In Monterey Great Taste Comes with the Territory

by Frank Mangio

Romantic Monterey, a one-of-a-kind appellation, sweeps 90 miles down the coast from Cannery Row in the city, through Carmel by the Sea, Santa Cruz, Pebble Beach, the Carmel Valley, the rolling hills of Salinas Valley and the Santa Lucia Highlands.



There are nine officially designated appellations or AVA’s that have unique characteristics for remarkable flavor, found in bottles branded with the Monterey Wine Country signature. It had been many years since I walked on Monterey vineyard land. The occasion last month was the “Great Wine Escape,” an annual expo of some 50 of the 125 vineyards that dot the land. Over 30 tasting rooms were open daily, pouring their newest releases.

Monterey Bay and the Pacific Ocean, west of the highlands are the perfect formula for a long, leisurely ripening, with harvests that are some 60 days longer than most in California. Of the 41,000 acres of grapes produced, 17,000 are planted with Chardonnay, largest in the state. Next is Pinot Noir, some of the tastiest west of Burgundy. The area produces about 7,000 acres of Pinot and the winemakers are fiercely firm in their conviction that their Pinot is superior to any other on the west coast.

Major players who grow and bottle Pinot Noir include Hahn Estates in the Santa Lucia Highlands where the ’09 has just been released and they play the bagpipes at the harvest for good fortune. Talbott Winery’s Dan Karlsen is the expressive, self-described “former hippy” and a rabid believer in the excellence of Monterey Pinot Noir, calling it “the wine of kings.” He champions a “vineyard first” approach to winemaking “to obtain a vibrant cool climate appeal, that is all about flavor.” His ’08 Talbott Kali Hart has spicy blueberry and cherry notes with 9 months in French Oak.

Chalone is another Pinot Noir favorite of mine. Karlsen was their winemaker from 1998 to 2007, revitalizing their Pinot program. They have an AVA district named after the winery which sits east of the 101 and Soledad. Estancia is a well-known name that is situated in the Santa Lucia Highlands with a large property in Paso Robles. This property was formerly called Paul Masson in the early 60’s and like most behemoths, made just two kinds of wine: white and red. Estancia produces 850,000 cases with many supermarkets stocking this value wine. They now offer 12 varietals, from Sauvignon Blanc to a Reserve Meritage.

A Pinot Noir creating an emerging buzz is Fog Head and its ’08 release which blends grapes from several sites including the highlands of San Bernabe and Arroyo Seco. The maritime influence of seaside fog travels south through the valley and settles at Fog Head developing a slow maturation with concentrated flavors.

The name Galante goes back 6 generations. Jack Galante’s great grandfather was the founder of the town of Carmel. He later built the Pine Inn and Highlands Inn, still standing as iconic resorts. In 1969 Jack’s parents purchased a 700 acre cattle ranch in the nearby Carmel Valley.


Jack and Dawn Galante run Galante Carmel Tasting Room, and Galante Vineyards, with premium estate wines of 700 hillside acres in Carmel Valley.

Vineyards were planted in 1983,specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon. The Galante Vineyards and Winery came together as a cowboy themed winery in 1994, with premium estate wines. Today Jack and his wife Dawn operate 700 estate acres that range from 700 to 2,200 feet, making them one of the highest vineyards in Monterey County. The growing season is very long, grapes ripen slowly and the crop is thinned to two tons per acre for highest quality. No pesticides or herbicides are used. Cabernet is the traditional grape at Galante ( he makes 4 kinds), but his ’08 Olive Hill Petite Sirah is amazing in its accented texture and the ’07 Grand Champion with Malbec, Petite Sirah and Cabernet is rich and robust. And true to form, Jack can sell you a belt buckle with the same name.

Larger format bottles come with leather tooled labels and the wine club has “gang” members. Learn more about this blessed wine area by accessing the new web site at www.montereywines.org.

Wine Bytes

Holiday Wine Cellar is presenting The Grand Holiday Tasting Sat. Dec. 18 from 3 to 6pm. More than 100 wines are presented. $30. pp. RSPV at 760-745-1200.

Have a Newport Christmas with wines and a view of their boat parade at Wine Lab Sat. and Sun. Dec. 18 and 19 from 6:30 to 9:30pm, on Newport Harbor Orange County. 5 wines and lots of appetizers and artisan cheeses. $50. ea. Call 949-575-8466.

Juicy News from Temecula Wine Country

by Frank Mangio
Activity is ratcheting up in Temecula Wine Country. New releases from several wineries have come back with gold and silver at important competitive events, a newly opened winery is a stately, beautiful Tuscan style villa on a hill, Old Town Temecula is adding to its lineup of wine shops and weddings are being booked in the vineyards.

Jim Carter’s South Coast Winery Resort and Spa has hit it big with its 2008 Wild Horse Peak Mountain Vineyard Sangiovese. At the recent New World International Wine Competition, this flavor champion took Best of Varietal, Best of Class and Double Gold.

Taste of Wine colunmnist Frank Mangio with South Coast owner Jim Carter

The winery reports that over its six year history, it has received over 1,000 awards and medals from regional and international competition.

Callaway Winery is off to a good start this year with gold for its 2008 Muscat Canelli. At Briar Rose Winery, the 2004 Petite Verdot won the Chairman’s Award at the Riverside International Wine Competition late last year and its 2004 Cabernet was judged Gold Best of Class.

An impressive new winery is Monte De Oro Winery and Vineyard with its old world architecture, 100% estate wines and underground barrel room that holds 900 plus barrels in its 9,000 square feet. It’s viewed from the tasting room through a 16’ by 16’ glass floor which is the barrel room’s ceiling. My initial tastings revealed a lovely 2007 Viognier and a 2006 Syrah that I felt were the best on the list.

In Old Town Temecula, Tesoro Winery’s Tasting Room is causing a buzz with its Artist Series Food, Wine and Fine Art. Their wines trend toward big reds like Cabernet, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah and Tribordo Port. The owners will be operating from a future vineyard location in wine country in the near future.

Free jazz starts up at Falkner Winery Sunday April 11 and every Sunday through the season. Performances will be 3 hours beginning at noon and going until 3pm. Chairs and tables are provided.

The big name concerts are again planned for Thornton, Wiens and South Coast and we’ll be doing a later column alerting you to the lineup which is among the best in Southern California.

Finally, if marriage is in your near future, you can’t do better than a wedding in the vines. Orfila Winery in Escondido has a lovely intimate setting and some attractive early-season discounts. In Temecula, look to: Wilson Creek for Tuscan inspired gardens, an events center and a dramatic open air gazebo.

At Ponte Winery, current specials include big discounts on small weddings, including Saturdays. A wedding here before April 30 receives a case of wine at the time of booking. Falkner Winery is on a hill with a beautiful view of the valley. Special custom-designed themes to personalize the event include hot air balloon rides for a unique experience to “Here Comes the Bride.” South Coast Winery Resort and Spa can offer custom labeled wines and spa packages for the wedding party. Bridal shower, bachelor parties and rehearsal dinners are arranged.
Wedding events at wineries are available in Temecula Wine Country. Ponte Winery is shown in the photo.

For wedding night and honeymoon stays, South Coast has many villas in the vines for an elegant stay. Thornton Winery offers the romantic Champagne Caves or a fountain terrace overlooking the vineyards. Experienced event specialists achieve perfection in every detail including wine and food pairings. Wiens Family Cellars offer a fully enclosed event pavilion, outdoor patio or intimate barrel room. Early season offers are available. Enjoy one of the happiest days in anyone’s life, with a memorable wedding in the vineyards.

Wine Bytes
Pack your bags and travel to Verona Italy for the world’s biggest wine tasting, Vinitaly Wine and Spirits Exhibition. Taste and enjoy high quality wine and other beverages from over 4,000 exhibitors. For details phone 39-45-8298111.

The Pebble Beach Food and Wine Festival Thurs. Apr. 8 to Sun. Apr. 11 brings together 60 celebrity chefs and 250 wineries. Grand Tasting is Sat. April 10. Go to www.pebblebeachfoodandwine.com for details.

Carlsbad Wine Merchants has started up live music and wine tastings with appetizers every Fri. from 6:30 to 9:30pm. Call 760-804-9994.

A Fruity and Floral Wine Tasting is offered at Morgan Run Resort in Rancho Santa Fe, Wed. Apr. 7 from 5:30 to 7pm. Whites and reds will be poured. $30. cost. Call 619-955-8884.