The Napa - Verona Wine Connection

by Frank Mangio
When Estancia La Jolla Hotel and Spa owner Tim Busch recently introduced his Italian winemaking friend and partner Marchesi Armando Fumanelli at a recent gathering, wine history was being made.  For the first time in anyone’s memory, a California bottle of Amarone was available.  The Trinitas Napa Valley 2006 Amorone, also owned by Busch, made its debut at Estancia in a posh dinner featuring Fumanelli from Verona Italy, who has helped him develop this wine.

The evening was heightened when it was announced that this was going to be a “Parallel” tasting, the Old World versus the New World of Fumanelli and Trinitas wines for  each of the five course menus.

An alliance between the two men formed some 15 years ago, when Tim Busch sipped a glass of dark, full-bodied Amarone  in the ancient town of Verona, known more for Romeo and Juliet’s liaison. The wine’s unique character stayed with him until he had to make an American version to add to his Trinitas Family Collection of wines in 2011.  He set out to Italy and met Armando Fumanelli, whose family has been making wines since 1470.

Tim Busch of Trinitas Family Wines and Marchesi Armando Fumanelli of Fumanelli Wines.

 The two shared their wines, introduced their families and that led to the unveiling of the 2006 Amarone from Trinitas.  “Very few people know about Amarone,” explained Busch.  I want to offer a unique old world wine experience.” Fumanelli is the Valpolicello District’s largest landowner, northeast of Verona in the Lessini Mountains.  The primary grapes are Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella.  The wines are concentrated, flavorful and complex.

Busch also had a blockbuster resort alliance announcement to make that night. His lifestyle company, Meritage Collection, now has four esteemed properties linked together for “a complete resort experience,” asserted Busch.  They are: Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa, Balboa Bay Resort Newport Beach, Bacara Resort & Spa Santa Barbara and The Meritage Resort & Spa Napa Valley.  An immediate benefit for guests of any of these properties will be VIP access to the Fumanelli estate with stays at the vineyard for wine tasting and cooking classes.

Like others of its class, Estancia has been undergoing extensive upgrading of its rooms and its Mustangs and Burros restaurant and bar, under the watchful eye of General Manager Terry Buchholz.  Its Rancho style décor remains the dominant look at the 210 guest room hotel with a world class spa in place.

The Executive Chef at Estancia La Jolla is Kimberly Kramer preparing 

Southwest style plates motivated by the season.

Kimberly Kramer is always “searching for great flavor.” As Executive Chef at Estancia, Chef Kramer oversees the AAA Four-Diamond hotel’s kitchen.  She has steered the Mustangs and Burros restaurant into regional cuisine inspired by the season.  The special dinners, breakfast and lunch are at Adobe El Restaurante with fresh California fare. She has developed expertise in Asian and Latin influences.

“I’m passionate about seasonal foods, especially fresh seafood caught with sustainable practices,” she said. Most recently, she was at the Meritage Resort & Spa in Napa Valley, now one of the partner resorts for Estancia.

Her Sea Bass with mélange of mushroom, asparagus and roasted pepper was a delight to the senses.
Mustangs and Burros spotlights a Monday through Friday Happy Hour until 6pm, with discounted drinks and food.  Try the Trinitas family of wines led by the new Amarone 2006, and a knockout  2009 blend called “Mysterium” Mendocino Red. It’s Estancia’s family wine.  Learn more at www.estancialajolla.com


Wine Bytes
Dolce Pane E Vino in Rancho Santa Fe is donating a dollar for every glass of wine sold to benefit National Parkinson’s Disease Awareness month during April.  For details call 858-832-1518.

PAON in Carlsbad has a Joseph Jewell Wine event Wed. Apr. 17 from 5:30 to 8:30pm, with the owner/winemaker as special guest.  Sonoma based wines are featured.  Six wines with small bites for $28.  No RSVP needed.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos is featuring a “Blend Party” Wed. Apr. 17 from 5 to 9pm for $25.  Each customer will get carafes of Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc and Malbec, to create their own blends.  Fun contest with winner getting a $25. gift card.  Details at 760-744-2119.

The Big Red Fest is back with wineries on the DePortola Trail in Temecula, Sun. Apr. 21 from 10 to 5pm.  Taste three wines paired with gourmet food at each of the 10 wineries and receive a free logo glass.  Early price $45.,  $55. after Apr. 15.  For more information call 855-398-9463.

West Steak and Seafood in Carlsbad presents the Silver Oak/Twomey Wine Dinner with vineyards in Napa Valley and Sonoma, Tues. Apr. 23 at 6:30pm.  This will be the wine/food event of the season with marquee names and an elite menu.  $175. pp.  RSVP a must at 760-930-9100.

The Scenic Santa Lucia Highlands Make Breakout Pinots

by Frank Mangio
Pinot Noir wines have had their way ever since the movie Sideways glorified this lovely wine in all the wrong ways and in the wrong wine country.  This is a stately, royal wine, deserving of all the accolades it gets. It has “captured the imagination of many wine lovers,” according to James Laube, senior wine writer for Wine Spectator.

The blueprint for this amazing grape varietal is the vaunted Burgundy wine country of France.  There, as in other European countries, the wines are named after the district, not the grape, as it is in the U.S.
Pinot Noir must be farmed carefully under precise conditions of warm days, cool nights and just the right humidity powered by the coastal sites of Central and Northern California and Oregon.

If you have not discovered it yet, I want to reveal a little known but perfectly placed wine country for Pinot Noir, and that is the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation, west of Highway 101 in Monterey County. Here the elevation goes sharply up some 3,000 feet, producing about 6,000 acres under vine. Chardonnay is the largest grape varietal coming out of this area.

Dan Morgan Lee of Morgan Winery is  a premier grower in Santa Lucia Highlands.

In total, Monterey wine country has nine designated AVA wine districts  with 40,000 acres and 200 vineyards. Noting the cool breezes from Monterey Bay, missionaries made wine here in the 1790’s.  Now, Monterey with its 30,000 population, is the hub of activity with its scenic resorts, fine restaurants, Cannery Row and nearby Carmel Village.

Recently, members of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA paid a road show visit to San Diego where we could taste through their latest releases of world class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  Most were 2010 just brought to market.  After sipping through the 14 wineries, I settled in with Morgan Winery and its finely crafted Pinots and Chardonnays.

“We have 45 acres planted, 27 to Pinot Noir and 18 to Chardonnay in our Double L Vineyard, on the northern end of Santa Lucia,” declared Dan Morgan Lee, the owner.  He’s been planting there since 1996.  He went on to say “it captures the breezes from Monterey Bay, allowing the grapes to fully develop by lengthening the growing season and harvest.”

The cool weather-loving Pinots and Chards are perfectly accommodated.  Both are Burgundian flavored here than most anywhere else. The go-to Morgan favorite is the Double L Pinot Noir 2010. ($50.)  Morgan has a tasting room on the outskirts of Carmel where all wines can be tasted from 11 to 6pm daily.  Phone 831-626-3700.  Check out the web site at www.morganwinery.com.

Bernini’s is La Jolla’s Mediterranean Bistro
Picture a village in France, Italy or Spain with a small bistro offering indoor/outdoor seating  where diners gather to hear the talk of the day and to enjoy a snack or a meal over  a glass of wine.
On Fay Avenue La Jolla, this is Bernini’s  Bistro.  Bernini’s has been in this busy location for 13 years, growing into a thriving breakfast, lunch and dinner house, and a full bar with live music Thursday through Saturday nights.  All pastas are hand-made.  Before getting into that delicious entrée, try the Mediterranean Platter, with more garden-fresh vegetables than you can count.  Nightly dinner specials always make it a menu discovery.  For a value red wine with your meal, I would recommend the Hess Cuvee Block 19 Napa Valley. Call 858-454-5013.  Visit www.berninisbistro.com.

Carlos DeNarvaez manages Bernini’s Bistro, La  Jolla.

Wine Bytes
The DePortola Trail, Temecula Wine Country is having a Wine-Up Festival Sat. Oct. 20 from 10 to 6pm, at the Vail Lake Resort & Campground. A chef challenge, great wines, and live music will be featured.  $55. pp.  Call 855-398-9463.

San Diego Wine Company has a red blend wine tasting Sat. Oct. 20 from 11 to 4pm.  $10. cost.  Call 858-586-WINE.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas presents Napa Valley wines Sat. Oct. 20 from 3 to 6pm.  $50. ea. Call for an RSVP at 760-479-2500.

WineSellar and Brasserie in Sorrento Valley  has Rhone Valley wines in a tasting on Wed. Oct. 24 from 5 to 7pm.  Cost is $15.  Details at 858-450-9557.

Vigilucci’s on the Coast Highway in Carlsbad is celebrating its 10 year Anniversary with a special benefit dinner to help “Cancer Angels.”  Time is 6 to 9pm.  Your dinner choice includes a free glass  of champagne and petite tiramisu.  RSVP recommended at 760-434-2580.

Tuscany in the Desert

by Frank Mangio
It was a sunny, temperate day in Palm Desert recently, adding a lively garden atmosphere to the driveway leading to the grand entrance of the JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort and Spa. I was there to renew my friendship with Paul Bologna, the wine sommelier for the restaurants, and to review the lush Italian style Tuscany Ristorante that sits by a lake within the property. Paul was guiding guests through a holiday wine tasting of California and Oregon Pinot Noirs at the boat dock.

His “Pinot Showdown” pitted Oregon names like Domaine Serene and Chehalem Reserve against California’s Sequana and MacPhail Toulouse. All were lovely picks, but I am partial to Pinot in Oregon so my favorite was the ’05 Chehalem from the Willamette Valley.

Tuscany’s menu, with its Northern Italian cuisine, is the creation of Executive Chef Oliver Wolf. He contributes to the relaxed, sophisticated atmosphere with a lovely selection of wines and fresh, seasonal flavors. The venerable Lobster Ravioli is chef’s favorite and has been on the Tuscany menu since its inception.

Tuscany Executive Chef Oliver Wolf, 2nd from the right, with his kitchen staff, prepares a menu of the finest flavors in the desert at the JW Marriott Desert Springs.

When you go, you must ask for Elena Sembenini for table service. She has been with the ristorante for 18 years. Her presentation is show business quality as she guides her diners through the history of each menu item. It is classic Italian. She personally selected my wine, Castel Ciocondo Frescobaldi 2004 Brunello di Montalcino. Its elegance cannot be overstated.

The wine list, a world tour of all that is superb, touches all budgets and is a credit to the selection decisions of Paul Bologna.

Life is beautiful when it’s spent dining at Tuscany Ristorante at JW Marriot’s Desert Springs. www.desertsprings.com.


What’s in your Cooler?
Keeping wine for years, to open and enjoy at another time, was the last thing I thought I would do when I began collecting my knowledge and thoughts about the qualities of great wine. After a while I began to realize that some red wines do get more magnificent with age.

They become like prized possessions, stored away developing flavors that would be unknown without years of aging.
Old world red wines, whether from the country of origin or a new world adopted country, do best when aged. These are big in tannins, those character-building components of the skins and seeds of grapes that make wine live longer.

My wine storage and coolers hold about 300 bottles of reds, the oldest being 10 years old. All will be consumed as I don’t believe in “collecting wine” just for the sake of name-dropping. Tuscany Italy and Napa Valley California are the wine countries I favor. Varietals I prefer to keep in storage for increased body and flavor include: Cabernet, Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Tempranillo, Barolo, Barbaresco, Syrah, many blends from France, Super Tuscans from Italy, Sonoma, Napa Valley, Paso Robles and Temecula.

My prize wine, until I drink it, is a Sassicaia Super Tuscan.

A couple of last thoughts on storing wine: Always keep the bottles laid down horizontally to keep the cork moist, and keep a record of what you have, when you bought it and exactly where it is stored. Salute!


Wine Bytes
San Antonio Winery in downtown Los Angeles has a wine seminar luncheon, Understanding Bordeaux Varietals, on Sat. March 20 from 1 to 4pm. Call 323-223-1401 for pricing and details.

The 9 DePortola Trail Wineries of Temecula are presenting a Zinfandel and Pasta Fest Sat. and Sun. March 20 and 21 from 11 to 5pm. Each winery has pasta, wine and a logo glass for guests. $45. fee. Tickets at the wineries or access www.deportolawinetrail.com.

West Steak, Seafood and Spirits in Carlsbad is hosting the Caymus Napa Valley Family of Wines Mon. March 22 at 6:30pm. Enjoy a five-course dinner featuring seared Prime Angus Filet Mignon paired with Caymus Wines. $95. ea. RSVP at 760-930-9100.

BICE Restaurant in the Gaslamp District downtown San Diego celebrates several winemakers from Italy with a 4 course dinner paired with Chianti Classico, Barbaresco, Barolo, Montepulciano and other Italian districts, Tues. March 23 from 7 to 10pm. $80. pp. RSVP at 619-239-2423.

The Napa Valley Vintners will be well representated at a wine tasting at Fleming’s Prime Steakhoue in La Jolla on Thurs. March 25 from 6 to 8:30pm. Enjoy small bites and big wines with winemakers. $45. ea. Contact Fleming’s at 858-535-0078.