paul Bologna.

Life is beautiful when it’s spent dining at Tuscany Ristorante at JW Marriot’s Desert Springs. www.desertsprings.com.


What’s in your Cooler?
Keeping wine for years, to open and enjoy at another time, was the last thing I thought I would do when I began collecting my knowledge and thoughts about the qualities of great wine. After a while I began to realize that some red wines do get more magnificent with age.

They become like prized possessions, stored away developing flavors that would be unknown without years of aging.
Old world red wines, whether from the country of origin or a new world adopted country, do best when aged. These are big in tannins, those character-building components of the skins and seeds of grapes that make wine live longer.

My wine storage and coolers hold about 300 bottles of reds, the oldest being 10 years old. All will be consumed as I don’t believe in “collecting wine” just for the sake of name-dropping. Tuscany Italy and Napa Valley California are the wine countries I favor. Varietals I prefer to keep in storage for increased body and flavor include: Cabernet, Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Tempranillo, Barolo, Barbaresco, Syrah, many blends from France, Super Tuscans from Italy, Sonoma, Napa Valley, Paso Robles and Temecula.

My prize wine, until I drink it, is a Sassicaia Super Tuscan.

A couple of last thoughts on storing wine: Always keep the bottles laid down horizontally to keep the cork moist, and keep a record of what you have, when you bought it and exactly where it is stored. Salute!


Wine Bytes
San Antonio Winery in downtown Los Angeles has a wine seminar luncheon, Understanding Bordeaux Varietals, on Sat. March 20 from 1 to 4pm. Call 323-223-1401 for pricing and details.

The 9 DePortola Trail Wineries of Temecula are presenting a Zinfandel and Pasta Fest Sat. and Sun. March 20 and 21 from 11 to 5pm. Each winery has pasta, wine and a logo glass for guests. $45. fee. Tickets at the wineries or access www.deportolawinetrail.com.

West Steak, Seafood and Spirits in Carlsbad is hosting the Caymus Napa Valley Family of Wines Mon. March 22 at 6:30pm. Enjoy a five-course dinner featuring seared Prime Angus Filet Mignon paired with Caymus Wines. $95. ea. RSVP at 760-930-9100.

BICE Restaurant in the Gaslamp District downtown San Diego celebrates several winemakers from Italy with a 4 course dinner paired with Chianti Classico, Barbaresco, Barolo, Montepulciano and other Italian districts, Tues. March 23 from 7 to 10pm. $80. pp. RSVP at 619-239-2423.

The Napa Valley Vintners will be well representated at a wine tasting at Fleming’s Prime Steakhoue in La Jolla on Thurs. March 25 from 6 to 8:30pm. Enjoy small bites and big wines with winemakers. $45. ea. Contact Fleming’s at 858-535-0078.